RoadRUNNER Magazine July/August 2015 Preview
RoadRUNNER 75 Years of STURGIS • FREE Tankbag Maps Inside www.roadrunner.travel AUG ’15 2015 DUCATI MULTISTRADA 1200 2015 APRILIA CAPONORD RALLY 2015 YAMAHA YZF-R3 SWITZERLAND SWITCHBACK SENSATION State College, PA Shamrock Tour® CARVINGTHROUGH HISTORY... More
RoadRUNNER 75 Years of STURGIS • FREE Tankbag Maps Inside www.roadrunner.travel AUG ’15 2015 DUCATI MULTISTRADA 1200 2015 APRILIA CAPONORD RALLY 2015 YAMAHA YZF-R3 SWITZERLAND SWITCHBACK SENSATION State College, PA Shamrock Tour® CARVINGTHROUGH HISTORY ICONIC ROUTE 66The Mother Road
©2015 H-D or its affiliates. HARLEY-DAVIDSON, HARLEY, and the Bar & Shield Logo are among the trademarks of H-D U.S.A., LLC. UNITED BY INDEPENDENTS It’s lIke rIdIng low rollIng thunder. The all-new Ultra Limited® Low. Pure H-D® rumble rolling just 25.6 inches off the ground. H-D.com/RUSHMORE
LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER JULY/AUGUST ‘15 3 In this issue we feature many great riding areas and destinations, but one in particular stands out: the iconic Route 66. Paved with hopes and dreams, this road has driven drama throughout its history. My personal experience with the mother road tells a tale of its own. When my husband Christian and I were still living in Austria, he read an article in a German motorcycle magazine that featured a tour of Route 66 from Chicago to Los Angeles, about 2,400 miles across the country, from east to west. We were so intrigued by the report and the photos that we started making plans to follow this route. We shipped our bikes from Austria to Chicago and began a three-week adventure that would prove to be life changing. Bear in mind that our journey took place long before GPS was an everyday accessory. Sometimes we had difficulty just following the route, as signs were nonexistant and roads sometimes dropped into open fields. Yet despite these challenges we traveled the entire distance, and in doing so, gathered a good impression of this country and its people. Route 66 was our second extended road trip in America,having previously traveled Pacific Highway 1 from Los Angeles to Vancouver, BC, a couple of years earlier. After our Route 66 trip, we began toying with the idea of moving to the U.S. and shared the possiblity of relocation with our two teenage sons upon returning home. Their excitement matched our own, so in 1999 we ventured across the Big Pond to this beloved continent, making our home on the East Coast. Our road trip along Route 66 was the impetus for this monumental change, which of course, ultimately resulted in RoadRUNNER. In addition to the iconic Route 66 (page 30), more great adventures await you in this issue. Joseph Trey gets a riding buddy (Luke Swab) for the western part of his Trans-America Trail, delivering experiences he had not planned for (page 102). History buff James Parks and his friends stay on-road, exploring the area around State College, PA (page 56). Plus, if you’ve ever wondered what cherry trees, 11 lighthouses, and a fish boil have in common, check out David Burbach’s tour story discovering Door Life is an Adventure! Dear Reader, County, WI (page 36). In our international section, the stunning photography of a lakeside luxury tour in the Swiss Alps accompanies Uwe Krauss’ captivating piece (page 82). And in the spirit of always learning, Manuel Neuhauser brushes up on his skills with a track day at Yamaha Champions Riding School in Millville, NJ. One last thing before browsing this issue—have you ever had to choose between riding your motorcycle and participating in another hobby? Of course riding motorcycles always comes first, but what if you could combine it with your next favorite pastime like fishing, golfing, or kayaking? Well, no need to compromise any longer; find our feature article on page 112. We had a great time and lots of laughs brainstorming and pulling it together. See for yourself—I don’t want to spoil it all. Ride Safe, Christa Neuhauser Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL4 InsideJuly/August 15 Volume 15, Number 4 Photography: Honda Motorcycle: 2013 Honda Gold Wing F6B City Escapes 24 Jacksonville, Florida 26 Santa Clarita, California 28 Austin, Texas International Destinations 82 Switzerland Lakeside Luxury 36 Wisconsin A Finger in the Lake 56 Shamrock Tour®: Four One-Day Loops State College, Pennsylvania as Base Roads Less Traveled 102 Trans-America Trail: Southern Colorado to Oregon Detours, Broken Bones, and New Friendships 122 Reader Ride: Utah Highway 12 It’s the Journey and the Destination Iconic Roads 30 Route 66 East: America’s Main Street 32 Route 66 West: Riding the Mother Road 102 82 36 Tours National Destinations
JULY/AUGUST ‘15 5 Riding Impressions 50 2015 Ducati Multistrada 1200 DVT / DVT S Adjusting With the Times 72 2015 Aprilia Caponord Rally Finding the Right Mix 96 2015 Yamaha YZF-R3 The Little Engine That Can Chronicles 20 Sturgis Rally Quintessentially American 48 Road Rash The Thangs Yew Larn 68 MotoMojo Changing Seat Height 78 Yamaha Champions Riding School Taking it to the Track 94 A Motorcyclist’s Guide to the Galaxy Designing Your Own Route 112 Combining Riding With Hobbies Motorcycle-Sized Fun 118 Interview: Dana Brown A Passion for Movie Making and Motorcycles 126 Zen Motorcyclist Four Legs, Two Wheels, and a Grateful Heart 128 The Billy Joel Collection The Piano Man’s Toy Box Editorial 3 Letter from the Publisher 10 MotoMarket 12 Scene 130 Products Extras 6 Reader Response 138 MotoViews 139 Subscription Cards 140 Tankbag Maps 56 122 96
A few years ago I decided to limit my motorcycle mag subscriptions to two. Letting RoadRUNNER go was a BAD idea. Last year, Motorcycle Cruiser had an ownership change and they destroyed a great magazine. The font size was reduced to the size of “fine print,”the ink was lighter, and there were all kinds of print inside of pictures. My eyes finally told me NO MORE. That’s when I decided to come back to RoadRUNNER. What a joy! You are a mag that cares more about its readers than cutting corners. It’s easy to read, the photos are first class, and one definitely gets the best value with your magazine. Unfortunately, sometimes one has to be away from something good to appreciate what they had. That has certainly been my experience. Merton Rosenberg | University Place, WA I have been a subscriber for many years and enjoyed every issue. I believe that there is always one point that is missing in the motorcycle review and that is the cost of maintenance. As a prospective buyer of a motorcycle, I am always concerned about the financial cost of maintaining my motorcycle, and twice I was affected by that factor on my KTM 990S and BMW R1200 GS Adventure. In your future articles, I would appreciate having some cost information about the maintenance of the motorcycle you feature. I am sure all the readers will appreciate this information. Thank you. Jean-Marc Troillard | Weston, FL RR: It is near impossible to compare maintenance prices because different areas and dealers charge different labor rates, and I have even found that some dealers charge more than list price for parts. Christa Neuhauser, Publisher & Editor-in-Chief I just read the article on the 2015 KTM 1290 Super Adventure and, as someone who has a deposit on one (hasn’t been delivered to U.S. customers yet), I was very interested in some of your comments. At the end of the article you state that the cornering lights can be switched to “always on,” however, this is contrary to everything I’ve read. Can you confirm this? Also, in the last paragraph you state that the bike includes “three hard cases in the U.S.”Again, this is news to me and I’ve been talking to my dealer on a weekly basis for months now. Can you confirm this as well? Michael Holt | Hillsborough, NC RR: Yes, the cornering lights can be made to fully stay on at all times. It’s not a special model or feature. We did this while taking photos so that all the lights were on. It’s done through the on-board computer. In the U.S., the standard version will come with two side cases. The topcase is sold as an accessory. That was an error on my part. Sincerely, Florian Neuhauser, Managing Editor I was on Skyline Drive and used your routes from a touring article. It’s a fantastic service you provide just to load something that you know will be a good route and go. To your cover letter in the last issue: Take the time to see things. We sat outside the General Store in Pennsylvania Dutch country for a few hours and it was just plain magic. Great mag and don’t change a thing (good to see the magazine is getting larger, though). Well done ... long time subscriber. Cyril Visovsky | Brooklyn, NY I’ve never tried to use any GPX files for my Garmin that I didn’t create myself, but the May/June ‘15 “Motorcyclist’s Guide to the Galaxy” article inspired me to give it a try. Tracy Sisco | Dimondale, MI April’s “Adventure Times Two” sounds like great fun. The three of you left the office on a cool morning in early April to do a Shamrock Tour® based in Snowshoe, WV. Arriving in Buckhannon, WV, Florian laments the fact that he missed the West Virginia Strawberry Festival by a week. Unless West Virginia celebrates their strawberry festival using Florida strawberries, it has to be a really bleak festival. You couldn’t find a strawberry in West Virginia in April unless you went to the supermarket, and maybe not even then. Sorry to hear about your involuntary donation to the state of Virginia; been there, done that, but I think I claimed it as a charitable donation. Keep up the great work. Jim Rich | Jupiter, FL I just saw your mag at the Iron Horse Rally in Benson, AZ. The May/June ’15 issue covers a bunch of Arizona and Red Rock country. Thank you for supporting the local rally. Jon Lauderbaugh | Benson, AZ I greatly enjoy and value the magazine and the new riding season isn’t too many months away. RoadRUNNER keeps me dreaming in the meantime! Gene M Della Torre | West Chicago, IL The “Motorcyclist’s Guide to the Galaxy” is an excellent series of articles! BaseCamp has been frustrating for sure! David Kent | Lewes, DE Your new free Tour of the Week series on www.roadrunner.travel is a great idea! Now I don’t have to go through all of my old issues to come up with a new ride. Thanks! Rob Trunz | Port Washington, NY The June issue’s MotoMojo on motorcycle oil was a good article. I put Mobil 1 10W30 in my FZ1. Big mistake. Oil leaked at the sprocket seal. Then, I put Rotella 5W40 in—leak gone. Oil makes a big difference! David Yawn | Concord, NC WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL6 Reader Response
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WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL10 MOTOMARKET Mondo Enduro DVD Around the world motorcycle trips are becoming a dime a dozen, but back in the mid90s the world was a different place.Before cell phones,GPS,and Internet travel info,seven friends set out to tackle what they called the longest possible route around the world on Suzuki DR350s. Their adventures, chronicled in the documentary Mondo Enduro, span 440 days and 40,000 miles from Europe, across Asia (including Russia), through North and South America, and up through Africa and the Middle East. Since its debut on the Discovery Channel followed by many subsequent showings, Mondo Enduro has become a motorcycle adventure classic. Price: £18.00 (~$27.33). www.mondoenduro.com Safety Drain Most riders know that the best way to store a bike for a season or longer is to completely drain the fuel system. This is especially true of carbureted engines running gasoline with ethanol. The Safety Drain installs directly in the bike’s fuel line and provides a leak free way to completely drain a motorcycle’s fuel system. The fittings are made of either chrome or stainless steel, and the system features an internal valve that shuts whenever it’s disconnected to prevent spills. The Chrome Safety Drain retails for $59.95 while stainless steel goes for $119. www.drainnstore.com Green Chile Adventure Gear Side Bag Hauler Kit Often soft dry bags are the best luggage solution for adventure riders as this bag type doesn’t get easily banged up in a crash and still keeps belongings safe and dry. But securing dry bags to a bike requires some good straps—such as those in the Side Bag Hauler Kit from Green Chile Adventure Gear. The kit includes four heavy-duty cam-buckle tension loops and four, four-foot runner loops. That’s enough to attach two bags securely to a motorcycle. The kits are available in six different colors; $72.62. www.greenchileadv.com Bull-it Jeans Men’s Cargo SR6 There are a wide variety of motorcycle jeans on the market today, but one of the most interesting comes from across the pond in the U.K. Bull-it Jeans use a material called Covec to provide protection against both abrasion and burns (caused by heat from friction with the road). The Men’s SR6 Cargo Jeans are CE approved and offer six seconds of protection against sliding across asphalt as well as pockets for armor in the knees and hips. The jeans have a water resistant coating, are moisture wicking, and breathable. Sizes range from 30-54 (waist). www.bull-it.com Gorilla 9 Series Compact Cycle Alarm For many riders their bike is their prize possession. Protecting it is a very high priority. The 9 Series Compact CycleAlarm from Gorilla is a simple and effective way of deterring thieves while keeping tabs on a rider’s pride and joy. The alarm is small and connects directly to the bike’s battery. It features a tilt sensor, two-stage shock sensor (with seven levels of sensitivity), and a battery current sensor, any of which can trigger the alarm’s120dBsiren.Twodifferent kits are available. Online prices range from $120$215 depending on model. www.gorillacyclealarm.com
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SCENE WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL12 In the wake of Harley-Davidson’s shuttering of the original Buell Motorcycle brand, Erik Buell founded Erik Buell Racing in 2009. Unfortunately, it seems that Buell’s second company has suffered a similar fate. Despite a large cash injection from India’s Hero Motocorp, EBR announced entrance into receivership in April. The company will now seek bids from potential buyers interested in purchasing it. If no bids are received, the company’s assets will be auctioned off to pay its creditors. EBR seemed to be on the right track with the release of the 1190RX sportbike and 1190SX naked version, both of which offer high performance at a relatively competitive price point. In a statement to the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel, Buell said, “The turn we recently took, after we thought we were moving forward, was unexpected. We thought we had secured funding, but in the end, we were not able to get the funding in place. Therefore, we need to do the best we can under the circumstances for all parties in interest. To say this setback is a disappointment does not begin to express what I feel right now. I am personally grateful for the support of our outstanding workers, customers, and vendors. While this is a sad ending, I personally hope for a new and better beginning.” Erik Buell Racing Shuts Down For nearly 75 years the United Service Organizations (USO) has been lifting the spirits of American military men and women as they serve. This year, Indian Motorcycle is partnering with the USO with a donation of $100,000. The congressionally-chartered nonprofit will also become the official charitable organization for the Indian Motorcycle Riders Group (IMRG). In speaking about the partnership, Steve Menneto, Vice President of Motorcycles for Indian’s parent company, Polaris, said, “Indian Motorcycle has a proud track record of supporting U.S. troops dating back to WWI and WWII. Today two great American organizations with a passion for supporting our troops come together to continue that heritage. Our yearlong partnership is a celebration of those who currently serve and those who have served our country. We look forward to engaging our dealers, Indian Motorcycle Riders Group, and celebrity partners of the brand in our work with the USO.” Indian Motorcycle Partners With the USO Dream Racer Film The Dakar Rally is well known to motorcyclists as perhaps the toughest and most grueling race on the planet. In the rally’s 35-year history, 48 racers have paid the ultimate price in competition. The independently-released film, Dream Racer, chronicles 39-year-old former motocross rider Christophe Barriere-Varju’s journey from business consultant to Dakar racer. The film explores his motivation, training, fundraising, and ultimately, his experience challenging the Dakar. The film’s director, Simon Lee, tackles Christophe’s compelling story from an intimate and personal perspective. Watch a preview or purchase the DVD ($24.95). www.dreamracer.tv Killington Classic Hosted by the same folks who put on the Americade Rally in early June, the fun moves to Killington, VT, for the Killington Classic August 27-30, 2015. Motorcyclists will find plenty to do in and around the small Vermont town. The area offers fantastic motorcycling roads as well as miles of stunning New England scenery. A number of guided and unguided tours will be available to introduce riders to the area’s best riding. The rally itself will include live music, a vendor village, motorcycle shows, demo rides, food, and more. www.killingtonclassic.com TOUR EXPO / AMERICADE KILINGTON CLASSIC LOGO 61346 • • MARK5.25.11 PG.4 M O T O R C Y C L E R A L L Y
SCENE WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL14 MIC Gear Up Every Ride Campaign The Motorcycle Industry Council (MIC) is aiming to steer motorcycle culture in a safer direction with what they’re calling the Gear Up Every Ride campaign. The month of May is Motorcycle Safety Awareness Month, so the MIC saw fit to launch the Gear Up movement on May 1, 2015. The purpose of the campaign is to encourage both new and veteran riders to wear motorcycle boots, jacket, pants, gloves, and a DOT approved helmet every time they get on the bike. The hope is to reach segments of motorcyclists that have traditionally ignored efforts at increasing rider safety by not only touting the protective benefits of motorcycle gear but the comfort aspect as well. The MIC established a Rider Safety Committee in 2014—the Gear Up Every Ride campaign is one of the resulting efforts. The campaign asks riders to post photos on social media sites like Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter using the hashtag #GearUpEveryRide. The MIC will award prizes for the best photos to further encourage rider participation. The MIC’s VP of Aftermarket Programs, Cam Arnold, says, “We don’t want to scare people, but we want to be fact based.We want to put what’s real on our website about wearing a helmet versus not wearing a helmet. And on the other side we want to be inspirational,too,and we hope they’ll see there’s a cool factor to it.” www.gearupeveryride.org Over the last few months it seems like there’s been one major motorcycle recall after another. Here’s a quick rundown of the latest recalls: Yamaha An incorrectly manufactured shift cam in several 2015 model year Yamahas may cause the part to break, resulting in the rider’s inability to properly shift gears. Around 4,900 bikes may be impacted including the 2015 FJ-09, FZ-09, FZ6R, Super Ténéré, Super Ténéré ES, and R6. Yamaha will replace the shift shaft assembly on affected units. Öhlins The highly-revered suspension manufacturer is recalling aftermarket TTX36 shock absorbers. An improperly torqued pistonshaft nut could come loose, resulting in a loss of damping and possibly causing the shock to fall apart. The affected TTX36 shock models include the TTX GP, TTX RT, and TTX36 MKII. Öhlins recommends that owners cease riding immediately. Contact Öhlins at (800) 336-9029 to inquire about defective units and next steps. Ducati Nearly 6,000 model year 2010 to 2014 Ducati Multistradas are being recalled because the inner sleeve of the opening throttle cable may stick, preventing the rider from being able to fully close the throttle. Ducati will contact owners and replace the defective parts free of charge. BMW A large recall potentially affecting around 46,000 motorcycles in the U.S. and including 16 different BMW models, stems from the rear wheel-mounting flange, which may crack if the bolts that secure it are over tightened. BMW will replace the original aluminum flange with a steel one. The recall includes a variety of BMW motorcycles model years 2005 through 2011. BMW will notify the owners of the recalled bikes. Indian Affecting only 800 or so 2015 Indian Scouts, this recall involves a faulty retaining ring in the bike’s rear master brake cylinder. This could cause a loss of the rear brake. Indian will advise owners and replace the rear master cylinder for free. Harley-Davidson This large recall was caused by the clutch master cylinder in nearly 46,000 Harley-Davidson model year 2014 and 2015 touring bikes and baggers. In affected models, the master cylinder may not be able to fully disengage the clutch, potentially causing the bike to move unintentionally. Harley-Davidson is notifying owners and dealers and will flush and rebuild the master cylinder for free. Concerned owners can contact H-D at (800) 258-2464. Recall Roundup
SCENE WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL18 In RoadRUNNER’s October 2014 issue, Florian Neuhauser took readers on a breathtaking tour of South Africa. Now Blue Rim Tours is offering the chance to go and see the Rainbow Nation’s beauty in person. Blue Rim Tours’ South Africa and Lesotho tour will run January 28 through February 14, 2016. The trip will begin in Johannesburg and end in Cape Town. Along the way riders will enjoy miles of stunning African scenery including a stop at a Big Five nature reserve. The tour also surveys the tiny country of Lesotho, which is entirely contained within South Africa and is known as the “highest country in the world.” A variety of tour options are available including a pick of several different BMW models. The tour price includes all accommodations, most meals, fuel, and all park fees. www.bluerimtours.com Blue Rim Tours Returns to South Africa and Lesotho
IT’S IN THE DETAILS. You know every inch of your bike. Not just the engine size, or the color code of the paint. It’s the special details that only you know about. Like the way the exhaust opens up just right at 3,200rpm. Or that scuff on the footpeg you picked up while riding through Deal’s Gap. It’s the details that make your bike unique, and no one knows this more than GEICO. With GEICO Motorcycle insurance, you’ll get coverage specific to your bike, and a team of people who love motorcycles as much as you do. When it comes to insurance, it’s the little things that make a big difference. Trust the details to GEICO Motorcycle. Somediscounts,coverages,paymentplansandfeaturesarenotavailableinallstatesorallGEICOcompanies.MotorcyclecoverageisunderwrittenbyGEICOIndemnityCompany.GEICOisaregisteredservicemarkofGovernmentEmployees InsuranceCompany,Washington,D.C.20076;aBerkshireHathawayInc.subsidiary.©2015GEICO. Motorcycle geico.com | 1-800-442-9253 | Local Office
W hen one thinks of a“motorcycle rally,”I bet three places come to mind ... Sturgis, Daytona, and a personal favorite. At least two of the three epitomize the American dream of freedom. And this one in particular is in the west—South Dakota. The Black Hills Motorcycle Rally (aka Sturgis) shows hundreds of thousands of riders the time of their lives each year in the otherwise microscopic town of Sturgis, SD. Many may fear the place, but those with a little more bravery simply visit the week before the insanity begins and escape when it does. I’m a newbie to the history here, and I tend to find the scene pretty tame. It’s likened to a biker’s version of Las Vegas—a sin city ripe with every opportunity for fun with the addition of a few buffalo and some truly unique landscapes. The rally and the location lives up to its reputation. Last year, however, a media storm was chasing the rally thanks to Indian Motorcycle and the new Scout. Press junkets and headlines aside, the real“Sturgis”is about the people already on two wheels, not just those looking to upgrade or buy a new machine. The people define the rally and make it the carnival Text and Photography: Alfonse Palaima Quintessentially AMERICAN Sturgis Rally The annual Legends Ride begins in Deadwood, SD, and winds its way though the countryside as an escorted group all the way to the Buffalo Chip. Attendees are privy to celebrity meet and greets, live concerts, and beautiful scenery. WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL20 CHRONICLE
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that it has become ... people doing what they do when they’re running from reality for a while. Special events and charity rides happen throughout the week with the majority beginning in nearby Deadwood, SD, and ending at the Buffalo Chip Campground. Each offers a 50-mile counterclockwise ride through the countryside before concluding with a dinner and concert. Neighboring national parks and landmarks, like the Badlands and Mount Rushmore, offer more riding than a weekend can handle. A mere 10 miles from Main Street, Deadwood is the motorcycle gambling mecca of the grasslands. As the starting point of the annual Legends Ride, Biker Belles Ride, and a number of owners’club rides, this tiny bar-hopping town is coming into its own—almost ready to be its own rally with the amount of things to see and do. The charity-ride loop exits town on the south side toward Lead, SD, along easy sweeping scenery and delicious riding routes. Take routes 85 to 385, turn left on Nemo Road, and left again on Vanocker Canyon Road to loop back into Sturgis for another big adventure. If it’s a Main Street night, troll it once or twice and park it ... this place is more fun to watch! Spotting crazy motorcycles and crazier riders is one of the finest American pastimes. If one wants loud music, there’s lots of amplification in Sturgis. Live music is everywhere. For those seeking an epic concert experience, cruise across town to the Buffalo Chip venue. The Buffalo Chip, outgrowing its downtown Sturgis roots, is a campground on steroids. It’s grown into a nightly crowd in the thousands where both on-site campers and concertgoers unite to see the likes of Lynyrd Skynyrd, ZZ Top, Fleetwood Mac, and Sublime. Nowhere else can one ride his or her motorcycle right into the concert arena. Swap out applause for big-twin rev limiters peaking ... keep the earplugs handy! I feel most at home on the Chip’s ranch. With everything one needs on-site, if it were not for the roads and landmarks around me, I could easily park and party all weekend without ever worrying about a traffic infringement. For the riders that like to wander on foot, there’s no shortage of biker bars and makeshift neighborhoods filled with vendor rows and live music. One could ride a different spoke each day—north, south, east, and west—and still find more to travel next year. Big-wheeled tail-draggers are slowly replacing the long-forked choppers of the early 2000s. And last year riders brought some of the biggest ever to town. With front rim sizes taller than many inseams, they’re a sight to see. Check out one of the bike contests downtown. Bike shows to amateur boxing to the Wall of Death, there’s an abundance of activity in Sturgis. But we road warriors tend to get a little fidgety if we’ve been in one town for too long. Being so addicted and itching to ride, we took the 2015 Indian Roadmaster out for an overnighter to escape from all the escapism. The scenery and local roads are world class and are worth the effort to see. And that’s what makes this rally better than the rest. Don’t miss this year’s rally—the 75th anniversary edition is sure to be a special one! RR One surefire way to reach the ape hangers is to start five feet off the ground. Are we in Texas, Toto? Bigger is better in so many ways! WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL22 CHRONICLE
Overview The low-lying coastal region surrounding Florida’s largest city isn’t home to lots of curves that many motorcyclists crave. However, what a rider will find along this day ride from the city are lovely little seaside towns, southern swamps, and quiet rural communities to give one a much-needed break from city life. Best travel times are spring and fall; summers here are very hot and humid. Length Approximately 190 miles Meet-up Spot Starbucks, 2771 Monument Rd, Jacksonville, FL Lunch Stop An on-site garden produces some of the fresh ingredients used in 29 South Bistro’s world cuisine cooking. Housed in a historic home, find it at 29 S 3rd St, CITY ESCAPE Jacksonville, Florida Text and Photography: David Burbach Jacksonville Callahan Hilliard Yulee Fernandina Beach St Marys Bryceville Folkston Homeland Kingsland Northside Arlington Atlantic Beach Jacksonville Beach Blount Island Black Hammock Island Amelia Island 108 10 121 17 2 113 17 295 25 116 90 95 15 110 23 95 15 A1A 1 1 1 90 90 90 301 301 1 17 17 A1A A1A A1A 2 295 295 2 2 115 115 2 95 95 40 1 301 301 1 40 40 121A115A Monument Rd Amelia Island Pkway Buccaneer Trail Mill Cove StJohnsRiver St Johns River StJohnsRiver St Marys River StMarysRiver Atlantic Ocean G E O R G I A F L O R I D A 1 2 3 Approx. 2 mi Route Dir. US Roads Roundtrip State/Co Roads Interstate Border Points of Interest Lunch Start 1 GPS files and maps are available for free download at www.roadrunner.travel/cityescapes. Fernandina Beach, FL, (904) 277-7919, www.29southrestaurant.com. Scenery Along the coast, the Atlantic Ocean mostly stays hidden behind swanky beachfront houses, but there are several places where riders can take in the views. Inland, big southern oaks draped in Spanish moss and old south farmlands are kind to the eyes. Traffic Once out of Jacksonville and away from the coast, traffic all but disappears except in the few small towns. Difficulty The coastal plain offers limited curves and elevation changes, making this a relaxing and calm ride. Road Conditions Conditions vary from excellent to in need of repair. There are plenty of unpaved side roads that would be a blast on a dual sport. Points of Interest 1. Folkston Funnel, Folkston, GA Almost all Florida bound train traffic flows through the small town of Folkston, which has built a viewing platform where train enthusiasts can view the passing trains; www.folkston.com. 2. Amelia Island Museum of History, Fernandina Beach, FL Exhibits on local history and a continuing tradition of storytelling make this a great educational stop; www.ameliamuseum.org. 3. Amelia Island State Park, Jacksonville, FL On the southern tip of Amelia Island riders will find beautiful beaches, salt marshes, and coastal forests; www.floridastateparks.org/park/amelia-island. TOURS WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL24
©2014 Bombardier Recreational Products Inc. (BRP). All rights reserved. ®, ™ and the BRP logo are trademarks of BRP or its affiliates. In the U.S.A., products are distributed by BRP US Inc. Some models depicted may include optional equipment. Always ride responsibly and safely. Always observe applicable local laws and regulations. Don’t drink and drive. riding has evolved. Experience the soul-stirring exhilaration of the all-new Spyder F3. With a cruising riding position, high-torque Rotax® 1330 ACE™ engine, personalized fit, and signature Y-Frame design, you’ll ride with a feeling of complete freedom and confidence. The evolution of riding is here. Visit CanAmSpyder.com to register for a test ride today. IF YOU THINK IT LOOKS GREAT ON PAPER, WAIT UNTIL YOU SEE IT IN ACTION. VISIT YOUR LOCAL CAN-AM® SPYDER® DEALER FOR A TEST RIDE TODAY.
Overview Santa Clarita lies just north of Los Angeles along the West Coast’s main north-south corridor, Interstate 5, so it’s easy to get to from many surrounding areas. Just north of town is Six Flags Magic Mountain amusement park, with fantastic roller coasters, and Castaic Lake, which offers aquatic fun. These could be visited before or after riding this loop to make it an entertaining long weekend! Length Approximately 73 miles, alternate route 65 miles Meet-up Spot McDonald’s (at Walmart), 25450 The Old Road, Santa Clarita, CA, (661) 259-6369. Lunch Stop Rock Inn, 17539 Lake Elizabeth Rd, Lake Hughes, CA, (661) 724-1855. This is nestled in a historic stone building and is a popular hangout for motorcyclists with good food, friendly servers, and live music on most evenings. Scenery Scenery changes from desert terrain to mountainous and wooded sections with quaint towns interspersed among open lands. Traffic Once off of I-5, traffic is generally light, especially on weekends. Difficulty The route carves through parts of the Angeles National Forest with some elevation changes. Roads have enough turns to make them interesting without being technically challenging. Road Conditions Pavement is generally in good repair. During the day, this area enjoys mild to warm weather most months, with just a few chilly winter exceptions, making almost year-round riding possible. Santa Clarita, California Text: Ken Freund Photography: Michelle Baird 1. The Historic Rock Inn The Rock Inn was built in the late 1920s and was later transformed into a unique oasis for weary travelers. It was made out of steel, concrete, and stone after a fire destroyed the first attempt. Over the years it served as an inn, store, post office, and gas station; www.historicrockinn.com. 2. Castaic Lake Castaic Lake is a reservoir in the Sierra Pelona Mountains of northwestern Los Angeles County. The route follows the lake for some distance. Boating and fishing are popular here, although the drought has reduced water levels recently; www.castaiclake.com. 3. Six Flags Magic Mountain This is a 262-acre theme park known for its extreme roller coaster rides. Located just north of Santa Clarita at 26101 Magic Mountain Pkwy,Valencia, CA; (661) 255-4100; www.sixflags.com/magicmountain. 4. St. Francis Dam The St. Francis Dam held a reservoir for Los Angeles located in San Francisquito Canyon about 10 miles north of Santa Clarita. The dam was finished in 1926 under direction of William Mulholland. Just before midnight on March 12, 1928, the dam broke and a flood killed nearly all of the residents, who were asleep and mistook the shaking and rumbling for an earthquake. The ruins are along San Francisquito Canyon Road. Points of Interest Santa Clarita Valencia Agua Dulce Castaic Val Verde Lake Hughes Leona Valley 5 5 5 N2 Approx. 2 mi Route Dir. Roundtrip State/Co Roads Interstate Points of Interest Lunch Start 3 McBean Pkwy Orchard Village Rd Wine Canyon Rd Oak Ridge Dr Railroad Ave Bouquet Canyon Rd BouquetCanyonRd Bouquet Canyon Rd Elizabeth Lake Rd / N2 Elizabeth Lake Rd / N2 La keHu ghes Rd Lake Hughes Rd S an Franc isquito Canyon Rd SanFrancisquitoCanyonRd Copper Hill Rd Rye Canyon Rd Elizabeth Lake Rd Lake Elizabeth Bouquet Reservoir 1 4 2 3 C A L I F O R N I A GPS files and maps are available for free download at www.roadrunner. travel/cityescapes. CITY ESCAPE Text: Ken Freund Photography: Michelle Baird TOURS WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL26
12 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 15 14 1617 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 2728 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 39 38 40 41 42 43 44 47 45 46 49 48 50 51 51 52 53 54 5556 57 58 59 61 60 62 63 64 65 6869 67 66 7170 72 73 74 75 77 76 7879 80 81 82 83 84 Black River Falls To lake arbutus 79 85 87 86 88 FIND YOUR FUN. •Six Routes •84 Destinations •Hundreds of miles of back roads to explore driftlessdestinations.com 1-800-354-2453 or visit for a FREE guide, call
CITY ESCAPE Austin, Texas Text: Florian Neuhauser; Photography: Chris Myers Points of Interest 1. Wimberley Cafe Enjoy a late breakfast after racking up a few miles at this local favorite at 101 Wimberley Square; www.wimberleycafe.com. 2. Luckenbach “Everybody’s Somebody in Luckenback.” As the ghost town’s motto goes, it’s especially true on Sundays when people bring their own instruments and jam out. Don’t worry, plenty of organized bands also perform, making this western town perfect for family time. Motorcyclists enjoy a separate parking area; www.luckenbachtexas.com. 3. Lyndon B. Johnson’s Ranch Learn about our 36th president from his childhood home to the Texas White House. This 5,500 acre ranch is a must-stop in the area; www.nps.gov/lyjo/index.htm. 4. Pedernales Falls State Park Entrance requires a $6 fee for adults. Enjoy a dip in the water, take a hike, or bring a fishing rod; tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/pedernales-falls. Fredericksburg Johnson City Fischer Blanco Dripping Springs Wimberley Comfort Waring Austin Woodcreek Driftwood Rollingwood Bee Cave San Marcos Manchaca Stonewall Luckenbach Old San Antonio Rd OldNo9Hwy Old Blanco Rd CrabappleRd Fischer Store Rd 12 220 181 205 165 306 484 102 45 101 32 473 183 473 281 16 201 21 2766 281 45 101 290 10 71 130 290 35 71 130 87 290 35 71 36087 290 71 130 183 290 290 1323 1323 1320 1623 2721 27211631 1631 16 16 290 87 1376 1376 10 473 473 473 32 32 12 2325 3232 1623 2325 12 12 967 150 1826 150 1826 1 1 1888 1376 170 Pedernales River Canyon Lake Pede rnal es Riv er Colorado River Colo r adoR 1 2 3 4 T E X A S Approx. 2 mi Route Dir. US Roads Roundtrip State/Co Roads Interstate Points of Interest Lunch Start 1 GPS files and maps are available for free download at www.roadrunner.travel/cityescapes. Overview More sweepers than tight curves—explore the countryside southwest of Austin, which will appeal to every type of motorcyclist. From President LBJ’s ranch to German culinary delights, this route has it all. To include all stops along the way, plan ahead and hit the road early in the morning. Don’t forget swimwear in the summer! The best times to travel are in the spring and fall for the milder climate, but this City Escape is fair game practically year round. Length Approximately 205 miles Meet-up Spot Starbucks, 3317 Northland Dr, Austin, TX Lunch Stop Any German restaurant in Fredericksburg will be satisfying. With so many great options, it would be difficult (and unfair) to list just one. Scenery Open landscapes and hilly terrain. Remember: It’s called a “ranch” not a “farm.” Traffic Heavy traffic can be expected in and around Austin, but once out of the city limits one quickly escapes the urbanites. Difficulty This route is not difficult. There’s not a lot of elevation change, and the sweeping curves are predictable. Road Conditions The road surface provides excellent grip and is generally in great condition. TOURS WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL28
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North Carolina More than any other stretch of pavement, Route 66 imprinted the open road into the American psyche and helped shape the cultural fabric of the nation as the automobile came of age. The historic route can trace its origins back to 1857 when the Army Corps of Engineers began work on a wagon trail following the 35th parallel. It wasn’t until 1926, however, that the route between Chicago, IL, and Los Angeles, CA, was given the number 66. At that time, the road was largely dirt or gravel, and the U.S. Highway 66 Association was founded to lobby for paving it from end to end. This was achieved in 1938, making Route 66 the first fully-paved highway in the U.S. Since most small towns and communities had little access to highways in the first half of the 20th century, U.S. 66 was intended to connect the main streets of towns along its route, leading to the road’s unofficial title, the Main Street of America. The Dust Bowl drought and Great Depression of the 1930s sent many farming families west in search of work, and it was Route 66 that brought them there. Their migration inspired John Steinbeck’s classic novel The Grapes of Wrath, further endearing “The Mother Road” to American hearts. The eastern half of the highway traces across the heartland from Chicago to the route’s midpoint in Adrian, TX, just east of the Texas-New Mexico border. Major cities along the way include Springfield, IL, St. Louis, Tulsa, Oklahoma City, and Amarillo. The Honda Gold Wing F6B was made for adventure on the open road, and iconic Route 66 has defined that adventure for generations of Americans. Text and Photography: B. Van Sickle iconic american road Route 66—America’s Main Street Grant Park The Honda Gold Wing F6B soaks up the Mother Road’s miles with unparalleled versatility and performance. Get Your Kicks East Wheels Through Time Museum U-Drop Inn Cafe SPONSORED EDITORIAL30
Points of Interest 1. Chicago’s Grant Park—Chicago, IL The eastern end of Route 66 rises very close to Lake Michigan at one of Chicago’s oldest parks. Grant Park is a popular leisure spot for Windy City residents with wide-open spaces, bridges, fountains, statues, and an interesting history of its own. The park is also bordered by several museums, including the Art Institute of Chicago. 2. Route 66 Association of Illinois Hall of Fame and Museum—Pontiac, IL The first stop along an east-to-west running of U.S. 66 lands in Pontiac, IL, where visitors can peruse thousands of Route 66 artifacts and memorabilia. The town’s Route 66-themed murals are a must for a memorable photo op with your F6B. 3. Cohokia Mounds State Historic Site – Collinsville, IL Located just outside of St. Louis, the Cohokia Mounds are the site of an ancient Native American city. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is open to the public and consists of 80 large earthen mounds constructed by a people known as the Mississippians around the 9th century CE. 4. Meramec Caverns—Stanton, MO The one-time hideout of the infamous outlaw Jesse James, the Meramec Caverns are extensively advertised on the sides of barns and billboards along Route 66 near St. Louis. The limestone caves, which extend for 4.6 miles, were mined for saltpeter during the Civil War. These expansive underground structures are open daily for tours. 5. Kansas Route 66 Historic District—Galena, KS During its brief stay in Kansas, Route 66 passes through the old mining town of Galena. In its heyday, the town was a thriving center of local trade, railroad traffic, and of course, a stopping point for travelers on the Mother Road. Today, much of the old downtown still remains, along with a museum showcasing the past. 6. Rock Cafe—Stroud, OK The Rock Cafe gets its name from the unique sandstone exterior that resembles a giraffe’s pattern. The cafe opened its doors in 1939 and was open 24 hours in the golden years of Route 66. During the war, busloads of hungry soldiers ate here. Today, the Rock Cafe keeps more normal business hours, but one can still grab a bite! 7. Tower Station and U-Drop Inn Cafe—Shamrock, TX This art-deco architectural marvel was also the first business on Route 66 as it passes through Shamrock, TX. The building was originally built in 1936 to house a Conoco gas station and restaurant (the U-Drop Inn Cafe), but it is now home to the town’s chamber of commerce and a visitor center. Spring eld Chicago Bloomington Kansas City St. Louis Indianapolis Lebanon Spring eld Carthage Vinita Tulsa Oklahoma CityAmarillo Elk City Fayetteville Wichita Lawton Adrian Pontiac Stanton Galena Stroud ShamrockTucumcari 27 44 35 35 40 49 49 55 57 65 70 70 70 35 35 5 ILLINOIS M I S S O U R I O K L A H O M A K A N S A S A R K A N S A S T E X A S T E N N E S S E E K E N T U C K Y INDIANA 1 2 4 5 6 78 3 Always consult more detailed maps for touring purposes. Meramec Caverns SPONSORED EDITORIAL 31
North Carolina Today, when people think about Route 66, they see visions of dramatic expanses of southwestern desert and the adventure of exploring the wide-open country. At its peak, the stretch of 66 through New Mexico, Arizona, and California was a bustling highway as Americans moved west to seek their fortunes. Then in 1956, President Eisenhower signed the Federal-Aid Highway Act. From that point on, the writing was on the wall for the Will Rogers Highway. By the end of the 1960s, I-40 had bypassed most rural segments of the route and the slow and steady decline began. Many once thriving roadside businesses began closing their doors, and the small towns began to fall on hard times. Final decertification came in 1985 and Route 66 officially ceased to exist. It wasn’t long, however, before individual states began reviving the iconic road. First came the Arizona Route 66 Association, then Missouri’s, with the rest of the states following suit. In 1990, Missouri established its portion of Route 66 as a state historic route. Other sections of the road were designated as historic and state routes or scenic byways. Many of the abandoned and decaying roadside icons have since been restored to their original glory, and travelers are returning to the road to find that sense of nostalgic Americana. Honda’s Gold Wing F6B is the perfect companion for seeking the host of treasures from our collective past found along the 2,400 miles of Route 66. As Route 66 weaves its way to its final destination in Santa Monica, CA, it travels through landscapes emblematic of the American west. From the Native American reservations of New Mexico, to the ghost towns and hairpin curves of Arizona, and finally through southern California’s Mojave Desert, the western half of Route 66 is a feast for the eyes that’s best enjoyed from the F6B’s saddle. Text and Photography: B. Van Sickle riding the mother road: Iconic Route 66 Blue Swallow Motel Photo: Kevin Mueller Honda’s Gold Wing F6B is the ideal ride for challenging the wide open spaces of the American west. Get Your Kicks West Wheels Through Time Museum Nob Hill Photo: Marble Street Studio SPONSORED EDITORIAL32
Amarillo Sante Fe Albuquerque Gallup Flagsta Kingman Needles Las Vegas Barstow San Diego Los Angeles Santa Monica Denver San Bernardino Adrian ShaTucumcari Oatman Seligman 27 70 17 40 25 25 40 15 15 70 K A TEXAS N E W M E X I C O A R I Z O N A C A L I F O R N I A C O L O R A D O U T A H N EVAD A 8910 121314 11 Always consult more detailed maps for touring purposes. Points of Interest 8. Blue Swallow Motel—Tucumcari, NM The Blue Swallow has been a Route 66 fixture since it opened for business in the 40s. Despite Tucumcari being bypassed by I-40, the motel continued operation. Garage units with wooden overhead doors accompany the motel’s 12 rooms. The Blue Swallow was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1993. 9. Historic Nob Hill—Albuquerque, NM Bright neon lights, eclectic stores, art galleries, and unique restaurants populate the Nob Hill Shopping Center in Albuquerque. Nob Hill sprang up to serve travelers on Route 66 during the 1940s and was designed by well-known local architect, Louis Hesselden. Nob Hill has since grown into a local cultural hub. 10. Petrified Forest National Park—Petrified Forest, AZ The park gets its name from the enormous amount of ancient petrified trees found within its borders. The northern end of the park extends into Arizona’s Painted Desert. At one time, Route 66 crossed the park before it was replaced by I-40. Still, a portion of the original road is preserved within the park. 11. Seligman Historic District—Seligman, AZ What began as a railroad depot was transformed into a thriving commercial district in the small town of Seligman, AZ, by the thousands of Mother Road travelers. A variety of motels, gas stations, restaurants, and other businesses sprang up, complete with classic roadside architecture and plenty of neon signage. 12. Oatman, AZ and Sitgreaves Pass—Oatman, AZ An old mining town that’s gone boom and bust a number of times, Oatman is a microcosm of the fortunes of Route 66. Just outside of town, Sitgreaves Pass is notorious for its steep grades and tight turns—a lot of fun on a F6B! 13. Wigwam Motel Number 7—San Bernardino, CA Though the structures actually resemble teepees and not wigwams, the Wigwam Motel has been a fixture on Route 66 since 1949. The property features 19 concrete and steel wigwams. This is the last of seven Wigwam Motels that were originally built across the country, of which only three remain. 14. Santa Monica Pier—Santa Monica, CA Known as the “emotional end” of Route 66, the Santa Monica Pier brings America’s Main Street right to the Pacific Ocean. Opened in 1909, the Pier boasts an amusement park, Ferris wheel, carousel, and several pubs and restaurants. Concerts and other festivities are frequent during the summer. Santa Monica Pier SPONSORED EDITORIAL 33
YOUR JOURNEYYOUR JOURNEY COULD LEAD YOU AROUNDCOULD LEAD YOU AROUND THE CORNER OR 300 MILES AWAY.
2015 GOLD WING F6B® STREAMLINED FOR THE CITY AND POWER FOR EVERYTHING ELSE. The F6B takes 40 years of Gold Wing heritage, and gives it a modern twist. The result: a bike that can do it all well. It’s nimble in the city and eats up the open road. Style-wise, its shorty windscreen and sleek, integrated hard bags make sure you’re going to get the thumbs-up wherever you decide to take the 1832cc of flat-six power. F6B.Honda.com #RIDERED F6B.Honda.com BE A RESPONSIBLE RIDER.ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET, EYE PROTECTION & PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. NEVER RIDE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF DRUGS OR ALCOHOL. AND NEVER USE THE STREET AS A RACETRACK. OBEY THE LAW AND READ YOUR OWNER’S MANUAL THOROUGHLY. Gold Wing F6B® is a registered trademark of Honda Motor Co., Ltd. ©2015 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. (5/15)
Wisconsin A FINGER in the Lake Text: David Burbach Photography: David Burbach, Jon Jarosh, and Rob Klepper
On the northern tip of the Door County peninsula, the waters of Green Bay meet those of Lake Michigan creating a particularly dangerous stretch of water known to the region’s first French explorers as Porte des Morts Passage or the “Way to the Door of the Dead” (aka Death’s Door). The bottom is littered with hundreds of shipwrecks dating back centuries. Native American tales of canoes disappearing here go back millennia. Thankfully, I’ll be exploring the area by land.
Milwaukee’s Finest M y journey begins in October, 200 miles south of the perilous passage that gave Door County its name. I’m in the American motorcycle mecca that is Milwaukee, WI, the birthplace of Harley-Davidson. And it’s no coincidence that I’m here to pick up one of the local breed. House of Harley, the historic Milwaukee Harley-Davidson dealer, hooks me up with a 2014 Road King rental—I’m ready to roll. Traversing the Sixth Street Viaduct, I’m treated to an expansive view of Milwaukee’s vibrant downtown. Soon, though, the sights and sounds of the city are replaced by the rolling dairy land that Wisconsin is so famous for. Highway 43 takes me north from the city before I wind first inland then eastward, but always north, through beautiful farmland. The air is still warm even though the leaves have begun to display their brightest fall colors. The High Output Twin Cam 103 engine sings the song of its people as I take in its homeland. As my route takes me closer to Lake Michigan, I notice something interesting. Much of the farmland I’m traveling through seems to extend all the way to the water’s edge. I’m used to waterfronts being heavily developed, generally to make houses for those who can afford such a pricey view. But here there seems to be no such desire as fields of corn and soybean take precedence over opulent homes. I find my way over to 42 as I roll through Manitowoc. Just outside of town, the lake makes a triumphant return accompanied by a refreshing dose of cool air streaming in off the water. A few miles later I arrive at the Lighthouse Inn in Two Rivers for a delicious lunch of fresh caught whitefish. The inn is situated right on Lake Michigan with spectacular sights from the huge dining room windows. Up the Peninsula Highway 42 continues to lead me north, and it isn’t long before I officially reach the Door County line. Several miles later I’m rolling into Sturgeon Bay, the county seat. The town gets its name from the bay that it’s situated on, which, along with the Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal completed in 1880, connects Green Bay with Lake Michigan— technically turning the northern section of Door Peninsula into an island. I cross this thin ribbon of water on Sturgeon Bay’s famous Michigan Street Bridge. The clear waters of Washington Harbor wash over the smooth limestone rocks of Schoolhouse Beach. Clean tarmac, blue sky, beautiful country, and a Harley-Davidson make Door County look good! “I rode a Harley to Death’s Door and back!” - David Burbach TOURS JULY/AUGUST ‘15 39
Just north of Sturgeon Bay I’m compelled to stop at the Wisconsin Motorcycle Memorial Park for a few moments of respect. Established in 2004, this roadside park features the “Walkway of Remembrance” with engraved stones commemorating the lives of fallen motorcyclists in a quiet garden. Back on the road I head to the peninsula’s Green Bay shoreline, first taking County Road B to Egg Harbor, before rejoining 42 toward Sister Bay. As I make my way north, the bay is my companion, dodging in and out of view as the Road King ticks off the miles. The afternoon light reveals the brilliant colors of fall just reaching their peak on many of Door County’s trees while others seem to have missed the memo. Turning inland at Sister Bay, the views change from waterfront to farmland before Lake Michigan reappears at Rowleys Bay. By now the sun is hanging low and my stomach is growling. Luckily, I arrive at the Rowleys Bar Resort just in time for a Door County tradition: the fish boil. Back when the area’s major industries were logging and fishing, it was important to be able to feed lots of hungry mouths quickly and cheaply—thus the fish boil was born. A strictly outdoor affair, the boil consists of a large pot of water boiling over a bonfire. Potatoes and onions are added before a basket load of freshly caught whitefish are thrown in. The boil master then throws kerosene, or some other highly-flammable fluid, onto the fire creating and instant conflagration. This causes the pot to boil over, removing the fish oils from the top of the water. The fish cook in about four minutes and, along with the potatoes and onions, are served with plenty of Wisconsin butter. With a full stomach, I leave Rowleys Bay as dusk is falling. Highway 42 and a few more county roads lead back to Egg Harbor. The town gets its peculiar name from a food fight that allegedly took place on June 23, 1825, when fur traders from Mackinac began hurling eggs at each other while anchored in the harbor for the night. At the Landmark Resort, I find my bed for the night awaits. It’s been a full day, but I know there’s still much more to see in Door County. Riding Impression: 2014 Harley-Davidson Road King If there was ever a bike perfectly suited for this trip, the Road King is it. Perhaps it’s the proximity to the bike’s birthplace, or maybe it’s just the relaxed attitude with which the Road King eats up miles, either way it’s a match made in Wisconsin. The Motor Company’s base touring model is a refreshing return to simple motorcycling. There’s no tach, just a big, easy-to-read speedo mounted on the tank. The High Output Twin Cam 103 engine produces adequate power while making all the right noises for a steed of its pedigree. The hard saddlebags grant a nice amount of storage with an accessible and secure opening mechanism. The windshield can be detached quickly but provides decent, though non-adjustable, wind protection.Although it weighs a whopping 814 pounds, the Road King is a laid-back motorcycle to ride. The clutch has just the right resistance, the brakes offer good feel, and there’s always plenty of torque. One place where the Road King could be improved is its suspension. In order to achieve such a low seat height (26.7 inches when laden),the suspension’s stroke is very short. So, to prevent bottoming out it has to be very stiff. The result is that every little bump in the road is passed directly on to the rider. Otherwise, the Road King is pretty comfortable, though the feet forward, standard cruiser position doesn’t do my back any favors. The Road King is well matched to the kind of touring encountered in Door County. With stops every 30-45 minutes I found myself always looking forward to my next chance to twist the throttle. The view from the Landmark Resort as the sun sets over Green Bay. WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL40
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