Where Paris November 2017 (#286)

Read the publication

NO V E MBE R 2 0 17 Issue N o 286 PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ® Flying Fashion FROM THE RUNWAY TO YOUR JET FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS

November PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM PARIS | CONTENTS ® 10 Hot Dates The guide This month’s calendar of 22 SHOPPING must-see events The latest trends and the hottest fashions 14 A Delightful Domain We take you on a tour of the famous 56 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS Chantilly chateau This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 18 Made In Paris Discover the fashions created right 70 DINING here in the heart of the French capital Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants 82 ENTERTAINMENT This month’s best events and coolest bars 94 SERVICES Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings NO V E MBE R 2 0 17 Issue N o 286 PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ® Flying Fashion FROM THE RUNWAY TO YOUR JET FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS WP NOV 17 COVER SOLO VPASCAL.indd 1 10/10/2017 12:12 ON THE COVER Turn to page 34 for our Flying Fashion photo shoot Photo © Alex Fadel THE ® PORTFOLIO IN PARIS We publish editions in Chinese (biannual) and Russian (annual). ® ® RUSSIAN EDITION PARIS - CHINESE EDITION Откройте для себя Париж и многое другое 银联 官方指南 助您探索巴黎 精品店 . 餐厅 景点 . 古迹 THE OFFICIAL PARTNER OF UNIONPAY PARIS | VERSAILLES | DEAUVILLE | PROVENCE | CORSICA COTE D’AZUR | MONTE-CARLO | COURCHEVEL Victor wedding dress from the 2018 collection by the Maison Floret They are available on the concierge desk and in-room at all our partner hotels. Where is the largest global publisher of visitor magazines, available in the finest hotels and operating in 76 cities worldwide. CONNECT WITH US ONLINE Facebook.com/WhereParis Twitter.com/whereparis Maison Floret wedding dresses are only some of the fine creations Scan to watch our latest interview to discover in our Made in Paris feature (Page 18 ) PARIS. MY WAY by where 6 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

Welcome to Paris THE TEAM | WHERE PARIS 35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR paris@wheremagazine.com www.wherepariseditions.com PUBLISHER AND GENERAL MANAGER Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 EDITORINCHIEF Sandra Iskander* The Château de Chantilly is one that conjures up images of CONTRIBUTING WRITERS French royalty and majestic living and in this issue of Where Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* ART DIRECTOR  PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* we take you to the Domain of Chantilly where you will not GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* only discover the chateau but its surrounding gardens and the SHOPPING MAPS ILLUSTRATOR Aline Zalko famous Horse Museum. SALES DIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet jeanlouis.rouxfouillet@wheremagazine.com Meanwhile, celebrating the French savoir-faire in everything ADVERTISING  ACCOUNT MANAGER Aymen Rakrouki* from shoe-making to creating beautiful bespoke wedding Publicité secteur Marché de l’Art dresses our Made in Paris feature introduces you to upscale HELIUM Publicité Tel: 01 48 01 86 86 houses that design and create all their pieces in the very heart contact@heliumpublicite.fr DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER of the French capital. Suzanne Tang* EDITORIAL & COMMUNICATIONS ASSISTANT For our readers who are looking to discover the Fashion Pauline Valter* Capital, on our Shopping pages you will find all the latest OFFICE MANAGER Anne-Marie Dancy* trends including the best looks to travel in to be both *E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE FIRSTNAME.LASTNAMEWHEREMAGAZINE.COM comfortable and still very stylish thanks to our Flying Fashion photo shoot. You will also find the latest must-have accessories MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP I EUROPE for him, the best beauty finds and spas to unwind with relaxing MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning massages. MVP I EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler Meanwhile, in our Dining section foodies will find the latest MVP I CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson offerings from the culinary capital with tables to savour fine, DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey French cuisine as well as contemporary fare showcasing the CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt talents of the city’s chefs. And in our Entertainment section a MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS jazz festival, concerts and a musical are only some of the fun CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III things taking place this month around Paris and on our pages. PRESIDENT AND CEO William S. Morris IV CONNECT WITH US ONLINE We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris. Facebook.com/WhereParis Twitter.com/whereparis Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2015). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal Novembre 2017. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Sandra Iskander Printed by Rotolito Lombarda S.p.a [Editor-in-Chief] WHERE PARIS MAGAZINE is endorsed by: The papers used for this magazine are produced from certified sustainable sources by mills with recognised environmental accreditation. JEANLOUIS ROUXFOUILLET PAULINE VALTER LAURA ZAHARIA Sales Director Editorial and Communications Graphic Design Manager Assistant Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901 8 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

W W W. B A C C A R A T. C O M Yo u a r e i n v i t e d t o d i s c o v e r o u r n e w c o l l e c t i o n a t o u r B a c c a r a t B o u t i q u e s : 7 9 , r u e d u F a u b o u r g S a i n t - H o n o r é • P a r i s 7 5 0 0 8 • Te l : 0 1 4 2 6 5 3 6 2 6 1 1 , P l a c e d e s E t a t s - U n i s • P a r i s 7 5 0 1 6 • Te l : 0 1 4 0 2 2 1 1 0 0

November Meet Me in Paris THROUGH TO NOV 18 London-based artist Paul Thurlby is bringing his Paris to the City of Light and to art store Sergeant Paper. His colourful limited edition illustrations bring to life some of Paris’s most popular areas including Palais Royal and Montmartre with a nostalgic retro touch. 38 rue Quincampoix (4th), 01 71 32 81 89 HOT DATES Discover the best of November in Paris 10 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

PARIS THIS MONTH Dessert Weekend NOV 10 TO 12 Angelina, the famous Parisian tea room, has declared this weekend Mont-Blanc Weekend. Following the previous years’ successful Mont-Blanc Day, Angelina has given what the public wants, a full weekend of whipped Chantilly cream, chestnut cream and crunchy meringue. Celebrating its signature patisserie, this year pastry chef Christophe Appert has deconstructed it and is serving it atop a tart base made with chestnuts. The Tarte Mont-Blanc is available at all Angelina addresses including the historical tea room on Rue de Rivoli. 226 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 42 60 82 00 Palais Royal STGP © Paul Thurlby & Sergeant; Angelina; Yoga: Cours Collectifs © Epictura Julie Ferrez ; Saint-Germain des Neiges © Scalp It’s Snowing NOV 23 TO 26 Namaste Getting in the spirit of the upcoming ski season, NOV 8 the Saint-Germain neighbourhood is transforming itself once again into a charming ski resort. The Stay zen on your trip to the City of Light with Julie Ferrez, one of France’s most Saint-Germain des Neiges event will see chalets famous yoga instructors and all-round health coach. Ferrez hosts different classes and even a ski slope pop up to entertain young around the city and tonight at 7pm she will be at Le Meurice hotel teaching her and old around Place Saint-Sulpice and along rues Yog’n Dance x Le Meurice class, a mix of yoga, dance and barre. Reserve your Guisarde, Princesse and des Canettes. spot at www.julieferrez.com or directly call Le Meurice. Visit www.saintgermaindesneiges.com for the full 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 58 10 10 programme. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 11

PARIS THIS MONTH Trade Shows & Art Fairs NOVEMBER 1-5 PARIS GAMES WEEK This is the video games event of the year in Paris showcasing the latest in games, hardware, software and accessories. Studios, creators, schools and all of the professionals in the sector will be on-hand along with an ESWC competition and a gallery presenting 40 previously unseen original posters. The show is open from 8:30am to 6:30pm and until 6pm on the 5th. www.parisgamesweek.com Paris Expo 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th) NOVEMBER 8-12 FINE ARTS PARIS This show, being held for the first time this year, brings together exceptional works from the 16th century to today presented by leading galleries from France and abroad. Among the offerings being showcased are works by Renoir and Corot to a Renaissance sculpture, an 18th century painting and a Cubist drawing. The show is open from 12 to 8pm, until 10pm on the Once Upon a Time 9th and until 7pm on the 12th. www.finearts-paris.com Palais Brongniart THROUGH TO NOV 18 Place de la Bourse (2nd) The Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie is teaching children aged between NOVEMBER 9-12 7 and 11 about physics, chemistry, mathematics and biology through LES PUCES DU DESIGN an interactive show, bringing to life their favourite fairy tales. Alice in This fair showcases the world of design with sections, known as Wonderland and even The Three Little Pigs will help teach children about villages, devoted to antique design specialists, contemporary optical illusions and construction through fun activities. design and vintage fashion. This year the show will showcase the audacious and conceptual works of Italian designer Ettore 30 ave Corentin-Cariou (19th), 01 40 05 70 00 Sottsass marking the 100th anniversary of his birth. The show is open from 10am to 7pm and from 2pm to 10pm on the 14th. www.pucesdudesign.com Paris Expo 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th) NOVEMBER 9-13 SALON DE LA PHOTO This show is devoted to the latest evolutions in photography and is geared for both amateurs and professionals and offers encounters with leading photographers working in the field. Exhibitions, conferences and the awarding of prizes are all on the agenda. This year the major exhibition is devoted to a leading figure of contemporary photography, Sebastião Salgado. The show is open from 10am to 7pm and closes at 6pm on the 13th. www.lesalondelaphoto.com Paris Expo 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th) Cité des sciences: Era Uma Vez © Daniel Espírito Santo; Dior Senequier © Rizzoli Flammarion NOVEMBER 10-12 FOTOFEVER This art fair devoted to photography and the visual image brings together some 150 emerging photographers and 80 French and Dior in the Sun international galleries showcasing photography, digital art and video. The show is geared towards collectors and is open from 11am to 8pm and closes at 6pm on the 12th. ALL MONTH www.fotofeverartfair.com Carrousel du Louvre Galerie Martine Gossieaux is exhibiting the works of Jean-Philippe 99 rue de Rivoli (1st) Delhomme, which the artist created for the book Christian Dior and the NOVEMBER 17-20 South. The colourful drawings show the fashion designer in the south of UN BIJOU POUR NOEL France surrounded by his famous friends as they take in the fabulous sites This jewellery fair showcases jewellery from independent from enjoying a drink at Senequier in Saint Tropez to walking alongside French creators and features unique pieces and made-to- Marlene Dietrich in Cannes. measure offerings from over a dozen designers. The show is open from 11am to 8pm and until 6pm on the 20th. 56 rue de l’Université (7th), 01 45 44 48 55 www.unbijoupournoel.fr Hôtel de l’Industrie 4 Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th) 12 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

G A L E R I ES L A FAY E T T E PA R I S H AU S S M A N N THE ULTIMATE SHOPPING DESTINATION Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, of fers more than 3,500 brands from af fordable to the most prestigious references amongst which Chanel, Christian Dior, Cartier, Saint Laurent Paris, Dolce & Gabbana, Fauré Lepage, Messika, Céline, Bulgari, Rolex, Fendi, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, Boucheron. DELICIOUS NOEL, A FUN AND MAGICAL LA CAVE : SCRUMPTIOUS NOEL TREE! AN EXCEPTIONAL SELECTION T h e m a g i c c o n t i n u e s o n t h e s i x t h f l o o r, w i t h t h e Christmas is the time of year to have fun. Recapture L a C av e a t L a f a y e t t e G o u r m e t i s t h e d e s t i n a t i o n Galerie of Gif ts. Spread over nearly 14,000 square the childlike wonder of the festive spirit with a visit of choice for Parisian and international wine feet, hundreds of items – each more spectacular than to a tree unlike any other, under the dome of Galeries c o n n o i s s e u r s a l i ke. W i t h 25 0 0 l a b e l s , i t h o u s e s the last – have been chosen to inspire you and help Lafayette Haussmann. an exceptional range of grands vins from Bordeaux, you find gif ts to delight young and old alike. A huge tree surrounded by countless balloons Champagne and other French regions, world wines To c e l eb rate t his fe s t i ve sp iri t, Gal e rie s L afay et te and giant mylar ‘candies’, all scat tered beneath the and spirits, all the while fostering the spirit of a local Gourmet has asked several top pastry chefs to create dome. wine merchant. an assor tment of exclusive sweet treats. Jean - Paul Located on the 1st f loor of Lafayette Gourmet, La Cave Hévin, Pierre Hermé Paris, Benoît Castel, Yann Couvreur, spans some 450 m 2, in addition to part of its selection L’Éclair de G énie, Dalloyau and Lib er té have e a ch also available within the Butchers, Seafood and Dairy applied their unique savoir-faire and a dash of magic sections of Gourmet. to give a new twist to the traditional yule log. GALERIES L AFAYET TE PARIS HAUSSMANN: 40, BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN, 75009 PARIS METRO: CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - L A FAYET TE Open every day from 9.30 am to 8.30 pm and on Sunday from 11 am to 7 pm. Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 - haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/

A Delightful Domain By Patricia Valicenti J ust an hour north of Paris the department of Oise, named for the acquired the property for the future Domain of Chantilly in 1450 through majestic river that winds through it, is home to an exceptional marriage. They built the charming structure that stands there today and architectural and cultural heritage. No less than 300 castles were turned it into one of the most celebrated domains in France. It would built in the region between the reigns of Francis I and Napoleon remain in the family for two centuries. III, and one of the stars of these exceptional castles, located in one of the largest forests in the Paris region, is the Domain of Chantilly, home to However, the Domain of Chantilly is regarded as the masterpiece of a the private apartments of the Duke and Duchess d’Aumale, the second man, Henri of Orléans, the Duke d’Aumale. Collector, aristocrat, an officer largest collection of old paintings in France, the largest horse stables in the French army, bibliophile and a man of taste, the prince was the in Europe and one of the most prestigious libraries in the world whose fifth son of the French king, Louis Philippe. He would inherit the Domain collection includes the celebrated Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, of Chantilly from his godfather Louis-Henri Bourbon, the prince of Condé regarded as the most important illuminated Gothic manuscript of the in the 19th century when he was only eight-years-old. Among the 830 15th century. paintings conserved at Chantilly are some 100 Italian paintings including masterpieces by Filippino Lippi and Raphaël. Prestigious families through the centuries have inhabited the domain. Anne de Montmorency, soldier, statesmen and an influential member of Through the foresight of the Duke d’Aumale, this precious domain of the French court was born in Chantilly in 1493. The Montmorency family woodlands, gardens, castle and stables has been thoroughly preserved 14 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

Day Trip enabling its historical and cultural riches to be explored by the public. The décor reflects the 18th century taste for the exotic, fashionable during The Duke, who had no direct heir, bequeathed Chantilly to the Institut de the Regency and at the beginning of the reign of Louis XV. By the windows France on the condition that after his death the Condé Museum would in the Grande Singerie, humans are depicted serving monkeys. be open to the public, that its layout would be maintained and that the The Prince’s bedroom has retained its original woodwork with hunting collections would not be loaned out. He died in 1897 and less than one motifs from the early 18th century and is ornamented with decorative The Domain of Chantilly Photo © DOMAINE DE CHANTILLY year later the museum was opened to the public on April 17th, 1898. paintings depicting exotic animals in a decor of oriental pagodas further underscoring the taste for the exotic and faraway lands in the 18th century. A visit to the domain provides a glimpse into the gracious lifestyle of the 19th century, but as well as offering a look into the 17th and 18th The horse, too, is central to life at Chantilly both in the past and today. centuries as well. The castle’s apartments are a reflection of the French The domain’s Horse Museum is filled with over two hundred objects decorative arts of the 17th to the 19th centuries and are located in the recounting the importance of the horse to mankind from Antiquity to oldest part of the castle, known as the little castle that was built in the the present. Paintings, works of art, equestrian equipment and ample Renaissance by Jean Bullant for Anne de Montmorency, a Constable of audio-visual displays take the visitor into the world of the horse with two France in the 16th century and who had commissioned the construction rooms devoted to a fine ensemble of carousel horses. The domain also of the castle. Among the most amusing rooms inside is the Grande has a Living Horse museum, which presents equestrian shows and takes Singerie decorated with whimsical, rich illustrations notably, monkeys. the visitor into the domain’s prestigious stables. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 15

Day Trip The castle of the Domain of Chantilly Photo © Sophie Lloyd; Temple de vénus (The Temple of Venus) on the grounds of Chantilly Photo © Otte; Galerie des cerfs (the Gallery of the Deer) inside the castle of Chantilly Photo © Sophie Lloyd ; Ile d’amour (the Island of Love) on the grounds of Chantilly Photo © Otte Clockwise from top left: The castle of the Domain of Chantilly; Temple de Vénus (The Temple of Venus); Galerie des Cerfs (the Gallery of the Deer); Ile d’Amour (the Island of Love) One of the more intriguing buildings at Chantilly is the Jeu de Paume, modern and contemporary artists including Pablo Picasso, Francis which housed the courts for playing the ball and court game that Bacon and Annette Messager. originated in France and is sometimes referred to as real tennis, the courts are among the last to have been built in France back in the The Musée Condé of the Domain of Chantilly collection of paintings and 19th century. Fashioned in cut stone and topped with a slate roof the drawings by Nicolas Poussin is second only to that of the Louvre in France. building is outfitted with an elegant wrought iron balcony. It contains His Massacre des Innocents (The Massacre of the Innocents) stands out for two distinct entities, the court space itself and a space facing the its treatment of the subject matter based on the biblical account of King chateau where players changed and rested up. The Duke d’Aumale Herod’s order to execute all children under two years of age in Bethlehem, transformed it into a museum to exhibit large paintings and today it a subject that was very popular in 17th century art. Poussin’s interpretation, hosts the domain’s temporary exhibitions. showing the violence and brutality of the executioner and the despairing horror of the mother whose pained expression is unforgettable, continues Currently Le Massacre des Innocents, the masterpiece by Nicolas to resonate. Poussin’s painting has been copied by many other artists, Poussin, is the focal point of a major show underway in the Jeu including Fragonard and inspired many others including Picasso and de Paume, running through to January 7th. From the genesis of Bacon. The show brings together some 50 works underscoring the the painting to its legacy, the work is juxtaposed with a number painting’s legacy and influence through many examples of paintings by of prestigious artworks, on loan from other institutions, by leading modern and contemporary artists. 16 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

Cabinet d’angle, corner space inside the castle of Chantilly Photo © Sophie Lloyd ; The Salon violet (The Violet Room) inside the castle of Chantilly Photo © Sophie Lloyd Cabinet d’Angle (top photo) and The Salon violet (The Violet Room) inside the castle of Chantilly Meanwhile, one of the highlights of Chantilly is the domain’s superb One of the great treats to indulge in at the domain is the world gardens, with French gardens designed by André Le Nôtre who would famous Chantilly whipped cream. Immaculately white, airy, delicate design the gardens at Versailles, although those of Chantilly remained and creamy at the same time, its origins remain uncertain although his favourites. They are filled with fountains and extensive water basins it is said to have originated in the Hamlet and the Prince of Condé’s and house the Grand Canal, which at 2.5 metres long is 600 metres dairy. Famous throughout Europe the dairy was accessed by a longer than the one at Versailles. The Hamlet in the Anglo-Chinese beautiful courtyard, built with marble and housing basins to churn garden would inspire the one built for Marie-Antoinette at the Trianon the butter and porcelain vases filled with cream. The famous whipped and is made up of five small rustic houses. Originally the garden cream was served during receptions in the great cottage of the around the Hamlet included landscaped areas related to cooking, there Hamlet where distinguished guests to Chantilly were entertained. was an orchard with fruit trees, a vine on a mill and the houses were The delightful cream can be enjoyed in several spots on the premises surrounded with small vegetable gardens and fruit bushes. Today, including La Capitainerie Restaurant, the Moulin du Hameau the Anglo-Chinese garden remains one of the domain’s most popular Restaurant right in the Hamlet (closes November 13th) and the Café attractions. The 19th century English Garden makes for a fine stroll with des Ecuries. its Temple of Venus nestled on a water basin populated by swans and waterfowl. CHÂTEAU ET DOMAINE DE CHANTILLY 60500 Chantilly, 03 44 27 31 80 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 17

Made in Paris Made in Paris By Patricia Valicenti B ustling bistros, dignified boutiques, marvellous monuments and picture- perfect settings are all part of the familiar face of Paris that emerges to the eye, but behind quite a number of facades another story is being played out. Right in the French capital metal is being melted, leather is being tooled, gemstones are being set and silver is being smithed for the French capital is studded with workshops, studios, manufactures and even a factory. And in addition to the established houses and artisans there is room for the new as well with a host of manufactures and workshops and young creators emerging on the Made in Paris landscape. The oldest of them all is La Monnaie de Paris, the mint, which was created in 864 and has been minting coins for the past 1150 years and is today considered to be the last factory in Paris. It has been located on the Left Bank right on the Seine in a palatial building since the 18th century and has just re-opened after six years of extensive renovations and refurbishments and is now known as 11 Conti-Monnaie de Paris. The site was given the Living Heritage label, a mark of recognition of the French state established to reward French firms for the excellence of their traditions and know-how, in 2011 and here metal is worked, smelted, chased and 18 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

Savoir-Faire Edgar wedding dress from the 2018 collection by the Maison Floret ; Uzume broach representing a fan with violet sapphires and tsavorites with green pear-shaped fluorite by Stéphanie Deydier; The Charles hat in bordeaux wool felt with a turquoise band from Poupard & Delaunay The Edgar wedding dress from the 2018 collection by Maison Floret (opposite page) and the Charles hat in bordeaux wool felt with a turquoise band from Poupard & Delaunay (above) gilded. Visitors can discover the treasures in the manufacture’s collections 14th generation of the family at the helm of the house, which is just over as well as the workshops of the mint where some 150 craftsmen are at 400 years old and is possibly the oldest jewellery house in activity in the work minting decorative, art and collector coins, medals and decorations. world. Specialists in high quality gemstones and made to measure pieces, The site also hosts temporary contemporary art exhibitions, events and the house’s jewellery creations, including the high jewellery collections, performances and houses a boutique, a café and a gastronomic restaurant. are still wrought today in their workshops in the heart of Paris above the boutique on Rue de la Paix and where on a daily basis the fashioning of Weavers and dye-makers have been entrenched in Paris since at least the pieces for the collections, for special orders, for unique pieces, repairs and 17th century and today the crafts carry on in their historic Gobelins site transformations, are underway in much the same way as they have been for where the arts and craftsmen of the state-owned Mobilier National and the generations. Manufactures des Gobelins, de Beauvais et de la Savonnerie continue to weave fine tapestries and make dyes, mainly for the state and state gifts. It Silversmith Nicolas Marischael has been creating fine pieces in his Parisian all began back in the 15th century when Jehan Gobelin created a dye works studio for over 15 years now. He is the custodian of a savoir-faire that in what is now the 13th arrondissement of Paris where the underground has been handed down through three generations. The intense know- Bièvre River flowed, reputed for its dyeing and colouring properties. In the how of gold and silver smithing with chasing, welding at the forge and 17th century King Henry IV established tapestry workshops in buildings engraving has been perpetuated by the family since 1924, with the rented from the descendants of the Gobelin dyers and the manufactory Marischael Orfèvre-Paris house possessing the EPV label, Entreprise du would become a leading centre of fine tapestry production. During the Patrimoine Vivant (Living Heritage label). Nicolas Marischael joined the family reign of Louis XIV goldsmiths, metal smiths and cabinetmakers were also establishment in 1981 when the house’s workshops were still located in installed inside the Gobelins. Today, the tapestry manufacture has a staff of the Marais. Today, his workshop and showroom, frequented by collectors, 30 and 15 looms turning out between six and seven pieces annually. Guided museum representatives, antique dealers and individuals on a quest for tours of the tapestry weaving workshops are held on Tuesdays, Wednesdays state-of-the-art restorations and fine contemporary pieces, is found beneath and Thursdays at 1pm for which it is best to book in advance. There is also a the lofty arches of the Viaduc des Arts. gallery on the site hosting temporary exhibitions Paris was historically a perfume-making centre with the perfumers generally Known as the jeweller to the queens, the family-owned house of Mellerio located between the Pont des Arts and the Pont Neuf. And nearby right dits Meller has supplied jewellery to the European courts since the time of on the Quai du Louvre, a small, luxury house of perfume-making has been Marie de’ Medici. Today, Laurent Mellerio represents the youngest of the established by Chantal Sanier, not far from those perfumers of yore. Her w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19

Savoir-Faire Tools used at the Monnaie de Paris Photo © Monnaie de Paris Jean-Marc Martin; The silversmith Nicolas Marischael crafting a piece in his workshop Photo © Marischael; Earrings from the Foglio high jewellery collection of Mellerio dits Meller with tsavorites and diamonds © Mellerio dits Meller Odeur de Sainteté, meaning scents of sanctity, perfumes renew with the The milliner house of Poupard & Delaunay has a workshop and traditions of old-fashioned perfume-making before synthetic molecules showroom in the elegant Batignolles neighbourhood of Paris. The house arrived on the horizon and so she elaborates her perfumes using only perpetuates a unique ancestral know-how dating back to the end of extracts of aromatic plants harkening back to the perfumes that were the 18th century when a certain Napoleon Bonaparte purchased his produced hundreds of years ago. The nine fragrances of Odeur de Sainteté famous bicorn hat fashioned by Poupard. Poupard & Delaunay was born have evocative names like Marie Madeleine (Mary Magdalene) or Etat de in 1811 and in 2013 the Langlois family decided to give the house a new Grâce (State of Grace) and are bottled in blown glass flasks, which are made impetus while remaining faithful to the house’s savoir-faire and craft of amber glass that is used for medicinal preparations for the compositions traditions. The house’s particularity is that its creations are numbered must not be exposed to light. The house has a dedicated boutique in and brought out in a limited series of 10 pieces, and for the ultimate in the Palais Royal but you can also make an appointment at the perfumer’s exclusive, the house does made-to-measure pieces. workshop on the Quai du Louvre. A closely guarded and new secret is found in northern Paris in the shoe- Stéphanie Deydier has been fashioning one of a kind jewels in Paris since making workshop of Atelier du Tranchet, tranchet being the French 2010. Working with precious materials in her studio in the heart of the word for a skiving knife, the tool that is essential for cutting leather. Marais on Rue du Temple, she draws her inspiration from her travels around Christophe Corthay sculpts shoes for men while Christophe Algans the world, notably to Asia. After studying law, art history and gemmology sculpts shoes for women, she began her working career in 2007 in Christie’s jewellery department. all made-to-measure. Diamonds, rubies, tourmalines, sapphires and aquamarines seemingly come The shoes at Atelier du to life in her creations. Among the unique pieces one finds in her Legends Tranchet are fashioned of Yazhou collection is a necklace with 20 strands of fresh water pearls held from the finest of materials, together by two Buddhas in onyx encircled with diamonds while violet python and crocodile, sapphires pave a fan brooch enhanced with a pear-shaped green fluorite, whose origins are strictly the luminous stone that gave its name to the phenomenon of fluorescence. controlled and an entire skin or hide is used for For ultimate chic, a wedding dress made in the heart of Paris can be found a single pair of shoes, in a studio/boutique tucked away in the 10th arrondissement of the city. and the house’s patinas The Maison Floret has been fashioning fine wedding dresses for a flourishing are suave, powerful and three years now and the designer, Sidonie Floret works with carefully captivating. The taking of selected aristocratic fabrics and materials like Calais lace, jacquard and measurements and fittings Mikado silk. Two appointments are essential for a unique wedding dress to are conducted exclusively emerge with the initial visit an opportunity to discover the various styles and by the two craftsmen with to define the shapes and fabrics for the dress, while the second is for taking a made-to-measure pair measures and determining the modifications. These are followed by two taking anywhere between fitting sessions and you need to allow six months for a piece that is already 6 to 9 months to be in the collection and at least 8 months for a unique piece. fashioned. 20 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

Shoe in blue crocodile with mini shoe of the same model from the Atelier du Tranchet Photo © Atelier du Tranchet; Workshop at the Manufacture des Gobelins Photo © Thibaut Chapotot; The Quai du Louvre workshop of Chantal Sanier where the Odeur De Sainteté perfumes are made. Photo © Agence Les Muses; Mellerio dits Meller high Opposite Page (clockwise from top left): Tools used at the Monnaie de Paris; The silversmith Nicolas Marischael crafting a piece in his workshop; Earrings from the Foglio high jewellery collection of Mellerio dits Meller with tsavorites and diamonds. This Page (clockwise from top left): Shoe in blue crocodile with mini shoe of the same model from the Atelier du Tranchet; Workshop at the Manufacture des Gobelins; The Quai du Louvre workshop of Chantal Sanier where the Odeur de Sainteté perfumes are made; Mellerio dits Meller high jewellery collection Giardino choker with Isola Madre motif with blue-green tourmaline, tsavorites, pink sapphires, garnets and diamonds, which can be transformed into a brooch or pendant jewellery collection Giardino choker with Isola Madre motif with blue-green tourmaline, tsavorites, pink sapphires, garnets and diamonds, transformable into a brooch or pendant © Mellerio dits Meller ADDRESS BOOK 11 CONTIMONNAIE DE PARIS MARISCHAEL ORFÈVREPARIS 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01 40 46 56 66 Viaduc des Arts, 87 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01 42 78 53 67 ATELIER DU TRANCHET MELLERIO DITS MELLER 128 blvd Macdonald (19th), 01 42 45 86 53 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 42 61 57 53 MAISON FLORET ODEUR DE SAINTETÉ By appointment 14 Galerie de Montpensier (1st)/22 Quai du Louvre (1st) 1 Cité Riverin (10th), 01 71 26 79 09 For the workshop call 06 11 94 15 85 MOBILIER NATIONAL ET DES MANUFACTURES DES POUPARD & DELAUNAY GOBELINS, DE BEAUVAIS ET DE LA SAVONNERIE 15 rue Brochant (17th), 09 84 13 11 80 42 ave des Gobelins (13th), 01 44 08 53 49 STÉPHANIE DEYDIER Individual guided tours of the Manufactures, information and By appointment reservations at Cultival call 08 25 05 44 05 06 20 55 19 71 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 21

The Guide SHOPPING By Sandra Iskander For Her | Jewellery | For Him | Accessories | Beauty Buys | Spas | For Children Turn to page 25 for our Pretty in Pink looks 22 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

SHOPPING For Her CK’s Americana Step back into 1970’s America with Calvin Klein’s current collection. With Raf Simons at the helm, the designer’s debut collection for the fashion house is a nod to Americana, complete with double denim and cowboy boots. Tapping into the old for the new, the collection features tailored pants, form-fitting shirts and a whole lot of casual attitude. Calvin Klein Boutique 54 rue Etienne Marcel (2nd), 01 42 60 38 77 Statement Accessories Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975 where she embarked on creating colourfully original pieces. Today, she has her gallery-like jewellery boutique here in Paris where you can find her unique designs. Her latest autumn/winter collection takes inspiration from the 20s and 30s when the art of cabinet-making and mineral processing gave life to precious artefacts. Taking its name from a mineral, the Malachite collection includes pieces that glow with a myriad of green offsetting the carving appearance of the Calvin Klein © 2017 Giovanni Giannoni jewellery. Angela Caputi Boutique 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01 40 39 01 51 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 23

SHOPPING Jewellery Blue is the New Red at RedLine The RedLine red bracelet has become a cult accessory with fashionistas around the world while Colette is known internationally as the quintessentially avant-garde boutique in the fashion capital, so it is no surprise that two of Paris’s favourite names in fashion have come together. Creating a limited edition collection, RedLine has brought Colette’s signature blue hue to our jewellery boxes with its Illusion and Ange bracelets, which are not only made using a blue string but are also designed with 18-carat blue gold. The bracelets are sold exclusively at Colette and not only make a fabulous statement piece but a special souvenir from Colette, which is closing its doors in December. Colette 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 55 35 33 90 Couture Jewellery Tasaki, the jewellery house famous for its graphic designs and use of pearls recently appointed fashion designer Prabal Gurung as its artistic director, and with a new designer comes a new line of fine jewellery for the house. The Tasaki Atelier collection was unveiled during New York Fashion Week at the designer’s show, and demonstrates the elegant marriage between fashion and jewellery. The pieces evoke movement, recalling fluid lines in couture designs, while putting on show the jewellery house’s fine pearls and exceptional diamonds. Tasaki Boutique The Ritz Hotel 15 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 42 36 33 00 24 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

SHOPPING For Her Pretty in PINK 3 4 1 5 2 6 9 8 7 1 Giambattista Valli, 30 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 83 62 09 04 2 Ralph & Russo, 29 rue François Ier (2nd floor) (8th), 06 61 63 48 49 3 Sawtay, 37 rue du Dragon (6th), 01 45 44 88 49 4 Les Néréides, 61 rue Bonaparte (6th), 09 81 75 78 59 5 I.D. Sarrieri, Available at Printemps Haussmann, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00 6 Marly, 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01 85 09 49 49 7 Chatelles, 94 rue du Bac (7th), 01 42 22 20 46 8 Selima Optique, 14 rue de Birague (4th), 01 47 63 23 39 9 Garden Glory, available at Galeries Lafayette, 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 25

SHOPPING For Him A Pop-Up Look Shop the new Autumn/Winter 2017/2018 men’s collection at the Rochas pop-up boutique. Located on the exclusive Rue Saint-Honoré, the boutique showcases the latest collection, which elegantly combines sophisticated and tailored lines with more rock ‘n’ roll-inspired details. Voluminous knits, leather pants and metallic detailing all come together to create the quintessentially fashion-forward look for any gentleman who dares with fashion. Rochas Pop-Up Boutique 420 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 45 08 49 63 To the Sea The house of Breguet launched this year an exclusive model, the sporty yet elegant Marine Equation Marchante 5887 marking a new era in Breguet’s contemporary Marine collection. The timepiece is outfitted with the equation of time complication, one of the rarest of timepiece complications for it displays the difference between mean solar time (that of man) that corresponds to standard hours and minutes and true solar time (that of nature), the actual solar hours and minutes. The watch indicates both standard time and solar time through two separate minute hands with the running solar hand adorned with a facetted solar sun. Complementing the running equation complication is a perpetual calendar featuring the days of the week as well as the months and the leap-year cycle. The self-winding watch also features an intriguing 60-second tourbillon complication, a power reserve of 80 hours and is waterproof to 100 meters. The watch is available in a case of platinum with a blue dial in gold or in an 18k rose gold case with the dial in silvered gold. - P.V. Breguet Boutique 6 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 47 03 65 00 26 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

SHOPPING For Him Flying Pens Synonymous with beautiful writing instruments, Montblanc has been responsible for entrancing penmanship over the years and the luxury house continuous its tradition in offering collectors beautifully crafted pens with its latest addition to the Writers Edition. Inspired by Antoine Marie Jean-Baptiste Roger, the celebrated French writer and pilot, the Writers Edition Antoine Saint-Exupéry limited edition collection features a fountain pen that draws from the writer’s Caudron Simoun plane and his novel Night Flight to create a graphically detailed pen while showing the sky as seen by him on the 1st of November 1929 at 11pm when he conducted Aéropostale’s flight. The pen also features engravings of the geographic positions of cities important to the writer while the star engraved on the nib is a nod to The Little Prince, the writer’s most famous work. Montblanc Boutique 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 76 74 91 50 Racing Fashion It is a partnership that has proven successful over the years and so it is no surprise that fashion brand Hackett is again collaborating with Aston Martin on a capsule collection. Marking the third capsule collection, the autumn/ winter 2017/2018 Aston Martin by Hackett collection is inspired by both brands’ eye for detail and luxury, bringing gentlemen 19 pieces to integrate into their wardrobe. The capsule collection is made up of jackets, shirts and blazers tailored with a sophisticated nod to the famous cars with the use of laser to create comfortable yet elegant designs. Hackett Boutique 58 rue de Rennes (6th), 01 45 49 18 93 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 27

SHOPPING For Him THE TOURIST 2 1 7 6 Calvin Klein © 2017 Giovanni Giannoni; Audio Technica © Audio Technica 3 5 4 1 Christian Lacroix, Available at Printemps Haussmann, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00 2 Commune de Paris, 19 rue Commines (3rd), 09 81 90 13 37 3 Calvin Klein, Available at Galeries Lafayette, 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 4 Huawei, Available at Fnac, Galerie du Claridge, 74 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 08 25 02 00 20 5 Le Coq Sportif, 121 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 09 80 51 50 25 6 Hasselblad, Available at Objectif Bastille, 11 rue Jules César (12th), 01 43 43 57 38 7 Audio Technica, 11 rue des Pyramides (1st), 01 43 72 82 82 28 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

SHOPPING Beauty Beautiful BROWS They say the eyes are the windows to the soul so make sure yours are framed beautifully, starting with well-groomed eyebrows. 1 Nourish and hydrate your 2 To help achieve a fuller brow 3 Create the perfect arch by using Too Faced’s Chocolate Brow-nie brow brows with Chado’s Huile and promote hair growth use pencil. The waterproof formula not Cristal, a nourishing oil that Melvita’s organic Castor Oil. only smells like chocolate but it also helps strengthen your Melvita Boutique conditions your eyebrows while helping eyebrows. 1 rue Auber (9th), you define your brows. Available at Printemps 01 42 65 27 52 Available at Sephora 4 5 Blend your own brow colour with Zoeva’s Brow Spectrum Palette. The brow kit comes with 9 long-wearing 6 For a more striking look opt for a semi-permanent eyebrow Fill in any patches to create powders in different finishes including treatment at Les Cils de Marie the perfect brow with matt and satin to help you create your where you can fill in any patches Benefit’s Foolproof Brow bespoke shade making sure your or create a fuller brow in just one Powder. The powder is easy eyebrows look as natural or as intense hour. to use and helps you achieve as you want them. Les Cils de Marie Beauty Salon natural-looking brows. Rituals Boutique 110 rue de la Boétie (8th), Available at Sephora Available at Sephora 06 58 07 77 79 30 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

SHOPPING Spas A Majestic Facelift As the beauty therapist’s fingers delicately dance on your face working in Valmont’s latest mask, Masque Majestueux, from the luxury brand’s new L’Elixir des Glaciers skincare range, let yourself go and embrace the sleepy state taking over. The Soin Majestueux facial is 90 minutes of relaxation with the treatment leaving your skin hydrated, nourished and with a glow. Working to lift your facial muscles, the treatment aims to smooth fine lines while applying the Japanese Kobido massage technique that uses pressure on your acupuncture points to promote in-depth rejuvenation. While the mask is working its magic the therapist treats you to a head massage, further taking you into the relaxation cloud that has you floating on air. Ideally book this treatment at the end of the day to avoid applying make-up afterwards to prolong the benefits of the facial for as long as possible without polluting your skin or upon landing in Paris to rejuvenate it after your flight. Spa Valmont Le Meurice Hotel 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 58 10 77 Spa Day Forget the world for two hours while you enjoy a traditional Thai massage at the hands of WAT PO-trained therapists at Ban Thaï Spa. Conveniently located between Place du Trocadéro and Avenue des Champs-Elysées, the spa is an ideal treat after a day of intense shopping and sightseeing. Taking you on a relaxing voyage through relaxing music and sensual scents, the spa is both welcoming and relaxing from the moment you enter it. Single and double massage rooms allow guests to enjoy a massage solo or with a partner or friend, and with the spa open daily from 11am Spa Valmont © Guillaume de Laubier to 9pm you can easily unwind at any time of the day. Choose a foot massage to relieve you from aching feet from walking around all day or opt for the traditional Thai massage, which focuses on releasing tension by combining acupressure and yoga positions. Ban Thaï Spa 25 ave Raymond Poincaré (16th), 01 43 59 39 39 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 31

SHOPPING For Children Skater Kids 1 3 2 8 5 4 6 7 1 Little Marc Jacobs, Available at Galeries Lafayette, 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56 2 DKNY, Available at Kids Around Boutique, 113 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01 45 05 19 50 3 Hugo Boss, 115 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01 53 57 35 40 4 Molo, Available at Galeries Lafayette 5 Frescobol Carioca, Available at Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 80 00 6 Karl Lagerfeld Kids, Available at Kids Around Boutique 7 Timberland, Available at Kids Around Boutique 8 Zadig & Voltaire, 22 rue de Turenne (4th), 01 42 71 81 12 ADVERTORIAL Tikibou Toy Store The oldest toy store in Paris, Tikibou, is where you can find an incredible selection of antique favourites. Here you will find playful gems including Tintin, model cars and music boxes, making the shopping experience here quite exceptional. The wonderful and fun selection of toys, for both young and old, which include a fine choice of scale models and miniature trains makes this store an ideal address if you are looking for a unique gift for a collector or if you are looking for something that will bring a smile to your child and which could remain in the family for years to come. 33 blvd Edgar Quinet - Paris 14th Tel: 01 43 20 98 79 (M° Edgar Quinet) 20 ave Félix Faure - Paris 15th (M° Félix Faure) Tel: 01 45 58 17 44 32 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

Your ultimate Parisian shoPPing experience Come and find us at Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport

SHOPPING Fashion Flying Fashion Nuri wears Etro pants All Saints shirt Hugo Boss coat Unützer shoes Hartmann suitcase Gianni wears Michael Kors pants and pullover De Fursac coat Salvatore Ferragamo shoes 34 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

Photographer: Alex Fadel Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Photographer’s Assistant: Pierrick Patarin Make-Up Artist & Hairstylist: Caroline Nguyen Models: Nuri Son from Crystal Model Management and Gianni Giardinelli from Marilyn Agency Special thanks to Paris Aéroport: Paris – Charles de Gaulle w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 35

Giorgio Armani pants and jacket Balibaris t-shirt 36 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

Roland Mouret top and bag All Saints cropped jeans Galeries Lafayette cap Gia Couture mules (Available at Le Bon Marché) Leonard coat Hartmann suitcase w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 37

Michael Kors jeans and trench coat Moreau bag Hartmann suitcase Gucci watch 38 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017 Giuseppe Zanotti shoes

Nuri wears Gianni wears Brunello Cucinelli pants Brunello Cucinelli jeans Michael Kors coat De Fursac trench coat Giuseppe Zanotti boots All Saints shoes Danse Lente bag (Available at Salvatore Ferragamo bag Le Bon Marché) Tumi suitcase Samsonite suitcase w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 39

40 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

Gianni wears Mr Porter pants Ungaro jacket YSL glasses Nuri wears Giorgio Armani pants and coat Chiara Ferragni t-shirt (Available at Le Bon Marché) Emmanuelle Zysman necklace w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 41

Ungaro jeans Etro pullover Hugo Boss coat Tumi passport holder 42 W H E R E PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

Yumi Katsura jacket David Yurman ring HTC mobile phone w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 43

Address Book SHOPPING For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris ACCESSORIES Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd), Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine 01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Yohji Yamamoto - 4 rue Cambon Paris (1st), CLOTHING: MEN & WOMEN 01.40.20.00.71. M° Concorde Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), Yves Salomon - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt 01.47.03.34.90. M° Tuileries Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V BCBGMAXAZRIA -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), DEPARTMENT STORES 01.43.12.55.20. M° Madeleine Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), & SHOPPING CENTRES 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels BEAUTY SPAS & PRODUCTS Boggi Milano - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (1st), Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Cerruti 1881 - 51 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro 01.53.30.18.81, M° Havre-Caumartin Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), Cercle Delacre - 17 ave George V (8th), Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette 01.40.70.99.70. M° George V 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min) (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon Emile Lafaurie - 56/58 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), EYE WEAR (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine 01.42.74.50.05. M° Saint-Paul GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Gresley Paris - 24 ave de l’Opéra (1st), Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V 01.42.33.35.81. M° Pyramides Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac Maison Arabian Oud - 63 ave des Champs- Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), Elysées (8th), 01.43.59.59.59. M° Franklin D. Roosvelt 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine FABRICS: COUTURE Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), Iris Cantabri - 15 rue des Blancs Manteaux (4th), Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt 01.70.23.93.23. M° Hôtel de Ville 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac HOME Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), BOOKS & MUSIC 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra 01.42.65.36.26. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt FNAC - Bercy Village - 49/53 Cour Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), Saint-Emilion (12th), M° Cour Saint-Emilion 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra Paul Beuscher - 27 blvd Beaumarchais (4th), Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.44.54.36 00. M° Bastille (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th), Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), Jean Perzel - 3 rue de la Cité Universitaire (17th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine 01.45.88.77.24. RER B: Cité Universitaire Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.33.35.08. M° Pyramides 01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain CHILDREN’S CLOTHING & TOYS 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine Baccarat ©Laurent Parrault BACCARAT | Home L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR | Beauty Spas & Products 44 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017 

SHOPPING Address Book JEWELLERY & WATCHES Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), Hedgren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra 01.42.36.36.97. M° Madeleine A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie Kate Lee - 16 rue des Gravilliers (3rd), Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde 01.48.04.57.72. M° Arts et Métiers Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), Burma - 346 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries 01.42.96.08.42. M° Tuileries 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), Rolex - 48 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde 01.53.23.88.00. M° Alma- Marceau 01.47.20.48.48. M° George V Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Alma Marceau 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Tous Bijoux - 266 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), Colette - 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra 01.76.00.30.91. M° Palais Royal Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. M° Tuileries 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde SHOES DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries LINGERIE Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V 01.45.64.09.90. M° George V Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st), Aubercy – 34 rue Vivienne (2nd), 01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine 01.42.33.93.61. M° Grands Boulevards Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), Cesare Paciotti - 12 ave Montaigne (8th), Garel - 17 Rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries 01.47.23.75.57. M° Alma Marceau 01.42.61.40.04. M° Opéra La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Garland - 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine 01.42.61.17.95. M° Opéra LUGGAGE AND BAGS Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde Gas Bijoux - 26-28 Rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Quatre Septembre 09.86.58.69.41. M° Bourse Gorky - 18 rue Duphot (1st) , 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), J.M. Weston – 46 rue des Archives (4th), 01.42.60.22.76. M° Concorde 01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Gringoire Joallier - 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01.48.04.75.65. M° Rambuteau 01.77.37.05.05. M° Miromesnil Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde CHOPARD | Jewellery & Watches EDEN PARK | Clothing: Men & Women w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 45

LUXURY MAP Faubourg Saint-Honoré SHOP STOP FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT MIROMESNIL RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ RU • Sothys EL AB OÉT CIER PER IE NUE • Christie’s AVE IL ESN • •Richard Mille AV EN CA SS É MIR OM RU Cifonelli UE Steiger DE L ED E EL RU MATIGNON • • UE AB AVE NUE MATIGNON EN Puiforcat AV OÉT • • IE Baccarat RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ L Gringoire SNI ME Rimowa• Joaillier M IRO Daniel Levy Mugler • E DE RUE • Azzaro • RU RU B O U LE VA DU C EL IRQU E Vhernier • AB F.P. Journe OÉT IL • ESN IE OM R D H A U SS MIR RU E ED ED RU WEMPE EP EN Pierre Cardin TH • MANN RU IÈV The renowned German watchmaker has been AVENUE DE MARIGNY • Miu-Miu ÉS EL RE ÉR AB satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring B AC OÉT • RUE D C AM IE a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches Caron ES SA E RU RUE and chronometers. US SA SAINT-AUGUSTIN NORÉ IE • Loriblu ROQ S 16 rue Royale - Paris 8th UÉP RG NT-HO Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 O Élysée Palace AST INE BLV ’ ED DH www.wempe.fr RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE RU AU G SAI SSM RU E DE DU RA RUE • Sotheby’s S AN N Frette • ROQ G • Chopard Moreau • RUE D ’A S TOR BOUR UÉP SHOP STOP •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray INE U FAU Alberta Ferretti• ES • Christian Louboutin RB Apostrophe • • Pomellato HE RUE D ES • Opera Gallery RUE DE SURÈNE AL RUE • Barbara AVE NU E GA BR IEL Bui DM RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • DES M AR Capel • EV Bally UL •55 Croisette ATHU BO •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli RINS • Ermenegildo Hogan U ’A N J O Roger Vivier • • • Zegna RUE D RUE D Valentino • RUE D’ANJOU Heurgon • Janssens Mettez ES MA Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent Jitrois & Janssens Les NORÉ Chanel • • • Crockett Dandys • T H U R IN Tod’s • • Givenchy Boucheron &Jones • UIER RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HO Cartier Alessi Burberry • RUE PASQ • • Hermès S • JANSSENS & JANSSENS Place de RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE • RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS L ’A R C la Concorde Lanvin Oliver Grant RUE DE Au Lanvin • •• • In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré La Perla de H au • RUE D Be Laliq e • ma eu d discover more than 3,000 different clothing Laulhère Ch rn • ES MA rs rgo fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute ard ue • ris Prada Pig n • to •• couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can Pinko Chanel T H U R IN fl ue • also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses. Gucci t Dior MADELEINE RUE ROYALE • •• 3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) • • S Royal Iro Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 •Wempe Ralph• RUE TRONCHET RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ Quartz www.janssensparis.com CONCORDE Furla• • Eres Michael Kors • Lauren Église de la Madeleine • Lancaster Kenzo • Swarovski Mulberry • •Kate spade • Marella • SHOP STOP Jardin des Valentino • • Max Mara RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN •• • BCBGMaxazria BO Tuileries ULE Césaire Atelier RUE DE RIVOLI • Zwilling RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ VA Cologne RD •Anne E SÈZE Hublot • DE Fontaine Chronopassion • LA RUE D MA Fendi • RUE DU MONT-THABOR DEL ge Le auré EIN el Pa an E F Ch • • Hedgren Yohji • •Tom FordRUE CAMBON • • Yamamoto Roberto Cavalli • • Messika • •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger Tommy Morabito • • Coach Hilfiger BO RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ • Alexander McQueen UL Chloé • • Emporio Armani EVA Hackett • RD Ports 1961• • Marc Jacobs LAULHÈRE INES DE DsQuared2 • • David Morris Lacoste • • SC APUC Bucherer Tumi • AP This company has been fashioning authentic • Omega Omega• UC DES C Arije J.M. Weston • • Tag Heuer INE French berets in France since 1840. Designated a • Yves Salomon• • Samsonite S RUE Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its R U E CA ST IG LI O N E • Bonbon Watch berets for men and women. • Burma Ciro pour Place Vendôme 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th In the courtyard Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 www.laulhere-france.com 46 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available SHOP STOP to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit! Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 MICHAEL KORSHAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING Michael Kors is a world-renowned designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear, offering a lifestyle for WWW.WEMPE.COM the consummate jet setter that is as sophisticated as it is indulgent and as glamorous as it is modern. 279 rue Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 36 44 40 We accept all credit cards. www.michaelkors.com

LUXURY MAP Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal SHOP STOP RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ Place de la Concorde Burberry • RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS Lanvin • •Lanvin • Oliver Grant Carita • • La Perla Berluti • CONCORDE Panerai • Laulhère • Christofle Gucci Chanel • • • Dior MADELEINE • RUE ROYALE RUE ROYALE • Wempe • RUE TRONC HET Vertu •Eres • RUE SAINT-HONORÉ Église de la Madeleine Michael Kors • • Lancaster Carel Mulberry • • Kate spade • RUE DE RIVOLI Musée de l’Orangerie Swarovski ■ Jeu de Paume Valentino • • Tory Burch • Jardin des ■ RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN • Max Mara Marella LAULHÈRE • BCBGMaxazria BL Tuileries • Le Jacquard VD Césaire • Français • Zwilling DE This company has been fashioning authentic O T • Gorky • Lipault Hublot • LA P H French berets in France since 1840. Designated a U MA Chronopassion • ED Antiquités Living Heritage company, the house uses the finest RU DE Fendi• LEI Parakian of materials like pure virgin merino wool for its Paris •RU E NE berets for men and women. CA MB ON Chanel Hedgren RU E CA MB ON • 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th Max&Moi • • • Roberto Cavalli • Tom Ford RU E • • CA MB ON RUE SAINT- HONOR É In the courtyard Messika• • Kiton Jamin Hervé • BO Puech Léger Maison Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 59 Morabito• • Coach Tommy • Abriza UL Chloé• • Alexander McQueen Hilfiger EV www.laulhere-france.com • Brioni AR Ports • •Emporio Armani INES DD DsQuared2 • •Marc Jacobs ES APUC SHOP STOP Tumi• •David Morris CA Arije J.M. • Bally • PU DES C • RUE DE RIVOLI Weston CIN RU E CA ST Chopard IG LI ON E • RUE ES Place Vendôme Garel RUE S Goyard • RUE DE Garland •Dubail •Dodo LA PA IX • • A IN T -H Church’s• •Baldinini TUILERIES Paule Ka• •Moynat RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA Jack Russell Opéra Garnier ONORÉ • • Burma •Stuart Weitzman Ami • • Balenciaga Missoni• OPÉRA Kiehl’s• • Akillis Place du Marché Kusmi • Barbara Rihl Saint-Honoré Tea A Colette • •Christian Dior ÉR • De Fursac Chantal Thomass • •M.A.C • L ’OP CÉSAIRE Penhaligon’s • UE DE RUE S Peuterey • EN Structured like architectural masterpieces, cut La Prairie • •Paraboot AV A IN T -H RUE SAINT-ROCH like couture creations, Stéphanie Césaire’s bags • Verbreuil are made with splendid leathers by the best The Kooples • •Cotélac ONORÉ artisans of French luxury. The designer presents RUE DES PYRAMIDES her bags, alluring like dresses, in her boutique full of flair and character. Carrousel du Louvre •Nodus PYRAMIDES • Gresley Vivienne • •Tous 6 rue Saint Florentin - Paris 1st RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS Westwood Tel: +33 (0)1 42 97 43 43 •Shiatzy Chen Acaba • •Aésop RA www.stephaniecesaire.com PÉ L’O FreyWille DE SHOP STOP • N UE A VE a ivk • RedLine R • Kam’s •Q ier L nna • PALAIS ROYAL t RUE RICHELIEU do id •A Printemps RUE RICHELIEU u ■ du Louvre n Bibliothèque Nationale e eli - Site Richelieu-Louvois •D Galerie de Montpensier Palais Royal RUE VIVIENNE RUE DE LA FEUILLADE Aïzea Galerie de Valois • Galerie Vivienne • • • • • RUE DE RIVOLI • • • RUE DE VALOIS ey Ca ni lla rmi re Ste Pa Fab s Ma ck O tens GORKY ANTIQUITÉS Ri Lu do Se Mo aux rto Delv rdy n n rtn • Francesco Russo Mc gia iso we rg lte Ha 0039 Italy rre e A member of the Syndicat National des • Pie Antiquaires, Gorky Antiquités specialises in Co Musée du Louvre Place Napoleon III, Art Nouveau, Belle Epoque, Art Maje des Victoires • PS Déco, Retro, signed jewellery and Russian pieces. RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM Gerard Darel Hartford • After 30 years at the Louvre des Antiquaires, • Kenzo • by Terry Gorky Antiquités opened its new gallery • • • RU Eric Philippe Xavier Lust Les petites ED • • • boutique in the 1st arrondissement in 2016. ’AB Angela Caputi Y’s Yohji Bonpoint OU Christian • • 18 rue Duphot - Paris 1st Il Bisonte Yamamoto KI IRO R Louboutin Espace • Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 22 76 • Cachemire • gorky@gorkyantiq.com Galerie Véro-Dodat RUE DU LOUVR E www.gorkyantiq.com ▼ 48 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

Open from Monday to Saturday: 10am-7.30pm Sunday: 12:30pm-6:30pm 24 Avenue de l’Opéra, Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 33 35 81 www.gresley.fr

LUXURY MAP Champs-Élysées - Montaigne SHOP STOP GRANDE ARMÉE AVENUE DE LA AVE NUE OT RN FOC CA AV EN H UE UE Arc de Triomphe EN VIC AV TOR N RUE HU AHO LAUR GO M AC M ISTO N NUE AVE AVENUE KLÉBER AVENUE DE WAGRAM AVENUE KLÉBER Fabio Caviglia• RUE JEAN GIRAU NA D’IÉ AV NUE EN UE AVE HO ARABIAN OUD CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE CH E DOUX U CEA On the most famous avenue in the French capital AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES AR RUE G EM you will find the intoxicating scents of Arabian NA AVE ALILÉ E D’IÉ U NUE EN NUE Oud. This perfume house showcases an array of AVE • Cartier AV Publicis Drugstore • Place des • DE perfumes with strong notes of agar wood, musk, États-Unis FRI incense and scented oils. Montblanc EDL Maison Baccarat RUE G Lancel • ■ ALILÉ A E ND 63 ave des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th IÉN A Tel: +33(0)1 43 59 59 59 ENU E D’ • Swarovski U AV CEA www.arabianoud.fr Hugo RUE R • GrandOptical MA RUE D Boss E BAS • UE JEAN GIRAUDOUX SANO EN AV RUE BALZAC SHOP STOP • Milady GEORGE V RUE DE CHAI U Louis LLOT C EA Vuitton• M AR UE Kenzo AV EN • • RUE WA AVE NUE Armani Collezioni Swatch SHINGTO N PIER RE 1 ER • Lacoste • • Tag Heuer DE S ERB ORG E V Hermes Omega • • • Marionnaud Paris GE • Eric Bompard• IE NUE AVE Ellie • Bvlgari • Dubail RUE AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES • Zegna DE B •Stefano Ricci •Ulysse Nardin • U Saab Longchamp ERR Leonard Elysées I A RC EA Creed • • Christofle Shopping • Elysées M Altan Bottier Joaillerie AV EN UE • RUE P •Les Suites • Arije • IERRE • •M.A.C. • JLC OPTICIEN LUNETIER E V CHA Cartier •Givenchy Kusmi R R ON • Tea • •Levi’s •Tissot • In the heart of “Le triangle d’or” which is THE area Scabal • GEORG Rolex • Chaumet Dubail Elysées Cercle V E NUE Beretta • • Sephora Horlogerie in Paris for luxury shopping, JLC Opticien Lunetier Delacre • A De Fursac Paule Ka • RUE MA • • Arabian • • Guerlain offers you a very personalized service and a large • Sicis • Burma • •Tom FordRUE PI •Carvil Oud Franck RBEUF • LE66 Champs-Elysées IS 1 ER selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear Namani ERR JLC Opticien • • Zilli EC • Mauboussin ANÇO HAR from the best brands such as Dita, Thom Browne, • RUE Guy Laroche • RON • Tiffany RUE DE PONTHIEU • Balenciaga DE L Kiton FR Mykita, Dior, Chanel, Oliver Peoples and more... A TR É Vionnet • Smalto • R U E M• RUE By Marie&Gas Bijoux MOI RUE LLE A Berluti • RBEUFWolford 18 rue Marbeuf - Paris 8th LA B AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES Diane Von • OÉT DOR ALMA MARCEAU Furstenberg • Balmain IE Tel: +33 (0)1 58 12 06 72 Karl • OCCA www.jlcopticien.com • •Courrèges Lagerfeld DU B Valentino Caron Zadig&Voltaire • • J.M. Weston RUE • AVE • Thomas • SHOP STOP Giorgio Armani N UE M Harry Pink • RUE DU Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello O Winston • Alaïa NAN LIS CO MARIG Cesare Paciotti E • Dior • RUE DE Disney ÉE Joseph• • Cucinelli • PSG • Giorgio Armani • Nina Ricci • • Louis Vuitton Maison Ullens FRANKLIN • Quicksilver Dior • • Versace D.ROOSEVELT AVE •Salvatore Ferragamo • RU NUE EJ Akris Dior • MON • Chanel •Adidas EA NG Givenchy TA • Chanel • IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Fendi OU Meet the French JO • Céline • N Dinh Loewe•• Van Pucci • •Marni Ralph Lauren •• • • Weleda Dolce&Gabbana •• • Les Champs d’Or Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine COURS ST Dupont MEET THE FRENCH ELT PORT DE LA CO RU AVEN Elie Saab • ROOSEV EJ UE M ALBERT EA D. ATIG NG NON Meet the French is not only an exceptional KLIN RAN OU UE F FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT JO 1ER chauffeur service but the company with 85 N N AVE NFÉRENCE years of experience also offers its elite clientele a AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES bespoke service. While standard trips are easily organised, the company prides itself on also organising guided tours to discover France’s abundance of savoir-faire. EVE LT OOS 12/14 Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th IN D.R NKL Tel: +33 (0)1 53 53 14 94 FRA NUE www.meet-the-french.com AVE Grand Palais 50 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

LUXURY MAP Vendôme SHOP STOP Gare Saint-Lazare TRINITÉ - SAINT-LAZARE D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES RUE SAINT-LAZARE Passage du Havre E Galeries du Diamant • RU E DU HA VR GALERIES LAFAYETTE RUE MOG ADOR Printemps VICTOIRE E D E LA • Moda di PARIS HAUSSMANN Homme Printemps R U R U Mode E JO U B ER T RU E JO UB ER Andrea Printemps Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large T Beauté-Maison selection of items in every segment, from fashion HAVRE- • RUE DE P R O V EN to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and CE Guerlain • CAUMARTIN Galeries Lafayette fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Cerruti • Galeries Coupole ADOR Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, Lafayette symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more Homme MOG than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most DE BOU CA RU LEV RUE prestigious references. L ’AR ED ES M ARD DE ATH URIN • HAU 40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th R UE S Lafayette SSM Maison&Gourmet ANN Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 ET haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/ RU CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE CH Uniqlo • EA RUE ON DES OY ON UB TR MAT Opéra Garnier AUR HUR ER VIGN E SHOP STOP RU INS • EM RUE Sephora OT D Paraboot• RUE BOUDREA U • GOD N • Eres ARTI Fragonard RUE CAUM Exaltation RUE • IBE • • Max&Moi CR MADELEINE L’Occitane Golfino OPÉRA ES Mario • RU Dessuti• VI I •Loding Bucherer D O U AR Église de la Madeleine Tag Heuer Montblanc Lancel Boggi •Zwilling • R U E ÈD • • • • BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS J.M. Weston• • • •Gant • • • IKKS •Maty ACABA D ▼ Bally AN Waskoll RU GR Gorky Antiquités • E A. Lange Hedgren • B O N Tommy Hackett Omega LE DA RUE At ACABA Gantier, Claire Gros welcomes you • Marvella IS & Söhne NO • OU AM Hilfiger • U to help you find the gloves that will fit you best. EL C Repetto DES E Poiray U • Christofle RU Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can also be R Corthay Y Garland • • Harrison C AP combined for a special order. Come and try the • OLNE Piaget Cartier • Diesel • UCI Le Mans Classic drivers gloves, golf, horse-riding, Yumi Katsura E V • Hugo Boss • Bodum • IX • Lery NES Jimmy Choo R U Panerai hunting gloves... or any unlined one, to match IWC • PA Dinh Van AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA your outfit. For Her, for Him, the new collection Alexander McQueen • L •Fred A • Louis Vuitton comes up with bicolored lined or unlined, very Emporio Armani Cartier • UE DE• Breitling • classic close to quite specials. Dior Dubail R • Jaquet Droz • Damiani Bvlgari • Anshindo 41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st • Miki Graff Diamond’s • • • • •Vacheron Constantin • RU House Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 / www.acaba.fr Tasaki• • •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • De Fursac ES • Omega Rolex AI • Jaeger- • • Boucheron RUE NT TIN • LeCoultre -H AN ON DA • Fred •• SHOP STOP Van Cleef • Desigual D’ DsQuared2 • • & Arpels NIE OR Place Vendôme E LLE RU É Tumi • • Blancpain CA S Kusmi • de Grisogono • Chanel A N O Tea VA L J.M. Weston • • Piaget RU • HU Chopard EG É • EM O • • • Chaumet MB OU RU Breguet • Hublot ST FreyWille • • • Patek Philippe Place du Marché Dior Zadig & RU ED Voltaire ES Saint-Honoré PE Meyrowitz • • Louis Vuitton • TIT S-C HA Lydia • Montagut • MP E Dodo S IÉR Courteille RU UD H RU • Moynat • NE OC ES H.Stern SO ED IO T-R • UM LA Acaba AI • • Balenciaga GL Tourist IN ON TI NT DE Arije SA T - T Paule Ka AS -H Office E • EC HA Akillis RU E ON • PYRAMIDES RUE RU ED BO • • OR R • Jovoy RU É Missoni TH Christian Dior ÉR • Ami • M.A.C ÈSE BUCHERER PARIS •Frank Namani • Colette • • Bonpoint S AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA DE RU MI Penhaligon’s • ES In the heart of the Opera district, between Place RA AI PY Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Mulberry • NT ES ER ED -H LG Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing RU ON D’A LET OR the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. E RU É UIL The largest boutique in the world dedicated to 9J timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop. U2 ED 12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th RU Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com w w w.wh e re tr ave l e r. com 51

LUXURY MAP Le Marais SHOP STOP BV D DU TE RUE MP DU P LE ETIT THO UAR S BV RU D E D DE RUE DU TEMPLE SF E FILLES DU CALVAIRE TUR ILL Carreau du Temple ■ ES ENN T DU RU E CH AR LO E The Broken Arm La Boutique CA RU E PE RR ÉE • Extraordinaire • RU Liquides LV AI • Betjman & Barton A IR E E RE • April 77 • DE • Moulin Roty CALV AR EL LI Bellerose • OR• • Pierre Meurgey N 13 Bonaparte RD IE S DU S M M IN E AN Maison RU E DE CA FF RU E DE PI CA D F IL L E White • Ron Dorff IE Bird • • Kitsune COM Empreintes • • DES RU March La.B Bonton• • Melinda LOUIS QUATORZE RUE Mes Demoiselles • BV E D RU E DE BR ET Popelini • RUE Gloss D AG NE E T BE T O IS S A R • AU UR The Louis Quatorze and Castelbajac Paris Le Slip RUE FR • de APC MA • ENN • YM E T Maisons have joined forces for a sunny and Cuisse RC RU E CH AR LO JLC Opticien Français Le Labo grenouille E HA • Merci • EL LE ecological collaboration. Monogrammed OUX Atelier Oska • IS RUE DU TEMPLE UX CH Ami • scarves, bags, kits exclusively for the occasion, • • Lords&Fools NT A R U E D EB U PO Cologne French U E D SAINT-SÉBASTIEN Sandro• available since September 25. Tom Greyhound • • Trotters R 106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd État Libre • Maison Labiche FROISSART Kate Florian Christophe • • P O IT O U Robinson d'Orange • Kenzo Les Bains A U D E• LE Tel: +33 (0)1 42 72 94 43 Lee Denicourt DE Paul Smith • Lemaire R U E • • Saint James •-CL TEMP • • RUE DES ARC HIV ES www.louisquatorzeparis.fr Pas de RUE PASTOURELLE • APC Jack Gomme • A I N T TO NG E Calais S LE DU Stephane U E • Marcel by R Wooyoungmi RU Verdino SHOP STOP Weekday• • VIEIL RU E DE SA IN E D Customellow • CH AR LO T E Nice• • Louis Quatorze TUR RUE Eclectic • ENN Things Vanessa RUE DE THORIGNY •Mr • Bonastre •Fred E Musée National RU E Bruno Marzo Picasso • Les Petites • RU E DE S HA UD RI ET TE • Le Mont Saint Michel S Magnanni • RU E DE S 4 FI LS • La Fée Maraboutée • Consuelo Zoelly RUE DU TEMPLE RU E DE LA PE RL E LE LES IN T -G IL TEMP RUE DES ARC HIV ES RU E DU PA RC RO YA L RUE SA Centre Pompidou LE DU Nicolaï • •FredRUEPerry Mi-Mai • EMILE LAFAURIE VIEIL • Jamin BARBETTE Puech VI GN É Manoush • Acqua d tyque Musée Cognacq-Jay • Aesol RUE Founded in 1992 in Paris, men’s contemporary Karen ■ • RU E SÉ Hartford Place des Vosges RUE PAY ENN E ➞ Les Mille Feuilles fashion designer, Emile Lafaurie, is the go-to • RUE Marionnaud Paris • Emile Lafaurie Dip Guerla DES FRAN lifestyle brand for impeccably tailored clothes • Chanel Penhaligon’s i Parma CS BOURGE • Millen OIS and contemporary casual gear for today's man. • Carhartt Fragonard • • •Esteban Pandora Musée Carnavalet Repetto • FRANCS BO • • Ted Baker ■ Known for signature pieces like the painter coat, • RUE DES in the designer specializes in fine fabrics and a •Mademoiselle Iro • Muji • • URGEOIS •• •• ➞ • Essentiel Jeanne Michael • • • • • • refined color palette. Kors Uniqlo Aubade • • Marie Sixtine Lancel Bobby Brown J.M. Weston •TEA Kiehl’s Eres Swatch Ekyog 56/58 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd RUE DES BLA NCS MAN UX • ea y El Ganso 28 rue du Temple - Paris 4th • IZIPIZI i T err se t •Maje• • RUE DU TEMPLE sm d P reu Bimba y Lola RUE Iris Cantabri u e Devernois • RUE RUE VIEILLE DU TEMPLE Tel: +33 (0)1 42 74 50 05 K Fr C Maison Chanel • • • • L Créa Concept e Alain Mikli • www.emilelafaurie.com Francis Kurkdjian Wolford • R U E D ES Cos • L’Argenterie Lipault • • Moustaches Thomas • All Saints • R O SI ER S • • Heschung• de Turenne S É V IG N DE TURENNE RUE DU PLATRE Cire El Ganso • DE JARENTE SHOP STOP RUE Sabo • Paule Ka RUEMasha K.Jacques • • • J.Crew Huygens Sandro• Trudon • RUE PAVEE É MA • RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE • Gucci• •John Galliano • •Ugg •Carven Keja LHE Thierry Lacoste • Mode en Nike Fleux Villenave R • Givenchy Crockett • Karl Demeure RUE D'ORMESSON BHV Marais • Valentino & • Le l’Homme • Fendi Jones Lagerfeld • • RUE DU ROI •DE SICILE •Maje Chevignon• Moncler • • IN T- AN TO IN E RUE DE LA VERRERI E RU E SA MX • Paraboot • RIVOLI SAINT-PAUL RUE D E • Finsbury Le BHV Marais • Sentou À l'Olivier • E R IVOLI • E D RU OIS MIRON HOTEL DE VILLE FRANÇ ARLEM AGNE •Pierre Boisset RUE CH RUE DU PONT LOUIS- PHILIPPE RUE Village Saint Paul ■ •Psyché Papier+ • Mémorial de la Shoah RUE DU FAUCONNIER ■ Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier Melodies CROCKETT & JONES RUE GEOFFROY L'ASNIER • • Graphiques RUE SAINT-PAUL A reference for almost 140 years among • Calligrane Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury RUE DE LOBAU brand for men and women is committed to PONT MARIE maintaining the highest standards of traditional RUE DE L’HOTEL DE VILLE craftsmanship and custom-made service. QUAI DES CÉLESTINS 16 rue du Bourg-Tibourg - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 67 82 84 30 www.crockettandjones.com 52 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

LUXURY MAP Saint-Germain SHOP STOP Musée d’Orsay RUE DE E LIL E AU V LE AC DU B • QU DE B AI Aga VO RUE CAR LTA RUE RÉ R I RE IVE RUE GAU Moissonnier DE CHE RU • LIL LE ATELIER VALENTIN ED AC E L’ U DU B N IVE RS Atelier Valentin, situated in the heart of Saint-Germain, E ITÉ RUE E AU N RUE offers a large selection of glasses and sunglasses, all DE VER ÉRES DE B handcrafted by the most distinguished designers and NEU IL TS-P brands in the world, including Francis Klein, Anne & RUE Ofée . • • CAR SAIN Valentin, Mykita and Olivier Goldsmith (pictured Maje • RÉ R Poltrona IVE Buly 1803 • above). The boutique offers customers original and Atelier Cologne • GAU DES Frau CHE unique glasses, ensuring you stand out in a crowd. Hartwood • RUE TE A PA R 30 rue Bonaparte - Paris 6th Deyrolle Tel: +33 (0)1 44 07 04 28 • BON The Kooples C • BA www.ateliervalentin-paris.com RUE DU Gérard • •Silvera E RU Darel Escales • SHOP STOP ▼ ÉRES • JLC Opticien Elsa • Vanier TS-P RUE DU BAC RU E DE SEI NE BO UL Debauve & SAIN • John Lobb Gallais • RU DES EV EJ AC AR Atelier • OB RUE DS Bang RU E MA ZAR INE Edward Green • AI NT • & Olufsen Valentin Faienceries • Roche Bobois• -G Zadig & Voltaire de Gien ER Cinna • MA • Karl Lagerfeld R TE • • Fabrice BOULEV IN • A PA Aubercy Poiray RUE BON BO • Liu Jo Christian • U • Façonnable RUE ARD RA L E VA Stella • Louboutin DE L RD • Louis ’A B • Agent Luna Etro • SAI B AY Vuitton E DOT-DROPS® Provocateur Sonia • • • N T - G ERM • S PA IL • Brunello Rykiel Moncler AIN DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy Cucinelli • Burberry Ralph SAINT-GERMAIN Hugo Boss few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French Voyeurs • • Paul Smith Ami Maison Lauren Emporio • DES-PRÉS • manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve • • Lejaby• Armani • BOU GON harmony between design and functionality. L.K. • Y’s Cartier L E VA R • De Fursac • Céline D SA DRA DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage Bennett INT- RU GER Rolex• DU of colours, design and unexpected materials. E Carven • Ferragamo • Dinh Van MAI DE • Hackett• MABILLON N Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the RUE Crockett & Jones Alexis Mabille • • GR Montblanc • • ES EN Kenzo boutique and make your travel experience unique! Paraboot • Gas • J.M. Weston ENN EL A IS E Saint Laurent• LE L’Ibis Rouge • Bijoux • DE R 8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th • OUR RUE MA BIL LON LA CH DU F RUE DE SEINE RUE PRI NCE SSE RUE Liu Jo Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris Sportmax• Prada • Marina • Tod’s Rinaldi RUE RUE DE • U FOUR Dot-Drops • Alain Mikli • La Perla • É D RUE MA DAM E RU E DE CO ND Durance RUE SHOP STOP M.A.C.• • • Omega Repetto Le Mont Berluti • É V RES • Saint Michel RUE DE BABYLONE • RU E D E S • • Agnès b Saint • RUE DES CANETTES •WilleLongines Camper • Lancaster • • Laurent SU LP IC E RUE DE TOURNON SÉVRES-BABYLONE Frey SA IN T- • • Longchamp RUE RUE BON APAR TE Hermès • IDI Eres • Robert ULPICE E-M Clergerie SAINT-SULPICE Zadig RUE ST-S •Lise CH BOULEV Le Bon S Loxwood & Voltaire RUE DE L’ODÉON E ER Marché S É V R • Charmel CH NES • DE • Il Bisonte DU REN E ARD RA E R U • Guerlain RU DE • Wolford RUE MÉZ IÉR ES • IUNX RUE • L’Occitane Église Saint-Sulpice • Lacoste S PA IL RUE DE TOURNON Parfums RUE SERVANDONI MONTPARNASSE ▼ RUE DE COND É BVD DU MO E NTP RU E BO NA PA RT NES RUE MAD AME RUE FÉROU RIVE GAUCHE ARN ASS REN E E VÉ DE Montparnasse Rive Gauche is a premier RIR L’A RUE destination for a great shopping and dining DE Montparnasse • Rive Gauche E experience. In the heart of Paris enjoy the famous RU retailers such as Galeries Lafayette, C&A, Nature MONTPARNASSE-BIENVENÜE RU E D’OD & Découvertes, Lacoste... At the 56th floor of the Montparnasse Tower at the visit panoramic. Tikibou VAU G IR A R D RUE DE Jardins du Luxembourg ES SA Toy Store B V 11 rue de l’Arrivée - Paris 15th D • EDG AR www.montparnasserivegauche.com QU INE T 54 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION An artful JOURNEY A treasure trove of art and veritable feast for decorators. Looking Vivant Denon, the first director of archaeology is waiting for a Tiffany lamp, a 17th century the Louvre, took up lodgings at 9 to be discovered in porcelain vase from China decorated quai Voltaire back in the early 19th the 110 galleries that with dragons, a Planetarium clock century. form the Carré Rive Gauche, an for the mantle, these are among the association of art and antique objects to be found in the galleries The association also has a dealers founded 40 years ago. of the Carré Rive Gauche with the philanthropic arm, the Fonds de It is a diverse and rich world gallery owners on hand to tell you dotation Carré Rive Gauche, which recounting a history of over about them. contributes to the conservation and 7,000 years of art, antiques and restoration of cultural heritage. the decorative arts through The galleries are located in the exceptional pieces. heart of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighbourhood, which with its The galleries are generally open Visitors and collectors can mansions and quaint streets was from Tuesday to Saturday from discover museum-quality pieces historically favoured by illustrious 11am to 7pm. ranging from the arts of the Far East, personalities in the world of arts www.carrerivegauche.com of Antiquity, of Europe and beyond. including Charles Baudelaire, There are items from the world of Alexandre Dumas and Amedeo Located on the Left Bank on science, textiles and even opium- Modigliani. Jean-Auguste Ingres and around the Quai Voltaire, related objects. From ceramics to had his studio at 17 quai Voltaire rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, glassware, to contemporary and and Serge Gainsbourg composed rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, modern art, the elegant choices are his celebrated songs at 5 bis rue rue de Beaune and rue des endless and the galleries provide a de Verneuil while Dominique Saints-Pères (7th) w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 55

The Guide ARTS& ATTRACTIONS By Patricia Valicenti Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours Irving Penn, Girl with Tobacco on Tongue (Mary Jane Russell), New York, 1951, épreuve gélatino-argentique, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York,, Promised Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation © Condé Nast Visit the Grand Palais to see a retrospective of Irving Penn’s work (opposite page) 56 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions Paul Signac (French, 1863–1935). Opus 217. Against the Enamel of a Background Rhythmic with Beats and Angles, Tones, and Tints, Portrait of M. Félix Fénéon in 1890, 1890, Oil on canvas 29 x 36 1/2” (73.5 x 92.5 cm). Fractional gift of Mr. and Mrs. David Rockefeller 85.1991 © Adagp, Paris, 2017 ; Irving Penn, Rochas Mermaid Dress (Lisa A Memorable Moment with the MoMA A landmark exhibition is being played out at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in the Bois de Boulogne on the western edge of town. Entitled Etre Moderne: Le MoMA à Paris (Being Modern, the MoMA in Paris), the exhibition showcases a selection of 200 works from the unparalleled collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York. The show is curated jointly by the MoMA and the Fondation Louis Vuitton and presents a selection of works in myriad mediums, from all six of MoMA’s departments, reflecting the history of the institution and its way Fonssagrives-Penn), Paris, 1950, épreuve au platine-palladium, 1980, 50,5 x 50,2 cm, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Promised Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation © Condé Nast of collecting. The show brings together paintings, sculptures, drawings, prints, photographs, films, media works, performances as well as architecture and design objects, tracing the evolution and scope of the museum’s collection. Etre Moderne features major works by artists including Max Beckmann, Alexander Calder, Paul Cézanne, Marcel Duchamp, Walker Evans, Jasper Johns, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, Gustav Klimt, Yayoi Kusama, René Magritte, Pablo Picasso and Paul Signac. Showing through to March 5th 8 ave Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01 40 69 96 00 Picture Perfect Penn The Grand Palais is hosting a major retrospective devoted to Irving Penn, who is regarded as one of the greatest photographers of the 20th century. Featuring over 240 photographic prints, all produced by the artist himself, and a selection of graphic works, the show takes a look at 70 years of the American artist’s career. The full range of subjects tackled by the photographer are all represented ranging from fashion to the still life, portraits, nudes, street scenes and his iconic Small Trade series photographed at the beginning of the 1950s in Paris, London and New York. His works were marked by simplicity, minimalism and an astonishing rigour from the studio to the darkroom where Penn perfected his unique photographic prints. The show offers a chronological and thematic exploration of his work starting with street scenes from Philadelphia and New York moving onto Europe devastated by war into the portraits and fashion photography. Showing through to January 29th 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 57

Olwen Forest JEWELLERY OF THE STARS Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. MARCHÉ SERPETTE - Allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des Rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday Tel: 01 40 11 96 38 www.olwenforest.com GALERIE TAMÉNAGA IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART Exhibition: 16th of November - 7th of December A Call from the Callas The life and legend of Maria Callas are being played out in an exhibition entitled Maria by Callas marking the 40th anniversary Maria Callas with Marilyn Monroe at the birthday of JFK 1962 Photo © Fonds-de-Dotation-Maria-Callas of the singer’s death. The show, being held at the new musical and cultural venue, La Seine Musicale, brings together photographs, private movies shot in Super 8 film, private recordings of her concerts, letters, rare images of interviews and backstage at her performances as well as stage costumes. There are recordings of interviews, both visual and audio, of Maria Callas and with those that knew her including Alain Delon and Valéry Giscard d’Estaing. Five thousand photographs trace her life from CHEN Jiang-Hong childhood to her early beginnings on stage to the farewell tour MODERN MASTERS: Redon, Bonnard, Dufy, of 1973/1974 as well as her vacations during the jet set years. Kisling, Picasso, Rouault, Soutine, The visit is accompanied by her voice through interviews and Van Dongen, Vlaminck, Buffet... recordings. CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Showing through to December 14th Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Nakamura, 1 Cours de Ile Seguin, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt, 01 74 34 54 00 Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano, Yoshikawa... 18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com 58 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

LITA CABELLUT ARMY OF POETS 17 November - 8 December 2017 BERNARD, 2017 - Mixed media on canvas, 230 x 200 cm - 90.5 x 78.7 in. 62 rue du faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris • T. + 33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 • paris@operagallery.com • operagallery.com NEW YORK · MIAMI · ASPEN · LONDON · PARIS · MONACO · GENEVA · DUBAI · BEIRUT · HONG KONG · SINGAPORE · SEOUL

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions On Beautiful The celebrated photo gallery, Galerie Agathe Gaillard, has re-opened its doors in style with a group exhibition devoted to beauty. Entitled Hommage à la Beauté (Tribute to Beauty), the show brings together myriad works by, among others, Edouard Boubat, Jean-Philippe Charbonnier and Marc Riboud. Diverse types of beauty are represented in the photographs ranging from the beauty of the body to that of nature, of materials like stone, but also another kind of beauty that of mystery, of silence, of being. There is the imposing picture of Bianca Jagger by Erica Lennard, a graceful dervish by Giorgia Fiorio, and an anonymous neckline by Luc Choquer. Agathe Gaillard opened her gallery in the Marais in 1975, the first gallery in France devoted to photography and which showcased and supported the work of major photographers including Henri Cartier- Bresson Bianca Jagger Photo © Erica Lennard; Hermès window Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the Grande window, Spring-Summer 1995, by Leïla Menchari with Christian Renonciat Photo ©Guillaume de Laubier and Hervé Guibert. Today the gallery, under new ownership and directed by Fiona Sanjabi, continues to exhibit the gallery’s historic photographers and vintage prints as well as contemporary photographers. Showing through to November 18th 3 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe (4th), 01 42 77 38 24 Worlds of Dreams The dream-like, highly original and simply beautiful shop windows created by Leïla Menchari for the house of Hermès are being honoured with an exhibition presented by Hermès entitled Hermès à tire-d’aile-Les Mondes de Leïla Menchari at the Grand Palais. “Draw for me your dreams,” requested Annie Beaumel, who was in charge of the store windows for Hermès back in 1961 when Leïla Menchari first came to Hermès. And draw dreams she did from 1978 to 2013 when she would imagine, draw and create the decors of the windows of the celebrated Parisian saddler. Travelling through a series of eight tableaux the visitor can discover the extraordinary and generous universe of Leïla Menchari created with the complicity of artists from all horizons ranging from painters, to sculptors to mosaic artists, stonecutters and more. “I always wanted for it to be authentic, sincere,” she says, “Sometimes I was surrealist, I loved that, but always with real things, things that people could recognise. It had to be at once unexpected, out of the ordinary, surprising, something that dialogued with the passers-by.” From November 8th through to December 3 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17 60 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION GOSCINNY, THE GRAND Les 12 travaux d’Astérix de Goscinny et Uderzo. Distribution DARGAUD FILMS. ©1976 – Dargaud Films Productions – René Goscinny – Albert Uderzo; Lucky Luke ©Lucky comics, 2017; René L a Cinémathèque do what I do.” It was in Buenos Aires where the La Cinémathèque française is home to française is paying Paris-born Goscinny grew up that he discovered one of the finest collections and archives in Goscinny and John Wayne - Fonds d’archives Institut René Goscinny ©Droits réservés; Albert Uderzo et René Goscin - Fonds d’archives Institut René Goscinny ©Droits réservés tribute to the French classics of American cinema like Laurel & Hardy the world devoted to film. It was back in 1936 comic book writer and Buster Keaton. that Henri Langlois, a French film archivist, René Goscinny the author cinephile and a pioneer in film preservation, of amongst other works The exhibition also shows how the created La Cinémathèque française to save Lucky Luke and Asterix, in an characters of Goscinny and his fellow creators, from destruction films, projection machines, exhibition entitled Goscinny among them Uderzo and Sempé continued costumes, posters and other cinematic treasures. and the Cinema, Asterix, Lucky their career on the silver screen through other He would be given an Honorary Oscar in 1974, Luke and Company. The show, being held 40 producers and filmmakers turning characters “for his untiring devotion to the art of film, for years after his death, demonstrates the influence like Asterix and Obelisk, Lucky Luke, Petit Nicolas his massive contributions towards preserving its cinema had on his work as well as taking a look and Iznogoud into international stars. Goscinny historical past and for his unswerving faith in its into the movies that he made himself. was nicknamed Walt Goscinny by his friend future.” Gotlib and today one of the avenues that leads The show underscores how the cinema up to Disneyland Paris is named avenue René Exhibition from October 4th through to and its most mainstream genres like westerns, Goscinny. The exhibition is made up of five March 4th peplums and burlesque, were parodied and sections and takes the visitor on a journey into 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01 71 19 33 33 magnified by a creator who drew inspiration the artist’s life and works. www.cinematheque.fr from his immense knowledge of cinema. Before launching into filmmaking in his own right when he created the Studios Idéfix in 1974, Goscinny was the gagman for Bourvil, the scriptwriter for television dramas for Jean Rochefort and the screenwriter for his friend Pierre Tchernia for cult films like Le Viager and The Holes. With his own films produced at the Studios Idéfix like The Twelve Tasks of Asterix and Lucky Luke, he contributed greatly to the inception of the French school of animated cinema. “I left for the United States with the hope of working for Walt Disney, but Walt Disney didn’t The Twelve Tasks of Asterix by René Goscinny and Albert Uderzo, 1976. René Goscinny and John Wayne in the offices of the know it,” Goscinny once said,” I admire Walt comics magazine Pilote, published in the 58th issue of Pilote on December 1st, 1960. Albert Uderzo and René Goscinny at the Disney, it was his creations that inspired me to soirée for the premiere of Astérix the Gaulois at Maxim’s on November 15th, 1967 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 61

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Day Trip General view of the nave of the Panthéon © Didier Plowy - Centre des monuments nationaux; Panthéon as seen from the rue Soufflot © Benjamin Gavaudo - Centre des monuments nationaux The Life and Times of Marie Curie A n exhibition entitled Marie Curie a Woman in the Panthéon elaborated by Marie Curie and Claudius Regaud, remains, over a century is being held, fittingly, in the Panthéon, paying tribute to the later, the hallmark of the Institut Curie, which relies on this fundamental great savant who was born 150 years ago on November 7th, cornerstone to continue to innovate in the fight against cancer. 1867. The show offers a glimpse into Marie Curie’s personal life as well as a backstage view onto her scientific work. She would receive the Nobel The exhibition is organised by the Musée Curie and the Centre des Prize, twice, in 1903 for Physics (shared with her husband Pierre Curie Monuments Nationaux, which manages the Panthéon. and Antoine Henri Becquerel) and for Chemistry in 1911. Recognised as one of the greatest scholars of her age, she remains today one of the From November 8th through to March 4th, 2018 best-known scientists in the world. She would become, in 1995, the first Place du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00 www.paris-pantheon.fr woman to enter the Pantheon, where eminent personalities are buried in the crypt, on her own merits. The exhibition starts off with a prologue followed by five thematic segments exploring her life and works. A wide panorama of objects and archives have been assembled for the show including scientific instruments, period documents and personal items recounting the family life of Marie Curie and the inner workings of the Institut du Radium, today the Institut Curie. The Institut du Radium was born in 1909 of the will of Marie Curie and the importance of a cause, the fight against cancer. At the time, the Institut du Radium housed the Curie laboratory, under the direction of Marie Curie, devoted to research in Chemistry and Physics and, too, the Pasteur laboratory under the direction of Claudius Regaud dedicated to the biological effects and medical applications of radioactivity. The two scientists proposed a project of development for the Institut du Radium in which research and therapeutic applications would be closely linked. This continuum of research and treatment, 62 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments ARC DE TRIOMPHE world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling PALAIS GARNIER-OPERA DE PARIS The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon lights every hour on the hour from twilight to Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open students and under 25, 7€) information: 08 92 89 the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:00am and on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (7-17€ for adults) guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under depends on how high you go. There is a glass Place de l’Opéra (9th). 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a M° Opéra www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. from 12 to 10pm. PANTHEON M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile www.tour-eiffel.fr An 18th-century monument combining Greek Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, Rousseau, LA CONCIERGERIE Marie Curie and other notables are buried. From NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL La Conciergerie iStockphoto 2017 © Leonid Andronov A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, November 8 through to March 4 Marie Curie, une used as a prison in the Revolution. Although Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is femme au Panthéon, an exhibition devoted to the monument is empty, a HistoPad can be a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in the illustrious scientist, Marie Curie. Jan-March rented to vision detailed 360° reconstitutions. English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm, Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets 30 Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 9€. Free for minutes before closing time. Adults 9€. Combined towers Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm weekdays; Oct- children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. ticket with the Sainte-Chapelle 15€. Children March 10am-5:30pm; Sat-Sun; Jul-Aug until 11 www.paris-pantheon.fr under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. pm on Fri & Sat. Last tickets 45 minutes before 6 pl du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité closing. An on-site interactive display or the M° Cardinal-Lemoine application Jefile lets you envisage the wait for EIFFEL TOWER visiting the towers and to reserve your time. 10€. SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s www.tours-notre-dame-de-paris.fr Located on the highest peak of Paris, the Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10 . M° Cité view from the Sacré Coeur is breath-taking. 64 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Monuments La Conciergerie There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers Apocalypse tapestry © Didier Plowy – Centre des monuments nationaux - Photo de Presse SAINTE-CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Jan- March 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time.10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité CHÂTEAU D’ANGERS This remarkable citadel punctuated by 17 shale and limestone towers is a massive medieval THE TUILERIES GARDEN structure whose fortifications stretch out for nearly 500 meters. Construction began in the 13th This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways century and the château is home to the Tapestry of the Apocalypse, a vast and major piece for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers of medieval art. In the 14th and 15th centuries the Dukes of Anjou held court here. Today, it is a place for a promenade between the Pyramide managed by the Centre des Monuments Nationaux. From November 15 through to February 11 du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Apocalypse : histoire intime d’un chef d’oeuvre, an exhibition exploring the Apocalypse tapestry, a Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and unique ensemble in its genre, the civil and religious uses of wall hangings and their conservation. Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in Daily 10am-5:30pm, closed Nov 11 & 23. 9€. www.chateau-angers.fr/en these refreshing gardens. 2 Promenade du Bout du Monde, 49100 Angers, 02 41 86 48 77. SNCF train from Paris Gare Montparnasse. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 65

Address Book ARTS&ATTRACTIONS For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris AREAS & MARKETS 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. giant hemispheric dome that shows films in Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 Paris Flea Market yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen Opera Gallery children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), or Clignancourt from its location north of Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary famous flea market, offering everything from artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Disneyland Paris used books and leather jackets to precious Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at series of different markets. Don’t be put off by to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to ATTRACTIONS Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt) Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua) Flight Experience Paris Discover the world of the sea at this delightful You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the Carré Rive Gauche aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a This group of antique dealers and art galleries until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna cruise and land. You can choose your route works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces Ballon de Paris and flying time from several different flight throughout the year. Many of the galleries are Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.45.86.04.04. specialised in the decorative arts while the venues measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere. M° Quai de la Gare offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Grande Arche Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the This stunning monument listed as 20th century rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th) weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day. heritage is situated in the heart of the business Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition ART GALLERIES (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on Galerie Bartoux Elysées the 35th floor. A restaurant and a sandwich shop Canal Saint-Martin A contemporary art gallery on the Champs- are all on the agenda. Daily 9:30am-6:30pm. 1 parvis This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide Elysées presenting paintings and sculptures by de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops internationally renowned artists. Open seven M° La Défense Grande Arche lining the sides of this functioning canal which days a week. 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai Le Manoir de Paris 01.42.89.41.21. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République The urban legends of Paris come to life in Galerie Olwen Forest Catacombes de Paris this haunted manor house and listed historic Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels The catacombs of Paris house the remains of monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells several million Parisians whose bones were 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli transferred to these underground quarries from Paris Story and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. A fun and educational way to discover the city and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story The visit is not recommended for pregnant of Paris through an exceptional audiovisual of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ women, people with heart or respiratory problems presentation. Daily 10am-6pm, projection Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the or suffering from claustrophobia and children every hour on the hour. 11bis rue Scribe (9th), two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 01.42.66.62.06. M° Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt Parc Zoologique de Paris (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural Galerie Tamenaga Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th), environments some 1,000 animals, birds, Impressionist and modern paintings by masters 01.43.22.47.63. M° Denfert-Rochereau mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie representing 180 species. Entrance located at Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route international art including a romantic ensemble science and industry museum houses a wide de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25. by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo. BALLON DE PARIS | Attractions CANAL SAINTMARTIN | Attractions 66 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Address Book Pavillons de Bercy to Valmondois, then change for Auvers-sur-Oise Musée National du Château de Malmaison Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland (about 1 hr 15 min) This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Chartres garden and a museum devoted to rides and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm- The town of Chartres is known for its splendid attractions found in amusement fairs from 5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave cathedral with magnificent stained glass 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro windows. You can also visit the Centre 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château International du Vitrail, a workshop and museum BOAT CRUISES devoted to stained glass which is unique in GARDENS Bateaux Parisiens Europe. SNCF from Gare Montparnasse (about 1 hr); last return train to Paris about 9pm. Jardin d’Acclimatation Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour A traditional French children’s park in the scenic on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Château de Fontainebleau Bois de Boulogne replete with rides, exhibitions, Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la A residence of the French kings from the 12th to Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro pavilions, a puppet theatre, a riding academy, the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its restaurants and picnic grounds. Daily 10am-6pm. Bateaux-Mouches superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. Wed- Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne (16th), The legendary company has been offering Mon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes 01.40.67.90.85. M° Les Sablons cruises on the Seine river for decades. Double- Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 deck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station. Jardin des Tuileries monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. Château de Versailles This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s place for a promenade between the Pyramide du superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures Batobus 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to are among the jewels set in these refreshing Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12 Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde Vedettes du Pont Neuf Château et Domaine de Chantilly Jardin du Luxembourg These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at composed of both English and French gardens, a Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis River Limousine marked “Senlis” to the château. and remote control boats while children can a Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board Château de Vaux le Vicomte puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a This unique estate with its 17th century castle de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37 and formal French gardens is one of the most GUIDED TOURS beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French Vedettes de Paris L’Open Tour Paris gardens, punctuated by fountains and water Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Special theme cruises also available including 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90 a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars Giverny Paris Authentic Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this This is a unique Parisian concept for personal DAY TRIPS sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet Auvers sur Oise arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris The French countryside and the village where immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you Van Gogh spent the last months of his life are to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. for an unusual discovery of their city. Enjoy Paris by just 27 km from Paris. In town you can visit a 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare day or night, champagne in Montmartre, historic 17th century chateau and the Maison Van Gogh to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus landmarks, luxurious places, secret neighbourhoods, (open Mar through Oct). SNCF from Gare du Nord to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21 tailor-made tours. 06.64.50.44.19 © Grande Arche - iStock GRANDE ARCHE | Attractions BATEAUXMOUCHES | Boat Cruises w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 67

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Address Book Paris City Vision center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. collection covering the entire 20th century. Tue- 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries M° Jussieu Sun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro Retro Tour Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and This cultural institution located on the banks Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic building, the centre’s programme includes and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two special exhibitions, art and trade shows and world ranging from 17th century balloons to the people, are available and you can also customize designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), Concorde. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de Paris- your tour. 01.85.39.07.07. www.retro-tour.com Le Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly MUSEUMS & FONDATIONS Le Grand Musée du Parfum to the museum. Centre Georges Pompidou The world of perfume unfolds in this museum Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides France’s top modern art museum, with some devoted to perfume and the art of perfume This historic monument houses a superb 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. Wed- making, one of France’s leading industries. military museum while Napoleon’s impressive Mon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Located in a beautiful private mansion, the tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau museum takes the visitor on a historical and du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a sensorial quest. The visit is highly interactive Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine collection of more than 500,000 works, objects with videos and devices used to try out the and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum fragrances and scents found along the way century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, which include many of the raw materials used in rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne while the temporary exhibits are housed in the perfume making. Tues-Sun 10:30am-7pm. 73 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), Musée Cernuschi left wing of the Pavillon d’About. The museum The beautifully appointed 19th century private is composed of three Galeries: Galerie des 01.42.65.25.44. M° Miromesnil mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Moulages, Galerie des Peintures and Galeries Mona Bismarck American Center Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine. Mon, The center is positioned to be the premier devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun venue for American art and artists in the cultural collections are housed on the first floor while the 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions. et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro international audiences in a compelling dialogue Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), Espace Dali with American culture of the 20th and 21st 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau In the heart of Montmartre, the only permanent centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), see the website Musée Cognacq-Jay exhibition, in France, entirely devoted to the for opening hours: www.monabismarck.org This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly master of Surrealism, and more particularly to his to art of the 18th century with the exception of a Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme sculptures and engravings. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument Musée des Arts Décoratifs located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. A semi-private museum with a fabulous 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail collection of decorative arts-furniture, Fondation Louis Vuitton Musée Grévin housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle historical and modern French and international is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges Exhibition spaces display permanent collections sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais Musée des Arts et Métiers 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific Musée Guimet built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, and technological discoveries and inventions This museum houses one of the most extensive Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. Tue- over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s Institut du Monde Arabe Sun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG | Gardens MUSÉE DE L’ARMÉE  HÔTEL DES INVALIDES | Museums & Fondations 68 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Address Book at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary thousands of animal species. Other galleries house 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), the rich collections of paleontology, comparative 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries Musée en Herbe and exhibition halls are surrounded by the A superb museum for children (and adults, Musée du Louvre botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The One of the world’s most important art collections, zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with including the Mona Lisa, European painting Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. books, games and educational toys for all age and sculpture, large-format 19th century French Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 11 Conti - Monnaie de Paris Musée de l’Homme 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli This beautiful building on the Seine was home The national anthropological museum houses to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory Musée du Parfum - Fragonard to fashion medals, official decorations and and anthropological collections offering a Discover the world of perfume and perfume collector’s coins. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. glimpse into the human being, his complex making in this delightful museum operated by 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf nature and evolution from the inception of his Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume appearance on the face of the planet to the and essence maker ensconced in a superb Palais Galliera present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is Formerly the 19th century Palais de la Duchesse Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat de Galliera, this is the city’s fashion museum. (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra 01.56.52.86.00. M° léna/Alma-Marceau Musée de l’Orangerie In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac Palais de la Découverte completely renovated museum allows the visitor An extensive and dramatically displayed This museum and cultural centre geared for both to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, children and adults is devoted to the sciences Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops Picasso, Derain, Soutine). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat Musée du Vin Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural (1st), 01.44.77.80.07. M° Concorde 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau center exhibiting the rich and varied collections Musée d’Orsay of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest Palais de Tokyo A dramatically renovated former train station limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the Musée Marmottan Monet Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, last tickets minds of all generations. This is the only museum A beautiful and delightful museum in a private at 5pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all mansion housing the world’s largest collection 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino events are open to the public. From 12 noon to of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Musée Jacquemart-André (last tickets at 5:30pm), Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette Petit Palais André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose Musée Picasso stunning collection of furniture and art includes The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, an Italian section with works by Mantegna, renovated 1900 building. The extensive drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat permanent collection offers a panorama of art beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 from antiquity to the early 20th century. trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 Saint-Sébastien - Froissart and today houses a permanent collection that Musée Rodin PRACTICAL INFORMATION boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his Le Kiosque Théâtre and Utrillo. The charming museum is also pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private Offers tickets for shows on the same day at surrounded by three gardens dedicated to mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. half price. Seats are available for most shows in Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm (last tickets 5:15pm), late theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 5pm. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on Musée de la Vie Romantique A natural history museum famed for its Grande the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Musée Marmottan Monet, Galerie Bettencourt ©Yves Forestier A lovely 19th century home and garden with Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS | Museums & Fondations MUSÉE MARMOTTAN MONET | Museums & Fondations w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 69

The Guide DINING Tapas-Style Dining | Fusion Fare | Bistros | French Cuisine | Italian Fare Enjoy tapas-style dishes at Wim à Table (opposite page) 70 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

DINING Restaurants Casual Chic Like all great cities, Paris is a mosaic of intriguingly different neighbourhoods, and even though it’s compact there are still parts of the town that remain little known to travellers. One of these is the delightful Batignolles district of the northern 17th arrondissement. It’s a dense, cosy, lively old quartier with several beautiful parks, many cafes and some very good restaurants. The latest is Wim à Table, with a small-plates format that Flemish chef Wim Van Gorp launched after working as chef at New York-based French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Paris restaurant Market for many years. This is casual dining at its best, and it’s as good an address to go to with a group of friends, as it is on your own. The standard menus include dishes like steak Americaine, the Belgian version of steak tartare, ham croquettes, and Bern sausage, while a chalkboard proposes a selection of seasonal small bites that change almost daily. These might include a roasted duck leg with herring eggs, a marinated courgette salad, cepe mushrooms in a light vinaigrette and a pleasantly pucker lemon cream for dessert. Service is young and charming, and the brief selection of wines by the glass is well-chosen. – Alexander Lobrano Wim à Table 45 rue des Moines (17th), 01 42 29 10 41 West Meets East Looking for a memorable place for a meal near the Gare du Nord and the Gare de l’Est? Head to Yikou, a stylish restaurant for a feast of imaginative Franco-Asian dishes created by a Frenchman and a Chinese man who share a reciprocal love for the cooking of one another’s countries. This light, delicious food fascinates by using French ingredients in Chinese preparations like dim sum or bao (steamed rice buns), which are here used for sandwiches served with a garnish of delicious frites made from rice instead of potatoes. Among the stand-out dim sum are the Lao Breizh, a succulent ravioli stuffed with lobster, seitan (wheat protein) and seaweed, the Babao Truffes, which is filled with free-range chicken water chestnuts and black truffle oil from the Perigord, and the Chasu Forestier, an earthy bao filled with stewed wild boar garnished with rice wine and cranberries. For dessert try the Madame Sago, dim sum filled with coconut cream seasoned with crushed Speculoos (Belgian spice cookies). – A.L Yikou 49 rue de l’Aqueduc (10th), 09 83 76 44 64 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 71

DINING Restaurants Contemporary Bistro Fare Tucked away in one of the hippest streets in the trendy 10th arrondissement, one of the younger and livelier parts of Paris, Restaurant Eels, the new restaurant named for chef Adrien Ferrand’s signature dish of smoked eel with Granny Smith apple, is the hit table of the season in Paris. The reason you’ll have to book a few days in advance to land a table here, though, is chef Adrien Ferrand’s fresh and stunningly inventive contemporary French bistro cooking. Ferrand previously cooked at KGB, the annex table to chef William Ledeuil’s excellent Saint-Germain-des-Prés restaurant Ze Kitchen Galerie, and although some touches of Ledeuil’s love of Asian ingredients and techniques comes through, the young chef’s style is all his own. The brief menu changes regularly, but runs to dishes like a luscious tuna carpaccio with tomato marmalade and ponzu sauce, succulent red Sicilian shrimp in a light saffron bisque with lightly steamed vegetables, and a vanilla millefeuille with homemade apricot jam. – A.L. Restaurant Eels 27 rue d’Hauteville (10th), 01 42 28 80 20 Wallet-Friendly French Fare For anyone who’s craving an exciting experience of outstanding contemporary French cooking without a major wound to the wallet, L’Oiseau Rive Gauche is an excellent choice. Young chef Maxime Laurenson’s cooking dazzles with its subtle originality and technical precision, and service is absolutely charming, too. Located steps from the French National Assemblée in one of the chicest neighbourhoods in Paris, this calm dining room has a pleasantly clubby atmosphere at noon when many politicians dine here, and a more intimate ambiance in the evening, when it is popular with well- dressed local couples. The short menu changes regularly to feature seasonal produce and the talented young chef’s latest creations, but a vegetarian tasting menu, are always offered alongside the regular prix-fixe menus and à la carte choices. Stopping by recently for dinner, we were delighted by an amuse bouche of roasted ear of baby corn, a succulent wink at autumn, and this theme continued with starters of cepe mushrooms with liquorice and hazelnuts and a plump oyster intriguingly brightened with quince extract. Main courses were outstanding, too, including cod with pistachios and verbena and roasted pigeon garnished with beets, black currants and Loiseau Rive Gauche © RomainHerlin geranium. Since the cheese tray here comes from Bernard Anthony in Alsace, one of the greatest cheese mongers in France, we tucked into a fine selection before desserts of jasmine cream with blackberries and hazelnuts and a superb composition of smoked chocolate flavoured with hay. – A.L. L’Oiseau Rive Gauche 5 rue de Bourgogne (7th), 01 45 51 79 42 72 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

DINING Restaurant Advertorial SANTOOR Indian Cuisine / Paris 8th This charming restaurant offers fine halal gourmet Indian cuisine. Specializing in tandoori (Indian barbecue) and curries, both spicy and mild, served in beautiful surroundings with silk paintings and antique-style carved wooden crafts. Two minutes walk from the Champs-Elysées. Open every day, Mondays-Saturdays for lunch and dinner, and Sundays for dinner. 30 rue Marbeuf, Paris 8th Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: +33 (0)1 42 56 33 18 www.restaurant-indien-santoor.fr HARD ROCK CAFÉ American, 9th The Hard Rock Café Paris offers more than just great food and service. Discover authentic memorabilia from rock ‘n’ roll legends covering the walls, 21 screens showing videos, and an unbelievable sound system. In this restaurant and famous cocktail bar all is done to give the international clientele an American experience. Mon-Sun L&D. 14 blvd Montmartre, Paris 9th Metro: Richelieu-Drouot Tel: +33 (0)1 53 24 60 00 www.hardrock.com 74 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

DINING Restaurants A New Take on French Cuisine Sophisticated service, contemporary design and a talented young chef set the tone for a fine dining experience at Le Baudelaire. Overlooking the courtyard of Le Burgundy Hotel in the chic first arrondissement, just off Rue Saint-Honoré, Le Baudelaire brings a new take on contemporary French cuisine thanks to chef Guillaume Goupil. Using seasonal produce, Goupil has taken traditional dishes and transformed them into beautifully presented dishes that are both appealing to the eyes and of course to the taste. The menu includes a refreshing starter with lightly grilled watermelon served with a feta cheese gazpacho and a zesty lime granita in a shot glass, while mains include a roasted duck breast served with corn and buckwheat spaghetti drizzled with a paprika sauce. The service here is attentive and the chef welcomingly caters to any dietary restrictions. S.I. Le Baudelaire 8 rue Duphot (1st), 01 42 60 34 12 Fancy Bistro Dining Foodies visiting the City of Light will be happy to discover Les Fauves. Winning the Food Lovers Welcome Awards by CIWY award, this neo bistro serves high quality cuisine at attractive bistro prices. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and brunch on Sundays and public holidays, this restaurant focuses on serving fresh food using local and organic produce. In a relaxed space peppered with green plants, enjoy organic salmon marinated in wasabi, served with pickles and cucumber, and beef tartare served with hand-cut fries and vegetable chips. Vegetarians aren’t left out in the cold either with dishes created with veggies in mind including a hearty organic quinoa dish tossed with a medley of vegetables and seasoned with Ras el hanout, a North African spice mix. - S.I. Les Fauves 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01 72 38 58 92 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 75

DINING Restaurant Advertorial LE BISTROT DU LOUCHÉBEM LE LOUCHÉBEM Traditional French cuisine Traditional French cuisine 47 rue des Prouvaires, Paris 1st 431 rue Berger, Paris 1st 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 04 10 4Tel: +33 (0)1 42 33 12 99 4Unlimited carpaccio: 25.90€ 4Louchébem means butcher 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4www.lebistrotdulouchebem.fr 4Closed Sundays 4www.le-louchebem.fr Succulent meats from the butcher are This quintessential les Halles butcher’s to be savoured here. Inventive, refined restaurant proffers a full gamut of meat dishes. appetizers including crispy thyme-flavoured Camembert are worth the detour. The pot roast salad is superb and the unique The calf’s liver is a sheer delight and the all you can eat platter of beef, roast ham and ambiance warm and full of charm. leg of lamb at 26,90€ is not to be missed. WEPLER BREAKFAST IN AMERICA Traditional French cuisine The "Original" American Diner in Paris! 4BIA 1: 17 rue des Ecoles, Paris 5th 414 Place de Clichy, Paris 18 / Metro: Place de Clichy th 4BIA 2: 4 rue Malher, Paris 4th 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 22 53 24 4Open 7 days a week - 8:30am - 11pm 4Daily until 12:30 am 4Lunch menus, Mon-Fri, 10.95€ & 8.95€ (students) 4Lunch & Dinner menu 30€ 4Sunday Brunch served all day 4Set-menu 24.50€ 4www.breakfast-in-america.com 4English spoken 4www.wepler.com For a traditional American Diner serving A full menu for all your lunches and dinners: classic comfort food - including real burgers one of the finest French Onion soups in the and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy capital, seafood plates or traditional house pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), dishes as Fish from the market or Andouillette plus fresh milkshakes... and much more! AAAAA , our restaurant has something for Hand in this ad to receive 10% off when you everyone . order Breakfast Anytime off our menu! 76 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

DINING Italians Do It Better Restaurants If you really want to know where the wild things are, go to dinner at Pink Mamma, the hugely popular new Italian restaurant in a beautifully renovated former hospital in the frisky Pigalle neighbourhood. Spread across four floors, this lively but romantic restaurant also includes a speakeasy-style bar named No Entry in its basement and a gorgeous glassed walled dining room on the top floor with great views over the neighbourhood. If a variety of pastas and pizzas are both on the menu here, the specialty is charcoal-grilled beef, which comes with sides like cheese polenta, sautéed baby spinach, corn or green salad. Those who prefer seafood will also find grilled octopus on the menu, and the best way to begin here is with a couple of the sharing plates, maybe arancini (breaded deep-fried rice balls), some stracciatella (the creamy middle of burrata cheese smoked) and some Parma ham that’s aged for two years. Next, the Sardinian fregola pasta with baby squid is delicious, or share a pizza, the puckish named Regina (Queen) de la Night is topped with mozzarella, Tuscan ham, Portobello mushrooms and olives. Portions are generous here, but if you still want dessert, the panna cotta with peach compote with lavender is original and refreshing. Pink Mamma is open Pink Mamma © Joann Pai daily, though note that it has a no reservations policy, so go early to avoid a wait. – A.L. Pink Mamma 20bis rue de Douai (9th) xxxxx w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 77

Address Book DINING For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris DINING ON THE SEINE France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de made foie gras or the warm goat cheese salad. l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10. M° Pyramides Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French (€€€) 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€) river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily This charming restaurant serves two of Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€) departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country and champagne. French-raised duck is served offers up sourced market-based gastronomic music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a There is a superb selection of champagnes as weekly basis but dishes may include a medley Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€) well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), of Saint Jacques with leeks and candied lemon Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards for starters and marinated cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L & D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the Champeaux - Brasserie (€€) seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€) free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails A stunning 18th-century room offers a choices can include smoked salmon to start and as with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro soup as well as a selection of marinated raw (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€) fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up Le Louchébem - Bistro (€) gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€) district, this establishment is currently in the menu includes noble products and dishes that The latest offering from French chef Jean- hands of the fourth generation of the same have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. François Piège sees carnivores treated to the family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an Enjoy an appetizer of crayfish followed by poultry best steak in town. Black Market beef from authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here with zucchini flowers, then cheese and dessert. Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully are only some of the cuts found on the menu 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles AROUND LOUVRE alongside cocktails created by the talented trio Le Lulli - Classic French (€€) & PALAIS ROYAL (1st, 2nd) behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially This delightful restaurant located in the Grand for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€) 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by garden setting. Recent offerings included a superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up La Cuisine de l’E7 - Contemporary (€€€) pea soup flavoured with mint and served with and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs Two minutes away from the magnificent peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, opera house is where you can enjoy seasonal served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri contemporary cuisine at Hotel Edouard 7’s 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. restaurant. Dishes include a roasted goats M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre M° Richelieu-Drouot cheese salad seasoned with caramelised fig and Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€) honey and salmon tartar served with buckwheat Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€) crepes. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), Fine contemporary French cuisine can be Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, savoured in this one-star restaurant with an 01.42.61.56.90. M˚ Opéra friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€) beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€) Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de This casual restaurant offers up traditional French with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal mackerel in white wine with grain mustard Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€) dressing while a nice main is the roasted free- Le Bistrot de Louchébem - Classic French (€) This is the place to taste one of France’s finest range chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the superb quality await in this restaurant established Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of staff will suggest a list of starters like the house- in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner. ©Bateaux Parisiens - Visit In CANARD & CHAMPAGNE | Classic French (2nd) BATEAUX PARISIENS | Classic French (7th) 78 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

DINING Address Book to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is historical monument surrounds you as you Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd LE MARAIS (3rd, 4th) 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Bofinger - Brasserie (€€) 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€) Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€) decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, two- big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally star chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine Breakfast in America - American (€€) Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), For a traditional American Diner serving classic 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel comfort food - including real burgers and Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€) Taokan - Chinese (€€€) breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes southwestern French specialties in this this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent and much more. Receive 10% off when you order contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual dim sum is among the offerings while starters breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. tasty herb salad. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€) Mº Sèvres Babylone 01.42.84.18.36. M° Saint-Sulpice In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€) Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€) Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively with marvelous wall paintings and a glass- restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles walled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel Mº Saint-Paul Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€) 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie & LES INVALIDES (7th) Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€) gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves 58 Tour Eiffel - Classic French (€€) finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a QUARTIER LATIN steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared & SAINT-GERMAIN (5th, 6th) well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€) This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€) 01.45.55.20.04. Mº Ecole Militaire harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant A Paris institution from another era, now with Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€) vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut only one star, but still offering its famous Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of numbered pressed duck and an absolutely half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), Mº Maubert-Mutualité like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€) 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€) Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€) This charming bistro located in one of the oldest serving southwestern French cuisine, including This gastronomic gem is a very expensive neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des Fossés- wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most Café de Flore - Bistro (€€) Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€) spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, The legendary café made famous in the 1950s Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above. Le Restaurant du Palais Royal ©FBaron LE RESTAURANT DU PALAIS ROYAL | Contemporary (1st) L’AMBROISIE | Haute Cuisine (4th) w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 79

DINING Address Book L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€) choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed Le Safran - Gourmet (€€€) The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Fine French gastronomy and international Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac Collectionneur. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€) (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles Le Restaurant du Cinq Codet - Classic French (€€) Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée Enjoy savoury and authentic cuisine in a warm serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On Les Confidences du San Régis - French (€€€) atmosphere in this restaurant serving classic the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few French cuisine. The menu revolves around the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées seasons and includes homemade desserts. A snack des Champs-Elysées. On the first floor, the five cosy is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy menu is served everyday throughout the day. Mon- dining rooms is decorated in the “Second Empire” winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating Sat L& D, Sun, L only, snack menu in the evening. refined style. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) glass roof guests are invited to sample French 5 rue Louis Codet (7th), 01.53.85.15.60. M° Ecole Militaire dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€) millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€) This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€) Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and produce and products are used to prepare touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, refined fare that changes with the seasons. seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau Mº Alma-Marceau terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/ Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€) Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. AROUND THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES (8th) Chef Adrien Trouilloud serves an authentic and Mº Alma Marceau 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€) refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€) An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding This charming Peruvian restaurant serves Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star sunroof ceiling. Mon-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L only. up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 17 ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , M° Franklin D. Roosevelt dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil Monsieur - French (€€€€) ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like 39V - Contemporary (€€€) This contemporary hotel restaurant serves jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the authentic French cuisine inspired by the and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, countryside. The menu changes every month, Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), with a different region celebrated and served up 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Yeeels - Contemporary (€€€) cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V This chic and trendy bar and restaurant offers 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V up fresh and inventive fare and both classic Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€) and highly original cocktails in an elegant Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€) Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain atmosphere. For starters try the refreshing The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful gazpacho or asparagus with Parmesan cheese Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country dishes. The menu and restaurant have been and radishes. Main dishes can include salmon cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the with wild rice or a filet of Black Angus beef while with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s cheesecake and a raspberry based pastry are 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave stars of the dessert menu. Daily L&D. 24 ave Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€) des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V George V (8th), 01.42.88.75.75. M° George V Next door to the competition, the caviar shop Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€) and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is AROUND OPÉRA GARNIER in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la adjacent to the museum of the same name. The & PIGALLE (9th, 10th, 18th) Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine menu changes with the seasons and can include Bouillon Chartier - Classic French (€) Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€) a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed The mythical Parisian eatery where you The beautiful dining room looks out over the by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of share a table with students, artists or elegant hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. day enjoy classics like hard-boiled eggs with and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent M° Villiers mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€) a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€) pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Café Pouchkine - Café (€) Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the cuisine using remarkable products. For a Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), famous Moscow establishment, located in the fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau Printemps department store serves and sells Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner. LASSERRE | Classic French (8th) LE SAFRAN | Gourmet (8th) 80 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

DINING Address Book traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€) décor. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf French dishes with a contemporary twist using Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€) Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent Septime - Classic French (€€€) regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne Traditional French fare featuring inventive market- 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled based cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut Makassar - Contemporary (€€) with traditional French pastries like éclairs and is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good and products like the Banka trout from the Basque French cuisine with seasonal products. Free reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€) Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a AROUND MONTPARNASSE (13th, 14th, 15th) Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€) contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€) This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel great view of the famous opera neighbourhood This is the place to go for fabulous seafood serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques one of the best and most eclectic selections of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, Wepler - Brasserie (€) include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some BELLEVILLE (19th, 20th) Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€) nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais AROUND BASTILLE (11th, 12th) delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved Blue Elephant - Thai (€€€) (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€) (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up spices, fruits and other goods direct from delicious traditional French cuisine. You can Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€) Bangkok. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil East Mamma - Italian (€) 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. salad while main courses include Black Angus steak This welcoming restaurant serves up authentic Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles with a pepper sauce. The establishment in known and seasonal Italian food in an inviting atmosphere for its fine selection of pizzas and there are plenty Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€) with an open kitchen. The pizzas are baked in a of choices for vegetarians. Daily B, L & D, brunch One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves wood fire oven and the homemade pasta dishes is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared can be ordered for one or for four and are served Bagnolet, 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and in individual copper pans. Daily L&D. 133 rue du Fbg champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri SUBURBS NOT TOO FAR FROM PARIS Saint-Antoine (11th), 01.43.41.32.15. M° Ledru-Rollin L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€) Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€) A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant TROCADÉRO & PORTE MAILLOT (16th, 17th) This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the Saint- in the Gare de Lyon train station serving Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€) Ouen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French classic French fare including lobster salad with A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily crystal manufacturer serving a contemporary and and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), classic cuisine conceived by Guy Martin of four of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon appetisers, four mains and four desserts that change 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€) monthly. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations only. 11 Place ReminiSens - Classic French (€€€€) A new ownership and a new décor have come des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€) gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. establishment serves up traditional French fare This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille the secrets of the French court at your table. Three Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced Ober Mamma - Italian (€) original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can gastronomic theme menus revolving around the Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna Château de Versailles stop Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SEPTIME | Classic French (11th) MAKASSAR | Contemporary (17th) w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 81

The Guide By Sandra Iskander ENTERTAINMENT Concerts | Shows | Jazz Festival | Musicals | Nightclubs | Cabarets | Gentlemen’s Clubs Yazz Ahmed Credit Giulietta Verdon-Roe Catch Yazz Ahmed in concert at the Blue Note Festival (opposite page) 82 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

ENTERTAINMENT Shows Singin’ in the Rain While the Théâtre du Châtelet is closed for renovations, the famous theatre is taking its productions to the Grand Palais, one of the city’s most iconic exhibition halls, which is known for welcoming French fashion house Chanel for their seasonal fashion shows. From the 28th of this month through to the 11th of January, the Grand Palais will be transformed into an extraordinary stage, welcoming the cast of Singin’ in the Rain, the musical based on the cult movie of the same name. Directed by Robert Carsen, the production is performed in English with French surtitles, and brilliantly brings the well-known story of movie-making in the 20s to the glass monument. Grand Palais 3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17 Singin’in the rain © Sylvain GRIPOIX www.gripoix.com; an Morrison - ® Exile Productions 2017 Jazz Nights The Blue Note Festival is back for a new edition, celebrating jazz with concerts taking place between the 14th and the 19th of the month at three of the city’s favourite concert halls. Van Morrison (pictured above), Miles Mosey and Yazz Ahmed are only some of the artists performing, bringing old school jazz and the new sounds of underground jazz to the French capital. Visit www.bluenotefestival.fr for the full programme. Tickets at Fnac. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 83

ENTERTAINMENT Shows A Night at the Opera Giuseppe Verdi’s last opera comes alive on the stage of the Opéra Bastille. Directed by Dominique Pitsoiset, Falstaff, the three act opera tells the story of Falstaff and his ploy to get access to the money of two wealthy married women, and what ensues is a comical tale of revenge and love. The opera is performed in Italian with French and English surtitles, and is playing out through to the 16th of November. Opéra Bastille Place de la Bastille (12th), 08 92 89 90 90 Free Entertainment Christmas has come early with Showtime in Paris’s buy one get one free deal. Through to the 12th Falstaff 12.13 ® Elena Bauer; Frecnh Cancan © Moulin Rouge® - S.Bertrand V of the month, over 20 venues around the French capital are offering visitors the opportunity to take in the best shows for next to nothing. From sexy cabarets to stand-up comedy shows, you can go and take in the latest show with your chéri or best friend for the price of one. On the agenda is the Totally Crazy cabaret at Crazy Horse, the world- famous Moulin Rouge show and the talented comic Olivier Giraud performing his one-man show, How to Become Parisian in One Hour, at the Théâtre des Nouveautés. Head to www.showtimeinparis.com for the full list of venues and shows that are taking part in this generous offer. 84 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

iin n NOVEMBER 28 2017 – JANUARY 11 2018 CHATELET-THEATRE.COM the he 01 40 28 28 40 Rain R ain Musical director AT THE Gareth Valentine GRAND PALAIS Director Robert Carsen Choreographer Stephen Mear Costume Designer Anthony Powell Set Designer Tim Hatley Dramaturge Ian Burton Lighting Designers Robert Carsen Giuseppe Di Iorio Orchestre Pasdeloup Design: Studio Philippe Apeloig 2017 Screenplay BETTY COMDEN and ADOLPH GREEN Songs NACIO HERB BROWN and ARTHUR FREED Based on the classic Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer film, by special arrangement with Warner Bros. Theatre Ventures, Inc. Music published by EMI (Original Movie Choreography by Gene Kelly and Stanley Donen) Produced by Arrangement with Maurice Rosenfield, Lois F. Rosenfield and Cindy Pritzker, Inc. In agreement with Drama - Paris (www.dramaparis.com) on behalf of Music Theatre International(MTI) - New York (www.mtishows.com) # singin

ENTERTAINMENT Concerts Live in Concert Wicked Game singer American jazz singer Dee English singer-songwriter American rocker Marilyn Chris Isaak is bringing his Dee Bridgewater is filling James Blunt’s The Afterlove Manson is also bringing his The sultry voice to the French Paris with her soulful tunes. Tour is coming to the City Heaven Upside Down Tour to capital. Performing at the Performing on the 7th and 8th of Love. Performing on the Paris on the 27th of November. legendary Olympia, the of November, the Grammy 7th of the month, Blunt will The singer-songwriter will be Chris Isaak DR; Dee Bridgewater DR; james Blunt DR singer-songwriter will be Award-winning singer- be performing songs from performing songs from his latest performing a one-night songwriter will be joined by his latest studio album, The album and of course rocking his only show on the 2nd of Memphis Soulphony. Afterlove. signature glam rock look. November. La Cigale Zénith Paris – La Villette AccorHotels Arena L’Olympia 120 blvd de Rochechouart (18th), 211 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 8 blvd de Bercy (12th), 28 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01 49 25 89 99 01 44 52 54 56 01 75 44 04 00 08 92 68 33 68 All tickets at Fnac 86 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

ADVERTORIAL As tourists or expats in Paris comedian. situation in the City of Light. there are some quirks we have Having experienced the Entirely performed in English, all noticed among the Parisians, cultural differences between it is a great show for everyone, the way they march to their the Parisians and Americans including Parisians who will destinations, their constant while in Florida, and having no doubt get a good laugh at pouting and the way they observed for himself the themselves. order at restaurants. Olivier tourists of all nationalities in It is not an easy feat to master Giraud has too, noticed that Paris, he decided to not shy the Parisian attitude but Olivier the Parisians are unique in their has put together a fail-proof away from the hard-hitting behaviour, and has decided to guideline of French etiquette questions of how one becomes bring all those idiosyncrasies that will leave you embracing to light. a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a the oh la la factor. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier Non-stop laughter from a real café? In the metro, what do you moved to Paris to study Parisian guaranteed to leave do if you see an older lady or a hotel management and after you wanting more. graduating he moved to pregnant woman? And how do the Unites States where he you behave in a cab? This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to managed a restaurant of a Putting together a one man enjoy Paris and the Parisians! 5-star hotel. After four years, show, How to become Parisian and many soul-searching in one hour?, the stand-up Rated nights, he decided to return comic will leave you rolling BEST THEATER to France and follow his in your seat from laughter real dream of becoming a and 100% prepared for any PERFORMANCE SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH EVERY THURSDAY, FRIDAY AND SATURDAY @ 7PM / SUNDAY @ 6PM Théâtre des Nouveautés Tickets at www.oliviergiraud.com (theater with air conditioning) or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 24 Blvd Poissonnière (9th) Not recommended for kids Metro: Grands Boulevards under 16 years old CHICOSMAMBO TUTU Choreography : Philippe Lafeuille PRIX DU PUBLIC AVIGNON w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 87

ENTERTAINMENT Bars Charity in a Cocktail Bar 228, the cosy lounge at Le Meurice hotel is helping fight children malnutrition in Africa and Asia one cocktail at a time. Head barman William Oliveri has created three different cocktails, one alcoholic and two mocktails, using spirulina, the superfood that is high in protein. For every cocktail sold a part of the profits will go to supporting Antenna France, an association helping children suffering from malnutrition, with the proceeds of one cocktail gifting two children a spirulina cure for six weeks. The drinks are available until the 31st of December, and with the tequila- based El Sombrero with a dash of spirulina, you can get your shot of superfood at cocktail hour as well as help children in need. Bar 228 Le Meurice Hotel 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 53 10 66 Cocktails and Cabarets Cocktail Spiruline at Le Meurice © Pierre Monetta Fall into Nolinski Hotel’s cabaret dream when the Grand Salon welcomes a line-up of extraordinary performers. One night per month the intimate space welcomes sexy burlesque dancers, singers and even a fire eater to intoxicate guests with their talents, and this month the 10th of November marks the date for the L’Esprit Cabaret au Grand Salon. Burlesque dancers Scarlett Diamond and Froufrou d’Absinthe, and singer Brian Scott Bagley are only some of the names promising you a great performance as you sip on one of the bar’s signature cocktails including the Old Fizz made with rhubarb-infused gin and white wine syrup. Nolinski Hotel 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10 88 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

ENTERTAINMENT Bars A New Old Favourite It has always been a mythical address of the French capital and now after its recent reopening the Hôtel de Crillon is claiming back its spot as one of Paris’s most loved hotels. With a complete renovation, which lasted over 3 years and saw Parisians wait for its doors to reopen with bated breath, guests can now enter the majestic address. Where once stood the Michelin-starred restaurant is the hotel’s new bar and lounge, Les Ambassadeurs, where under gleaming chandeliers and a painted blue sky with romantic floating clouds guests can settle in for a very chic cocktail hour. The menu here boasts over 100 champagne references and signature cocktails include the orange vodka-based Parisian Mule. Les Ambassadeurs 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01 44 71 15 80 Sans titre-5 1 w w w.wh e re01/06/2017 t r ave l e r. com 89 11:51

Cabarets Crazy Horse CRAZY HORSE PARADIS LATIN A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show and quickly became one of the chicest performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, addresses in the Latin quarter. The bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in designs. The current show is inspired by the 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. endless theme of femininity . The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, magical feast for the eyes and ears. Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm. Daily 8 pm. www.lecrazyhorseparis.com www.paradislatin.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), M° Alma-Marceau 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu LIDO The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a MOULIN ROUGE wonderful song-and-dance spectacular This famous cabaret is home to the journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 original cancan. The current show, Crazy Horse © Antoine Poupel dazzling costumes. Daily. Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, www.lido.fr including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), staging. Daily. 01 40 76 56 10 www.moulinrouge.fr M° George V 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche 90 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

© Pauline NICOLAS - LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS © Bal du Moulin Rouge 2017- Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499 CABARET DU MONDE ! CABARET IN THE WORLD! DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 175 € DINNER & SHOW AT 7PM FROM €175 REVUE À 21H ET À 23H À PARTIR DE 77 € SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €77 MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY - 75018 PARIS WWW.MOULIN-ROUGE.COM TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 FACEBOOK.COM/LEMOULINROUGEOFFICIEL

Address Book ENTERTAINMENT For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris BARS & WINE BARS Harry’s New York Bar Les Jardins du Pont Neuf Badaboum This landmark establishment is a fine place With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous Located a few minutes from the Place de la to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they cocktails. The bar also features a small but very piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra with each round. This is a perfect address for a 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after Hotel Costes Bar a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), Buddha Bar This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), Moonshiner with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete Hotel Providence with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin The Ballroom cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot Prescription Cocktail Club by the beautiful people of the city, serves up is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. ambiance and the bartender can mix you a cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis The Ice Kube Le Bar Le Bristol Bar Chill out and sip 3 Finlandia cocktails and one The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for shot at the city’s first ice bar. The establishment a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with enjoying cosy drinks including a variety provides you with toasty garments to keep you a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), of original cocktails and a fine selection of warm while you enjoy this icily magical setting. 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré Reservations requested. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle Bar du Plaza Athénée Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an Le Bar Long CASINO impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau Casinos Barrière 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table M° Franklin D. Roosevelt nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans Bar Le Baudelaire 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-les- This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin Bains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord La Closerie des Lilas to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. The bar of this mythical place remains magical. JAZZ CLUBS Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du M° Madeleine Café Universel Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin Experimental Cocktail Bar Located near the Latin Quarter, this jazz club is A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar a welcoming and intimate setting where the A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of are held every Tuesday night. 267 rue Saint Jacques (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), Juveniles 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo Caveau de la Huchette This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the fine French wines as well as wines from around Le Lucien Bar Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz the world and you can purchase bottles to take Every detail here is perfect from the temperature music for the past six decades. The spot is rife away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, M° Pyramides glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. the Knights Templar held meetings at this 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette Kléber Bar (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are Le Rubis hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local Duc des Lombards Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently fine selection of wines and champagnes are all can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. regions among others. 10 rue du Marché Saint- talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one M° Boissière Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides of the best sound-systems in town and is now EXPERIMENTAL COCKTAIL BAR | Bars & Wine Bars (2nd) LE DOKHAN’S CHAMPAGNE BAR | Bars & Wine Bars (16th) 92 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

ENTERTAINMENT Address Book known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams replete with gastronomic restaurant whose champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet armchairs. The huge dance floor in the Silencio discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch Jazz Club Etoile This private club, conceived and designed by (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile A true temple to jazz since it opened two David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Le Mona Lisa and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Non- Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and members are admitted after midnight. 142 rue Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr festive club brings in the fashion crowd and de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty Grands Boulevards clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock New Morning Titty Twister and a touch of electro pop. The establishment The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both This trendy loft-like club is a chic address also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s for drinks and great music. The popular 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy establishment has the added feature of a Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come Le Montana smoking room with a pool table as well as a here to listen to two hours of solid music and This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germain- tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, des-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), Vanity Paris GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in Pink Paradise Le Social Club every corner. Special soirées are held every night The first table-dancing show in Paris and Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, including Throwback Thursday for an old school where everyone who still wants to party goes tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s style party. The door policy is strict so be sure after all the other clubs are done for the night. smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Les Bains VIP Room Secret Square This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian The French capital’s glamorous restaurant of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and club is where clients are treated to a nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts and famous lets you dance the night away to sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), performing in a jewel-box décor. The show hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), MAGICAL AND OPERA SHOWS 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau Le Bel Canto NIGHT CLUBS Palais Maillot Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this A luxurious nightclub known for its gala restaurant featuring food with a southern L’Arc Paris evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented French and Italian flair brings you the luxury Favoured by French and international while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat of dining while enjoying the music of, among celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot performed by talented young singers from The club has a great dance floor in black and Queen Club the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. This venue attracts a handsome crowd of only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), youthful ultra-chic Parisians. This nightspot is 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile filled with music from some of the capital’s most Le Double Fond Le Baron sought after DJs and the clubbing experience This unique venue is dedicated to the world You can club until dawn at this celebrated includes Disco Queen on Mondays, Ladies of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like Night on Wednesdays and a house electro the bar or at your table served by waiters who ambiance - there’s live music - attracts a trendy, programme on Fridays. 79 ave des Champs- are English-speaking magicians who perform elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door. Elysées, enter through 22, rue Quentin Bauchart tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau (8th), M° George V interactive and humorous magic shows are held Le Duplex Raspoutine from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly This mythical Parisian venue remains an Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul SECRET SQUARE | Gentlemen’s Clubs (17th) LE MONA LISA | Night Clubs (1st) w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 93

The Guide SERVICES For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris EUROSTAR & TRAINS MEDICAL SERVICES Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo, PARIS DISTRICTS before departure time or you will risk not 92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25. being allowed to board the train. If you still M° Pont de Neuilly need to pick up your ticket at the station British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), you should arrive at least an hour before 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) - www.eurostar.com 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41. M° Franklin Roosevelt SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying Pharmacie Monge  74 rue Monge (5th), stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com). You can buy a ticket in any station for any RENTAL CARS & SCOOTERS destination; your ticket will indicate your Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr departure station. Punch your ticket in the Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr composteur before boarding your train or First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62, risk being fined. www.firstgtlocation.fr 1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the LIMOUSINES Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Tuileries Gardens. Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr 2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy FIRST Limousine – Tel: 01.41.40.99.99 TAX REFUND boutiques. Massey Limousines – Tel: 01.58.05.13.00 When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes 3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox MC Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood. My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment 5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will MY STS – Tel: 01.74.54.50.08 simply show them your passport and ask them to fill find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50 in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market Service Prestige – Tel: 01.44.29.29.44 customs to stamp at the airport before flying off. street. 6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés. 7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay. 8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops. 9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann. 10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour First GT Location provides prestige car hire for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants. 11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas HAIR SALONS REAL ESTATE AGENCIES around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars. Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8th), Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8 ), th 01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt 13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The 01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde DS Real Estate Paris - 78 ave Raymond crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André Poincaré (16th), 01.83.62.90.14. M° Victor Hugo near Place d’Italie. des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), the Eiffel Tower. David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the Coldwell Banker - 8 rue Lamennais (8th), L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’Opéra-Louis dancers at the Moulin Rouge. Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine 01.83.53.53.53. M° George V Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), famous neighbourhood where you can pay 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde at the Père Lachaise cemetery. 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde 94 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

Getting to and from the Airport miss TO CHARLES DE GAULLE (ROISSY) AIRPORT Le Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 TO ORLY AIRPORT The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with Orlyval, an automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval "griffes" 20) leave daily from Montparnasse (14 rue du runs every 5-7 minutes, 6am-11pm (8.70€). The RER C direction Massy-Verrières connects with Come discover unique haute Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) and Gare de Lyon (20 blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take couture designs in this store Orlybus outside the Denfert-Rochereau Métro de Lyon), every 30 minutes, 5:30am-10:30pm, 6:15am-10:45pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ stop (14th), every 20 minutes 5:35am-11pm located in the heart of the round trip). These buses also leave from the Arc de (7.20€). Bus Direct-Paris Aéroport buses leave from the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, golden triangle of Paris Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion St Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), Trocadéro M° Etoile), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro) and Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro), the Eiffel Tower the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs (18-20 rue Jean Rey, 7th, RER Champs de Mars- de Mars-Tour Eiffel), every 30 minutes, 5:45am-11pm, Tour Eiffel), La Motte-Picquet (88 ave de Suffren, 6am-11:15pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round 15th, M° La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle) and Gare trip). Take RER B (9.50€) or catch the Roissybus (10€) Montparnasse (Rue du commandant Mouchotte, at 11 rue Scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, every 15 minutes M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 minutes, between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 minutes between 4:50am-10:30pm, 6am-11:40pm, from airport 7pm and 10pm and every 30 minutes between 10pm (12€ one way, 20€ round trip). and 11pm. (01 58 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr www.aeroportsdeparis.fr Prada - Louis Vuitton - Armani ADVERTORIAL L’Ibis Rouge, the luxury vintage boutique Marni - Valentino - Chanel This beautiful and original boutique in the heart of Saint Germain des Prés offers a unique array of vintage couture fashion and jewellery by Chanel, Lanvin, YSL, Christian Lacroix… You will also find a fine selection of vintage crocodile bags and contemporary jewellery pieces from French and foreign designers. 35 Blvd Raspail (7th) 19 rue de Penthièvre M° Sèvres-Babylone 75008 Paris - France Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 98 21 Monday to Friday Open from Tuesday to Saturday 12 - 7pm 1pm to 7pm ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr www.miss-griffes.fr Libisrouge miss-griffes.fr miss-griffes T H A Ï M A S S A G E A N D S P A Body AT YOUR FINGERTIPS FOR ALL DELIVERIES Ban Thaï Spa Relaxation UP ON AND High quality massage, T H I S CO RE 10€ directly in your hotel room. CEIVE OW SH English, French, Spanish spoken. 4 SPAS IN PARIS 7/7 call Paris 2nd / Paris 4th / Paris 6th / Paris 16th 06 85 81 09 05 Tel: +33 (0)7 63 93 12 54 +33 9 81 10 74 47 0033 (0)6 85 81 09 05 www.excellence-transports.fr www.paris-massage.fr w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 95

SERVICES Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines Each Métro trip requires one ticket Tickets are sold in all stations and five RER (express suburban) regardless of how many transfers and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket lines, all numbered and named for you make, though you must buy sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if their final destination (terminus). Did an extra ticket for the RER outside purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un you know that there are 300 stations the city limits. Keep your ticket carnet - 14.50€). This map includes that make up Paris’ metro system? until you exit. the new tramway line. 96 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

“Paris Visite” passes offer While the Métro is an extremely unlimited travel on the Métro safe way to travel, watch out for and buses (1-day, 2-day, 3-day, pickpockets in crowded trains and 5-day). The Métro and RER start stations. For information in English, running at 5:30am, and stop call the transportation company around 1 am. (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 97 tiersPageV3.indd 2 09/07/15 22:59

My Paris DIMITRI RUIZ HEAD CONCIERGE AT AUBERGE DU JEU DE PAUME, CHANTILLY Musée d’Orsay Jules Verne Angelina VIP Room If one of our readers is only in Paris for suggest our readers get the best view of For a romantic location, I suggest the 24 hours what one thing would you the city? Maison Blanche on the rooftop of the Musée d’Orsay, iStock 2017 © Andrey Krav ; Restaurant Jules Verne © Pierre Monetta; Angelina DR; VIP Room © www.audransarzier.com recommend they do? The top of the butte Montmartre is the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées or a dinner Begin with breakfast at Claus Paris or place to be for a breath-taking view of Paris cruise on the River Seine with the Yachts at Angelina’s. Visit the Louvre museum and this area is so quintessentially Paris and de Paris. preferably with a private guide before charming. enjoying lunch at Les Jalles or at the Where is one of the areas in Paris that is Bistrot de Paris located near the Orsay It’s not always easy for our readers to find ideal for a leisurely stroll? museum and then take in the Impressionist somewhere fun to head to at 2am, where There is a promenade located between paintings of the Orsay museum. Have would you recommend they party till dawn? the Bastille and the Bois de Vincennes a cocktail at La Prescription bar before The City of Light and the night world join called la Coulée Verte and the artisans and having dinner at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon together at L’Arc, the Baron, VIP Room, creators located at the bottom of it will Saint-Germain, or have a drink at the bar Silencio, and Raspoutine. help you to discover lesser-known crafts. of the Plaza Athénée before enjoying an exceptional meal at chef Alain Ducasse’s As the fashion capital, which areas do you restaurant at the hotel. think showcase the best fashions? Paris is the capital of fashion and the areas My perfect day For our readers who are looking for of Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Rue Saint- 9am: Visit Musée d’Orsay a traditional Parisian bistro serving Honoré and Avenue Montaigne are its 12pm: Lunch at Franck at the Fondation Louis authentic French fare, where would you main symbols, but you should not forget Vuitton book them a table? to stroll towards the department stores, 3pm: Visit the MoMa in Paris exhibition at the Coq Rico, for its Bresse poultry or its Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on Fondation Louis Vuitton magrets, Train Bleu, Neva or Jules Verne for Boulevard Haussmann, close to the Opera. 9pm: Dinner at Le Pré Catelan, a 3-star Michelin its view. restaurant For a couple in love where would you 10:45pm: Crazy Horse show Paris is well-known for its magnificent recommend they go for a romantic monuments, from where would you dinner? where ® Your Guide to the World 98 W HE RE PA R I S I N O V E M B E R 2017

CHANEL.COM SOUS LE SIGNE DU LION NECKLACE, SAUTOIR AND RING IN WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS