Where London July 2018

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GUIDE TO LONDON ® JULY 2018 WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM BY ROYAL INVITATION How to step inside Buckingham Palace PLUS SOUNDS OF ALICE IN THE CITY WONDERLAND From the BBC Proms SPECTACULAR to Kew the Music ROOFTOP BARS HÉLÈNE DARROZE’S LONDON HOTSPOTS Andy Murray Roger Federer, Serena Williams WIMBLEDON WINNERS The ultimate guide to the tennis championships, from star players to strawberries and cream C U LT U R E E N T E R TA I N M E N T SHOPPING DINING MAPS WL JULY COVER FINAL.indd 1 14/06/2018 10:05

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Contents RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE Where London has direct access to the head concierges and their teams across London’s four and ON THE COVER five-star hotels, and It’s time for tennis! Cover July is considered to be See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london the ‘concierge’s bible’ image © AELTC 24 54 46 The Guide 24 SIGHTSEEING Buckingham Palace opens its doors again for summer, while Hampton Court Palace wows with its annual flower show. 46 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Browse an exhibition of John Vernon Lord’s illustrations for Lewis Carroll’s books. 54 ENTERTAINMENT Music fans can attend festivals to listen to everyone from Paul Simon to Bruno Mars. 66 SHOPPING Take home a reminder of London’s most beautiful buildings with souvenirs inspired by the capital’s iconic architecture. 70 DINING ADVENTURES IN WONDERLAND © JOHN VERNON LORD; MADISON © JUSTINE TRICKETT; VENUS AND SERENA WILLIAMS © AELTC FLOWERS IN A MINI COURTESY OF RHS HAMPTON COURT PALACE FLOWER SHOW; IAN MCKELLEN © MANUEL-HARLAN; ALICE’S TV chef Bryn Williams, who’s cooked for the 14 Queen, has opened a new restaurant in Best of the month Somerset House. 80 80 NIGHTLIFE See the sights while 6 WHERE NOW 14 WIMBLEDON CHAMPIONSHIPS you sip cocktails, We take a look at this month’s most exciting Whether it’s strawberries and cream or wearing Pimm’s and craft beers events, including Pride in London, the river festival white, find out the etiquette and traditions of at London’s hidden Sail Royal Greenwich, the Prudential RideLondon the world’s oldest tennis tournament. rooftop bars. cycling festival and Art Night, where you can experience contemporary art and performances 20 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE 84 WELLBEING from dusk until dawn. Choose sport-inspired gifts and souvenirs, Swap your hotel gym including Wimbledon towels, a framed for a yoga class on a 10 HOW TO PROM cricket print and cyclist cufflinks. pretty roof garden, up Get your fix of classical music during the annual The Shard or on Tower BBC Proms festival, which brings global solo artists, 90 MY PERFECT DAY Bridge’s glass walkway. choirs and orchestras to the Royal Albert Hall and Michelin-starred French chef Hélène Darroze from other grand venues across the capital. The Connaught shares her top London spots. 86 ESSENTIALS London concierges share their travel tips on how to make the TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S most of your trip. We are the world’s largest publisher of maps In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can – and London Planner, the official monthly guide 88 MAP be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s A useful map of than 80 destinations around the globe. promotional company, London & Partners. central London. w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m   3 WL JULY CONTENTS.indd 3 15/06/2018 08:36

TOT_WhereLondonJULY18_251x118mm_310518.qxp_Layout 1 31/05/2018 14:58 Page 1 IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936 where M A G A Z I N E ® HOP-ON Published in association with Officially endorsed by the Society of the Golden Keys of GB and the Commonwealth EDITORIAL HOP-OFF GROUP EDITOR Kohinoor Sahota GROUP DEPUTY EDITOR Sarah Riches ASSOCIATE AND DIGITAL EDITOR Neil Simpson SUB EDITOR Anna Frame CONTRIBUTORS Hannah Nepil GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton SENIOR DESIGNER Suzette Scoble GRAPHIC DESIGNER Meg Georgeson PICTURE EDITOR Tamsan Barratt DISCOVER • EXPLORE • ENJOY PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Stewart Dymock CONTENT DIRECTOR Chris Johnson ADVERTISING & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT SALES DIRECTOR Rob Way SALES DIRECTOR (CONSUMER) Sindy Walker SALES DEVELOPMENT MANAGER Charlotte Johnson-Last HOTEL & CONCIERGE SERVICES DIRECTOR Sam Johnson MARKETING & DISTRIBUTION COORDINATOR Ana Martinez SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Dominique Marchi CONTENT MANAGER Flora Neighbour DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT MANAGER Jo Bathurst PRODUCTION PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION DIRECTOR Mel Needham SENIOR PRODUCTION ASSISTANT & RETOUCHER Dave Weeks PRODUCTION ASSISTANT David Pollard SENIOR MARKETING, DISTRIBUTION & PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Graham Randell MVP I OPERATIONS OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Bridget Mastino OFFICE COORDINATOR Ewa Laskowska OPERATIONS ASSISTANT Vinetta Swan E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE FIRSTNAME.LASTNAME@MORRISEUROPE.COM MVP I EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT Donna W Kessler MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning MVP I CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC. 725 Broad St, Augusta, GA 30901 MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN William S Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S Morris IV WHERE LONDON 2nd Floor, Samuel House, 6 St Alban’s St, London, SW1Y 4SQ Contact: Where Magazine Subscriptions. T: 020-7611 7882. Email: subscriptions@ morriseurope.com. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part WIMBLEDON IMAGE © AELTC strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. In London, Where® Magazine is pleased to be a member of The Society of the Golden theoriginaltour.com Keys and London & Partners/Published by Morris Visitor Publications, a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company, LCC, 727 Broad St, Augusta, GA 20901. or speak to your hotel concierge The papers used for this magazine are produced from certified sustainable sources by mills with recognised environmental accreditation. IN PARTNERSHIP WITH LONDON IN THE PALM OF YOUR HAND DOWNLOAD THE ORIGINAL TOUR APP The Professional Where® Magazine and the where® Publishers Association Member logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Vol. No. 44 Issue No. 7 ISSN 0951 323X 4  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY MASTHEAD.indd 4 15/06/2018 08:37

Welcome Anyone for tennis? There’s nothing quite like summer in London. It’s a chance to see the city in its best light, and places from rooftops to parks in new and inspiring ways. You don’t have to be a member of the royal family or a politician to visit Buckingham Palace. This month, it opens with a special exhibition featuring Prince Charles’ favourite artworks from the Royal Collection. You might not bump into the Queen, but the summer opening will give you a chance to peek inside one of the world’s most famous buildings (p. 24). Wimbledon celebrates one of Britain’s most established sports: tennis. So if you don’t know your Boris Becker from your Billie Jean King, read our feature on p. 14 – it will fill you in on the key players as well as the etiquette of the game. Whether you like classical or pop, there’s music for everyone in London this summer. The BBC Proms (p. 10), the world’s biggest classical music event, takes place, while Hyde Park and Somerset House welcome stars from Bruno Mars to Paul Simon (p. 54). Few chefs have had a cartoon character inspired by them. Hélène Darroze is so well-known, however, that the Oscar-winning film Ratatouille based culinary heroine Colette on her. If you want a meal to remember, visit Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, her two Michelin-starred French restaurant. Darroze tells us her favourite London spots on p. 90. Don’t forget to send us your snaps on social media. Have a lovely summer! WIMBLEDON IMAGE © AELTC KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London Billie Jean King playing at Wimbledon in 1977 Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: wherelondon w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m   5 WL JULY MASTHEAD.indd 5 15/06/2018 08:38

® Get swept away by the exciting events taking place this month, from Sail Royal Greenwich on the River Thames to the Pride Parade on the streets of London SAIL ROYAL GREENWICH WEDNESDAY 4–SUNDAY 8 JULY Fancy an old-fashioned trip down the River Thames? Cruise down our famous river in a classic tall ship, during the annual Sail Royal Greenwich festival. Expect an international array of these huge ships, best known for their high masts and large, striking sails. Each vessel sets off from Royal Arsenal Pier in the east, sailing down the Thames and taking in breathtaking views. www.sailroyalgreenwich.co.uk JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE MONDAY 9 & WEDNESDAY 11 JULY Justin Timberlake has come a long way since he was part of the Mickey Mouse Club as a child. This month he brings his Man of the Woods tour to The O2 PRUDENTIAL RIDELONDON arena. The sets are exciting, SATURDAY 28–SUNDAY 29 JULY from a campfire on stage to Thousands of cyclists, from top professionals to families, descend a disco dancefloor. Expect on the capital for the annual Prudential RideLondon cycling festival. to hear hit songs including Celebrating the humble bike, events range from a mass ride for all Can’t Stop the Feeling, ages through the city’s traffic-free streets on Saturday, to a London SexyBack and Like I Love to Surrey race, ending back on The Mall, on Sunday. It’s all part of the You. www.theo2.co.uk Mayor of London and Transport for London’s initiative to encourage people to cycle safely and more often. www.prudentialridelondon.co.uk 6  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY WHERE NOW V2.indd 6 15/06/2018 08:40

★★★★★ ‘IT IS OUT OF THIS WORLD, IT’S MAGIC, AND IT’S A HIT’ THE TIMES CHECK DAILY FOR LATE-RELEASE TICKETS PALACE THEATRE, LONDON www.HarryPotterThePlay.com TM & © HPTP. Harry Potter ™ WBEI WL HP CURSED CHILD.indd 1 12/06/2018 14:26

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR T JULY BURT BACHARACH 1 Looking for drama? Exit the King starts today at the National Theatre FRIDAY 6–SATURDAY 7 JULY Magic Moments, I Say a Little Prayer 2 Join the queue for the first day of the Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Championships and Walk on By are just some of Burt Bacharach’s hits – the Grammy and 3 See thousands of artworks at the Royal Academy’s Summer Exhibition Academy Award-winning songwriter is behind 48 Top 10s. He has penned 4 Mark American Independence Day at a special service at St Paul’s Cathedral songs for Dionne Warwick, Tom Jones, Aretha Franklin and Dusty Springfield, 5 Join the crowds on the River Thames to watch races in the Henley Royal Regatta among others. Bacharach, who was born in Kansas City, turned 90 this year. To 6 Catch music stars including Roger Waters at British Summer Time in Hyde Park celebrate his career, he is joined by an orchestra to bring his classic songs to the 7 See Stormzy, Migos, French Montana and other big names at the Wireless Festival Southbank Centre’s Royal Festival Hall. www.southbankcentre.co.uk 8 It’s the final day of the RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show 9 Superstar singer Justin Timberlake rocks The O2 arena tonight 10 Watch stars in a spectacular setting at PREVIOUS PAGE: SAIL ROYAL GREENWICH © SAIL ROYAL GREENWICH; JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE COURTESY OF THE O2; PRUDENTIAL RIDELONDON COURTESY OF PRUDENTIAL RIDELONDON. ART NIGHT Kew the Music, which kicks off tonight SATURDAY 7 JULY 11 Catch the final few days of The Courtauld THIS PAGE: BURT BACHARACH © ERIC RAY DAVIDSON; GOODWOOD FESTIVAL OF SPEED COURTESY OF GOODWOOD FESTIVAL OF SPEED; PRIDE IN LONDON © MOYNA TALCER Gallery’s Artists at Work exhibition Locations along the south of the River Thames, including the South Bank and Battersea Power Station, 12 Travel back to 1860s Siam at The King and I at the London Palladium are transformed for this annual arts festival. From 6pm until 6am, 13 It’s the opening day of Life in the Dark at the Natural History Museum this free event has multimedia installations, video projections, 14 On your marks, get set, go! The Athletics World Cup begins at the London Stadium musical performances and virtual reality experiences. Art Night 15 Catch Ian McKellen in a new performance of King Lear at the Duke of York’s Theatre guides are on hand to help you locate each sight, which range 16 Visit the Serpentine Gallery’s Summer Pavilion, designed by Frida Escobedo from a musical red-and-blue gypsy caravan suspended from 17 See inside the dressing rooms on a tour of Emirates Stadium, home of Arsenal FC a crane, to a big procession along the route by Italian visual artist 18 See ZSL London Zoo in a whole new light at the after-hours Zoo Nights Marinella Senatore. Grab yourself a strong coffee, as it’s going to 19 Travel back millions of years at Dinosaurs in the Wild at Greenwich Peninsula be a busy night. www.artnight.london 20 Go under the sea with Sea Creatures at the Royal Horticultural Halls 21 It’s the first day of the inaugural London National Park City Week PRIDE IN LONDON PARADE 22 IfGuiltiest you love street food, visit KERB’s Pleasures in Granary Square 23 Enjoy SATURDAY 7 JULY a night of dramatic Russian pieces Pride takes place in many major cities, and is at the BBC Proms at the Royal Albert Hall an annual joy juggernaut that has grown from humble beginnings to the huge 24 Buy tickets to Buckingham Palace’s State Rooms for its summer opening celebration of today’s diverse LGBT+ culture. Indeed, the parade now 25 Celebrate women’s suffrage at the Houses of Parliament’s exhibition Voice and Vote serves as a glittering closing ceremony to London’s month-long 26 Head to Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club to see the Average White Band on stage Pride in London festival, which began in June and has been filled 27 Watch global sporting action at the Hockey Women’s World Cup in Stratford with a programme of theatre, cabaret, exhibitions and events. 28 It’s your final chance to see As You Like It at the Open Air Theatre in Regent’s Park The parade itself starts at noon, covering the West End and ending 29 Rodin and the Art of Ancient Greece closes today at The British Museum in Trafalgar Square, where you’ll encounter drag queens, rainbow 30 IfTheit’sShard a clear day, whizz up The View from to catch stunning vistas flags and dancing police officers. www.prideinlondon.org 31 See an Agatha Christie play: The Mousetrap and Witness for the Prosecution are both on For more ideas visit www.wheretraveler.com 8  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY WHERE NOW V2.indd 8 15/06/2018 11:27

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WHERE NOW | BBC PROMS Face the Music Hannah Nepil finds out how the BBC Proms, one of the world’s biggest classical music festivals, have created a season for everyone T hey go on for eight weeks every in Langham Place, where the concerts BUYING TICKETS summer. They’re on the TV and initially took place. Bookings can be made in person at the Royal radio and host musicians from all More than a century later, the Proms have Albert Hall box office, online, over the phone around the world. Yet the Proms, kept their reputation for cosy informality, or by post, where you can create and submit or BBC Promenade Concerts as they are despite being ensconced at the enormous, your own Proms Plan. Those hoping to catch more formally known, started off with a 5,000-seat Royal Albert Hall since 1941, when several Proms might consider a Season Pass, straightforward aim: ‘to train the public by the Queen’s Hall was destroyed during an air which guarantees a standing place at each easy stages’. So said the impresario Robert raid. But they have also grown into one of the concert. Advance tickets sell quickly, but if you Newman when he founded the festival, biggest classical music festivals in the world. miss out, don’t panic: there are returns and up back in 1895, hoping to replicate the relaxed Almost every major international orchestra, to 1,350 standing tickets are available to buy atmosphere of the promenade concerts conductor and soloist has performed there, on the day of each concert for just £6. Some that took place in London’s 18th-century and the increasingly diverse programme has are released between 9am and noon and pleasure gardens. Henry Wood, who was something for everyone, combining main the rest are sold in person when the doors appointed as the festival’s sole conductor, evening and late-night concerts, chamber open, one hour before each performance. took his words to heart, programming music Proms at Cadogan Hall, a series of Demand for these ‘Promming tickets’ is high, popular works and allowing the audiences Proms Plus events and, in the past few years, especially on the Last Night, for which to eat, drink and smoke in the Queen’s Hall concerts in unexpected and far-flung places. die-hard fans queue overnight. 10  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2 0 1 8 WL JULY PROMS FEATURE.indd 10 19/06/2018 10:18

Inside the Royal Albert Hall FOR THE FAMILY Orchestra at the NYO Teen Hangout at UNUSUAL LOCATIONS If you’re hoping to introduce your children Imperial College (4 Aug), and budding Over the past few years, the festival has to the world of classical music, the Proms are young artists can do some music-making of started to embrace new and unconventional the perfect way to start. Among this year’s their own at one of the daytime Proms Sing venues, some of which are located outside family-friendly highlights is the Ten Pieces events scattered throughout the festival. the capital. This season the Proms returns matinee Prom (29 Jul), in which CBBC’s to Camden’s Roundhouse to celebrate the Naomi Wilkinson explores the characters LATE-NIGHT PROMS London Sinfonietta’s 50th birthday (21 Jul), and stories behind some much-loved Taking place after the main evening concert, before travelling beyond London – to orchestral pieces. Elsewhere, Sir Simon these atmospheric events serve up some ROYAL ALBERT HALL © BBC/SANJEET RIAT Lincoln’s Drill Hall – for a performance of Rattle conducts the London Symphony of the festival’s most left-field fare, and this Stravinsky’s The Soldier’s Tale (4 Aug). Plus, Orchestra in a performance of Ravel’s year there’s a strong focus on world music. there’s a chance to see Alexandra Palace’s fairy-tale ballet Mother Goose, followed by Havana Meets Kingston (31 Jul) fuses the long-abandoned Victorian Theatre, as its L’enfant et les Sortilèges, his magical opera sound-worlds of contemporary Cuba multi-million-pound restoration approaches about a child who is reprimanded by and Jamaica. New York: Sound of a City completion, at a performance of Gilbert and the objects in his room that he has been showcases artists from the Big Apple and Sullivan’s Trial by Jury (1 Sep). This comic destroying (18 Aug). Teenagers can get the sounds on New York’s streets, from opera was written in 1875, the year the to know members of the National Youth DIY indie music to feminist rap (8 Aug). beautiful theatre first opened. ▲ w w w.w h eretravel er. co m   11 WL JULY PROMS FEATURE.indd 11 15/06/2018 08:45

WHERE NOW | BBC PROMS HIGHLIGHTS PROM 1: First Night of the Proms includes Prokofiev’s explosive Third Piano (13 Jul) Concerto, with the young Chinese pianist Marking the centenary of the World War I Yuja Wang. armistice is Five Telegrams, a new orchestral and choral piece about communication PROM 75: Last Night of the Proms from the Front Lines. It’s by genre-hopping (8 Sep) composer Anna Meredith, whose other This most famous of annual parties in output includes a beatboxer concerto classical music returns under the baton of and a piece for orchestra involving no Sir Andrew Davis, former chief conductor instruments except the players’ bodies. of the BBC Symphony Orchestra. The programme includes a new commission PROM 3: BBC Young Musician by Roxanna Panufnik (one of 24 female 40th Anniversary (15 Jul) composers being championed by this The BBC Young Musician competition has year’s Proms), as well as old favourites: been launching artists’ careers since 1968. Elgar’s Land of Hope and Glory, Parry’s This year’s finalists join forces with previous Jerusalem and Thomas Arne’s rousing winners and finalists, including violinist Rule, Britannia! Nicola Benedetti and the royal wedding cellist Sheku Kanneh-Mason, in music ROYAL ALBERT HALL INTERIOR © FIELDEN CLEGG BRADLEY STUDIOS; LAST NIGHT OF THE PROMS © BBC/CHRIS CHRISTODOULOU; JULES BUCKLEY © SUKI BUCKLEY; ROYAL ALBERT HALL EXTERIOR © ISTOCK ranging from Saint-Saëns’ Carnival of the Animals to Fantasia on the Young Musician PROMS IN THE PARK Theme – a world premiere by Bafta-winning Coinciding with the Last Night of the British composer Ben Foster. Proms inside the Royal Albert Hall, these huge open-air concerts are an informal PROM 39: West Side Story (11 Aug) and high-spirited way to celebrate the Leonard Bernstein, the celebrated festival finale, and are spread across the UK. American composer and conductor, In London, the place to be is Hyde Park, would have turned 100 this year. where several musical stars join presenter The Proms pays tribute with the first Michael Ball, conductor Richard Balcombe complete UK concert performance of West and the BBC Concert Orchestra for an Side Story, his big-hearted, jazz-infused evening of entertainment. In previous musical inspired by Romeo and Juliet. seasons, the event has linked up to the Royal Albert Hall via a big screen for the PROM 66: Berlin Philharmonic final rousing singalong. This year the Last and Kirill Petrenko (1 Sep) Night anthems will be performed live on The Berlin Philharmonic – widely the Hyde Park stage, before the traditional considered to be the world’s finest firework finale. orchestra – gives its first London Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. performance under its incoming chief T: 020-7589 8212. www.bbc.co.uk/proms conductor, Kirill Petrenko. The programme Clockwise from top left: inside the Royal Albert Hall; Last Night of the Proms; Jules Buckley; Royal Albert Hall 12  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2 0 1 8 WL JULY PROMS FEATURE.indd 12 15/06/2018 08:47

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WHERE NOW | WIMBLEDON Polish those polite clapping skills – it’s time for Wimbledon. As the most British of all sporting events returns, Neil Simpson finds out how you can secure tickets, spot a royal and enjoy strawberries and cream HISTORY Wimbledon, you say? You must mean the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club. The southwest London club’s full name is rather long because the club was founded for croquet only, in 1869. Tennis soon became more popular, and the first championship was held eight years later, in July 1877. The Championships began life on rented meadowland on Wimbledon’s Worple Road, moving to its current home on Church Road in 1922. With room for 13,500 people when it opened, many feared the new site was too big and would become an embarrassment. They could not have been more wrong. In 1937, the BBC was a year old and its first live sports coverage was of Wimbledon, with 30 minutes of Centre Court action every day. WL JULY WIMBLEDON v3.indd 14 15/06/2018 08:49

Clockwise from this image: Centre Court; Billie Jean King in 1967; Bjorn Björg and John McEnroe; Serena and Venus Williams It was watched by the several thousand Wimbledon title from a hospitality area, you to get there at least two hours before, people in north London who lived close missing out on the chance to sit with but many people queue far earlier, to the transmitters and had a television. Benedict Cumberbatch and Anna Wintour. especially for the coveted Centre Court The Queen visited Wimbledon for the first tickets. One ticket only is offered to each time in 1957 to watch the men’s doubles final TICKETS person as they reach the front. Only one bag between Lew Hoad and Neale Fraser. She Watching a match at the world’s most per person is allowed and hard-sided items, has attended the Championships four times, famous lawn tennis club isn’t as tricky as including boxes and flasks, are banned. but in 2016 she passed on her patronage to you might think. During the tournament, Inside, the Ticket Resale Booth opens at the Duchess of Cambridge, who watched tickets are set aside every day for the No.1, around 3pm, which is important to know the men’s final with Prince William last year. No.2 and Centre Courts (except for the final if you have a Grounds Pass only. Spectators The famous dress code was made official four days on Centre Court). Thousands of who have already left Centre Court for the in 1963, dictating that players must dress Grounds Passes are available, which allow day hand back their tickets here, and you ‘predominantly in white’ – it was upgraded access to unreserved seats on Courts 3-18 can queue to buy them for £15 each. to ‘almost entirely in white’ in 1995. Formula 1 and to the large, outdoor screen on ‘Henman If queueing isn’t your style, there will be ALL PHOTOS © AELTC champion Lewis Hamilton was barred from Hill’ which shows the top matches. a public ballot for 2019 tickets (open from Centre Court’s Royal Box in 2015 because The earlier you arrive before the grounds 1 Sep to 31 Dec), or you could treat yourself he wasn’t wearing a shirt and tie. Instead, he open at 10.30am, the more likely it is that to a hospitality package, which go on sale had to watch Novak Djokovic win his third you will get a ticket. Wimbledon advises after the Championships finish. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com   15 WL JULY WIMBLEDON v3.indd 15 15/06/2018 08:50

WHERE NOW | WIMBLEDON Clockwise from left: Duke and Duchess of Cambridge in the Royal Box; ball boys and ball girls ready for action; Rufus the Harris hawk You can take a tour of the grounds, won against Serbian Novak Djokovic, after including Centre Court, throughout the three hours and 10 minutes in soaring heat, year and visit the Wimbledon Museum. it was a moment of national pride – a Brit On display are trophies as well as tennis kits had finally lifted the trophy. and equipment used by champions. During the Championships (2-15 Jul), the museum WIMBLEDON GREATS is only open to ticketholders (except on 8 Jul Wimbledon’s first big name was Brit William if no games are scheduled), while tours are Renshaw, who snatched seven titles between The tournament puts 2,200 catering suspended until 21 Jul. 1881 and 1889. His success helped to increase staff to work, making Wimbledon the popularity of tennis and paved the way the largest single annual sport catering EPIC BATTLES for the tournament’s current status. operation in Europe. Björn Borg vs John McEnroe, 1980. The rivalry In 1938, Californian player Helen Wills between this pair was legendary, perhaps Moody became the first woman to win In 2017, spectators consumed due to their vast difference in temperament: Wimbledon eight times, a record which took 33,000kg of English strawberries; Borg was famously cool, calm and collected, 52 years to be broken by Martina Navratilova. 10,000 litres of fresh cream; 17,000 while American McEnroe was the opposite. Moody’s steely focus on the game earned portions of fish and chips and 29,000 During this men’s singles final, the fourth-set her the nickname Little Miss Poker Face. bottles of Champagne. tie-break was a staggering 22 minutes long. Billie Jean King, also from California, became Eventually, Sweden’s Borg triumphed and Wimbledon’s most-decorated winner in 1979 The fastest serve ever recorded was claimed his fifth Wimbledon title. with 20 trophies: four mixed doubles titles, the American player Taylor Dent’s In 1985, Boris Becker was just 17 years old six singles and 10 doubles. A fierce advocate 148mph effort in 2010. Venus Williams when he beat 27-year-old Kevin Curren, which for gender equality, King was named among holds the record for women – she belted made the German the youngest-ever winner. the ‘100 Most Important Americans of the a ball at 129mph in 2008. In 2001, Venus Williams beat her younger 20th Century’ by LIFE magazine. sister Serena in the women’s semi-final and You are probably familiar with the phrase King George VI is the only member went on to become Wimbledon champion. ‘you cannot be serious!’, but did you know of the royal family to have competed, A year later, revenge was sweet for Serena, that it was uttered at Wimbledon? Three-time during Wimbledon’s 50th jubilee year who was victorious in the women’s singles singles champion John McEnroe shouted it in 1926. Thirty years old and not yet king, final for the first time, aged 21. furiously at umpire Edward James in 1981, he played in the Gentlemen’s Doubles, Roger Federer and Rafael Nadal’s match in when he failed to call McEnroe’s serve. but didn’t make it past the first round. 2008 is the longest-ever men’s singles final So, who is the greatest-ever at Wimbledon; the battle continued for four Wimbledonian? That honour Wimbledon ALL PHOTOS © AELTC; STRAWBERRIES © ISTOCK hours, 48 minutes. After losing the previous belongs to Martina Navratilova: employs two Championships to the Swiss maestro, the American was crowned Rufus the Harris Spain’s Nadal finally won just as night fell. Ladies’ Singles Champion nine hawk to drive In 2013, it had been 77 years since Britain times between 1978 and 1990. away the local had produced a champion. The previous year, Roger Federer and Helen Wills pigeons. Rufus Brit Andy Murray had made it to the final Moody are next, both claiming flies around the against Swiss Roger Federer. When Federer the singles title eight times each. grounds at 9am, won, Murray proved that big boys do cry, All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet before they open breaking down in tears when he delivered Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 to the public. his concession speech. So when Murray 6131. www.wimbledon.com 16  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY WIMBLEDON v3.indd 16 19/06/2018 10:23

‘I DOUBT I’LL EVER SEE A BETTER PRODUCTION IN MY LIFETIME’ THE WALL STREET JOURNAL TH E LI N CO LN C E NTE R TH E ATE R P RO D U C TI O N RODGERS & HAMMERSTEIN’S D I R EC TE D BY BARTLETT SHER TONY AWARD WINNER TONY AWARD NOMINEE KELLI O’HARA KEN WATANABE ‘THE THEATRICAL EVENT OF 2018’ SUNDAY EXPRESS NOW PLAYING UNTIL 29 SEPTEMBER FOR BEST AVAILABILITY choose Premium Seating book online at kingandimusical.co.uk or call +44 (0) 20 7087 7757 or ask your Hotel Concierge London Palladiu M WL THE KING AND I.indd 1 13/06/2018 17:10

WHERE NOW | PROMOTIONAL FEATURE MANNING © HEATHER DEWEY-HAGBORG AND FRIDMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK CITY; TWO IMAGES OF INSIDE THE EXHIBITION COURTESY BRIDGE © OSSIP VAN DUIVENBODE; THE FUTURE STARTS HERE EXHIBITION © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON; CHELSEA OF V&A; DRIVERLESS CAR – SEDRIC © VOLKSWAGEN GROUP FUTURE CENTER EUROPE; ANTENNA © BIOART LABORATORIES Supported by Volkswagen Group. ‘ his trendspotting real, produced by studios and exhibition, winningly laboratories around the world. and inventively See what’s next from major designed to resist corporations such as Google minimalist, brightly-lit and Apple, alongside the clichés about the future, instead alternative futures presented guides you with ethical and by smaller institutions and speculative questions.’ independent designers tackling (The Telegraph) issues from the strain on the The Future Starts Here is environment, the impact a major exhibition celebrating of digital connectivity on the power of design in shaping solitariness and even projects the world of tomorrow, bringing tackling human immortality. together more than 100 Marvel at the latest innovations incredible objects – either in robotics and prosthetics and newly released or in witness the increasingly blurred development – that point lines between humanity and towards where society might technology. On public display be heading. From smart for the first time is Facebook’s appliances to satellites, artificial Aquila, part of a solar-powered intelligence to internet culture, aircraft that’s in development this ‘mind-boggling, parameter- as part of Facebook’s efforts expanding display’ (The Times) to bring affordable internet to may seem straight out of unconnected regions around science fiction, but they are the world. CXXXXXX 18  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JUNE V&A PROMOTION.indd 18 15/06/2018 08:57

MANNING © HEATHER DEWEY-HAGBORG AND FRIDMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK CITY; TWO IMAGES OF INSIDE THE EXHIBITION COURTESY OF V&A; DRIVERLESS CAR – SEDRIC © VOLKSWAGEN GROUP FUTURE CENTER EUROPE; ANTENNA © BIOART LABORATORIES “ THIS SHOW IS FUN. TEENAGERS WILL LOVE IT. – The Times ” Clockwise from top: Luchtsingel pedestrian bridge in Rotterdam; The Future Starts Here exhibition; DNA portrait of Chelsea Manning; Sedric the driverless car by Consider what impact #TheFutureStartsHere the Volkswagen Group Future these projects might have The Future Starts Here runs Center Europe; on your body, your home, until 4 November 2018 in the in the exhibition; dummy antenna your work, your planet V&A’s Sainsbury Gallery, a new around a fake tree – even your love life! While purpose-built subterranean by Dutch artist Jalila Essaidi what’s on display suggest gallery and one of the largest a certain future, it is not temporary exhibition spaces yet determined. The future in Europe. we get is up to us. www.vam.ac.uk/future CXXXXXX w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19 WL JUNE V&A PROMOTION.indd 19 15/06/2018 08:58

WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS PUT YOUR BEST FOOT FORWARD Collect Pandora’s charms Running Shoe Charm, £23, Pandora, 465 Oxford St, W1C 2AU MAKING A RACKET FROM Official Wimbledon souvenirs Wimbledon Championships Logo Cap, £23, and Wimbledon Men’s Championship Towel, LONDON £30, Wimbledon Shop, All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE As a summer of sporting events begins, from Wimbledon to the cycle races, here are gifts inspired by our beautiful games GET ON YOUR BIKE Created by the British label Ted Baker Stainless Steel and Enamel Cyclist Cufflinks, TIME OUT £55, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB A watch created to support children’s charities IWC Schaffhausen’s Da Vinci Chronograph Edition Sport Watch, £11,250, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB ALL PRODUCTS COURTESY OF THE STOCKISTS; WOMAN IMAGE © ISTOCK SPORTING GLORY John Lewis stocks sporting prints, from boxer Muhammad Ali enjoying supper in 1965 to Jacky Al-Samarraie’s work Muhammad Ali, Framed, £255, WATCH THIS SPACE and Jacky Al-Samarraie’s Connect your mobile phone to your watch Cricket Player, Framed, £35, Apple Watch Series 3, £429, Selfridges, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB W1C 1DX 20  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY PRODUCTS.indd 20 15/06/2018 09:06

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A RIVERSIDE DESTIN Step away from the hustle and bustle and visit central London’s only marina, St Katharine Docks, for food, films and festivals I f you couldn’t tell from the blue plaques, and, now, an intersection between past ST KATS BIG SCREEN St Katharine Docks are by no means and present with multiple bars, restaurants PRESENTS: WIMBLEDON a recent development. To the contrary, and shops all surrounding central London’s 2 Jul-15 Jul this remarkable pocket of London only marina. If you were left empty-handed in the has sailed on for almost two centuries. All in all, it’s somewhere that deserves Wimbledon ballot, then there’s no need On 25 October 1828, St Katharine Docks a little birthday party. And that’s exactly to worry. We’ll be showing big-screen were opened. And, unsurprisingly, it wasn’t what we’ve done. As a landmark year coverage of this year’s Wimbledon Tennis a low-key event. As the lock designed by for St Katharine Docks, we’ve organised Championships complete with deckchairs, Scottish civil engineer Thomas Telford was a summer that’s jam-packed with events and the obligatory strawberries and Pimm’s. unveiled, the good ship Elizabeth entered for everyone to enjoy. What better way to cheer on Andy Murray? with every national flag rigged to its masts. The world had arrived at St Katharine Docks. STREET-FOOD MARKET FLOATING FILM FESTIVAL As we approach the Docks’ 190th birthday Every Friday, 11.30am-2pm 16 Jul-29 Jul IMAGES © LUCY YOUNG this year – and that’s no mean feat, we’re Visit our weekly food market with 15 of the If you’re more of a film buff than a sports buff, sure you’ll agree – we’ll be celebrating the capital’s best street-food traders to choose the Floating Film Festival is returning. various incarnations the Docks have seen from. With a selection of regularly changing This time, there’ll be two weeks’ worth of over the past two centuries: international sellers, you can visit time and time again silver-screen scorchers on our Floating import hub, Modernist architecture revival and you’ll never get bored. Pontoon, with tickets on sale via Eventbrite. 22  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY ST KATHERINES DOCK.indd 14 15/06/2018 09:09

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE | WHERE NOW TINATION CLASSIC BOAT FESTIVAL 7-9 Sep And as summer starts to close, we’ll be visiting St Katharine’s roots with the Classic Boat Festival. You’ll find more than 40 vintage sailing and motor boats to explore with waterside activities such as canoeing and stand-up paddleboarding for the whole family to enjoy. There’s plenty of street-food stalls, too, plus fun activities to keep children entertained. For more information, or to be kept up-to-date IMAGES © LUCY YOUNG with our exciting events programme, please refer to our seasonal guides which can be collected from our Marina Reception, or visit our website www.skdocks.co.uk. We can’t wait to see you there. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com   23 WL JULY ST KATHERINES DOCK.indd 15 15/06/2018 09:10

SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE Enter the palace It’s time to step inside a famous royal residence again, as Buckingham Palace throws open its doors to the public, says Neil Simpson There’s no denying the thrill of walking A highlight is the ballroom, the largest up The Mall as Buckingham Palace State Room, boasting a soaring ceiling. emerges ahead of you, or watching Just off the ballroom is the 47m-long the centuries-old Changing the Guard Picture Gallery, which is filled with ceremony taking place on the other side exquisite paintings sourced from the of the palace gate. If only that pesky gate Royal Collection. This summer, however, wasn’t locked all the time. But the doors to it’s due to display even more art than usual. Buckingham Palace are now within reach, To celebrate the 70th birthday of Prince as everyone can visit the State Rooms at Charles, the Prince and Patron exhibition the annual summer opening (from 21 Jul). (from 21 Jul) displays his favourite pieces the beautiful garden, which includes This tradition began in 1993 to raise funds from the Royal Collection, such as a a lake, tennis court and café. for the repair of Windsor Castle, which dramatic wool, silk and silver-thread cloak, Tickets to the State Rooms sell quickly, had been damaged by a fire the previous taken from Napoleon following his defeat so we don’t recommend waiting until year. The original plan was for Buckingham at the Battle of Waterloo. These treasures the day of your visit. You can book a time Palace to open to the public every summer are exhibited alongside artworks by young to visit via the Royal Collection website, until 1997, but it proved so popular that artists, each of whom has benefited from where you have the option to also arrange it’s now a top tourist attraction. arts charities founded by the Prince. a 45-minute Garden Highlights tour. The State Rooms represent the most As you might imagine, the State Rooms Finally, try to be near Buckingham Palace public areas of the Queen’s home, where are also filled with priceless pieces of on 10 July, when the RAF is due to fly PRINCE & PATRON EXHIBIT © TODD-WHITE ART PHOTOGRAPHY; BUCKINGHAM PALACE © ANDREW HOLT/THE ROYAL COLLECTION © HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2018 the royal family welcome visitors during furniture wherever you look, including overhead to mark its centenary, with State and official occasions. These rooms Queen Victoria’s gilded mahogany grand a skilled display of aviation excellence. don’t uncover Her Majesty’s most private piano, made in 1856 by France’s Sébastien This dramatic sight is truly fit for a queen. moments, but do reveal her most grandiose. Érard. The tour ends as you walk through For full listing, turn to p. 28 24  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 24 15/06/2018 11:01

Visit the largest LEGO Store in the World! LEGO Store London Leicester Square • Visit the world’s FIRST LEGO Mosaic Maker. To create a personal LEGO Mosaic book your in-store experience at - https://storebooking.lego.com/ • See the unique London inspired LEGO Builds • Discover the broadest selection, exclusive and hard to find LEGO sets including the LEGO London Bus (10258) and the Exclusive Minifigure Lester (50308) • Enjoy hands-on play opportunities • Join the VIP Program and experience the VIP treatment. Sign up at shop.LEGO.com/VIP LEGO Store London Leicester Square Le ice Ru Wa 3 SWISS COURT ste per rd rS tS our W1D 6AP LONDON t t ©2018 The LEGO Group. St St iss Contact: +44 207 839 3480 Sw Leicester Square St ntry Opening hours: Cove Mon-Sat 10:00 -22:00 Wh Sunday 12:00 - 18:00 itc Ox om Ct mb en bS co Irvin do hit on S t g St t nS W Pant St Martin t Visit stores.LEGO.com for upcoming St LEGO Events, Promotions and to find nt on Pa St other LEGO Stores! WL GB LEGO.indd 1 11/06/2018 17:17

SIGHTSEEING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89 SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see Cruise control its grand interiors and fine art as well as medals The best way to discover London is by the river, so during your visit you’ll need and shields in the basement gallery. Wed-Sun MBNA Thames Clippers (p. 37); the city’s fastest and most frequent river service & bank hols 11am-5pm. Adult £10; child £6. covers all major locations. The fleet takes in Putney in the west to Woolwich in the www.english-heritage.org.uk. 149 Piccadilly, east, including special sightseeing routes, plus Tate to Tate, which travels directly Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. between the Tate Britain and Tate Modern galleries. This month, the F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. Clippers roam the river for Art Night (7 Jul), as the official boat service ArcelorMittal Orbit for the event. With special exhibitions and events taking place all This 115m-tall observation tower, which was night at spots along the river, MBNA Thames Clippers is running designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish a route which covers each location. If you want to experience Kapoor, offers 20-mile views over Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond. Adventurous types something unique during your London trip, embarking on can abseil to the ground or whizz down its 178m a late-night art hunt via the river will take some beating. tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest. Mon- Fri 11am-5pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford. Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace of Westminster, which was destroyed by fire. Daily 10am-5pm, but check before visiting. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster. MBNA THAMES CLIPPERS © MICKEY LEE (THEBIGLONDON.COM) 26  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 26 15/06/2018 11:03

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SIGHTSEEING Battersea Park Children’s Zoo The British Library where they used to work. Mon-Thu 9.30am-8pm; Zoo inside the huge park with keeper The world’s largest library has a great permanent Fri 9.30am-6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. experiences, a play area and a petting farm. collection as well as a programme of temporary Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions Attend feeding sessions throughout the day exhibitions. To 21 Oct: Windrush: Songs in a Strange and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. to watch animals such as otters, meerkats and Land. To commemorate the 70th anniversary of the T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross. monkeys as they eat (monkey-feeding sessions Empire Windrush landing (a ship carrying hundreds Buckingham Palace during weekends and school holidays only). of migrants to London), discover the Caribbeans The London residence and principal workplace 24 Jul: Snake Day. Here’s your chance to meet who arrived through poetry, novels and musical of the monarchy has 775 rooms and huge grounds. a real snake, make a snake puppet and hear a recordings. To 28 Aug: James Cook: The Voyages. From 21 Jul: State Rooms Opening. Normally special story, 11am-12.30pm & 1.30pm-3.30pm. Explore original maps, artworks and journals from closed to the public, the annual summer opening Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. Captain Cook’s historic journeys to the Antarctic lets the public tour the State Rooms and garden www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Circle, New Zealand and Australia. To 5 Aug: Karl (p. 24). 10 Jul: RAF100 Flypast. Fighter planes fly Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. and Eleanor Marx. Exploring the links between the over Buckingham Palace to mark 100 years of the Off map. Station: Battersea Park. two political activists and The British Library, Royal Air Force. Daily 9.30am-7pm; book via the Royal Collection website. Adult £24; child £13.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk/buckinghampalace. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park. Changing the Guard Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. The New Guard, who during the course of the ceremony become the Queen’s Guard, march to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. From 10am; check for dates. Free to attend. www.householddivision.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303- 123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park. Chelsea Physic Garden London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants, including medicinal varieties and tropical plants in glasshouses. 8 Jul: Living Medicine: Sleep, Anxiety & Fatigue. One-day workshop covering how our nerves and hormones function. Free daily tours. Sun-Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £9.50; child £6.25. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square. Chiswick House & Gardens See Old Masters on display in this manor house, which features neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent and architecture inspired by ancient Rome and 16th-century Italy. The gardens inspired Blenheim Palace and New York’s Central Park. To 9 Jul: Giffords Circus. This year, the touring troupe is recreating the early days of English circus. 8 Jul: DOUBLE FACE © DC EXHIBITION: DAWN OF SUPER HEROES/THE O2 Summer Party. Music, dancing and food. House Wed-Mon 10am-5pm; gardens daily 7am-dusk; conservatory daily 10am- 3pm. House entry adult £7.50; child free. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 020-8995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park. See heroes and villains inside The O2’s exhibition (p. 34) 28  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 28 15/06/2018 11:04

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SIGHTSEEING Cutty Sark Dennis Severs’ House Dinosaurs in the Wild This 19th-century ship is the world’s Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore This immersive, family-friendly last surviving tea clipper. Explore interactive the home of the late American artist Dennis attraction takes visitors on a hair-raising journey displays on deck, enjoy afternoon tea under Severs, a Grade II-listed Georgian terraced house back in time to the age of the dinosaurs. Through the hull or take part in the lively programme of in Spitalfields. Ten rooms, from the cellar to the simulations, theatre and interactive exhibitions and family-friendly events. Visitors will get a taste attic, illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk sets, see prehistoric animals in cages, a dinosaur of life on the ocean waves, including the chance weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries. The rooms autopsy and a research station, all while learning to take the ship’s wheel and learn how to steer are arranged as if they are in use and the occupants more about these creatures. Allow approximately 963 tons of Victorian tea clipper through storms have only just left – visitors will feel as if they have 90 minutes for a visit. Tue-Sun 10am-4.30pm. and high seas. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £13.50; entered a time capsule. Silent Night tour Mon, Adult £33; child £28.50. Advance booking child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm recommended. www.dinosaursinthewild.com. available. www.rmg.co.uk. Cutty Sark, & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennis West Parkside, SE10 0BE. T: 0844-854 1355. King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. severshouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020- Off map. Station: North Greenwich. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich. 7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street. Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his English dictionary, which was first published in 1755, in this 18th-century period home. Please check for staged performances, talks and tours. Its current exhibition, London: A Poem, explores Johnson’s first independently published work, including its rare first edition and images of 1730s London. Mon-Sat 11am-5.30pm. Adult £7; child £3.50; cash only. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane. Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of THE ULTIMATE Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtaulds. 11 Jul: The Lord Chamberlain’s Men Present The Tempest. FOOTBALL EXPERIENCE This all-male theatre group performs Shakepeare’s fantastical play in the gardens; play starts 7.30pm, £10-£15 tickets available on the day. 23-27 Jul: Discoveries and Inventions. Children can take a trip GO BEHIND THE SCENES through history’s most exciting inventions and then design something themselves. Sun-Fri AT STAMFORD BRIDGE 10am-6pm. Adult £15; child £9. www.english- heritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham. Fulham Palace This attractive 15th-century building was the To book please call 0371 811 1955, summer retreat of the Bishops of London and is now a museum with a café, art gallery, gardens email tours@chelseafc.com and a programme of themed tours. 5 & 15 Jul: Garden Walk. Guided tour of the garden and or visit chelseafc.com/stadium-tours the rare plants that grow there; check for times. Museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-4.30pm; Sun noon-5pm. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge. Go Ape Alexandra Palace A treetop obstacle course for kids with ladders, bridges and zip lines at this grand palace atop a hill, which has beautiful views of London. Make a day of it and enjoy the boating lake nearby. Daily; check online for times prices. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace. Go Ape Battersea Park Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while safely attached to a reassuring harness. Enthusiastic staff are on hand throughout the three-and-a-half-hour experience. For full terms and conditions, please visit www.chelseafc.com Open daily; closed 3 Jul. Please check online for time and prices. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea 02138 Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park. 30  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 30 15/06/2018 11:04

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SIGHTSEEING Ham House and Gardens Handel & Hendrix in London HMS Belfast One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses is The former homes of both the Anglo-German Permanently moored on the River close to the Thames and has gardens that are said composer George Frideric Handel and American Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving to be haunted. Free 30-min architecture tour daily at guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now noon; free 30-min kitchen garden tours daily at 2pm. composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Climb up and From 13 Jul: Women and Power at Ham House: restored to how it was from 1968 to 1969. 7 Jul: Listen down the ladders to explore the nine decks, and Duchess, Daughter, Socialite, Spy? Discover the life of to the Rameau Ensemble and a soprano as they enjoy 360-degree views from the Flag Desk. Daily Elizabeth Murray, Duchess of Lauderdale. 8 Jul: lead French Baroque singing classes, from 10.45am. 10am-6pm. Adult £15.45; child £7.70. www.iwm. The Lord Chamberlain’s Men Present The Tempest. 19 Jul: Handel’s New Star: Giovanni Carestini. Joanna org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. This all-male theatre group performs Shakespeare’s Harries sings the work of Handel and Carestini. £12; T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge. play in the gardens. From 7pm, £8-£16. General from 1pm. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm; live Baroque music Houses of Parliament admission daily noon-4pm; garden admission daily every Wed and Sat, 11.30am-1.30pm. Check online See the stunning art and architecture inside this 10am-5pm. Adult £11.05; child £5.50. www.national for full details, times and prices. Adult £10; child working parliament building which is also a royal trust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 £5. www.handelhendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. palace. To 6 Oct: Voice and Vote: Women’s Place in 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street. Parliament. Marking 100 years since the first women were given the right to vote in the UK, this interactive exhibition recreates long-lost parts of Parliament and explores the history of women in the House of Commons and the House of Lords (p. 37). Tours every Sat, as well as Mon-Fri from 26 Jul to 31 Aug only. Advance: audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £25.50, child £11; family guided tour adult £18.50, child free. On the day: audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (one child free o.uk per paying adult); guided tour adult £28, child £12. 2.c theo www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, t upa Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. a t F8. Station: Westminster. now Buy The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ceiling carvings. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster. Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters North Greenwich and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart, Fanny Brawne. The Keats and Milton: Paradise Lost exhibition provides an opportunity to see the poet’s response to one of the greatest epic poems ever written, by reading the notes he scribbled across Milton’s verse. The third Sunday of every month is Family Day, during which you can participate in craft, music and poetry activities, even if you don’t have an admission ticket. Check for regular literature events and free family activity days. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm; 30-min guided tour at 3pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead. Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where the Dukes and Duchesses of Cambridge and Sussex reside. Don’t miss Diana: Her Fashion Story, a just-expanded collection dedicated to the style of the ‘people’s princess’. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway. IMAGE © THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adam’s interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandts, Vermeers and Gainsboroughs. Regular family events. Daily 10am-5pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage.org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead. 32  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 32 15/06/2018 11:05

KidZania London To 20 Jul: Zoo Nights. Explore available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Parents take a back seat here as the zoo during the evening as you enjoy special Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s children take charge. Three times the size of exhibitions, music and entertainment; advance Adventure! Please check for times. Adult £35; Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child £30. www.madametussauds.com/london. online booking essential. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult child could want including TV and animation Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. £27.04; child £20. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 studios, a chocolate factory and aviation academy Station: Baker Street. 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town. – there’s even a tattoo parlour! The early-years The Monument area means that younger siblings will have fun, Madame Tussauds This beautiful stone column standing in the heart too. You’ll leave wondering why there wasn’t The celebrated home of life-sized wax figures of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the a KidZania when you were growing up... which depicting famous people from the worlds of 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps is why it hosts occasional adult nights. Daily from entertainment, politics, sport and history, from to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. 10am; call for closing times. Advance: adult from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with the Tower £15; child from £18. On the day: adult from £18; child Star Wars exhibition with 11 sets from the film series Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument. from £38. www.kidzania.co.uk. Westfield London and the chance to stand with the royal family on org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330- Buckingham Palace’s balcony. Joint tickets E10. Station: Monument. 131 3333. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush. The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this scary attraction to life. Tickets also include admission to the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. Check for times and prices. www.the londonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge. The London Dungeon This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and (ahem) smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you thanks to costumed characters. Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment. Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels – don’t forget to share your London Eye memories using #eyelovelondon. Joint tickets available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Shrek’s Adventure! and Madame Tussauds. Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo. ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, founded in 1826, which has more than 750 species. This is home to an immense range of animals, from endangered Sumatran tigers to gorillas from the African rainforest, and Asiatic lions in realistic surroundings resembling an Indian national park. You can also visit the aquarium, IMAGE © THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD penguin beach and the Attenborough Komodo Dragon House, with a dragon prowling its lair. Take a trip to the top of The Shard (p. 36) www.wheretraveler.com   33 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 33 15/06/2018 11:05

SIGHTSEEING The O2 Old Royal Naval College Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions. This Baroque masterpiece, designed by Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and To 17 Jul: The Heart of Hollywood Sir Christopher Wren, is part of the Maritime Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics World Tour. This exhibition in The Quadrant is Greenwich World Heritage Site and the home centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation a showcase for Hollywood memorabilia and of British naval training. Don’t miss the costumed tower. 21-29 Jul: National Park City Week. Join one includes the original, 45ft-high ‘H’ from the characters and tours, as well as the magnificent of two daily, expert-led tours of the park, 11am Hollywood sign. Daily from 10am. Adult £23.25; ceiling in the Painted Hall. During a temporary & 1pm. Adult £8; child £3. Call T: 020-8536 2716 child £12.75. To 9 Sep: Dawn of Super Heroes. Take conservation project, you can see the ceiling to book. Please check website for sporting a look inside the world of DC Comics creations up close on a 50-minute tour from an elevated events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. such as Superman, Batman, Wonder Woman and observation deck: adult £10; child £5. Check for www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Mr Freeze, with displays of costumes, props, sets regular guided tours. There’s a museum about Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. and more. Thur-Tue (& Wed 25 Jul) from 9.30am. the history of Greenwich at the Visitor Centre. Off map. Station: Stratford. Tickets £9-£18. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org. Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical Station: North Greenwich. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich. research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda, while the Treetop Walkway offers great views. Following a comprehensive, five-year refurbishment, the Temperate House has just reopened – the biggest Victorian glasshouse in the world houses 10,000 temperate plants. Children can follow Gnomus the giant gnome around the Temperate House as he shares stories about the plant collection inside. To 31 Aug: Join the free Temperate Treasures tour daily at noon & 2.30pm, to learn more about Kew’s temperate plants. Daily 10am-7pm. Adult £17; child £5; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, BE PART OF Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens. LONDON’S The Royal Institution of Great Britain This Grade I-listed Georgian building houses a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday SKYLINE Museum and you can see scientists at work, too. Check the website for its programme of talks. 2-8 Jul: Summer Science Exhibition. A chance to view 22 exhibits which give an overview of the UK’s current major projects, on topics including climate research, digital innovations and the latest developments in medicine. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park. The Royal Mews This beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses. Witness daily working life and learn about the mews’ history with the free multimedia guide, which includes games, a video of the Diamond Jubilee State Coach’s first-ever journey and interactive, 360-degree photography of the Gold State Coach’s interior. Children will enjoy learning how to harness a horse, as well as the busy programme of art sessions; check online for details. Mon-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £11; child £6.40; under-fives free. www.royalcollection.org.uk/royalmews. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria. The Royal Observatory The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium, which has astronomy workshops and Observatory tours. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and see the Prime Meridian Line. To 22 Jul: Astronomy Photographer BOOK TODAY AND SAVE AT LONDONEYE.COM of the Year. Inspirational space photography. The planetarium has just been refurbished, while its daily programme includes the new show Phantom of the See londoneye.com for full terms. Save up to 10% when tickets are booked online 24hrs+ in advance. COCA-COLA and the CONTOUR BOTTLE are registered trademarks of The Coca-Cola Company. © 2018 DreamWorks Animation L.L.C. The London Eye is conceived Universe, exploring dark matter and the Big Bang; adult £8; child £5.50. Meridian Line and Observatory and designed by Marks Barfield Architects. Content shown has been altered for the sake of communications and some images have been captured with professional cameras. All images and copy are for illustrative purposes only. daily 10am-5pm. Adult £10; child £6.50. www.rmg. co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/Cutty Sark. 34  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 34 15/06/2018 11:05

SEA LIFE London Tower Bridge Exhibition Tower of London One of Europe’s largest aquariums This breathtaking bridge, which was designed in This historic landmark includes the Bloody with 500 species of global marine life and 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home walk-through tank tunnels, including a glass (not to be confused with its less grand, but much of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by walkway above a school of sharks. You can also older neighbour, London Bridge). You can also ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). The Last Days of snorkel with sharks (£130 including admission), tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable Anne Boleyn. Step back into 1536 and follow the while the new Rainforest Adventure attraction guide and take part in a yoga class on the glass last 17 days of Anne Boleyn, second wife of King is your chance to see snapping turtles and the walkways, 42m above the River Thames. Check Henry VIII, in a new outdoor theatre performance world’s largest species of spider. Check for times online for details of when the bridge is lifted to on the South Lawn. Fri-Tue, 11am & 2pm. Book and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola allow vessels to sail through – it is a spectacular ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds sight (usually twice daily). Joint tickets with of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london. The Monument available. Daily 10am-5.30pm. are free). Tue-Sat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am- County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. www.towerbridge.org.uk. 5.30pm. Adult £26.80; child £12.70. www.hrp. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill. E11. Station: Tower Hill. Shrek’s Adventure! Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairy-tale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with the Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo. St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. The vibrant waterside destination is lined with regular markets, shops, galleries such as Artopia and The Alexander Miles Gallery and restaurants including CAU, Tom’s Kitchen, Bravas Tapas and Emilia’s Crafted Pasta. www.skdocks. co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill. St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brass-rubbing centre, live classical music (some free) and an alfresco café in its courtyard. Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. To 31 Aug: Lingering Ghosts. This photography exhibition questions how the UK treats migrants fleeing dangerous lives. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm; 19 Jul 11.15am-6pm. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-the- fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020- 7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross. St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its imposing monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. The price of admission also includes a multimedia guide and tours, subject to availability on the day. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls. co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020- 7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s. 18 Stafford Terrace This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife, two children and their live-in servants, who lived here from 1875. A highlight is the costumed actor-led tour every Saturday from 11am, which is a dramatic account of life at Stafford Terrace based on old diaries. Open Wed, Sat & Sun; pre-booked Discover beauty Only 30 minutes from central London tours 11am, drop-in 2pm-5.30pm, or late tour from Visit the world’s greatest Friends of Kew go free Kew Gardens 7pm on third Wed of every month. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford botanic garden Kew Bridge Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington. www.wheretraveler.com   35 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 35 15/06/2018 11:06

SIGHTSEEING Up at The O2 The View from The Shard Warner Bros. Studio Tour London Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe Explore behind the scenes of the which will take you on an uplifting expedition across in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a clear day legendary Harry Potter films in The Making of the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at the you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t Harry Potter tour – it is a fabulous insight into top you can enjoy 360-degree views of the River see four major landmarks you can visit The Shard filmmaking. Visitors can witness iconic sets from Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. again for free. Choose from different experiences, the film series including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Climb and Yoga Experience. Enjoy a 90-minute climb including a Champagne Experience, a Private Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. experience and a 50-minute yoga class on the Guided Tour and the Day & Night Tour. To 22 Jul: Behind the Seams. This roof. The Museum of London Docklands and Up at The Alternatively, you can make a Saturday night extra one-hour experience introduces visitors to O2. Climb over the roof with a Museum of London of it at a silent disco on 14 or 28 Jul from 10pm the work of the costume department. Weekends Docklands guide, then enjoy a talk at the summit (£37.50). Daily 10am-10pm. Advance adult £24.95, only. Adult £65; child £55 (includes general on the Docklands’ history. Check for times and child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. admission). To 23 Sep: The Goblet of Fire. See the wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London goblet as it returns to the Great Hall for the first The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. time since filming ended, alongside costumes 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich. Station: London Bridge. and props from the fourth film. Check for times. Adult £41; child £33. Booking essential. www.wb studiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus. Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.40; child £3.20. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. WELCOME TO Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also BUCKINGHAM houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. In June, the abbey unveiled its first major structural addition in more than a quarter of a millennium, The PALACE Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. Housed in the medieval triforium and offering panoramic views of the surrounding area, its four displays collectively tell the story of the abbey through more than 300 objects. Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; 21 July – 30 September 2018 Sat 9am-4pm. Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with half-price entry. Adult £22; child £9. 10 weeks only www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park. WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has a Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Visitors can watch the otters and birds being fed every day, while there are also daily ‘Spotlight’ talks on various subjects. 21-29 Jul: Dragonfly Week. Discover the reserve’s 22 species and meet members of the British Dragonfly Society, which has organised a week of talks and walks about these beautiful insects. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £12.72; child £7.72. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes. EVENTS & FESTIVALS Sail Royal Greenwich 4-8 Jul: This dramatic gathering provides the opportunity to take an old-fashioned cruise down the River Thames in a tall ship. Expect an international array of these massive ships, best known for their high masts and striking sails, sailing from Royal Arsenal Pier to Canary Wharf. On selected evenings, ticketholders can also enjoy a firework display on board. www.sailroyal greenwich.co.uk. Royal Arsenal Pier, Marlborough Rd, SE18 6TL. T: 020-3040 2350. Off map. Station: Woolwich Arsenal. 36  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 36 15/06/2018 11:33

SIGHTSEEING RIVER TRIPS City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river Circular Cruise Westminster Thames between Westminster, London Eye, cruise. Daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on Tower and Greenwich Piers. River Red Rover is an £6.50. Discounted joint tickets with the London hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. The Eye available. www.londoneye.com/river-cruise. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo. of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. with live music, daily from 7.30pm. Other cruises A complete circular cruise will take an hour, but also available. 4-7 Jul: Fireworks Cruise. Leaving MBNA Thames Clippers you can depart and return at any of the London from Tower Pier, take in the magnificent views of The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, piers it calls at. Among the sights you will see the Thames as you cruise past the flotilla of eight with departures from major London piers every along the way are the London Eye, the Houses tall ships. The evening ends with a firework display 20 minutes (p. 26). The boats set off from 22 piers. of Parliament, Tate Modern and the Tower of in front of the Royal Naval College and Cutty Sark, Discounts with Oyster cards and contactless London – the skipper will point out all the iconic or at Woolwich. Check the website for times and payment. Download its free in:flow app, which landmarks. Daily departures 11am-6.30pm. prices. www.citycruises.com. T: 020-7740 0400. uses GPS tracking to find out your location, and Adult single £10.25, return £15.25; child single £6.50, return £10. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster. Making their voices heard In 1918, following a fierce campaign by suffragettes, the first women won the right to vote. In this centenary year, the building in which UK women’s rights were passed into law is honouring this change. The Houses of Parliament’s Voice and Vote: Women’s Place in Parliament (to 6 Oct; p. 32) explores SUFFRAGETTE FLAG © UK PARLIAMENT AND MARK DUFFY this struggle. On display in Westminster Hall (a magnificent sight in itself ) are long-lost parts of the building, which have been rebuilt especially for the occasion. These represent the women-only sections in Parliament, including the Lady Members’ Room, which was created when female Parliamentarians began working. The exhibition gives a great insight into women’s place in Parliament. www.wheretraveler.com   37 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 37 19/06/2018 11:01

SIGHTSEEING provides real-time audio explanation of the sights. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off advance Thamesjet Try Thames Rush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled TOURS & GUIDED WALKS adult £16.30, child £8.15; on the day adult £19.50, experience – the most extreme ride on the river BEE Midtown Guided Walks child £9.75; children under five travel free. Approximately 15 free, themed walking tours – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome Single journeys from £4.60. www.mbnathames per month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and aquabatics all in one. The experience takes you clippers.com. T: 020-7001 2200. Holborn, an area also known as Midtown. Most past some of London’s most iconic sights, including walks do not require pre-booking. The full walks Thames River Services the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, the London Eye programme is published near the bottom of Hop-on, hop-off service with live audio commentary. and HMS Belfast. Once you are past Tower Bridge, BEE Midtown’s homepage; tours start at various Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10am- the speed picks up. Departs from Westminster Pier. points in the area. www.bee-midtown.org. 5pm; from Greenwich to Westminster 11am-6pm. From 10am, but depends on the tide so please T: 020-7078 7077. Please check for prices (35 per cent online discount check for times. Minimum height requirement Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices.london. 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. www.thamesjet.com. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster. T: 020-7740 0400. Station: Westminster. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £37; child £19. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753. THE QUEEN’S GALLERY Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk BUCKINGHAM PALACE from Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, the Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade, taking in areas which can’t be reached by bus. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. Daily 11am. www.bigbustours.com. Departs from Big Bus stop 15, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. E7. Station: Charing Cross. Billingsgate Roman House & Baths Beneath the curious cobbled pathways of the Square Mile lies a rich Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years of building, fires and 8 JUNE – 14 OCTOBER 2018 bombings. Lower Thames Street is home to one of Roman London’s most fascinating remains. The Billingsgate Roman Bathhouse was discovered Includes A Prince’s Tour of India 1875–6 in 1848, and is now open to the public. Explore and Four Centuries of South Asian this fascinating insight into ancient life in the Paintings and Manuscripts City on a 45-minute guided tour and discover the remains of the Roman Bathhouse which lies hidden beneath offices. Adult £8; child £6. Please check for times. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill. Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who option – on which you’ll see a Tardis and locations from the films and TV series. There’s even a tour designed for fans of TV’s Downton Abbey. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621. City of London Guides Walks A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street – the home of journalism – to Smithfield Market and City gardens. Free-£12. www.cityof londonguides.com. Departure points vary. Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratford- upon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as all the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777. www.royalcollection.org.uk Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, +44 (0)303 123 7301 the London expert offers quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle. 38  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 38 15/06/2018 11:07

SIGHTSEEING The company offers an unrivalled range of tours London Literary Pub Crawl London Magical Tours and services. Please check for times and prices. See where the giants of the London literary world Award-winning provider of private and scheduled www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-led group tours to London and its surroundings. T: 020-7630 2039. and arranged by the not-for-profit charity The Discover the UK with your own tour team: a guide and extra chauffeur, travelling in a private vehicle. Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it visits pubs and bars associated Multilingual guides are available in all languages. See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The with the British film industry and contemporary www.londonmagicaltours.com. Departure points Essential Tour includes an English-speaking writers. Among the writers featured are Dylan vary. T: 0870-489 0156. guide who will describe the sights, or there are multilingual audio commentary tours, during Thomas, Virginia Woolf, Anthony Burgess, George London Tailored Tours which you can hop-on and hop-off the bus. Orwell and Charles Dickens. Thur & Sat only, please Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners. One-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets. Check for check website for times. Tickets £24, booking Themed tours include Borough Market, Harry Potter, prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points strongly advised. www.londonliterarypubcrawl.com. London Sports and A Royal Morning in London. vary. T: 020-7630 2039. Station: Various. 12 Fouberts Place, off Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. Check for times and prices. www.londontailored T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus. tours.com. T: 020-3289 0542. Hairy Goat Photography Tours Offering exploratory photography tours alongside personal, tailor-made or regular group workshops, the capital’s acclaimed Hairy Goat offers daytime and evening touring options. Discover back streets, pubs, alleys, churches and the finer details to be found on new, old and grand architecture, as well as the street and river scenes that make London a joy to capture on camera. www.hairygoat.net. Departure points vary. T: 07540-832771. Jack the Ripper Tour Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer Jack the Ripper. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East station. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East. Kia Oval Tours Tour the famous cricket ground, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches. See the architecture, history and famous sporting faces. Please check for times and prices. www.kiaoval.com. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map. Station: Oval. London Chocolate Tours Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this hour-long tour by a former cocoa trader. Along the way you’ll learn how chocolate is made. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm; tours last two hours 30 minutes. £15 for Where London readers (usually £39). Departs from Green Park station, at the exit closest to The Ritz hotel. www.tourguides.org.uk. T: 020-8526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park. The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including Tower of London, St Paul’s and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour – or be brave and go on an 18-minute ‘open door’ ride (£400 per person). Prices start at £200 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction. London Horror Tours Be spooked by ghost stories and tales of Jack the Ripper, Sweeney Todd and the Kray Twins on tours run by the actor and entertainer Dr Jack. Please visit its Facebook page for more information, and call for times and prices. Departure points vary. T: 07722-247660. www.wheretraveler.com   39 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 39 15/06/2018 11:18

SIGHTSEEING London Walks sightseeing interactive and fun. Each guided Pass, which grants access to all three walks over London’s oldest walking tour company offers activity is balanced by opportunities to get a 48-hour period, costs £18. Alternatively, Original more than 300 walks. Each takes around two creative, chill out, play and meet new friends. Tours has launched a series of additional walking hours, departure points vary and there’s no need www.neverlandchildrenstours.co.uk. International tours available Fri-Sun: Picture London at 11.30am; to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter House, 24 Holborn Viaduct, EC1A 2BN. Royal London at 2.30pm and Haunted London at and ghost walks, London Walks offers routes T: 020-3239 5059. D9. Station: Chancery Lane. 6pm. £5 each, or £10 for all three walks. www.the around London’s ‘villages’, including Kensington originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. Original London Sightseeing Walk T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross. and Hampstead. Adult £10; child free when Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Original accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar Square The Original Tour Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978. With more than 65 years’ experience, these live on Cockspur Street. Choose from Changing the and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take Neverland Children’s Tours Guard at 10am; Rock ‘n’ Roll at 1pm and Jack the you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to Neverland Children’s Tours offers fully supervised Ripper at 4pm (from The Original Tour bus stop hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. Its activities and adventures for children aged eight at Tower Hill). £9 per walk, or free with an Original original 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and above, with the aim of making London London Sightseeing Tour ticket. An Explore Walks and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £32, child £15; 48-hour adult £42, child £20. www.the originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: WINNER OF THE TOP HORROR ATTRACTION IN THE WORLD Charing Cross. Royal Albert Hall Tours WORLDWIDE ATTRACTION AWARDS Take the one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Tours daily 10am-4pm; no tour 9-10 Jul. Adult £14; child £7. For a limited time only, supplement your tour with the 30-minute RAH150 Tour, which details the planned building works that will update the venue for its 150th anniversary in 2021. Mon-Fri 11am-3pm; £6 extra. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020- 7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington. Royal Opera House One of the world’s leading opera venues, also home to the Royal Ballet company. The Velvet, Gilt and Glamour Tour takes you into the auditorium and the Royal Retiring Room, accompanied by stories of the most famous stars to sing there. 4pm on 11, 24 & 30 Jul. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. Tours last 45 minutes. www.roh.org.uk/tours. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden. See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last OFFER! 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm; 8pm; 8.30pm; 9.15pm; EXCLUSIVE 9.45pm and 10.15pm. Adult £21; child £12. £5 OFF www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, CELEBRATING W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park. WINNING THE UK’S Shakespeare’s Globe VOUCHER S1C0ARCIEOSNTSECATTRACTION FOR This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has the city’s only thatched roof, while the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse UTIVE YEARS! W L.7.18 is a candle-lit performance space. Tours begin every 30 minutes, Mon 9am-5pm; Tue-Sat 9am-12.30pm; Sun 9am-11.30am. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespeares globe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. TAKE AN INTERACTIVE JOURNEY T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars. Twizy Tours THROUGH LONDONS SPOOKY HISTORY Rent a two-seater, electric Renault Twizy and discover the sights at your own pace. These tiny cars make it easy to navigate the streets, with TheLondonBridgeExperience.com GPS-guided tours. Tour stories to choose from include Pomp & Circumstance, Rule Britannia and Royal Flash. Please check online for prices. www.twizytours.com. Apcoa Parking Car Park, The London Bridge Experience, 2-4 Tooley Street, London Bridge, London SE1 2SY 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. T: 07376-428363. D5. Station: Marble Arch. FREE audio guides available Wembley Stadium Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour *This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other discount or promotional offer. takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with 40  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 40 15/06/2018 11:18

SIGHTSEEING a replica of the FA Cup. From 10am; check for Blenheim Palace Chartwell dates. Adult £22; child £14. www.wembleystadium. See three centuries of treasures in magnificent The family home of wartime Prime Minister Sir com/tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800- State Rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace Winston Churchill was actually bought by the 169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park. of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 National Trust and maintained on behalf of the acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal Westways Carriage Horses nation, while Churchill and his wife Clementine gardens. 8 Jul: Rally of the Giants. An all-day showcase were still living in it – the house is still decorated Get collected from your hotel and experience the of American heritage cars, trucks and bikes. sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. as it was in the 1930s. You’ll find a lovely kitchen From 18 Jul: Yves Klein. More than 50 artworks Tours are in either a four or six-seater carriage with garden and glorious woodland to explore, too. by the French artist, including paintings, sculptures an adjustable hood depending on the weather. Mon-Fri 11.30am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult and large installations. Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm; £500 per carriage. www.westwayscarriagehorses. £14.40; child £7.20. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ park daily 9am-6.30pm or dusk; formal gardens daily co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155. chartwell. Mapleton Rd, Westerham, Kent, 10am-6pm. Adult £26; child £14.50. www.blenheim Yonda palace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. TN16 1PS. T: 01732-868381. Off map. Station: On a Yonda tour, you’ll feel like a real Londoner T: 01993-810530. Off map. Paddington to Oxford, London Bridge or Victoria to Edenbridge or as you drive a car around the capital’s top sights then bus S3. Oxted, then taxi. and little-known cobbled streets. The car is fitted with technology that guides you along well-researched routes, giving turn-by-turn directions and a fun, informative commentary along the way based on your location. It can even cope with road closures, while the Congestion Charge is included in the price. Tours last 90 mins. £30 per tour in a two-seat convertible car; £40 per tour in a four-seat car, with a clear panoramic roof. SEE FURTHER THAN www.goyonda.com. Q-Park, Park Lane, W1K 7AN. T: 020-3621 5662. E6. Station: Marble Arch. OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates THE EYE CAN SEE back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities and natural curiosities to the University of Oxford. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. To 22 Jul: America’s Cool Modernism. Early 20th-century American art, including work by Georgia O’Keeffe and Arthur Dove. To 9 Sep: The Tale of Prince Vessantara. Explore the final birth story of the Buddha. To 14 Oct: A Century of Women in Chinese Art. See depictions of women in China over the past 100 years. Tue- Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm; last Fri of each month 10am-8pm. Free admission; charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Book in advance and save Beaumont St, Oxford, Speak to your hotel concierge today OX1 2PH. T: 01865- theviewfromtheshard.com 278000. Off map. Station: Paddington Open daily from 10am till late IMAGE © VISIT LONDON to Oxford. London Bridge See the Changing the Guard (p. 28) www.wheretraveler.com   41 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 41 15/06/2018 11:19

SIGHTSEEING Hampton Court Palace season of Tudor cooking demonstrations, events To 1 Jul: Hever in Bloom. Take a guided tour of Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry and talks transports visitors back to 1538, as the the English Rose Gardens, take part in a floristry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set kitchen prepares a feast for Henry VIII’s son, workshop and enjoy grand floral displays in 60 acres of parkland on the river. Visit the Tudor Edward. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £22.70; child throughout the castle. 28-29 Jul: Tudor Tales & kitchens, which would have prepared feasts for £11.35. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Jousting. A weekend of jousting tournaments and the king and all his courtiers, and see Henry’s Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. spectacle, which includes the opportunity to get Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court. dressed up in a suit of armour or as a princess. grand State Apartments including the Great Hall. Daily 10.30am-6pm; castle opens noon. Adult 2-8 Jul: RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show. The Hever Castle and Gardens £17.25; child £9.75. www.hevercastle.co.uk. Hever, annual floral celebration returns, promising fun for Dating back to the 13th century, this beautiful Edenbridge, Kent, TN8 7NG. T: 01732-865224. Where London the whole family. Visitors can browse stalls selling castle was the childhood home of Henry VIII’s Off map. Station: London Victoria or London 118w x 190h gardening products and food, while the Country second wife, Anne Boleyn. The Tudor castle has August Living Pavilion is the perfect place to pick up Bridge to Edenbridge, then taxi. magnificent interiors, the work of the Astor family treats for friends, family and your home (p. 44). during the 20th century. Outside, the castle’s Leeds Castle To 2 Sep: No One Does Feasting Like the Tudors. This gardens feature statues and a lake for boat rides. This fairy-tale 900-year-old castle was a Norman Where London Half Page stronghold, a Jacobean country house and a Georgian mansion, among other things. It has a moat, gardens and parkland, where you can lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, and see 100 species of birds in the aviary. Look out for falconry displays in the Birds of Prey Centre, behind the maze, with tiny American kestrels and a Russian steppe eagle. Grounds and garden daily ORDER, ORDER 10am-6pm; castle 10.30am-5.30pm. Adult £25.50; child £17.50. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted. The Original Tour Windsor & Eton Book your tour today Explore the beautiful town of Windsor and nearby Eton College, using 11 bus stops incorporating the castle grounds and following the river. Hop-on and hop-off to discover this famous market town and its centuries-old royal history – Eton College is where Princes William and Harry were educated. Departures every 30 mins. Adult £13; child £7. Combined package with The Original Tour London (24 hours London, 24 hours Windsor) adult £45; child £22. www.theoriginaltour.com. Theatre Royal Windsor, Thames St, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1PS. T: 020-8877 1722. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside. Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll its formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable tearoom. Regular after-dark tours, park runs, yoga every Sun and gardening clubs. 7 Jul: Big Camp. Unique camping experience with games and activities. Explore the natural play trail, stretch out with some outdoor yoga, or join expert rangers in tracking bats and other nocturnal creatures. After sunset enjoy toasted marshmallows, stargazing and stories round the campfire. Garden daily 10am-5pm; house daily 11am-5pm. Adult £11.40; child £5.70. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth. Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the spectacular State Apartments with ornate plasterwork ceilings and a huge collection of Brussels tapestries and the majestic Throne Room. The Great Gallery is the largest room in the palace, and is where Scottish residents receive their awards. Mary, Queen of Scots’ Chambers, where the ill-fated queen lived, still has her bedchamber. Daily 020 7219 4114 9.30am-6pm; closed until 7 Jul. Adult £14; child £8.10. www.royalcollection.org.uk/ palaceofholyroodhouse. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley. 42  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 42 15/06/2018 11:19

JB2602 WHERE London AUG RS LoRes.pdf 1 20/06/2017 15:48 Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive, early-morning tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. Daily 9am-8pm. Adult £19.50; child £11.70. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.C Syon Park M This stunning Palladian mansion set in parkland is Y home to the Duke of Northumberland. Don’t miss the incredible interiors, Grade I-listed landscaped CM gardens and the Great Conservatory – you will feel like you are in the deep countryside even though MY Syon Park is just nine miles from central London. CY 21-29 Jul: London National Park City Week – Tree Trail. Gardens daily 10.30am-5pm; House Wed, ThurCMY& Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £13; child £6. www.syonpark. co.uk. Syon Park, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. K T: 020-8560 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane. Waddesdon Manor Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th Come and explore Hamleys Toy Shop! century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and an aviary. 14 Jul: Artisan Food Market. With over 50,000 Toys across 7 floors! Browse the best in quality, fresh, seasonal produce all locally sourced – the market aims to support 188-196 Regent Street, London W1B 5BT local, small-scale, independent food producers. To 22 Jul: The Silver Caesars: A Renaissance Mystery. For the first time in more www.hamleys.com/explore #HAMLEYS than 150 years, see some of the most enigmatic treasures of the Renaissance: a set of 12 European, silver-gilt standing cups known as the Aldobrandini Tazze. House Wed-Fri noon-4pm, Sat-Sun 11am- 4pm; grounds Wed-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. House tickets adult £19.80, child £9.90; grounds- only tickets adult £10.80, child £5.40. House tickets must be bought in advance; grounds-only tickets may be purchased on arrival. www.waddesdon. org.uk. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury. Warwick Castle Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Don’t miss the Horrible Histories maze and displays of medieval weaponry, as well as regular falconry displays. The dungeon, with actors, is a highlight. 7-8 & 14-15 Jul: Wars of the Roses Live Weekends. This live-action, family jousting show features an epic battle for the English throne as the Wars of the Roses unfold. Please check for times. Castle adult £27, child £24; castle & dungeon adult £32, child £28. www.warwick- castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. T: 0871-265 2000. Off map. Station: Warwick. Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with Victorian paintings and sculptures. Visit the Tea Shop, then see the Grade I-listed Watts Chapel. To 8 Jul: Art for All Exhibition 2018. To mark 10 years of this initiative, view (and purchase) artworks and hear stories about the disadvantaged artists who have benefited from the scheme. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £11.50 (Tue £5.75); child free. www.wattsgallery.org.uk. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi. www.wheretraveler.com   43 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 43 15/06/2018 11:19

SIGHTSEEING Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s “One of the oldest inhabited castle. This is where the Duke and Duchess of Sussex wed in May and where Princess Eugenie (ninth in line to the throne) will best things marry Jack Brooksbank in October. Includes State Apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing the Guard I’ve ever done” alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 9.30am- 5.15pm. Adult £21.20; child £12.30. www.royal collection.org.uk/windsorcastle. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside. Woburn Abbey and Gardens Set in a 3,000-acre deer park, this historic abbey has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years and is currently occupied by the 15th duke and his family. Tour the abbey to find out more about its family history, art and antiques, then stroll around its Repton-inspired TripAdvisor Review gardens. 7-8 Jul: Take a horse-drawn carriage tour of the grounds and gardens. To 28 Oct: Humphry Repton: Art and Nature for the Duke of Bedford. Exhibition exploring the 19th-century working relationship between the gardener and the 6th Helicopter Sightseeing Tours Duke of Bedford. Gardens, deer park, tea room and shop daily 10am-6pm; abbey daily 11am-5pm. Advance booking only at Gardens and deer park adult £8; child £5.25. Abbey, www.thelondonhelicopter.com gardens and deer park adult £17.50; child £8.50. www.woburnabbey.co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525-290333. Off map. Station: Call 020 7887 2626 or ask St Pancras to Flitwick. your concierge about booking Westminster Abbey So many secrets waiting to Beautiful blooms The RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower be revealed Show (from 2-8 Jul; p. 42), hosted by the Royal Horticultural Society, is the world’s biggest annual flower show. It’s the ideal RHS HAMPTON COURT PALACE FLOWER SHOW © RHS/LUKE MACGREGOR The Queen’s Diamond opportunity to combine an exploration of Jubilee Galleries, the royal Tudor palace, once occupied by Henry VIII, with a chance to see some of hidden for 700 years England’s most beautiful flora. The show features exhibits such as a meadow of lavender, violets and lilacs. Evolve: Through the Roots of Time takes showgoers on a journey to discover Earth’s plants, from the barren landscapes more than 500 million years ago up to the present day. Book online today for fast track discounted entry Other attractions include the Festival of Roses, where you can discover these Faith at the heart of the nation westminster-abbey.org luscious flowers, or simply stroll around the grounds for a summer experience. 44  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 44 15/06/2018 11:22

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night See By Night Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel at 19:30, 20:00, 20:30, 21:15, 21:45 and 22:15 Spectacular live guided Adult - £21 tours of London by night Child - £12 Private tours available for groups day or night Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744 www.seelondonbynight.com Sightseeing Coach Tours l Open Top Bus Tours Warner Bros. Studio Tour London l London Bike Tours Attraction Tickets l Groups l UK & Paris Rail Trips 020 7630 2039 www.goldentours.com RHS HAMPTON COURT PALACE FLOWER SHOW © RHS/LUKE MACGREGOR TM & © 2017 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. www.wheretraveler.com   45 WL JULY SIGHTSEEING.indd 45 15/06/2018 11:22

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE Drawings from down the rabbit hole Curiouser and curiouser! Neil Simpson is impressed with a new exhibition about Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland Why is a raven like a writing desk? Unfortunately, we have no idea, but we know of at least one person who does understand the madness of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland: John Vernon Lord. The British illustrator has created many beautiful drawings for Lewis Carroll’s books during his career, and they form part of an exciting new exhibition: John Vernon Lord: Illustrating Carroll and Joyce at the House of Illustration (from 13 Jul). Lord has made a name for himself with his intricate pen-and-ink drawings that are filled with inventive twists and dark humour – a perfect match for the tone of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. Born in 1939, Lord began working as a book illustrator aged 28, and he was Professor of Illustration at the University of Brighton for 38 years. This year, he won a V&A Book Illustration Award for his work on the groundbreaking novel Ulysses, by the Irish writer James Joyce. This show concentrates on his recent projects: illustrating Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, Through the Looking-Glass and The Hunting of the Snark , all by Carroll, and Joyce’s novels Finnegans Wake and Ulysses. Lord says of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland: ‘Illustrators who attempt to provide images for classics must try to break away from convention. Readers, who are familiar with the stories, are often keen to see them anew.’ His playful creations capture Carroll’s psychedelic world, but Lord’s drawing style, featuring dense rows of black lines, adds a darkness that also conveys Wonderland’s sinister side. If you want to visit more drawing destinations, head to The Courtauld Gallery, a gallery inside Somerset House that’s dedicated to drawings (p. 52). As well as seeing masterpieces by Michelangelo, Rubens, Cézanne and Turner, you can also catch the exhibition Artists at Work (to 15 Jul). It showcases artists ALICE’S ADVENTURES IN WONDERLAND © JOHN VERNON LORD who, during the past 400 years, have depicted themselves drawing – no doubt to prove just how hard they were working. Meanwhile, The Cartoon Museum‘s latest exhibition, Fifty Glorious Shows!, looks back at its previous exhibitions, covering 170 British originals from the worlds of cartoons, comics, graphic novels and animation (p. 48). If you’d rather sip a drink between sketches, visit Scarfes Bar at Rosewood London (p. 82). This hotel den in Holborn is named after Gerald Scarfe, whose caricatures decorate the walls. For full listing, turn to p. 48 46  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY MUSEUMS GALLERIES.indd 46 15/06/2018 10:10

Explore the historic fight for votes for women through remarkable artefacts and personal stories. museumoflondon.org.uk/ votesforwomen #VotesforWomen Sponsored by FREE ENTRY Barbican, St Paul’s, Moorgate WL MUSEUM OF London.indd 1 11/06/2018 17:20

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89 MUSEUMS The Cartoon Museum Museum dedicated to British cartoons, caricature The Design Museum Leading museum of contemporary design and Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum and comic art from the 18th century to today. architecture. To 12 Aug: Hope to Nope: Graphics and Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour To 2 Sep: 50 Glorious Shows! Looking back at its Politics 2008-2018. Celebrating the role of graphic for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms, previous exhibitions (p. 46). Tue-Sun 10.30am- design in modern politics. Please check for times tunnel onto the pitch, the dugout and more, or 5.30pm. Adult £7; child free. www.cartoon and prices. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Both museum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. include a visit to the museum for an overview of T: 020-7580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington. the club’s 125-year history, and the club’s FA Cups. Please check for times and prices. www.arsenal. Charles Dickens Museum The Fan Museum com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. The former home of Victorian novelist Unusual museum with examples from T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal. Charles Dickens, where he wrote the 12th century to the present day. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. classics including Oliver Twist. Bank of England Museum Decorated in Victorian style, it Adult £5; child £3. www.thefan Explore the story of the bank from its foundation Chelsea FC is the museum.org.uk. 12 Crooms displays his personal possessions. in 1694, to its status today as the UK’s central bank. only London football Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Please check for events and From 23 Jul: Gold Rush! A child-friendly team to have won Off map. Station: Cutty Sark. themed Dickensian walks. treasure hunt (p. 52). Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Admission the Champions free. www.bankofengland.co.uk. Threadneedle St, Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; League Fashion and Textile Museum child £4.50. www.dickensmuseum.com. Highlighting contemporary fashion, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 textiles and jewellery from 1947 to today. Benjamin Franklin House 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square. Please check for times. Adult £9; child free. This charming 18th-century townhouse is the www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. last remaining home of the American diplomat, Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge. Founding Father and musician. 4 Jul: Independence Interactive guided tour of the home of Chelsea Day Tours. All 30-minute tours are paired with cake FC, with a look inside the dressing rooms, the Florence Nightingale Museum press box, pitchside tunnel and more. Tours Museum highlighting the work of the pioneering and a glass of bubbly (book online). Please check daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for 19th-century British nurse and health reformer, for tour times and prices. www.benjaminfranklin closures and monthly tours led by past stars known as ‘The Lady with the Lamp’. Daily 10am-5pm. house.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 of the game (from £70). Museum open daily Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale. 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross. 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7188 The British Museum £15 (£9). www.chelseafc.com/tours. Stamford 4400. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster. Unrivalled collection of antiquities, with permanent Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. The Foundling Museum displays and treasures. Regular talks and events. Station: Fulham Broadway. Britain’s original home for abandoned children, To 29 Jul: Rodin and the Art of founded in 1739. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am- Ancient Greece. Works by the French master Churchill War Rooms 5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundling sculptor are displayed alongside the Ancient Explore the fortified secret bunker and the museum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. Greek pieces that inspired him. Sat-Thur Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square. 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission where prime minister Sir Winston free; charges for some exhibitions. Churchill worked during World War II. The Garden Museum www.britishmuseum.org. Great Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £21; child £10.50. Located in an historic church, with a 17th-century Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles knot garden and exhibitions related to garden 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. design. Check for times. Adult £10; child £2.50 Court Road/Russell Square. Station: Westminster. (when accompanied by an adult). www.garden museum.org.uk. Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7LB. T: 020-7401 8865. F5. Station: Lambeth North. The Guards Museum The history and heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards: Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards, which watch over the Royal LANTERNFISH, GONICHTHYS BARNESI © THE TRUSTEES OF THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM Palaces. It’s a great insight into the Changing the Guard. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £8; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster. Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon that of Victorian tea trader Frederick John Horniman, including an aquarium and a huge selection of musical instruments. Its World Gallery reveals 600sqm of new exhibition Nightcrawlers space (p. 50). Please check for times and prices. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. Dive into the planet’s darkest corners and deepest sea beds at the Natural History T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill. Museum’s latest exhibition, Life in the Dark (from 13 Jul; p. 50). Embarking on House of Illustration a rare journey through Earth’s eeriest depths, museumgoers can discover how The UK’s only public gallery dedicated to illustration. animals such as foxes and bats use their heightened senses to survive their dark From 13 Jul: John Vernon Lord: Illustrating habitats. If you’re struggling to imagine what it’s like to enter a bat cave, or sink Carroll and Joyce. An exploration of the illustrator’s into the sea’s black voids, this has the answer: visitors will enter immersive recent works of intricate pen-and-ink drawings (p. 46). Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £7.50; child £4. environments that recreate the experiences of entering a cave. As the exhibition’s www.houseofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, professor Geoff Boxshall says: ‘Even in the absence of light, life has found a way.’ N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras. 48  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY MUSEUMS GALLERIES.indd 48 15/06/2018 10:11

Open up to Wimbledon Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Roger Federer’s title-winning whites? Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn New Virtual Reality experience about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm also take the behind the scenes tour of Nearest Underground: Southfields the grounds and explore the home of The Museum Building, The All England tennis, including Centre Court, for a Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, truly inspirational visit. Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE Supported by T: 020 8946 6131 wimbledon.com/museum WL WIMBLEDON.indd 1 11/06/2018 17:21

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Household Cavalry Museum See the ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Troopers with their horses work in the original 18th-century stables, with rare treasures on display. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard on Horse Guards. Mon-Sat 11am; Sun 10am. Museum daily 10am-6pm. Adult £8; child £6. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment. Imperial War Museum Huge displays relating to global conflicts from World War I to conflicts today, particularly those involving Britain. Don’t miss the powerful Holocaust Exhibition, and the art collection in the First World War Galleries. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm. org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North. Jack the Ripper Museum The globe in a gallery Within this Victorian house you’ll discover the We were already big fans of the Horniman Museum in southeast history of 1880s east London. Explore six floors London, but there is now even more to love. On the same day that the Horniman of rooms which recreate key scenes from the serial originally opened in 1901, its new World Gallery (p. 48) opens with a display of more killer’s infamous rampage, including Whitechapel than 3,000 curious objects. The gallery allows for a brighter spotlight to shine on the police station and a mortuary. Be warned: much museum’s varied collection, which includes an Inuit child’s jacket made from seal skin, of the content here is not for the faint-hearted. Daily 9.30am-6.30pm. Adult £12; child £8. www.jack a caterpillar cocoon baby skirt from Papua New Guinea, and a section of a Libyan refugee therippermuseum.com. 12 Cable St, E1 8JG. boat salvaged in 2013. We have Frederick John Horniman, a Victorian tea trader and T: 020-7488 9811. Off map. Station: Aldgate East. collector who travelled to exotic destinations, to thank for these objects. His habit for Jewish Museum keeping everything didn’t make him popular with his wife, so he donated his entire Documenting Jewish history and culture in the house and its contents to the people of Forest Hill more than a century ago. UK from 1066 to today, including the harrowing Holocaust Gallery with photographs and accounts. Daily 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton Museum of London Docklands Royal Air Force Museum House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 The history of the River Thames, from its time as National aviation museum with more 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town. a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the than 100 aircraft on show, including a life-sized Docklands area. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, model of the F-35 fighter jet. Daily 10am-6pm. Leighton House Museum charges for special exhibitions. www.museumof Admission free; charges for special experiences. The restored former home of Frederic, Lord london.org.uk. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: www.rafmuseum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 Leighton displays a collection including his Canary Wharf/West India Quay. 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale. paintings, drawings and sculptures, plus the Arab Hall adorned with hundreds of tiles from the Middle National Maritime Museum Science Museum East. Please check for times and tours. Adult £9; The world’s largest maritime museum, with A huge museum dedicated to science, child £7. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, 10 galleries including the Nelson, Navy, Nation technology and medical achievements, with W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: gallery exploring the life of the naval hero. a Red Arrows 3D flight simulator and an IMAX Kensington Olympia. To 30 Sep: Great British Seaside. Photographs of theatre showing 3D science films. Permanent 60 years of Britain’s quirky beach culture. Check galleries include Making the Modern World, with London Film Museum for regular family events. Daily 10am-5pm. Robert Stephenson’s Rocket and the Apollo 10 Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of Admission free; charges for events and command module. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission James Bond vehicles that feature in the renowned exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, free; charges for special exhibitions. film series, including the Aston Martin DB5. Daily SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk. 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london Station: Greenwich. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington. T: 020-7836 4913. E8. Station: Covent Garden. Natural History Museum Astounding collections Queen’s House is said Sherlock Holmes Museum London Transport Museum with exhibits ranging from the to be haunted, after Famous address dedicated to The story of London’s transport system. Images of Nature gallery, to Canadian tourists took the fictional detective where, Highlights include iconic red buses and the world’s dinosaur skeletons and fossils. a photo of a ghost on according to the novels, he lived first Underground steam train. The exhibition Poster To 16 Sep: Sensational Butterflies. See the Tulip Stairs with his friend and colleague Dr Girls highlights London Transport artwork by female hundreds of live butterflies and moths Watson from 1881 to 1904. The Victorian graphic artists in the mid 20th century. Daily 10am- inside the temporary butterfly house. house has been maintained as described in Sir 6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. From 13 Jul: Life in the Dark. Discover how Arthur Conan Doyle’s stories. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 animals survive in the planet’s darkest corners Adult £15; child £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk. IMAGES COURTESY OF HORNIMAN MUSEUM 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden. (p. 48). Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; 221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. C5. charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Station: Baker Street. Museum of London Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. The world’s largest urban history museum has Station: South Kensington. Sir John Soane’s Museum thousands of exhibits in nine galleries, including This 19th-century townhouse was owned by Roman and Medieval London. To 11 Nov: London Queen’s House architect Sir John Soane, which he left to the nation Nights. Photography exhibition depicting the capital This 17th-century house, an architectural gem by in 1837. It houses his collection from around the after dark from the late 19th century to the modern Inigo Jones, has 22 rooms with a stunning fine art world, plus Hogarth’s satirical artworks. Wed-Sun day. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for collection spanning 400 years. Daily 10am-5pm. 10am-5pm. Check for tours and late-night opening special exhibitions and walking tours. www.museum Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk. Queen’s House, events. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s oflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican. Station: Cutty Sark. Station: Holborn. 50  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY MUSEUMS GALLERIES.indd 50 15/06/2018 10:12

Somerset House This stunning 18th-century building houses The Courtauld Gallery and Embankment Galleries. To 22 Aug: The Influence Project. A photography exhibition depicting black music culture. From 25 Jul: Circus Originals. Exploring the history of the circus up to the modern day. Galleries Wed-Fri 11am-8pm; Sat-Tue 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple. William Shakespeare (detail), associated with John Taylor, circa 1600-1610 © National Portrait Gallery, London Twinings Museum The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a mini exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria in 1837. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm; Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.twinings. co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. He’s got a few D9. Station: Temple. V&A Museum of Childhood Charming museum with a national collection of stories to tell. childhood objects dating back to the 16th century. To 2 Sep: Century of the Child: Nordic Design for Meet the locals. Children 1900 to Today. Significant Nordic designs for children, from Lego bricks to the Moomins. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam. ac.uk. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green. Victoria and Albert Museum Come face to face with British history. Outstanding global collection of arts spanning npg.org.uk 3,000 years, including fashion, paintings, ceramics and photographs. To 4 Nov: Frida Kahlo: Making Free admission Leicester Square Charing Cross Her Self Up. Celebrating the late Mexican artist’s life, with her stylish clothes and possessions. To 27 Jan: Fashioned from Nature. Innovative new fabrics, contemporary fashion and natural history specimens. To 25 Nov: Jameel Prize 5. See works inspired by Islamic culture. Please check for times NPG_MTL_WhereLondon_1-3Square_124x118_AW1.indd 1 06/06/2018 16:58 and prices. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington. The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays their beautiful collection of Rococo art, sculpture, furniture and suits of armour. Free tours on selected dates. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street. Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue housing hundreds of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body, including permanent exhibitions Medicine Now and Medicine Man. To 16 Sep: Teeth. The evolution of our relationship with our teeth, and with the profession that has shaped the way we live with them. Please check for times. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston. Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours 2-15 Jul: Closed during the Wimbledon IMAGES COURTESY OF HORNIMAN MUSEUM Championships. The museum displays old trophies, rackets and tennis kits from recent champions. Look out for the ‘ghost’ of John McEnroe, and a virtual reality 360-degree experience narrated by Tim Henman. The exhibition Through the Hoops: Croquet at Wimbledon charts the development of croquet, the first sport to be played there. Check for times and prices. www.wimbledon.com. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields, then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk. www.wheretraveler.com   51 WL JULY MUSEUMS GALLERIES.indd 51 15/06/2018 10:13

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES World Rugby Museum international exhibition of contemporary portrait Serpentine Gallery Relaunched for 2018 following a significant painting. To 21 Oct: Michael Jackson: On the Wall. This gallery in Kensington Gardens has modern refurbishment, this showcase for global rugby A look at the artists who were inspired by the King and contemporary exhibitions. To 7 Oct: Serpentine culture is located in the South Stand at of Pop, including Andy Warhol. Check for times and Pavilion. This year’s architectural project is designed Twickenham Stadium. More than 38,000 objects prices. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H by Mexico’s Frida Escobeda. Tue-Sun & bank include items from early 20th-century Welsh 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square. hols 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentine national teams and the 1924 New Zealand side. galleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020- Discover the history of the stadium and test your The Photographers’ Gallery 7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington. London’s largest gallery devoted to photography, rugby skills in an interactive display. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £12.50; child with several temporary exhibitions. To 14 Oct: Alex Serpentine Sackler Gallery £7.50. www.worldrugbymuseum.com. Whitton Prager: Silver Lake Drive. More than 40 large-scale Arts space near the Serpentine Gallery, formerly Rd, Twickenham, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. works by the American photographer are on display. a gunpowder store, with a contemporary wing Please check for times. Admission free before designed by Zaha Hadid. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Off map. Station: Twickenham. noon, then £4; child free. www.thephotographers Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. gallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020- GALLERIES 7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus. West Carriage Drive, Kensington Gardens, W2 2AR. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington. Barbican Art Gallery The Queen’s Gallery Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces: the Southbank Centre This smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace This sprawling arts centre on the South Bank is Art Gallery and The Curve. To 2 Sep: Dorothea has temporary exhibitions, many with works from home to music venues and the Hayward Gallery. Lange/Vanessa Winship. The first UK retrospective the Royal Collection. To 14 Oct: Splendours of the To 29 Jul: ABBA: Super Troupers. of the late American documentary photographer Subcontinent: A Prince’s Tour of India 1875-6. Celebration Audio-visual exhibition dedicated to the Swedish Lange, alongside British photographer Winship’s of South Asian art with works and manuscripts supergroup, with stage costumes, handwritten first major solo show. Please check for times and spanning the past 400 years, including pieces lyrics and musical instruments. Check for times. prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. gifted to Edward VII while touring the Indian www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Belvedere Rd, T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican. subcontinent. To 20 Jul daily 10am-5.30pm; from SE1 8XX. T: 020-7928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo. The Courtauld Gallery 21 Jul daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £12; child £6. European art collection in Somerset House. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, Tate Britain To 15 Jul: Artists at Work. Display of SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green The nation’s leading collection of British art from sketches depicting artists working on their craft, Park/Hyde Park Corner. 1500 to today, including the world’s largest drawn between the 16th and 20th centuries (p. 46). collection of works by Turner. To 27 Aug: All Too Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child free. www.courtauld. Royal Academy of Arts Human: Bacon, Freud and a Century of Life Painting. ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. Attractive 18th-century building with RA Collection Celebrating painters living in Britain who T: 020-7848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment. works in all media. To 19 Aug: Summer Exhibition. represented human figures. To 23 Sep: Aftermath: The annual celebration of contemporary art, Art in the Wake of World War One. Exploring the Guildhall Art Gallery from world-famous names to exciting new talent. impact of the war on British, German and French Paintings collected by the City of London since To 12 Aug: Tacita Dean: Landscape. The English art. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for the 17th century, plus the Roman Amphitheatre, artist celebrates vistas she has witnessed across special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, discovered in 1988 (free entry with gallery ticket). the globe. Please check for times and prices. SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityof Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Tate Modern london.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park. World-class, international modern art in the EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s. transformed Bankside Power Station. To 9 Sep: Royal Society of Sculptors Picasso 1932 – Love, Fame, Tragedy. A thrilling look at GOLD BARS COURTESY OF BANK OF ENGLAND MUSEUM Hayward Gallery This hub for professional sculptors hosts one of the most productive (and dramatic) years of This recently refurbished gallery is the home a regular series of exhibitions on sculpture. Picasso’s life. To 14 Oct: Shape of Light: 100 Years of of visual arts at the Southbank Centre. The To 14 Jul: Faces of Sculpture: Portrait Photography and Abstract Art. Intertwined stories of Gallery also curates the annual Art Night festival of a Profession. Anne Purkiss’ photographs depicting the birth of these two innovations in art. Sun-Thur (7 Jul; p. 53). Please check for times and prices. members of the Royal Society of Sculptors. Mon- 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Belvedere Rd, Fri 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.sculptors. charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555. E8. Station: Waterloo. org.uk. 108 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3RA. T: 020- Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts) 7373 8615. Off map. Station: Gloucester Road. Station: Southwark. Exhibitions of contemporary art and installations, plus a bar and restaurant, a bookshop and an A treasure hunt art-house cinema. Please check for times. Adult £1; child free; no admission fee Tue. www.ica.org.uk. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Charing Cross. Money is not just for grown-ups, you know. Capitalising on the school holidays, the The National Gallery Bank of England Museum has One of the world’s greatest galleries, with stunning works by Western European masters. devised a child-friendly game of To 29 Jul: Monet & Architecture. maps and mystery. Gold Rush! This exhibition takes a less-explored look at the (from 23 Jul; p. 48) is set in 1836, painter’s meditations on buildings. To 7 Oct: and the story follows the bank’s Ed Ruscha: Course of Empire. Ruscha’s depictions of Los Angeles. To 7 Oct: Thomas Cole: Eden to directors. They have just received Empire. The 19th-century American artist depicts a mysterious map, which details dramatic vistas such as the Garden of Eden. London’s underground sewer Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission system and leads straight into the free; charges for special exhibitions. www.national bank’s gold vaults. But which drain gallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross. leads to the gold, and who made this map? Kids (and perhaps some excitable National Portrait Gallery adults) are encouraged to answer these One of the nation’s most prominent galleries displays works depicting famous British people questions by searching for clues in the museum. in art. To 23 Sep: BP Portrait Award 2018. Prestigious 52  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY MUSEUMS GALLERIES.indd 52 15/06/2018 10:13

GOLD BARS COURTESY OF BANK OF ENGLAND MUSEUM UNTIL NOW Explore London’s newest attraction postalmuseum.org www.wheretraveler.com   53 WL JULY MUSEUMS GALLERIES.indd 53 15/06/2018 10:19

ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: Noel Gallagher; The Human League; Summer Series at Somerset House Music to your ears Emeli Sandé, Noel Gallagher, Roger Waters and Eric Clapton are just a few of the famous faces you can see perform live at music festivals across the capital this month, as Sarah Riches discovers Whether you want to listen to pop music of urban music in Finsbury Park (6-8 Jul). The Human League and there’s performances NOEL GALLAGHER © LAWRENCE WATSON; THE HUMAN LEAGUE © SPIROS POLITIS; SUMMER SERIES © OWEN HARVEY from Bruno Mars or classical tunes from Homegrown grime star Stormzy takes to the from The Gipsy Kings, Croatian cellist duo II Divo, there’s a festival for you this stage on Saturday (www.wirelessfestival.co.uk). 2Cellos, the re-formed Boyzone and Jools month – wherever you are in the city. The first Kaleidoscope Festival (21 Jul) Holland and his Rhythm and Blues Orchestra Staying central? Then make a beeline for in Alexandra Palace opens up parts of the (www.kewthemusic.org). British Summer Time in Hyde Park, now in palace to the public for the first time. Catch There are also two annual festivals in its sixth year (6-15 Jul). This year’s headliners American rock band The Flaming Lips, British Gunnersbury Park. Lovebox (13-14 Jul) is include Roger Waters as part of his Us + Them indie rockers The Mystery Jets and Beth Orton, headlined by the English grime artist Skepta, Tour, The Cure, Paul Simon, Eric Clapton, the singer/songwriter who fuses folk with rapper Childish Gambino and Radio 1 DJ Canadian crooner Michael Bublé in his only UK electronica. DJs including Norman Jay and Annie Mac. As well as the big acts, roaming show this year, and Bruno Mars, who performs The 2 Bears play, plus there’s comedy from drummers from South London Samba will tunes from his 24K Magic album. Is it OK to be Katherine Ryan among others, street food entertain and, for the brave (read: tipsy), more excited about the support acts? Guests stalls and wellbeing activities for all ages there’s the chance to sing on stage in include Bananarama, The Feeling, Van (www.kaleidoscope-festival.com). Hip Hop Karaoke (www.loveboxfestival.com). Morrison and Khalid (www.bst-hydepark.com). On the other side of town, Greenwich Citadel Festival (15 Jul) will also get you Summer Series, in the beautiful courtyard Music Time (3-8 Jul) lights up south London dancing, this time to synth-pop from the of Somerset House, is also a regular on the as huge names perform including Emeli Glaswegian band Chvrches, gospel and soul festival scene (5-15 Jul). You might discover Sandé, Tom Jones, Nile Rodgers & Chic, Noel from the American singer Leon Bridges and new talent as the event mixes established Gallagher’s High Flying Birds and the classical psychedelic rock from Tame Impala, led by and emerging artists, but British pop band pop quartet II Divo. Sustain yourself with singer-songwriter Kevin Parker. Enjoy circus Metronomy is likely to grab the headlines, street food such as pulled pork in brioche acts and street performers from Roundhouse, as will hip-hop legends De La Soul and The buns, Neapolitan pizzas and Mexican cuisine as well as hip-hop cheerleaders, space-hopper Roots. Many tickets are already sold out, but (www.greenwichmusictime.co.uk). races, life drawing and puppet making, with call for returns (www.somersethouse.org.uk). Go west to the Kew the Music (10-15 Jul) plenty of food stalls to keep you going For a taste of north London, head to the concert series in Kew Gardens. Eighties band (www.citadelfestival.com). Wireless Festival – a weekend celebration Go West are back along with contemporaries Now that’s how London does summer! 54  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY ENTERTAINMENT.indd 54 15/06/2018 10:20

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References in listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on p. 88-89. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP) MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Tumbling down Aladdin Director Sam Mendes, best known for Based on the Disney film, it has tunes by Sir Tim the film Skyfall, is directing The Lehman Rice. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets Trilogy at the National Theatre (from 4 Jul). £17.50-£149.50. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. The three-hour, 40-minute play is told in Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road. three parts on a single night. Written by Stefano Massini, it depicts the Lehman Bat Out of Hell brothers after they arrived in New York from Meat Loaf jukebox musical. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£175. www.batoutofhell Bavaria in 1844. They set up the Lehman musical.com. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Brothers bank, only for it to go bankrupt Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: 163 years later triggering the global financial Tottenham Court Road. crisis in 2008. Ben Power, the theatre’s The Book of Mormon deputy artistic director who adapted the This satire follows a team of hapless missionaries. performance, says: ‘It’s a gripping story Please check for times. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & about the American dream and how that Sat 2.30pm (extra show 27 Jul, 2.30pm). Tickets got lost. The play was so long it had to be £25-£202.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. shown over two nights in the original Italian Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square. production.’ With Russell Beale, Adam Godley and Ben Miles playing the brothers, Chicago the Musical you can bank on this being a success. From 2 Jul: Martin Kemp takes over from Cuba Gooding Jr. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. Tickets £25-£150. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. E8. Phoenix, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843- Station: Waterloo 316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road. THE LEHMAN TRILOGY COURTESY OF NATIONAL THEATRE 56  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY ENTERTAINMENT.indd 56 15/06/2018 10:20

‘HILARIOUS, MOVING, GLORIOUS’THE DA I LY TEL EGR A P H THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU WL MATILDA.indd 1 11/06/2018 17:22

ENTERTAINMENT Dreamgirls Musical about a female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15- £175. www.savoytheatre.org. Savoy, Strand, WC2R King and 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden. Everybody’s Talking about Jamie country Few actors can boast of working This musical is set in Sheffield, northern England, about how a boy overcomes bullies and prejudice. for the Royal Shakespeare Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets Company and then a £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingaboutjamie.co.uk. blockbuster franchise (The Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. Lord of the Rings). Sir Ian T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. McKellen has done just The King and I that and is now returning Watch Broadway stars make their West End debuts to the theatre, playing in this famous musical. Mon-Sat 7pm; Wed & Sat the lead in Shakespeare’s 2pm. Tickets £15-£82.50. www.kingandimusical. co.uk. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. King Lear at the Duke T: 0844-412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus. of York’s Theatre (from 11 Jul; p. 62). Calling it his Kinky Boots Fun musical about a shoe factory that produces ‘last big Shakespeare part’, knee-high boots for drag queens. Music by Cyndi McKellen is reprising his role Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets for the fourth time after making £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. his West End debut on this same Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross. stage in 1964. Audiences can watch the actor as he morphs Les Misérables from a decorated professional The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in post- into a regal king-turned-military revolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat hero, in director Jonathan 2.30pm. Tickets £47.25-£177.25. www.lesmis.com. Munby’s rendition of the play. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square. ‘THE ULTIMATE FEEL- GOOD SHOW!’ CLASSIC FM 0844 482 5115 IAN MCKELLEN © MANUEL HARLAN mamma-mia.com NOVELLO THEATRE © LITTLESTAR ALDWYCH I WC2B 4LD I COVENT GARDEN A DELFONT MACKINTOSH THEATRE 58   W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 MM_MAR18_Where_London_120x175_vis1a.indd 1 01/03/2018 10:38 WL JULY ENTERTAINMENT.indd 58 15/06/2018 10:23

WL TINA TURNER.indd 1 11/06/2018 17:25

ENTERTAINMENT Disney’s The Lion King Matilda the Musical The Phantom of the Opera Wonderful adaptation of the popular Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s A mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Tue House. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets puppetry. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. £25-£204.75. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Tickets £42-£200.25. www.thelionking.co.uk. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden. Sounds and Sorcery Mamma Mia! Motown the Musical From 3 Jul: Immersive experience inspired A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with Feel-good musical based on the story of Motown by Disney’s Fantasia. Check for times. Tickets a feel-good story set on a Greek island and all the Records, which launched the careers of Stevie £22-£30. www.thevaults.com. The Vaults, Leake St, band’s best-known tracks. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur Wonder and The Temptations. www.shaftesbury SE1 7NN. T: 020-7401 9603. F8. Station: Waterloo. & Sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£102.25. www.mamma- theatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury School of Rock: The Musical mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844- Ave, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Andrew Lloyd Webber’s hit musical. 482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple. Tottenham Court Road/Holborn. Check for times and prices. www.schoolofrockthe musical.com. New London, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden. SEE YOU IN Thriller Live Songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Check for times and prices. www.thriller live.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. COURT T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Tina: The Tina Turner Musical Musical based on the life of the singer. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£79.50. www.tinathemusical.com. Aldwych, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. D8. Station: Covent Garden. Wicked The brilliant backstory of the witches of Oz. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.75-£175. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria. Staging the Bard Shakespeare’s Globe theatre’s summer season kicks off with Othello (from 20 Jul; p. 62), a tragedy that transports you to the canals of Venice. SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE © JOHN WILDGOOSE This version has an award-winning cast, giving an exciting twist to the tragic storyline. Alabama-born André Holland, best known for his roles in Moonlight A UNIQUE COURTROOM STAGING | NOW PLAYING and Selma, plays the troubled protagonist alongside Mark Rylance, known from the theatre’s current LONDON COUNTY HALL | witnesscountyhall.com Broadway productions of Farinelli and the King and Dunkirk, who plays Iago. 60  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY ENTERTAINMENT.indd 60 15/06/2018 10:24

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ENTERTAINMENT PLAYS Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy Harry Potter and the Cursed Child The adaptation of JK Rowling’s new The Comedy about a Bank Robbery combine in this experience based on the TV show. story. Most tickets are sold out; please check for A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks. Please check for times. Tickets £67.50-£79.50. returns and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian, Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Leicester Square. Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Julie Hamlet Julie throws a party which descends into a savage Consent After learning of his father’s death, Prince Hamlet fight for survival. Vanessa Kirby (The Crown) stars. Friends take opposing briefs in a contentious comes home to find his uncle married to his mother Check for times and prices. www.nationaltheatre. legal case. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£80. and installed on the throne. Check for times. org.uk. National Theatre, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 www.londontheatredirect.com. Harold Pinter Tickets £5-£22. www.shakespearesglobe.com. 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo. Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars. Killer Joe Orlando Bloom (The Lords of the Rings, The Hobbit, Pirates of the Caribbean) stars as a police officer who moonlights as a killer. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Check for prices. www.atgtickets.com. Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-871 7632. E7/8. Station: Charing Cross. King Lear From 11 Jul: Ian McKellen stars as a mad king (p. 58). Please check for times. Tickets £25- DAILY MAIL, GUARDIAN, RADIO TIMES, WHATSONSTAGE £145. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. ALL SINGING! T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square. The Mousetrap A murderer strikes in Agatha Christie’s play. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap. ALL DANCING! co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square. Othello From 20 Jul: Mark Rylance plays Iago in ALL LAUGHING! this classic play (p. 60). Please check for times. Tickets from £5. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars. The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£67.50. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden. Witness for the Prosecution Show based on Agatha Christie’s courtroom drama. Tickets from £10-£75. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. www.witnesscountyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo. The Woman in Black A spooky story about a lawyer who settles affairs after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £21.50-£60. www.thewoman inblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden. CHILDREN & FAMILIES A Monster Calls From 7 Jul: Teenager Conor, who lives with his mother, sees a monster in his window. Please check for times and prices. www.old victheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. 0330 333 4811 | GARRICK THEATRE | YoungFrankenstein.co.uk T: 0844-81 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo. 2 Charing Cross Road, London, WC2H 0HH | Leicester Square Charing Cross Double Act A comical adaptation of a Jacqueline Wilson story about identical twins. Please check for times and TICKETS FROM £20 | MUST END 25 AUGUST prices. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon. 62  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY ENTERTAINMENT.indd 62 15/06/2018 10:24

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ENTERTAINMENT CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Royal Albert Hall London’s premier music hall. 21 Jul: Prom 9: War IN THE HEART OF and Peace. Composed in the shadow of World War II, hear Britten’s Sinfonia da Requiem. 7.30pm. LEICESTER SQUARE Please check for prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. Station: South Kensington. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross. CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD The O2 Iconic live music venue. 9-11 Jul: Justin Timberlake. Check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz venue. 2-4 Jul: Keyon Harrold. 8 Jul: Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Orchestra. 16-19 Jul: Average White Band. www.ronniescotts. co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road. DANCE Royal Opera House 8 Jul: The Royal Ballet School Summer Performance. Watch performances by students who are about to embark on a dance career. Check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden. ‘HUGELY RECOMMENDED. A PERFECT D-DAY STORM!’ Sadler’s Wells MAIL ON SUNDAY 10-11 Jul: Rambert School of Ballet and Contemporary DAVID HAIG MALCOLM SINCLAIR Dance. See performers from Britain’s oldest dance LAURA ROGERS school. Check for times and prices. www.sadlers wells.com. Sadler’s Wells, Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. C9. Station: Angel. OPERA Royal Opera House To 20 Jul: La Bohème. The first revival of Richard Jones’s production of Puccini’s opera. Please check OBSERVER EVENING STANDARD for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden. FESTIVALS & EVENTS BBC Proms Annual festival celebrating classical music, which aims to bring the music to the masses. Please check for times and prices. www.bbc.co.uk/proms. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington. Greenwich + Docklands International Festival To 7 Jul: A free festival celebrating performing arts outdoors. www.festival.org. T: 020-8305 1818. Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre LIMITED SEASON Watch shows under the stars including As You Like It PressurePlay.co.uk 020 7395 5405 and Dinosaur World Live. Check for times and prices. UNTIL 1 SEPTEMBER AMBASSADORS THEATRE WC2H 9ND www.openairtheatre.com. Open Air Theatre, Inner Circle, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU. T: 0844-826 4242. C6. Station: Baker Street. 64  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY ENTERTAINMENT.indd 64 15/06/2018 10:25

WL DREAMGIRLS.indd 1 14/06/2018 12:10

SHOPPING | THE GUIDE Building sights London has some of the world’s most amazing architecture. Kohinoor Sahota finds out how it is inspiring designers to make souvenirs St Paul’s Cathedral, The Shard and the Coca-Cola London Eye: London is a city that boasts impressive architecture, which is recognisable the world over. If you are a fan of the capital’s buildings, here are some souvenirs that will be right up your street. Fortnum & Mason (p. 67) is a British institution. More than 200 years old, it is famed for its food hall and afternoon tea, which is served in the Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon – this was opened by none other than The Queen. The Royal Warrant Holder stocks plenty of items that make charming souvenirs. This month, the department store has launched the Rory Dobner collection, which is exclusive to the store. The artist’s intricate ink drawings of the store’s façade are replicated SCARF COURTESY OF ST PANCRAS INTERNATIONAL;TEAPOT AND HANDWASH PUMP COURTESY OF FORTNUM & MASON; BISCUIT COURTESY OF THE OLD VIC on plates, egg cups, trays, tea cups, pots and towels. The homeware represents all that is great about Britain – as the designer as well as the products have all been made here in Britain. St Pancras International is one of the most impressive buildings in London. It is hard not to be wowed by its Gothic-inspired architecture. This year the station celebrates its 150th anniversary. To mark the occasion, you can take your pick from stylish items including printed cushions, limited-edition scarves, pictures and more on sale. While you’re there look out for the pianos, which anyone can play – some have been played by music stars including Elton John and John Legend (www.stpancras.com). Continuing with the theme of anniversaries, to mark 200 years of The Old Vic, the theatre is launching a range of merchandise. The playhouse has welcomed famous faces from Ian McKellen to Sir Ben Kingsley. To celebrate, the company has collaborated with British brands including the London- based fashion designer Bella Freud and the fine jeweller Cassandra Goad to create products inspired by the iconic playhouse. Biscuiteers, the luxury London-based biscuit company, is also working with the institution. In honour of the occasion it has made a special biscuit depicting the exterior of the venue iced on to a rich vanilla biscuit, using British ingredients. The range From top to bottom: A St Pancras International scarf; a Fortnum & Mason teapot; The Old Vic is available at the theatre (www.oldvic biscuit; Fortnum & Mason handwash pump theatre.com). 66  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY SHOPPING.indd 66 15/06/2018 10:26

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89 MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Liberty In this department store, inside a mock-Tudor FASHION Bond Street building, you will find trendy prints, which are on Burberry Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and Find the full Burberry London and Prorsum everything from scarves to notebooks. Designer jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and collections featuring clothing for men, women, fashion for men and women scores highly here, too. Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty. children and babies, including a winning mix co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. of classic and funky raincoats, separates and Carnaby accessories (and branches). www.burberry.com. Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB. T: 020-7806 8904. E7. these days the Carnaby area still appeals to the John Lewis Station: Piccadilly Circus. fashionable set, with sports-inspired stores and Find covetable fashion labels, homeware and edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus. electrical goods at this trusted department store. Cath Kidston Covent Garden Mon-Wed, Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Home to stylish accessories with London prints, This former fruit and vegetable market is now Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford plus childrenswear. www.cathkidston.com. a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER. T: 020-7499 9895. shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden. D6. Station: Oxford Circus. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Hatton Garden Marks & Spencer Chanel This hidden historic corner of London is home to A British institution. This is a reliable source for Chanel exudes style and class in all of its designs the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond lingerie and food, as well as many fashion and products. Fashion-forward shoppers can industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon. collections for men, women and children spend hours browsing through accessories, (multiple locations around London). Mon-Sat clothing, bags and other treasures at this chic Jermyn Street & St James’s 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer. Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in flagship (multiple locations around London). com. 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP (and branches). London are found in this area, including hatters www.chanel.com. 158-159 New Bond St, W1S T: 020-7935 7954. D6. Station: Marble Arch. and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. 7UB. T: 020-7493 5040. E6. Station: Green Park. Selfridges King’s Road This is the largest shop on Oxford Street with Hackett Once famous for upmarket fashion, this iconic street 650,000 sq feet of retail space. Visit for the finest For those who hanker after the classic British still attracts a polished crowd. Duke of York Square products in beauty and fashion, plus numerous gentleman-at-leisure look, this store is hard to bustles with antique and furniture shops. G4. restaurants and bars. The shoe department and beat. Find polos, sporting jackets and cords, Station: Sloane Square. denim studios are impressive. Mon-Sat 9.30am- suiting and plenty of accessories (multiple SCARF COURTESY OF ST PANCRAS INTERNATIONAL;TEAPOT AND HANDWASH PUMP COURTESY OF FORTNUM & MASON; BISCUIT COURTESY OF THE OLD VIC 10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. locations around London). www.hackett.com. Oxford Street 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY. T: 020-7494 4917. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Europe’s busiest shopping street has major Station: Bond Street. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. department stores including Selfridges and John Lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch. Regent Street Originally designed by John Nash, this prestigious area includes Liberty and the first British Ferrari shop. Bright stars D6/D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus/Piccadilly Circus. While London may be one of the Savile Row world’s most fashionable cities, One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is starting out as a new designer in the in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including capital isn’t easy. That’s why 50m, a Anderson & Sheppard. E7. Station: Green Park. new experimental concept store, has opened with the aim of supporting MAJOR STORES new talent. Paul Smyth, who is behind Fenwick the project, says: ‘The fashion industry Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; is a difficult industry to survive in and Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun London rents mean the dream of noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street. owning a shop is disappearing to everyone but the wealthy, leaving Fortnum & Mason great British talent behind.’ That’s why This British institution is famed for its food hall (p. 66). Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. the Belgravia venue charges www.fortnumandmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A affordable monthly rent to designers. 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. The name refers to the 50 metres of Hamleys rail space which each designer has to Huge toy shop. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; showcase their work. The space will Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. take up to 30 designers at any one RYAN LO DRESS COURTESY OF 50M 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. time, and names include womenswear Station: Oxford Circus. designer Ryan Lo, fashion duo Kepler Harrods and jewellery studio Räthel and Wolf. Edwardian food and meat halls, men’s, women’s Eccleston Yards, 21 Eccleston Place, and children’s fashion, cosmetics, a spa, bars and SW1W 9NF. www.ecclestonyards.com. restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. G6. Station: Victoria www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge. www.wheretraveler.com 67 WL JULY SHOPPING.indd 67 15/06/2018 10:27

SHOPPING HYDE PARK CORNER (0.3miles) Mari Vanna GE R I DHarvey Nichols Sloane Street & Burberry S B T H KNIGHTSBRIDGE Boss G Boodles Salvatore Ferragamo I L.K.Bennett Knightsbridge KN Alberta Ferretti Lacoste Ermenegildo Zegna Tom Ford Dolce & Gabbana Ermanno Scervino Watches of Switzerland Moncler Tommy Hilfiger Graff Porsche Design ST Russell & Bromley Louis Vuitton SIL SLOANE STREET Bonhams KNIGHTSBRIDGE Ted Baker Gucci Miu Miu BA MONT Roberto Cavalli Versace Rochester Big & Tall Clothing D Fendi A Space NK O Dior Bulgari PELIE R Mulberry Dolce & Gabbana Godiva N in Harrods Jimmy Choo HA TO in Harrods Harrods Bottega Veneta Valentino NS R ST P Gap R ESCENT Karen Millen Saint Laurent T C M Escada in Harrods Emilio Pucci L S O Pinko ST Nespresso R in Harrods Tods CHANEL M B B Reiss CO SI Arije OT Caroline Castigliano Christian M BA ST LO Giorgio Armani La Perla LouboutinH A L K I N W B Hermes N W E DE Coccinelle A Loro Piana CADOGAN PLACE COT U S D Lauren C B Prada ST Emporio Armani A H Herve Leger TA G A John Boyd . O M R P Stewart Parvin E P N Caroline Charles Burberry TO Amrapali P L Bruce Oldfield HANS ST Agent LAC A OV Provocateur YE C Suzanne Neville P E IN OM M E Burberry is one of Britain’s leading Haute Couture GD O SQ AN REET R ON PONT ST U ’S B EG brands and is famous for its AR SLOANE STRE REET RO GE PONT ST E W checked prints and for having S RT DN ON invented the iconic trench coat, L L G W M Hawkes & Son PAV I L I O N R O E CROMW TE CADOGAN PL CADOGAN S RR which was used during World CADOGAN EN LENN RD War I. The store also stocks stylish T E GA OX G E accessories including shoes, ON R OV . CLABON S T DNS RT SQUARE FULH A M RD bags and wallets. AD SQUARE ING N ACE GE ET O MEW EG 18 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7QN. Katharine LT TO Emilia Pooley A S T: 020-7980 8427. Wickstead N S MEWS Atelier Lulu Guinness W www.burberry.com T ACE Van Peterson Designs CADOGAN PL E C A D O G A N G AT Andrew Martin PEL PAV I L I O HAM ELLIS ST ET STR SOUTH KENSINGTON (0.4miles) Anya Hindmarch RE EET L Chloe W I L B R A H A M P ST ET ES N ROAD J.Crew Escada Jo Malone RE IV R SLOANE TER ST ER D DRA . DR R ET NY AY RE Hackett CAD YCO DE M CO ST ST Zadig & Voltaire A TT R N TT OGA O A Smythson LH SL AV O G OA M O TER SE Kate Spade J.Crew Tiffany EN D FU N G N CA SLOANE E U O E R R AV A EN RD UE Peter Jones SLOANE SQUARE CE SQUARE EN Boggi LA Milano NS S P D D TT G T.M.Lewin Boss CO OR NE Massimo Dutti SLOA T & AY LF Links of London CU LOWER SLOAN R DRussell & Bromley E D E STR BRIDGE A C E O A Eric Bompard Calvin KleinP LUnderwear R Godiva N HTS K G xur y stores I R AY B Hobbs N ST G ’ S Whistles Michael Kors lu AN O For r LS N L.K.Bennett esigne K I Jigsaw Chocolatier Godiva is located DE U and d ion CO RS E ST inside Harrods, the world-famous Sarah Pacini ON fash Kurt Geiger CH ST Catimini EL department store. This chocolate Reiss Elliot Rhodes TE Thomas Sabo NH shop has mouthwatering truffles, W AM AL Hawes & Curtis Zara PO which are presented in beautiful TE LE RR Penhaligon’s ST boxes. The café serves a huge Folli Follie RE D FR A ET choice of treats from chocolate RO AN KL cakes to hot chocolate. S G’ IN D Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, N OA ’S KI R RO SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. L.K.Bennett AL W IT www.harrods.com SP O H AL Cath Kidston OY R Anthropologie 68  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY 2018 SHOPPING MAPS.indd 68 15/06/2018 10:29

SHOPPING LUXURY ARCADES JEWELLERY & WATCHES John Bell & Croyden This wellbeing emporium is more than 200 years Burlington Arcade David Morris old and is the pharmacy to the Queen. It offers Running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly, This esteemed British jewellery brand offers emergency prescriptions and vaccinations. this Regency arcade has specialist shops. beautiful couture jewellery made to the highest www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for opening Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 9am-6.30pm; Sun standards. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 11am-5pm. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park. 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street. Burlington Arcade, 51 Piccadilly, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Links of London London Glassblowing Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. Pick up a souvenir and try glassblowing with a Leadenhall Market www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. session at the UK’s foremost studio and gallery for A spectacular Victorian covered market in the City T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street. contemporary glass art. www.londonglassblowing. that dates back to the 14th century. Mon-Fri 11am- co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 5pm. www.leadenhallmarket.co.uk. Gracechurch St, Pandora 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge. EC3V 1LR. D11. Station: Monument. Find jewellery, including charm bracelets that you build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C Prestat MALLS & FACTORY 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus. One of London’s oldest chocolate shops, selling truffles and more. Please check for times. OUTLETS KIDS’ STORES www.prestat.co.uk. 14 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS. T: 020-8961 8555. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/ Bicester Village Green Park. Discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven LEGO Store in Oxfordshire. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica Twinings & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicester of Big Ben made from bricks. 3 Swiss Court, This is one of the capital’s oldest shops – it’s village.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego.com/ been trading from 1706 – and is full of a variety OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: en-gb/stores. E7. Station: Leicester Square. of teas and infusions. Enjoy a free Tea Tasting Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There session. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; M&M’s World is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels. Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, Sweet treats, including London-inspired chocolate WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple. Westfield London souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. This mall has more than 450 shops, from high-street We Built This City names to high-end labels. www.westfield.com/ T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square. Quirky souvenir shop – look out for the stuffed london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. pigeons, wallets and artworks. Check for times. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush. SPECIALIST STORES www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus. Westfield Stratford City Buckingham Palace Shop Massive mall with 270 shops as well as a cinema Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created The Whisky Exchange and casino. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal Specialist retailer of fine whiskies and spirits. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, www.thewhiskyexchange.com. 2 Bedford St, WC2E Map inset. Station: Stratford. SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria. 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8. Station: Charing Cross. SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT) is a UK US Euro 20% sales tax added on all goods WOMEN’S CLOTHES except food, books and children’s XS 6 2 34 clothing. Overseas visitors from 8 4 36 outside the EU can shop tax-free S 10 6 38 in the UK, recouping some of the 12 8 40 cost of the item. Don’t forget to M CARNABY STREET © ISTOCK; FEMALE SHOPPER COURTESY OF WESTFIELD 14 10 42 ask in-store for more information L 16 12 44 about tax-free shopping. MEN’S CLOTHES (CHEST) 34 34 44 S 36 36 46 38 38 48 M 40 40 50 42 42 52 L 44 44 54 CHILDREN’S CLOTHES 4-5yrs 4-5yrs 110cm Normal opening times for 6-7 6-7 116-122 most shops are Mon-Sat 8-9 8-9 128-134 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm 10-11 10 140-146 unless stated otherwise. 12-13 12 152-158 Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for 14-15 13 164-170 late-night shopping. www.wheretraveler.com   69 WL JULY SHOPPING.indd 69 15/06/2018 10:27

DINING | THE GUIDE Great British restaurants Rule, Britannia! British chef Bryn Williams has opened a new restaurant at Somerset House and he’s already seeing the fruits of his labour, as Sarah Riches discovers BRYN WILLIAMS IMAGES COURTESY OF BRYN WILLIAMS; HANS’ BAR AND GRILL IMAGES COURTESY OF HANS’ BAR AND GRILL A TV chef who has cooked for the Queen Williams keeps things original by making has opened a veggie-friendly restaurant dishes colourful and textured, so expect in Somerset House’s South Wing. The small plates such as a hand-dived scallop eponymous Bryn Williams at Somerset with rainbow carrots in a sweet Sauternes HANS’ BAR & GRILL House (above) is the Welsh chef’s first sauce, and Cumbrian beef with pickled mooli The team behind the hotels Chewton Glen London restaurant in a decade, since he took (radish), black garlic, raw apple and sage. and 11 Cadogan Gardens has just opened over the acclaimed Odette’s in Primrose Hill. Mains might include grilled salmon and Hans’ Bar & Grill near Sloane Square. English head chef – aptly named Adam England Williams got his big break in 2006 when the roast young broccoli with olive tapenade and (above) – previously worked at Le Pont de sous chef beat established names to prepare sage, grilled leeks with barley and buttermilk, la Tour and Skylon. The name is inspired by the fish course for the Queen’s 80th birthday and grilled hispi cabbage with piglet belly Hans Sloane, who is credited for bringing celebrations, on the BBC’s TV programme and burnt apple. Desserts are inventive, such cocoa to the UK, so expect chocolate Great British Menu. Since then he has worked as lavender meringue with lemon posset and desserts and hot drink, alongside seasonal British produce and spirits. with Marco Pierre White and Michel Roux. blueberry and lavender ice cream. 164 Pavilion Rd, SW1X 0BP. T: 020-7730 7000. While this new restaurant is not vegan nor Rosendale Design is behind the grand decor, www.hansbarandgrill.com vegetarian, its modern British menu is riding which is influenced by the chef’s Welsh roots the wave of seasonal, sustainable ingredients and the Georgian building’s naval history, so ANGLO sourced from well-known suppliers, with expect Welsh printed upholstery and brown As the name suggests, this restaurant in Farringdon serves English cuisine. Choose a focus on fruit and vegetables. leather banquette booths, wall lights made a dinner tasting menu with dishes such Williams says: ‘I’m a firm believer that a piece from lighthouse lenses and antique naval as hay-smoked lamb, Cornish pollock, of fruit or veg should be treated with the same map drawers. You can also see fruit and Isle of Mull scallop tartare, and Earl Grey amount of care and respect as a cut of meat vegetable still-life images by the Welsh fine ice cream. Expect fine-dining details such or fillet of fish – if not more. I’m thrilled to have art photographer Allan Jenkins. Already, as deconstructed dishes and petals for decoration, as well as attention to the opened a new restaurant that’s not only in Williams’ restaurant is bearing fruit. dishes’ provenance. a stunning location, but where fresh, locally Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 30 St Cross St, EC1N 8UH. T: 020-7430 1503. sourced produce takes centre stage.’ 4646. www.bryn-somersethouse.co.uk www.anglorestaurant.com 70  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY DINING.indd 70 19/06/2018 10:39

WL JAP CENTRE ICHIBA.indd 1 11/06/2018 17:27

DINING T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (‘Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80+. References (A1; B5 etc.) refer to the map on p. 88-89 AMERICAS Fera at Claridge’s Art Deco restaurant serving local, organic and The Montague This brasserie offers seasonal dishes and weekend (NORTH & SOUTH) British dishes including halibut with black truffle. brunch. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.londonchurchill. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges.co.uk. Claridge’s regency.hyatt.com. Hyatt Regency London – The Gaucho Excellent choice for succulent Argentine steaks, hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. Churchill, 30 Portman Square, W1H 7BH. T: 020-7299 with a wine bar, supper lounge and terrace. E6. Station: Bond Street. 2037. D5. Station: Marble Arch. ££££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.gaucho Great Court Restaurant Rex Whistler Restaurant restaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR. Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s Dine on dishes such as seafood bisque and T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. iconic Reading Room, under the domed roof. try an excellent wine list in a dining room with Goodman ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. a whimsical, century-old mural. ££. Daily L. New York steakhouse with quality US and British The British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P beef, dry-aged in-house, plus dishes including T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico. whole-roasted poussin. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D. Road/Holborn. St Pancras Brasserie www.goodmanrestaurants.com. 24-26 Maddox St, Holborn Dining Room All-day British brasserie-style dishes, such as W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Smart brasserie next to the Rosewood hotel Cumbrian saddleback pork, in an ornate dining Oxford Circus. serving classic British dishes with a twist, plus a room. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys Hard Rock Cafe seafood counter. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborn stpancras.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras London’s legendary burger joint, diningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. with rock memorabilia and a fun vibe. Enjoy jumbo T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras. wings, nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. ££. Magpie Tom’s Kitchen Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Casual, top-notch dining with intricate dishes Delightful all-day brasserie serving modern Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: arriving to the tables on trolleys, dim-sum style. comfort food, popular for weekend brunch. ££. Hyde Park Corner. Highly recommended. £££. Tue-Sun L & D. Daily B & L. Mon-Sat D. www.tomskitchen.co.uk. JW Steakhouse www.magpie-london.com. 10 Heddon St, W1B 4BX. 27 Cale St, SW3 3QP (and branches). T: 020-7349 Top-quality steakhouse offering dry-aged T: 020-7287 8592. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. 0202. Off map. Station: South Kensington American USDA prime beef with a variety of sauces and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. Oblix Sophisticated rotisserie, grill and wood-fired oven serving dishes such as suckling pig for two, plus stunning views from mid-way up The Shard. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. Level 32, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge. Planet Hollywood Hollywood-inspired dining experience with movie memorabilia, and an international menu featuring Asian stir-fries, steaks and burger sliders. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. BRITISH (MODERN) Aqua Shard Contemporary cuisine and fantastic views at this slick restaurant on the Shard’s 31st floor. £££. Get Thai-ed up Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge. GREYHOUND CAFÉ IMAGE COURTESY OF GREYHOUND CAFÉ The Thai designer behind the Greyhound fashion house has launched the UK’s first Aviary Greyhound Café in Fitzrovia. Like Asia’s branches, it plays contemporary and rare Thai Smart restaurant with a rooftop terrace, serving hearty British dishes, including an excellent tunes to create a lively atmosphere. The ground-floor restaurant’s monochrome palette Sunday roast. £££. Daily L & D. www.aviarylondon. is livened up with hand-drawn chalk designs and an oversized fish trap attracting woven com. Montcalm Royal London House hotel, tilapia, while the bar is decorated with shop shutters and shelves of bric-a-brac, creating 22-25 Finsbury Square, EC2A 1DX. T: 020-3873 the appearance of a Bangkok greengrocers. The basement diner features sheets of 4000. D10. Station: Moorgate. corrugated metal, colourful chairs and temple-style pendant lights. Staff in saffron Caxton Grill fisherman’s trousers provide a vast picture menu which features spicy salmon sashimi, Superb selection of steaks cooked in the Josper wok-fried seafood with chillies, and pad Thai with shitake mushrooms. For dessert, grill, plus seafood dishes such as lobster with try the tapioca pearls, with a butterfly pea flower and coconut sorbet. Hollandaise sauce. There’s also a bar and terrace. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 37 Berners St, W1T 3LZ. T: 020-3026 3798. www.greyhoundcafe.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. D6. Station: Goodge Street Station: St James’s Park. 72  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY DINING.indd 72 19/06/2018 11:19

THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: info@amaya.biz Private dining room seats 14 The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: info@chutneymary.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16 Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: info@veeraswamy.com Private dining room seats 24 WL MW BOUTIQUEV2.indd 1 11/06/2018 17:28

DINING Chai Wu Located on the fifth floor of Harrods, this contemporary restaurant serves dishes such as shredded Wagyu beef and Chilean sea bass. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge. Hakkasan Fashionable Michelin-starred restaurant with stunning decor, serving modern Cantonese dishes such as Peking duck with caviar. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat to midnight. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road. Kai Mayfair Superior Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant setting, with dishes such as Kagoshima Wagyu beef, and Nanyang chilli lobster. Highly recommended. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair. co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. Min Jiang Take in glorious park views while dining on Sichuan cuisine, dim sum and spicy seafood dishes. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang. It’s brilliant! co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988. F3. Station: High You needn’t travel to ‘Little India’ – Southall in west London – to get your curry fix, as Street Kensington. an authentic Indian restaurant has now opened in Chelsea. Dipna Anand’s first eatery, Dip in Brilliant, is inspired by the restaurant her grandfather opened in Kenya in the CONTEMPORARY 1950s, and the one her family established in Southall in 1975 – which Prince Charles, Tina EUROPEAN Turner and Kevin Costner have visited. Anand says: ‘For years I’ve been asked when will 1 Lombard Street I open in central London. The time is finally right to bring my love of the Punjabi taste Mouthwatering selection of hearty, modern to Londoners. Indian food is all about sharing and togetherness, and that’s what Dip in cooking in this brasserie, a former bank with Brilliant is about.’ The restaurant serves flavoursome dishes such as fish masala and biryani a huge glass dome. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. made using family recipes, within smart surroundings decorated with flashes of orange. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank. 448-450 Fulham Rd, SW6 1DL. T: 020-3771 9443. www.dipinbrilliant.com. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway The Delaunay In Theatreland, this venue’s interior and menu are inspired by Europe’s grand cafés. ££££. Daily B, L BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy superb cuisine in this dining room, & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple. Butlers Restaurant including tasting menus from chef John Williams. Galvin at Windows Enjoy top English cuisine in an elegant Mayfair Men must wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, Michelin-starred restaurant serving restaurant, known for its flavoursome Dover sole. L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 modern haute cuisine from the Galvin Brothers. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Booking essential; smart dress. £££. Mon-Fri 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park. & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinatwindows.com. Station: Green Park. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. Rules E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. Café in the Crypt Plush, 200-year-old restaurant where the likes of Underneath the church, this café serves good-value Charles Dickens ate, with hearty, meaty dishes The Ivy English dishes (p. 76). £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun including rump steak and rib of beef. ££££. A firm favourite on London’s dining scene, and 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, loved by celebrities, this stylish restaurant is Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, corner and courtyard of Trafalgar Square, WC2N perfect for a pre- or post-theatre dinner. £££-££££. WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Covent Garden. 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross. Daily L & D (last orders midnight). www.the-ivy. The Wolseley co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. Cheneston’s D7. Station: Leicester Square. The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this Sample British cuisine in a classic dining room, famous brasserie, popular for its breakfast, plus with dishes such as pan-seared venison and OXO Tower a late-night menu. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.the pot-roast Dover sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. Smart restaurant on the Thames with stunning views wolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, IMAGE © RAM SINGH PHOTOGRAPHERS 6996. E7. Station: Green Park. and excellent food, perfect for special occasions. 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. ££££. Daily L & D. www.harveynichols.com. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington. Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House St, South Bank, The English Grill CHINESE SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo. This hotel restaurant features ornate chandeliers Bright Courtyard Club Ting and high ceilings and serves excellent grilled Choose from Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, Located in The Shard, this venue serves European meats. ££££. Daily B, L, D. www.rubenshotel.com. including lobster with noodles and Peking dishes with an Asian influence, plus great views. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace duck, in a sleek setting. £££. Daily L & D. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. www.brightcourtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. Station: Victoria. 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge. 74  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY DINING.indd 74 19/06/2018 10:46

WHERE PARTNERSHIP: IN ASSOCIATION WITH AFTERNOONTEA.CO.UK Time for tea London is famous for its afternoon tea – here’s our round-up of this month’s best. For more information, visit afternoontea.co.uk GALVIN AT THE ATHENAEUM THE ARCH LONDON W LONDON This royal tea is fit for the Queen, literally, Once seven Georgian townhouses and two This Leicester Square hotel has created a tea as many ingredients are produced by Royal mews homes, this Grade II-listed building inspired by an English garden. As well as scones, Warrant Holders which supply the Queen. near Bond Street also has a royal tea, which and cucumber and mint on walnut sourdough, As well as scones with Tiptree jam, try James is served in the Martini Library or Salon sample sweets paired with crystallised cocktails. Baxter potted shrimps – the late Queen de Champagne Lounge. After scones and Highlights include a mint mousse in a flower Mother’s favourite – Regent’s Park honey sandwiches stuffed with honey-roasted ham, pot with popping candy ‘dirt’, served with and roasted Dukeshill ham sandwiches, Eton you can nibble on English Cheddar with a Banana Republic shot; a Queen Bee cake mess, and orange and cardamom shortbread apple and raisin chutney on sun-blushed made of avocado, bee pollen and honey from – the Queen’s favourite. Sample teas from tomato bread. Save space for Battenburg Walthamstow followed by a Hayfever cocktail; Darvilles, Windsor’s oldest business and cake, pistachio trifle, chocolate orange tea and a rose water droplet served on Oreo and the Royal Household tea supplier. cake, strawberry and lemon curd tart. coffee ‘soil’ with a gin and Violette liqueur. 116 Piccadilly, W1J 7BJ. T: 020-7499 3464. 50 Great Cumberland Place, W1H 7FD. 10 Wardour St, W1D 6QF. T: 020-7758 www.gofortea.com/athenaeum T: 020-7724 4700. www.gofortea.com/arch 1000. www.gofortea.com/wlondon SKYLON LONDON MARRIOTT JUMEIRAH CARLTON TOWER If you’ve got a few space cadets in tow then HOTEL PARK LANE If you’ve visited Cadogan Hall, then enjoy they’ll find Skylon’s new Gravi-Tea out of this Celebrate summer with a new botanical tea a Summer Season tea to the serene sounds world. Inspired by the solar system, it features inspired by English gardens at Lanes of London, of a harpist. Sandwiches include bagels scones and sandwiches filled with avocado an Edwardian mansion overlooking Hyde Park. with roasted salmon and pickled cucumber, crème fraîche, cucumber and dill, as well as Tuck into fennel-cured salmon sandwiches, and spinach bread with goat’s cheese IMAGE © RAM SINGH PHOTOGRAPHERS ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE VENUE Jupiter cake, a cosmos mini choux, galaxy Earl Grey and raisin scones with orange and and asparagus. A strawberry and Tahitian macarons and cupcakes that look like planets. Kaffir lime jam, and sweets decorated with flower pot marks the Chelsea Flower Show, The meal is served on a three-tier stand by the edible butterflies and petals – you’ll love the while there’s a nod to Royal Ascot with the River Thames. Kids can sample loose-leaf teas, chocolate soil with ‘carrots’ in a plant pot. chocolate brownie with a peanut butter top while adults can have a StarDust cocktail Sip on an orange-scented Osmanthus, or try hat. The teas are exquisite – you can upgrade made with Tanqueray and lemon sherbet. a new floral cocktail such as Rose Garden. to a Champagne tea, too, if you fancy a tipple. Royal Festival Hall, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7654 140 Park Lane, W1K 7AA. T: 020-7647 1 Cadogan Place, SW1X 9PY. T: 020-7858 7800. www.gofortea.com/skylon 5664. www.gofortea.com/lanes 7185. www.gofortea.com/jumeirah www.wheretraveler.com   75 WL JULY DINING.indd 75 19/06/2018 10:47

DINING FISH AND SEAFOOD Brasserie Joël This excellent French brasserie serves classics GASTROPUBS Angler such as tuna tartare and beef bourguignon. The Eagle Michelin-starred seafood using seasonal and local £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasserie One of London’s first gastropubs, this rustic produce, such as Dorset crab and roast octopus. joel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, venue offers superior dishes such as roast pork £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.anglerrestaurant.com. SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: belly and grilled scallops, changing daily. £££. South Place Hotel, 3 South Place, EC2M 2AF. Waterloo/Westminster. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.theeaglefarringdon. T: 020-3215 1260. D10. Station: Moorgate. co.uk. 159 Farringdon Rd, EC1R 3AL. Brasserie Zédel T: 020-7837 1353. D9. Station: Farringdon. Fancy Crab This bustling French brasserie and bar is set Sample dishes including crab bisque, crab within a grand dining room with a high ceiling. The Wells fettucine and a crab burger. £££. Daily L & D. Its set menu is excellent value. £-££. Daily L & D. This bright and airy pub near Hampstead Heath www.fancycrab.co.uk. 92 Wigmore St, W1U 3RD. www.brasseriezedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, serves top-quality, seasonal British cuisine in T: 020-3096 9484. D6. Station: Bond Street. W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: a friendly, sophisticated environment. £££. Daily Piccadilly Circus. L & D. www.thewellshampstead.co.uk. 30 Well J. Sheekey Walk, NW3 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785. Off map. Seafood and oyster restaurant with a Champagne Céleste Station: Hampstead. bar that’s loved by celebrities. ££££. Daily L & D. Michelin-starred French cuisine in a smart www.j- sheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St. Martin’s Court, dining room. Try the Atlantic sea bass topped The Wigmore WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: with seaweed crust. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. Enjoy unusual dishes and bar snacks from a menu Covent Garden. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough created by Michel Roux Jr, in a refurbished bar hotel, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 with high ceilings and original Art Deco features. Poppie’s £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.the-wigmore.co.uk. 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. Traitional fish and chip shop decorated with 1950s 15 Langham Place, Regent St, W1B 3DE. memorabilia. £. Daily L & D. www.poppiesfishand Clos Maggiore T: 020-7965 0198. D6. Station: Oxford Circus. chips.co.uk. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. Exquisite dining room shrouded in T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square. plants and flowers, with an excellent wine list. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, INDIAN FRENCH WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Amaya The Michelin-starred cuisine here is full of exotic Covent Garden. Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester twists on Indian dishes, prepared in an open-grill Exquisite food, attentive service and a setting Sketch kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin to dress up for from this three-Michelin-starred Five restaurants and bars under one roof, the Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Advance booking Gallery is a stylish gastro brasserie adorned with art T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge. essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. by David Shrigley. Great afternoon tea. ££££. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 Daily L & D. www.sketch.uk.com. 9 Conduit St, W1S Benares 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. 2XG. T: 020-7659 4500. E7. Station: Oxford Circus. The Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates sophisticated modern Indian cuisine in his refined restaurant, with a delicious tasting menu and a cocktail lounge. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park. Chutney Mary Enjoy a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in this elegant recently relocated restaurant, that includes the Pukka bar. £££. Daily L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park. Gaylord This iconic Indian restaurant, more than 50 years old, serves North Indian plates including sheekh kebabs and Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus. Indian Accent Manish Mehrotra is regularly voted one of India’s best chefs, and now he’s opened this first London branch of his New Delhi restaurant. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. 16 Albemarle St, W1S 4HW. T: 020-7629 9802. www.indianaccent.com. E7. Station: Green Park. What lies beneath CAFÉ IN THE CRYPT © STEVE SHARP PHOTOGRAPHY Masala Zone In this vibrant restaurant, recently refurbished, enjoy tasty Indian street food, thalis and regional If you’re looking for a place to eat that’s central and full of atmosphere, head to Café in curries. ££. Daily L & D (and branches). the Crypt beneath St Martin-in-the-Fields in Trafalgar Square (p. 74). Tombstones line the www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. floor of the underground café, which features original brick-vaulted ceilings. The menu is T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus. traditional and homely; opt for porridge or an English fry-up for breakfast, while lunchtime Mint Leaf choices include soup, sandwiches and two hot mains each day, one of which is vegan. Contemporary Indian dishes are served in this For a treat, try desserts such as apple crumble, or afternoon tea which comes with stylish restaurant. Try the venison pepper roast. scones with clotted cream and Lamingtons – a sponge cake with dessicated coconut. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; daily D. www.mint leaflondon.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, If the sun is shining, you can eat outside in the courtyard and watch the world go by. SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. 76  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY DINING.indd 76 15/06/2018 10:35

ENJOY THE THALI AT Tamarind In the smart Mayfair dining room, enjoy Michelin- starred Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine, including lobster masala. £££. Daily L & D. REAL INDIAN FOOD www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park. Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant, Michelin- starred, has an opulent interior, with dishes such as six-hour cooked lamb shank. £££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy quality meat at this relaxed restaurant and bar, with 28-day-aged beef and fried hake. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria. The Cavendish This brasserie serves hearty mains such as lemon veal scallopini. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.35new cavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street. The Terrace With an opulent decor, this 150-year-old hotel BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY restaurant and bar serves salads, burgers and COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST Italian dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.amba-hotel. SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST com. Amba Hotel Charing Cross, The Strand, EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD M ASA LA ZO N E .COM WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross. ITALIAN Ask Italian Huge menu and outdoor seating at this friendly spot, with fresh pasta. Conveniently located near Paddington Station. ££. Daily L & D. 41-43 Spring St, W2 1JA (and branches). T: 020-8115 7091. www.askitalian.co.uk. D4. Station: Paddington. Cicchetti All-day dining venue with Italy’s regional specialities, from antipasti and cured meats to seafood dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden. Savini at Criterion Enjoy fine-dining Italian dishes in an opulent neo- Byzantine dining room inside a Grade II-listed building. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.savini atcriterion.co.uk. 224 Piccadilly, W1J 9HP. T: 020-7930 1459. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Verdi Italian Kitchen Dine on stone-baked pizzas or afternoon tea CAFÉ IN THE CRYPT © STEVE SHARP PHOTOGRAPHY in the famous music venue. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington. JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table for a theatrical experience. Try the Wagyu beef and hibachi prawn. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co. uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020- 7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. www.wheretraveler.com   77 WL JULY DINING.indd 77 15/06/2018 10:35

DINING Engawa This traditional Japanese restaurant, set in a quiet courtyard, has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts. ££££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Sakagura The menu at this izakaya-style ‘Japanese pub’ is designed to be shared, so order drinks alongside nibbles and small plates. ££. Daily L & D. www.sakaguralondon.com. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH Momo Decadent candlelit restaurant with authentic Moroccan decor, serving mezze mains such as duck couscous and lamb tagine. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Nopi Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi with an informal communal area plus dining room above. ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Yasmeen Raising the steaks Authentic Lebanese cuisine with excellent mezze, For a touch of old-world glamour, visit Gillray’s Steakhouse & Bar. The restaurant, which is charcoal-grilled meat, wraps and vegetarian located in County Hall, pays homage to its political heritage: it takes its name from James dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant. Gillray, a political caricaturist from the 18th century, and has his works lining the walls. com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 With views over the South Bank, the restaurant is ideal for experiencing the best of the 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood. capital. Begin with a gin cocktail, which is the bar’s speciality. The steaks are the main Yosma event: try the meat feast sharing platter, or opt for a sirloin, rib-eye or rump steak. Turkish cuisine in the heart of London at this London County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7902 8000. bright, informal restaurant, with imaginative www.gillrays.com. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo mezze, plus fish and meat dishes from the Josper grill. £££. Daily L & D. www.yosma.london. 50 Baker St, W1U 7BT. T: 020-3019 6282. D6. Station: Baker Street. Mango Tree Moro Fine-dining restaurant near Buckingham Palace North Africa meets Spain in this revered Moorish offers authentic Thai dishes, such as grilled restaurant, serving dishes such as wood-roasted RIVERSIDE Wagyu beef in spicy sauce. £££. Daily L & D. chicken with sage labneh. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. Bateaux London www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, See London’s sights on a river cruise while SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria. EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. enjoying modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D Station: Farringdon. cruises. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Thai Pot Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: This popular spot offers a huge range of good-value, authentic Thai dishes, including VEGETARIAN Embankment. stir-fried beef and Massaman curry. £. Mon-Sat L & The Gate The London Showboat D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. Latest branch of the well-known veggie restaurant, Dining cruises including two-course lunch, T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden. with Indian and Middle Eastern influences, and afternoon tea, and dinner with live jazz. £££-££££. dishes such as tofu tikka and couscous fritters. ££. Booking needed. www.citycruises.com. SPANISH Daily L & D; Sat & Sun B. www.thegaterestaurants. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and F8. Station: Westminster. El Pirata branches). T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Choose from a large range of authentic, hot and Marble Arch. RS Hispaniola cold tapas in this Mayfair bar-restaurant, Delightful moored restaurant boat on the including cured meats and fresh seafood. Tibits Thames serving British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D. There are good set menus to choose from. Enjoy dozens of dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/ ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. restaurant-bar. Choose from fresh salads, hot Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. dishes and healthy puddings, and pay by plate E8. Station: Embankment. Station: Hyde Park Corner. weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. SOUTH EAST ASIAN Iberica MEAT FEAST © JEAN CAZALS T: 020-7758 4112. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Traditional dishes and tapas are given a modern Chi Kitchen twist, plus classics including jamon Ibérico, artisan Woodlands Enjoy pan-Asian cuisine in a Debenhams cheeses and bocadillos. The stylish restaurant is Well-flavoured cuisine from throughout India, from department store and see the chefs at work close to Victoria coach station. ££-£££. Daily L & D. authentic street food to dosas and thalis. ££-£££. in an open-plan kitchen. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. www.chikitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ (and branches). 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus. T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria. T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street. 78  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY DINING.indd 78 15/06/2018 10:36

W H E R E L O N D O N P R O M O T I O N BEST OF LONDON DINING The Cafe in the Courtyard St Martin-in-the-Fields Take a break from a busy day of sightseeing and enjoy some London sunshine at the Café in the Courtyard. This seasonal outdoor café is located in the terrace just behind the church of St Martin-in-the- Fields, Trafalgar Square. Open daily from 8am (11am on Sundays), the Café in the Courtyard serves a delightful range of hot and cold drinks, pastries, baguettes, paninis, salads and soup throughout the day and in the evening there are scrumptious platters to share and a full wine list. The Café in the Courtyard is open until 9pm until the end of September and 5pm in October before it closes for the season. Café in the Courtyard, St Martin-in-the-Fields, WC2N 4JJ El Pirata Station: Charing Cross Email: café@smitf.org www.smitf.org For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. It’s informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón Ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/020-7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park LONDON’S MOVING RESTAURANT Travel through the heart of the city and enjoy the striking sights, live entertainment and delicious food on board our ‘f loating restaurant’. I LUNCH AFTERNOON TEA DINNER I I EVENTS I GIFTS www.cruises.london Tel: +44 (0)203 797 3617 /BateauxLondon @BateauxLondon /bateauxlondon WHERE LONDON_HALF PAGE_BATEAUX_AUG2017.indd 1 07/08/2017 14:57 www.wheretraveler.com   79 BEST OF LONDON DINING HALF PAGE JUL 18.indd 79 15/06/2018 10:44

NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE Raise the roof If you are in need of a sundowner, join Sarah Riches as she sips her way around London’s rooftop bars and enjoys spectacular views of the city There are plenty of sights where you can above the Thames and you’ll spot the Walkie enjoy a view over London. But as the sun Talkie and Cheesegrater to your right and comes out – or sets – now is the time to visit the BT Tower to your left. The bar hosts live a rooftop bar for an alternative view over music on Wednesdays and DJs on Thursdays the city. For a close-up of St Paul’s Cathedral to Saturdays (www.rumpusroomlondon.com). – and a distant look at the Coca-Cola London OXO Tower Restaurant, Bar and Brasserie’s Eye – you can’t beat the rooftop terrace at 76m-long terrace rivals Rumpus Room’s, and Madison (below) on the top floor of the is just next door. Sit in the sun or watch it set shopping centre One New Change. On a while sitting on artificial grass and enjoy sunny day, treat yourself to a Pimm’s and sit a glass of wine (www.oxotower.co.uk). on banquettes and cubes in the shade of sun For a more laid-back, playful vibe, head to umbrellas, or go later to catch the sunset – Skylight at Tobacco Dock – a short walk from heaters will keep you warm after night falls. St Katharine Docks and the Tower of London. Trees and a ‘living wall’ of plants liven up the It has three floors, each of which has bars space (www.madisonlondon.net). serving seasonal cocktails alongside spritzes, Coq d’Argent is just down the road. Its beers, pitchers, punches, bubbly and wine. rooftop garden has a walkway around it and You can also sample street food, play croquet enough space for topiary and a manicured and pétanque, watch sports matches and lawn. Parts of it are heated and covered with dance to DJs (www.skylightlondon.com). large parasols, while the open-air section The Queen of Hoxton bar in Shoreditch has views of the Walkie Talkie, Cheesegrater also has a rooftop that combines drinks and and Gherkin skyscrapers nearby, as well as games. The roof will transport you to the world The Shard in the distance. Come here for of ‘Lost Vegas’ in 2030, as it will be decked out summery cocktails such as the Pothecary, like the Las Vegas strip in ruins after it’s been made with gin, sparkling wine, rose syrup consumed by the jungle. Buy vegan hot dogs and strawberries (www.coqdargent.co.uk). from a yellow school bus bar, meet Elvis in Rumpus Room, a rooftop bar atop an overgrown Little Vegas Wedding Chapel, Mondrian London hotel, has views of St play slot machines, and buy wedding rings Paul’s Cathedral from its floor-to-ceiling and divorce certificates from the vending windows. Drink cocktails on its balcony machines (www.queenofhoxton.com). 72  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY NIGHTLIFE .indd 80 19/06/2018 10:50

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 88-89) TRADITIONAL PUBS Waxy O’Connor’s Long-standing Irish bar, with four bars over six Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance The Blackfriar levels. It has regular live music, and also screens Hotel has a 29m-long bar, surrounded by cavernous This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxy arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to opened 100 years ago, offers traditional cask ales. oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. 1873. There’s also a good menu of bar snacks. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross. Waxy’s Little Sister Cittie of Yorke A smaller, slightly quieter sister venue to the Burlock The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and huge Waxy’s O’Connor’s, which has traditional Irish Rum is definitely the spirit of choice here, in a relaxed chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building beers and whiskies, and also great bar food. bar that specialises in many types of cocktails take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint of beer in this www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D using the Caribbean spirit and unusual ingredients. traditional pub for a real taste of historic London. 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. www.burlocklondon.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. 22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street. D9. Station: Chancery Lane. Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This Grade II-listed pub was built soon after BYOC The Dog and Duck the Great Fire of 1666, and has vaults which At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’, pay £30, bring a A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers are even older than that. Enjoy a pint of English spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons ale and dine on a range of simple pub food. cocktails for you. Booking is recommended. pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road. D9. Station: Blackfriars. St, NW1 7JE (and branches). T: 020-3441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent. The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley BARS & CLUBS Cartizze Bar as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the 68 and Boston Cocktail destination in Mayfair majoring in timeless flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. Sophisticated venue with separate cocktail and wine luxury, known for its Bellinis, with elegant Art Deco T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate. bars. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. surroundings and bar food including oysters. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. The French House T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street. Creative types love this quirky, cosy pub in the The Back Room heart of Soho: there is no music. www.french Located next to Hard Rock Cafe, the bar has Camino Bankside housesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020- vintage and iconic music items. Enjoy cocktails, This cellar bar is the UK’s first dedicated cava 7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road. pizzas and burgers, plus a great vibe. www.hard venue. Enjoy tapas sharing platters. www.cava.co.uk. rock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020- 33 Blackfriars Lane, EC4V 6EP (and branches). The George Inn 7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park. T: 020-7125 0930. D9. Station: Blackfriars. This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge. The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, with FACING PAGE: MADISON © JUSTINE TRICKETT. THIS PAGE: STAR OF INDIA COCKTAIL COURTESY OF VIJAY’S BAR & LOUNGE wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away, making it a romantic spot. The beers and food are good. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food, including steak pies. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Circus. The Magpie & Stump Opposite the Old Bailey, the pub dates back to the 1500s and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. D9. Station: St Paul’s. The Punchbowl This popular Mayfair pub-restaurant offers A Mumbai affair to remember a variety of ales in its unique, classy surroundings. Vijay’s Bar & Lounge in Fitzrovia is inspired by the whirlwind romance between www.punchbowllondon.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. Mumbai gangster Vijay Kapur and Lady Charlotte. The bar pays homage to its dramatic T: 020-7493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park. roots with a bronze chandelier and a silver elephant. Perfect for a nightcap, you can sip The Spaniards Inn Champagne, whisky or cocktails infused with floral syrups and Indian spices – try the Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including Like a Bird, which arrives in a glass bird hanging in a lantern. Vijay’s Lounge also serves Dick Turpin and Charles Dickens, at this pub – one Indian tapas, while its sister restaurant Lokhandwala is located on the ground floor. of the oldest in London. Its Sunday roast and pies 93 Charlotte St, W1T 4PY. T: 020-7637 7599. www.lokhandwala.co.uk. D7. are popular – booking is advisable. www.the Station: Goodge Street spaniardshampstead.co.uk. Spaniard’s Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead. www.wheretraveler.com   81 WL JULY NIGHTLIFE .indd 81 19/06/2018 10:52

NIGHTLIFE C.O.L.D Bar Looking Glass Cocktail Club St Pancras Champagne Bar (The City of London Distillery) Enter a giant glass into a dimly-lit room decorated Europe’s longest Champagne bar takes pride of This retro-styled basement cocktail bar is a with Louis XVI-inspired furniture. This speakeasy place in the station where the Paris Eurostar arrives. working gin distillery, and offers tastings, classes has regular DJs, live music and performances. There is a button you can press for refills. and tours. It’s tucked away down an alleyway in 49 Hackney Rd, E2 7NX. T: 020-7613 3936. www.searcyschampagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras an atmospheric, old part of the City. www.cityof www.lookingglasslondon.co.uk. Off map. International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, londondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. Station: Hoxton. N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: T: 020-7936 3636. D9. Station: Blackfriars. St Pancras King’s Cross. Mews Cocktail Bar Drakes Tabanco Deep leather sofas and an Six Storeys A Spanish-style tapas bar that serves rare sherries, 18th-century chandelier set As the name suggests, this Soho aged in ancient oak barrels. There are also craft the tone for exquisite wines, Square townhouse is split over six Five of London’s beers, natural wines and Andalucian-inspired fresh fruit cocktails and light levels. Each floor is decorated in a Underground stations tapas dishes. www.drakestabanco.com. dishes in a classy neighbourhood. are named after pubs, bohemian style, with plush chairs, 3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 9388. www.mewsofmayfair.com. including Angel and vintage lampshades and patterned D7. Station: Goodge Street. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020- Swiss Cottage wallpaper. Cocktails are its speciality 7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street. – try the quince and blue cheese- Dukes Bar infused gin. www.sixstoreys.com. Outstanding bar located in the hotel of the same The Nightjar 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 020-3504 7381. name, and renowned for its superior Martinis. Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road. Oozing old-world charm, with leather armchairs stylish basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music in a cosy interior, the Martinis are made at your most nights. The elaborate cocktails are amazing. Social 24 table and served from a century-old wooden www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. The bar next to Jason Atherton’s trolley. www.dukeshotel.com. Dukes London, T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street. restaurant has an Art Deco interior, a Prohibition- 35 St James Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840. inspired cocktail list and amazing views. www.city E7. Station: Green Park. Old Bengal Bar sociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, This place is converted from a former warehouse EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Experimental Cocktail Club located in a quiet back street, with original brick Liverpool Street. In an old Chinatown townhouse, this stylish bar is walls and leather sofas. Enjoy classic cocktails. tucked away, but worth the search for its inventive www.oldbengalbar.com. 16a New St, EC2M 4TR. Trader Vic’s cocktails. Email booking is highly recommended. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street. This popular tiki-style basement bar is more than www.experimentalcocktailclublondon.com. 50 years old. Relax and enjoy a mai tai cocktail, 13a Gerrard St, W1D 5PS. T: 020-7434 3559. Opium Cocktail Bar surrounded by Polynesian wooden masks. Live Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of E7. Station: Leicester Square. music is staged on Friday and Saturday nights. dimly-lit rooms styled like a 1920s Shanghai bar. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Freedom Sip a lychee Martini and choose food from the Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to dim sum menu. www.opiumchinatown.com. Station: Hyde Park Corner. its stylish cocktail bar and nightclub. The menu Booking is recommended. 15 Gerrard St, also has an extensive tequila and sambuca shots W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Trader’s Wine Bar list. www.freedombarsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, Leicester Square. Sample a wide range of wines from around the W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: globe in this intimate venue, inspired by centuries Tottenham Court Road. Oriole This is featured on the World’s 50 Best Bars list of merchant ships sailing up the Thames. Try Gong last year, this spacious cocktail bar is below a sharing board of cured meats and cheeses. Located on level 52 of Shangri-La Smithfield Market. It stages live jazz and blues www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Hotel inside The Shard, this is one of the highest music most nights, all in beautiful, explorer-decor Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 Champagne bars in London and is the ideal place surroundings. www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill. for sunset cocktails. The food menu includes Markets, East Poultry Ave, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 The Vault caviar and sashimi platters. On Thursday, Friday 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon. The specialist whisky bar Milroy’s has tables made and Saturday nights, a DJ plays by the pool area of barrels, while The Vault, behind the bookcases, from 8.30pm. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas Primo Bar Enjoy cocktails in this laid-back bar, which stages is a speakeasy with cosy arches. 3 Greek St, St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: W1D 4NX. www.thevaultsoho.co.uk. D7. Station: free live music every night. Its location makes London Bridge. Tottenham Court Road. a great meeting spot. The venue focuses on Good Godfreys acoustic sounds, bringing artists and bands The Zetter Townhouse Old-style glamour and classic cocktails are served around the world, and it puts up-and-coming Tony Conigliaro is known for his groundbreaking with a hint of history at this suave establishment. talent in the spotlight. The menu includes cocktails in this lounge, with eccentric decor Try signature cocktails including the Astor Hip beef burgers, pastas and salads. www.primo incorporting leather armchairs, velvet cushions Flask, named after the New York Waldorf Astoria’s bar.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, and a cosy fireplace. www.thezettertownhouse. owner. www.waldorfhilton.co.uk. The Waldorf SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo. com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 Hilton, Aldwych, WC2B 4DD. T: 020-7836 2400. E8. Station: Covent Garden. Reverend JW Simpson 4545. C9. Station: Farringdon. This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ Gordon’s Wine Bar – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good CASINOS London’s oldest wine bar has been Reverend. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candlelit its hallmark. You can also sign up for a cocktail The Casino at the Empire stone-arched basement. Try to go early to grab masterclass. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge This spectacular venue houses a restaurant and a table as it can get very busy. www.gordons St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: several bars, plus a dedicated poker room and winebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. Goodge Street. the latest table and electronic games. www.the T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment. casinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. Scarfes Bar T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square. Jack Solomon’s Club This elegant bar is named after satirical cartoonist This new basement speakeasy bar in Soho is Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures of the Hippodrome Casino accessed by a hidden entrance, and boasts iconic British figures that are painted on the walls. Massive West End venue with gaming on three old-school glamour. Take your pick from special Enjoy cocktails inspired by famous characters floors, including roulette and baccarat. There’s cocktails and a large dance floor. Email for the Scarfe has drawn, with Indian-style bar snacks also a restaurant, plus a basement venue for live guest list. 41 Great Windmill St, W1D 7LU. (p. 46). www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood London music. www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn www.jacksolomons.com. E7. Station: hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. Piccadilly Circus. 8611. D8. Station: Holborn. E7. Station: Leicester Square. 82  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY NIGHTLIFE .indd 82 15/06/2018 10:46

The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy a poker lounge and sports bar, plus informal dining. www.thesportsmancasino.com. 16 Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch. LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 606 Club This relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant serves great food to blues and R ’n’ B music, played by British-based independent artists on stage. There is also an intimate basement club and restaurant. Liane Carroll, Polly Gibbons and Jamie Cullum have performed here. www.606club. co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway. The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus there’s a DJ at weekends. There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye. It also serves American- style food such as buffalo wings, gumbo and cornbread. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN (and branches). T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town. Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar, with lots of live entertainment, this Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out. Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG (and Battersea branch). T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Holborn. The Comedy Store One of the UK’s best stand-up and improvised comedy spots. The Comedy Store Players (Sun) sees the likes of Paul Merton and Neil Mullarkey, and there are also late-night stand-up slots. www.thecomedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. London Cabaret Club British-themed cabaret venue. Best of British Pop fuses acrobatics and dance with hits from the 1960s to the present day. Dinner and VIP tickets available. A DJ takes over until 3am. www.thelondoncabaretclub.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn. Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Sarah Vaughan, Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it perfect for families to enjoy jazz music together. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road. Stringfellows Over the years, a vast number of celebrities and members of the public have enjoyed entertainment supplied by more than 80 ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables at the late Peter Stringfellow’s world-famous Gentlemen’s Club and restaurant. Make sure you visit the opulent, velvet-adorned Red Rooms. Free entry when dining – the food is impressive. www.stringfellows. co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square. www.wheretraveler.com   83 WL JULY NIGHTLIFE .indd 83 15/06/2018 10:46

SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE The sky’s the limit If you’re looking for some inspiration as you exercise, then drop in to one of these yoga classes that have awe-inspiring views of the city, says Kohinoor Sahota What do you think of when you hear the are set in an enclosed roof garden. Whether the capital, but it also boasts the world’s word ‘yoga’? India, the gym or just a sweaty you are a beginner or a yoga aficionado, all highest yoga class. You can enjoy a private room with hot yoga? London is changing abilities are welcome. You are taken through session for two at the top of The Shard, your perceptions of the practice, by asanas, or postures, by instructor Phoebe which includes an optional breakfast and providing classes in spectacular settings. Greenacre. Each class includes a smoothie, Champagne – that is if you have £1,350 to If you are after something exclusive, then re-energising protein balls by the hotel’s pastry spare. If your budget doesn’t stretch that far, visit The Berkeley hotel (below) in Belgravia, chef, a fruit platter and a pass to use the pool. there are also drop-in yoga classes on level 24 near Harrods – the sister hotel to Claridge’s. Knut Wylde, The Berkeley’s general manager, with a view of Tower Bridge on evenings and The sophisticated hideaway has a luxury spa says: ‘Rooftop yoga captures the spirit of what weekends, for a mere £25. and a rooftop pool, which has views looking we are all about, combining traditional wellness Meanwhile, at Tower Bridge you can enjoy onto Hyde Park and beyond. Known for with something a little quirky and fun. We are a yoga class on its glass walkway at sunrise. its creative classes, it has previously held delighted to work with our neighbours Silou Located 42 metres above the River Thames, hula-hooping and synchronised swimming London and bring a touch of our stylish it’s hard not to be inspired as you look down classes, and this summer it has collaborated neighbourhood to our rooftop’ (Fri-Sat from at pedestrians and the South Bank, or revel with Silou London to offer yoga classes. £65 per person; www.the-berkeley.co.uk). at being on one of the world’s most famous There’s an exclusive feel to the classes: only six The Shard (p. 36) may be Western Europe’s bridges. In a city that doesn’t sleep, you’ll be guests are accepted at a time, and the sessions tallest building, offering unrivalled views across feeling zen in no time. IMAGE COURTESY OF THE BERKELEY HOTEL 84  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY SPAS.indd 84 19/06/2018 10:55

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. AVENA MASSAGE References at the end of listings (A1 etc) refer to coordinates on map p. 88-89 by qualified female masseuse. SPAS The Refinery This men-only spa has treatments ranging Total relaxation, Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow from a traditional shave to a sports massage. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book revitalising massage. dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street. Please call to book an www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel appointment at your WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn. Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments and a 24-hour hotel, home or our This exclusive members-only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in the 17m pool, use the gym. Luxury treatments include a gold age- studio on: defying facial and a carat diamond face and body 07879 697478 fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon. ritual. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. The Spa at Dolphin Square Station: Imperial Wharf. Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Body Relaxation Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with High-quality, deep-tissue massage directly in a hammam. There is also a menu for hen parties. your hotel room, apartment or at the Sloane www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V Street studio. Open until late. T: 07941-505982. 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico. Chuan Spa Spa Illuminata Step inside this luxury spa that has recently been Recently voted the Best Day Spa in London by refurbished. It uses the principles of Chinese Condé Nast Johansens, the menu includes facials, medicine to rebalance your mind, body and massages and a men’s menu. Anti-ageing spirit. www.chuanspa.com. 2 Cavendish Place, treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin W1B 3DE. T: 020-7973 7550. D6. Station: peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, Oxford Circus. W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch. Late appointments available Elemis Day Spa Ushvani This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, Plush spa with a philosophy that is based pigmentation and blemishes. There is a private on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic suite, so you can share the experience with your approach. Treatments include a Malay massage guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa and Balinese massage, which incorporates spices. offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020- 7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square. Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, SALONS and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their Gentlemen’s Tonic APPLYING SCIENCE natural skincare range. Treatments include an This is a stylish, men-only grooming establishment anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and TO PERSONAL TRAINING face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Using the power of genetics to design D8. Station: Bond Street. Station: Bond Street. Personal Training sessions on the most personal level possible! Mandara Spa Geo F Trumper This spa has an Asian touch: the gorgeous decor A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers includes a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant and Japanese shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. massage, where bamboo stalks are used on T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park. your body. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza Hotel, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. Hershesons Blow Dry Bar T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo. At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from Mandarin Oriental a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. A luxury spa inspired by traditional Chinese www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, massage methods. The spa has recently W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street. IMAGE COURTESY OF THE BERKELEY HOTEL undergone a major refurbishment. Facilities include a 17m-long pool and a gym offering Jo Hansford personal trainer sessions. www.mandarinoriental. This hair-colour salon, which is home to top com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. BASED ON RICHMOND HILL, One Aldwych T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch. COVERING LONDON ZONES 1-4 This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used Windle & Moodie WWW.SKPERSONAL .TRAINING are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club This award-winning hair salon specialises is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute speed Enquire to see a trainer today, has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. styling service includes updos. www.windleand call: 07568 565084 One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. D8. Station: Covent Garden. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden. www.wheretraveler.com   85 WL JULY SPAS.indd 85 15/06/2018 10:51

ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards AT YOUR SERVICE An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by Concierges in the capital use Where London for bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. information – these concierges share their top tips You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. Fabrizio Piras Konrad Kucharczyk Stuart Aubrey Head concierge at Assistant head concierge at Concierge at GETTING AROUND The London EDITION Park Plaza Sherlock Holmes The Dorchester For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ What’s the most What’s the most Any strange requests? visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234. popular request? popular request? One guest wanted me to ‘Is Buckingham Palace open As it’s summer, our guests arrange for someone to London Underground (The Tube) yet?’ and ‘how do I get ask me about sightseeing make a 3D, carved wooden www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map to Wimbledon?’ tours, hop-on, hop-off buses backdrop for a music video, (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Changing the Guard. and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The   and another guest wanted Night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Any strange requests? me to get his music played FABRIZIO PIRAS COURTESY OF THE LONDON EDITION; KONRAD KUCHARCZYK COURTESY OF THE PARK PLAZA; STUART AUBREY COURTESY OF THE DORCHESTER; Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and I had to fly abroad to hand- Any strange requests? on Radio 1 – but that hasn’t Piccadilly lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare deliver personal belongings One guest asked me to happened yet! costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card). to a guest. They wouldn’t arrange a helicopter trip consider courier options. to Cardiff at 3am. What are your tips on how London Buses UMBRELLA COURTESY OF JAMES SMITH & SONS; TATE MODERN COURTESY OF TATE MODERN; KEW GARDENS COURTESY OF RBG KEW GARDENS   to do London in a day? London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses What are your tips on how Any family-friendly ideas? Walk through Green Park to (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes to do London in a day? Leeds Castle combines Buckingham Palace to see (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay Walk from Trafalgar Square history with a massive Changing the Guard, then for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster to Whitehall, admiring playground in the visit The Royal Mews or card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ Buckingham Palace, castle grounds. Churchill War Rooms. Walk buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card Westminster Abbey and over Westminster Bridge to or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Parliament along the way. Any romantic ideas? Tate Modern, or take the Take a boat to the Tower of Watch the sunset over the boat to the Tower of London. London Overground London to see the Crown London skyline from the www.tfl.gov.uk.Trains run Mon-Sat Jewels, then continue to top of Parliament Hill on Any romantic ideas? 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes. Greenwich to enjoy sunset Hampstead Heath, followed Wander through the Royal Please check for 24-hour service at weekends. views from Greenwich Park. by dinner in Little Venice. Botanic Gardens, Kew. Docklands Light Railway Share a hidden gem. Share a hidden gem Share a quintessentially Trains run approximately every three-and- James Smith & Sons. The a-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am- Holland Park and its English experience 12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700. peaceful Kyoto Gardens weather is unpredictable, Glyndebourne Opera, a – it’s a small, gorgeous so everyone should buy an festival in East Sussex, is just Trains hidden paradise. umbrella from that shop.  an hour or so from London. Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. From left to right: Liverpool Street and Fenchurch James Smith & Sons; Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Tate Modern; Kew Gardens Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras International (connects to King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, and southeast England. Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England. For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950. Eurostar uses St Pancras International. Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 01233-617 575). 86  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY ESSENTIALS.indd 86 19/06/2018 10:58

ESSENTIALS Willesden Green Stoke Seven Kings Upminster Finchley Road Kentish Holloway Road Newington Leytonstone Wanstead Bridge Stonebridge Park Kentish Town & Frognal Town West High Road Park Ilford Highbury & Rectory St. James Harlesden Kilburn Belsize Park Caledonian Road Islington Road Street Manor Park Hornchurch Brondesbury Dalston Park West Camden Kingsland Clapton Stratford Leyton Woodgrange Willesden Junction Hampstead Chalk Farm Road International Forest Park Caledonian Hackney Gate Elm Park Kensal Rise Brondesbury Camden Town Road & Canonbury Downs Hackney Hackney Finchley Road Maryland Dagenham East Kensal Green Barnsbury Central Wick Swiss Cottage Queen’s Park Kilburn South Mornington Stratford Dagenham Heathway High Road Hampstead St. John’s Wood Crescent Dalston Junction Homerton King’s Cross Becontree St. Pancras Kilburn Park Edgware Great Haggerston London Fields Stratford Upney Maida Vale Paddington Road Marylebone Baker Portland High Euston Cambridge Heath Street Barking Warwick Avenue Street Street Hoxton Royal Oak Angel Bethnal Green Pudding East Ham Bethnal Mile Abbey Westbourne Park Mill Lane Road Warren Street Euston Green End Upton Park Edgware Square Farringdon Old Street Road Regent’s Park Plaistow Ladbroke Grove Shoreditch Barbican High Street Bayswater Russell Bow Bromley- West Ham Latimer Road Square Moorgate Road by-Bow Goodge Bow Church East White Shepherd’s Notting Lancaster Bond Oxford Chancery Acton City Bush Gate Street Lane Hill Gate Street Circus Holborn Liverpool Stepney Green Devons Road St. Paul’s Street Aldgate Star Lane Tottenham Langdon North Holland Queensway Marble East Whitechapel Park Acton Park Arch Court Road Bank Wood Lane Covent Garden Aldgate Canning High Street All Saints Kensington Cannon Town Royal Green Park Shadwell Westferry Poplar Victoria Shepherd’s Leicester Mansion Street Bush Market Hyde Park Corner Piccadilly Square House Custom House for ExCeL Kensington Circus Monument Tower Limehouse Blackwall East Knightsbridge Charing India Emirates Prince Regent Goldhawk Road (Olympia) Hill Royal Cross Fenchurch Street Tower West India Blackfriars Gateway Wapping Docks Royal Albert Barons Gloucester Quay Hammersmith Court Road Sloane St. James’s River Thames Square Park West Beckton Park Temple Silvertown London Bridge Rotherhithe Canary Wharf Cyprus Stamford Ravenscourt West Earl’s South Victoria Westminster Embankment Canada North Emirates Brook Park Kensington Court Kensington Bermondsey Heron Quays Greenwich Water Greenwich Peninsula Pontoon Gallions West Brompton South Quay Dock Reach Waterloo Beckton Crossharbour London City Fulham Broadway Pimlico Airport Surrey Quays Mudchute Parsons Green Imperial Southwark Borough Island Gardens Wharf King George V Lambeth Putney Bridge North Cutty Sark for 17/E/3249/P Step-free access River Thames Maritime Greenwich from street to train Vauxhall East Putney Elephant & Castle Greenwich Step-free access New Cross Gate from street to Southfields Queens Road New Cross Services or access at these stations are subject to variation. Deptford Bridge Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details. platform Peckham Brockley Kensington (Olympia) open weekends and on some public holidays Elverson Road Bakerloo Central Circle District Hammersmith Jubilee Metropolitan Northern Piccadilly Victoria Waterloo & City DLR Emirates Air Line Overground TfL Rail & City cable car *Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details. Transport for London Reg. user No. 17/E/3249/P Version D 7.2017 Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel Correct at time of going to print Accessible London Emirates Air Line cable car UMBRELLA COURTESY OF JAMES SMITH AND SONS; TATE MODERN COURTESY OF TATE MODERN; KEW GARDENS COURTESY OF RBG KEW GARDENS Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, London’s only cable car runs across the River including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and river services at www.visitlondon.com/ and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can access and www.openbritain.net. board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are Taxis available). You can buy a combined ticket with You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline. or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against using any vehicle that approaches On foot you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. It’s often quicker to get around London by www.tfl.gov.uk. walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ Car hire legiblelondon. Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. 4x4 Vehicle Santander Cycles Hire: T: 01245-410535. www.4x4vehiclehire.co.uk. There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall stations throughout central London. £2 to hire the Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com. first 30 minutes. There’s no need to book, but Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. www.enterprise.co.uk. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666. 24-hour Tube lines Congestion Charge The service runs on Fridays and Saturdays There is a congestion charge to drive into central Coaches on the following lines. More are due London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or London’s main coach services use Victoria UNDERGROUND SIGN © ISTOCK; MAP COURTESY OF TFL on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). to open soon. Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 to destinations around the UK and some parts • Jubilee line: Across the entire line. 9122. www.cclondon.com. of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands. • Victoria line: Across the entire line. SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ • Northern line: Between Morden and River services coaches Victoria. Map D4. www.tfl.gov.uk/river Camden Town and between Camden MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames Town and High Barnet/Edgware. clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus DELIVERY • Piccadilly line: Between Cockfosters serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes. and Heathrow Terminal 5. Adult prices start from £4.40. River Roamer ticket Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal • Central line: Between White City and (unlimited hop-on/hop-off all day from 9am). Adult £19; child (5-15) £9.50; family (two adults, up to three services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway children) just £38. Children under five travel free. more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. and White City; and between Leytonstone Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with Mail Boxes is a trained certified packer. and Loughton/Hainault. a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, or via the app or online. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london. www.wheretraveler.com   87 WL JULY ESSENTIALS.indd 87 15/06/2018 10:54

4 MILES John JohnLewis LewisOxford OxfordStreet Streetstore. store.AAgreat greatBritish Britishfav fa WL JOHN LEWIS MAP v2.indd 88 15/06/2018 09:14

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WHERE NOW | HÉLÈNE DARROZE My Perfect Day HÉLÈNE DARROZE CHEF Hélène Darroze is a French chef who has three restaurants across the world. Hélène Darroze at The Connaught holds two Michelin Stars and four AA Rosettes. She has been admitted into the French Legion of Honour as a Chevalier What are your favourite buildings? How do you prefer to travel? Tell us about your restaurant. I love Liberty department store. The building London’s taxi service is the best in the world. Firstly, guests would have a unique welcome was constructed from the timbers of two ancient The drivers are always so kind and often share to the restaurant. Located at The Connaught in battle ships. At the entrance on Great Marlborough interesting facts with you. To be able to memorise Mayfair, it’s a hotel rich in history. They’d have an Street, you can see a gold ship. The weathervane all the streets is incredible. exclusive and personal experience. The produce is a replica of The Mayflower, which transported I get from my suppliers is exceptional – the best. the Pilgrims to the New World in 1620. Is there a place in London that holds a special memory for you? What would be your ideal entertainment? What are your favourite galleries? The Mayfair neighbourhood is very special, I’m a fan of Bach’s Cello Suites. My friends Renaud The Victoria and Albert Museum is an inspiring particularly Mount Street and Mount Street Capuçon and Gautier Capuçon play the violin and AND HARRODS © ISTOCK; DISHES BY HÉLÈNE DARROZE © JOHN CAREY; CELLO © ISTOCK/BRIAN A JACKSON place. From fashion to history and artefacts, Gardens – my girls went to school there. the cello. When they play in town, I support them. ALADDIN © DISNEY/DEEN VAN MEER; HÉLÈNE DARROZE COURTESY OF THE CONNAUGHT; HYDE PARK there is something for everyone. Tate Modern When I picked them up, we’d stop by The My daughters love shows: we went to see Aladdin, gallery, with its breathtaking views of the River Mount Street Deli for hot chocolate and we’ve seen The Lion King three times! Thames, is another favourite. It has great art on and then go to the library. display, including works by Matisse and Rothko. Do you have a favourite hotel in London? Where do you like to drink? I love Claridge’s. Martyn Nail, the executive chef, Where do you like shopping? My favourite bar in London is the always spoils me and my girls when we visit. Harrods in Knightsbridge is great. Not only is Connaught Bar in The Connaught hotel. The Berkeley’s new suites, designed by acclaimed the building beautiful, but it has great brands They have a beautiful Martini trolley interior designer André Fu, are great. and beautiful new food halls. When the weather they take from table to table when is good, I like to visit independent stores and making them. It’s truly theatrical. What makes London special? shop around Portobello Road or Mount Street. London is eccentric, multicultural and Where do you enjoy eating? just wonderful. It’s probably the only What is your favourite green space? I often take my daughters to ROKA city in the world where I get a great Hyde Park. There’s so much there, including horses because they love Japanese food, feeling of liberty and independence. and swans, that it’s hard to believe it’s so central. and the staff are fantastic with kids. Carlos Place, W1K 2AL. T: 020-3147 7200. The Clove Club is also a great www.the-connaught.co.uk Do you have a favourite café? restaurant – when my friends The Electric Diner on Portobello Road. I love visit me, I always take them the exposed bricks and the red leather booths. there. The food is so creative. Clockwise from top left: You can sit outside at the weekend and watch London is such a multicultural Aladdin; Hélène Darroze; Hyde everyone go by. And if the weather isn’t great, city that whatever you’re looking Park; dishes from Hélène Darroze you can pop into the Electric Cinema next door. for, you’ll find the best of it here. at The Connaught; cello; Harrods 90  W H E R E LO N D O N I J U LY 2018 WL JULY MY PERFECT DAY.indd 82 15/06/2018 10:58

R K PA EY BL EM W THE WEMBLEY STADIUM TOUR GO BEHIND THE SCENES OF THE UK’S LARGEST SPORTING AND MUSIC VENUE wembleystadium.com/tours +44 (0)800 169 9933 Special group rates available TOURS DEPART DAILY: 10:00 – 15:00 PRINTED TRANSLATION GUIDES AVAILABLE IN 10 LANGUAGES WL WEMBLEY.indd 1 11/06/2018 17:29

The Sunday Telegraph THE UNTOLD STORY OF THE WITCHES OF OZ FOR THE BEST SEAT LOCATIONS, CHOOSE PREMIUM SEATS WickedTheMusical.co.uk • #WickedUK APOLLO VICTORIA THEATRE • SW1V 1LG ©WLPL WKD088_WHERE WL WICKED.indd LONDON_MAY_206x276_AW.indd 1 1 19/03/2018 17:29 11/06/2018 15:26