American World Traveler Summer 2017 Issue

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China Canada’s 150th Buenos Aires Cruises Hotels & Resorts Traveler A M E R I C A N W O R L D Summer 2017 A New Romance With C U B A Already 15 Years! C o m e W i t h U s & S e e T h e Wo r l d !

Published by Welcome to World Traveler I American World Traveler 347 5th Ave, suite 1402 Buenos Aires to partake in the best this New York, NY 10016 n this issue, we start our travels by cel- worldly city has to offer. ebrating Canada’s 150th birthday; first Canadian World Traveller we head for adventure and the beauti- Next we jet off to Melbourne to taste its won- 5473 Royalmount, suite 224 ful natural setting of Golden, BC, before derful cuisine, including the exceptional TMR (Montreal) Qc H4P 1J3 going to the wonderful prairie city of Vegan restaurants offered. Our whirl-wind Winnipeg, Manitoba. Next stop is Southern tour continues as we now find ourselves in Tel, : 1-855-738-8232 Ontario for some fabulous bird watching. So Asia and travel to the four corners of far away but so close to Canadians, we com- ‘Beautiful China’ to discover the fascinating, www.americanworldtraveler.com memorate the fallen at Vimy Ridge, France, historic and important land and maritime silk www.canadianworldtraveller.com and lastly we relax at two great Charlevoix routes that connected this land to the world. hotels. info@americanworldtraveler.com While in China, we also visit Hong Kong to info@canadianworldtraveller.com Heading south of the border we find some of discover the ‘Heritage, Arts, Culture & the best Foodie places New York City has to Cuisine’ of this exciting city. To conclude our Publisher trip in Asia we go to northern India for a offer before we mosey into the quaint Texan Michael Morcos town of Fredericksburg. Next in the USA we motorcycle ride through the picturesque go bask in the warm, sunny Florida sun for mountainous region of Leh-Ladakh. Editor-in-chief Greg James some of the best this state has to offer. From here, we head for relaxing adventures in In Africa, we find ‘The Urban Renaissance of Contributing Editor Cuba, the ‘Rising Star’. While there, we take Johannesburg’. In Europe we find the best David J. Cox a wonderful cruise that circumnavigates this Turkey has to offer in the field of medical great island. Still in the Caribbean, we fly out treatments, and finally in Spain we raise a Graphic Department to the Dominican Republic and kick back at toast to the wonderful grape harvesting sea- Al Cheong the ultra-luxurious Puntacana Resort & Club. son. Continuing in The Americas, we now head to Advertising Department Happy Travels! Leo Santini Marketing Department Tania Tassone Distribution Royce Dillon Senior Travel Writers: Susan Campbell Steve Gillick Regular Contributors: Habeeb Salloum Jennifer Merrick Natalie Ayotte Johanna Read Ron Paquet Cherie Delory Alan G. luke Jasmine Morcos W Olivia Balsinger hy spend days recovering when you can take this Ilona Kauremszky Mike Cohen homeopathic remedy during the flight and feel Mathieu Morcos fresher upon arrival at your destination. 32 tablets Gregory Caltabanis in each packet - sufficient for 45 hours flying time. Rohit Agarwal Contributors This Issue: Jessica Percy-Campbell www.nojetlag.com Daniel Smajovits Disclaimer: World Traveler has made every effort to NO-JET-LAG verify that the information provided in this publica- TM tion is as accurate as possible. However, we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconven- ience sustained by anyone resulting from the infor- mation contained herein nor for any information Tel.: 514-933-3302 - Fax : 514-933-8311 provided by our advertisers. Toll-free : 1-888-359-9355 - Email : gaelft@nojetlag.com

Crusing section 47 Destination Features Cuba 8 Golden, BC 12 Buenos Aires 14 Beautiful China Section 34 Winnipeg 44 Vimy Memorial, France 60 Cruise News Birding in Ontario 62 Cruising Cuba with Celestyal’s Crystal NYC Foodie 74 Fredericksburg, TX 76 I n a u g u r a l Vo y a g e s Cruising with Tully Luxury Travel Canada’s 150th Stay & Play - 64 Golden, BC 12 Winnipeg 44 Vimy Memorial 60 Birding in Ontario 62 Charlevoix Hotels 70 A ro u n d t h e Wo r l d 1 6 Around the World

8 Adventures in Holguin Province CUBA Article & Photography by Steve Gillick

9 C hristopher Columbus slept here! Holguin Province in Cuba’s south- east has three sites that claim to be the place where Admiral Christopher Columbus landed his three ships; the Nina, the Pinta and the Santa Maria. In Guardalavaca, there is a statue of Columbus by the ocean. In Gibara, tour guides tell the tale of the three ships being stranded in a storm and forced to settle in that area for a number of weeks. But in Cayo Bariay, archeological evidence combined with excerpts from Columbus’ diary about the beaches, the shape of the coastline and an Indian Village, all seem to have convinced historians that this was indeed the place where the expedition landed. see follwing page American World Traveler Summer 2017

And today at Cayo Bariay there are four dropped it and water and fish flowed out 10 sites that pay homage to the arrivals in the and covered the earth. The Taino people New World and their effects on the indige- were able to sustain themselves on the fish nous Taino people. The first is a recreation and seafood that lived in the waters, thanks of a Spanish fort from 1492 where two sol- to Yayael. (And when you think about it, diers would have lived and safeguarded travelers today also sustain themselves—in the area. The second site features a mon- Cuba—in the ocean waters and by relish- ument known as ‘Punta de Sabaneta’, or ing fresh seafood and fish!) ‘Encounter of Two Cultures’, that was built for the 500th anniversary of Columbus’ The last of the four sites at Cayo Bariya fea- landing in 1492. A reproduction of tures the actual place that Columbus land- European ruins in the shape of the prow of ed. There’s an archeological display and a a ship, symbolically heads toward a circle recreation of the village that Admiral of red earth-colored statues that embody Columbus found. A short skit depicts the the values and beliefs of the Taino and Taino’s reaction to the arrival of the Guanajatabeyes people, who lived in the Europeans and then, because this is a area for 10,000 years before Columbus’ tourism spot, a traditional dance with log arrival. The statues, reminiscent of the Moai drumming is performed, before samples of on Easter Island, represent community, Cuban rum are distributed and photos family, good luck, rain, sun, fire, bad luck, taken. It’s a fun and educational adventure fertility, tobacco and Yaya, the god of gods. that’s suitable for the family (except for the rum) and pays tribute to the indigenous A third site at Cayo Bairya lies under a people of Cuba. thatched roof at the edge of a cliff over- looking Holguin’s coast line of sandy But in Holguin there are many Eco-parks, beaches, rugged rocks, crashing waves National Parks and activities that ‘connect’ and smooth, calm, ‘bag’ bays (bays that the traveler with the destination. And of are shaped like an inflated bag with a nar- course what would any day in Cuba be like row opening and a wide deep lobe). without singers and guitarists? Columbus is noted for his declaration that the land that would become Cuba was “the At Eco-Park Rocazul, a short distance from most beautiful place human eyes have ever Playa Pesquera’s three beach resorts (Playa seen” and 525 years later this beauty has Pesquera, Playa Costa Verde, and Blau not diminished at all. Costa Verde), we were greeted with drinks the colour of the deep blue sky, made with Here under the thatched roof, there is a Curacao and Sprite, and then ushered over strange statue, and a man dressed in the to the porch of the family farm house to be loincloth and paint of one of the Taino peo- serenaded by the song ‘Chan Chan’, the ple explains its meaning. The circular unofficial (Buena Vista Social Club) anthem shape at the top of the statue is a ‘guira’ or of Cuba. Nearby a very large pig was gourd (the same type used to make mara- being roasted on a wooden spit for our cas), with irregular-shaped sticks that lunch. We were told that a pig this size appear to be falling from the gourd, repre- would feed upwards of 80 people and that senting fish. It’s a visual depiction of a during the 5 hour roasting process, a mari- myth that relates to Yaya, the god of gods nade of sour orange, garlic and ‘secret’ and his son Yayael. By the time Yayael spices was used to enhance the flavour. reached his teen years, he became rebel- lious and disrespectful toward this father. After a short Catamaran cruise on a bag In a fit of rage, Yaya killed his son and bay lined with mangroves, another musical placed his body inside a guira. But group greeted us, and once seated at the Yayael’s mother missed her son and want- restaurant, the musicians took song ed to see him again so she decided to pick requests (Commandante Che Guevara, up the guira and open it. By accident she Que Sas, Ceilito Lindo, and more) while

lunch was served: Fresh salad, traditional sparking below, and a million stars twin- rice and beans, grilled Yellow-tail Snapper, kling in the sky overhead. 11 Roast Pig, and juicy pineapple and papaya, along with a selection of Chilean Red and Music comes in all shapes and sizes in White wines as well as beer (Buccanero or Holguin Province, and many visitors find it Cristal are the popular choices). hard to walk to breakfast at their all-inclu- sive resort without hearing the songs of the The festive meal could only be outdone by Northern Mockingbird or the Red-legged an actual Festival and because this was Thrush, or the whistling of Grackles or the May 3, there happened to be one taking ominous overhead fly-past of Turkey place in Holguin City. Romarías de Mayo, Vultures. One morning after a rainfall, a or the Pilgrimages of May, is an annual lounge of Curly-tailed Lizards ran silently event celebrating the day in 1790 when the through the grasses and perched them- Franciscan Friar, Antonio Joseph Alegría, selves on a clump of rocks to dry off. ascended the steep hill in Holguin City, car- rying a large cross. He planted it on the But if you’re looking for more familiar ani- summit, as was the Spanish custom, in mals and birds, then Cayo Saetia is the order to protect the surrounding lands from place to go. A day excursion is offered by epidemics, witchcraft and natural disasters. some resorts, where after a 90-minute drive The hill became known as La Cruz Hillock to the town of Antilla, you board a and a tradition began for people to cele- Catamaran for the one-hour ride on the brate in the city and then climb the hill. smooth bag bay to the sandy beach at Cayo Saetia to enjoy swimming, snorkeling, On May 3, 2017 for example, the Festival horseback riding and jeep safaris. After a parade was under way when we arrived in fresh, tasty buffet lunch in the restaurant in the late afternoon. Crowds were huddled that featured yet another roasted pig, we under trees and umbrellas for shade on this hopped into one of the jeeps and set out for sunny, hot day, while others enjoyed the our adventure. scenery from roof tops and the balconies of nearby buildings. And the parade itself was As the jeep bounced along the red-earth a cavalcade of color, music, dancing, road we saw a large, fluffy ball of feathers, singing, costumes and flag waving, with supported by two skinny legs, in the shade Chinese Dragon dancing, baton twirlers, up ahead. It turned out to be an Ostrich (!) stilt walkers, horse carts festooned with (not exactly a bird endemic to Cuba). The flags and youth groups carrying jumbo- Ostrich gleefully ran toward the jeep, look- sized Cuban and Revolutionary flags. Every ing for a handout. Down the road we spot- few minutes the procession halted as enter- ted antelope and deer, a gang of buffalo, a tainers took to the main stage and wowed few horses and their foals, some zebra who spectators with bouncy Cha Cha and had been rolling in the red earth (what’s Samba rhythms and sing-a-long local folk white and black and red all over?), two songs. It was one smile after another. Jurassic-size Iguanas and a friendly red Macaw. It was another fun adventure. Following the Parade, many of the specta- tors headed to the base of La Cruz Hillock Holguin Province is in a lot of ways a micro- and climbed the 548 steps, some slowly, cosm of what visitors can expect when they such as the man balancing the full bottle of explore Cuba. The emphasis is on the peo- dark rum on his head as he ascended the ple, history and natural attractions, along hill (the bottle made it to the top, intact) and with the inescapable opportunity for relax- some energetically, such as the youth ation, adventure and fun, and even a bit of groups who bounded to the summit, carry- serendipity thrown in for good measure. ing the giant flags. And at the top of the hill there was more musical entertainment, www.visitcuba.ca enhanced by the lights of Holguin City American World Traveler Summer 2017

Fa l l i n L o v e w i t h G o l d e n , B C Article & Photography by Jennifer Merrick Celebrating Canada’s 150th

“ Think this is beautiful? Just wait till you get to the top,” said Emile Lavoie, a Sherbrooke, QC native who now makes his home in Golden. “It’s an infinity pool of mountains.” mountaineering. It was advertised as ’50 Switzerlands in one’, and the Canadian Pacific Railway even brought in Swiss guides to lead affluent Edwardians through the peaks. For the next few decades, located 60 kilometers east of Golden. There are over 400km of hiking trails within its boundaries, and natural highlights include Takakkaw Falls, one of the highest waterfalls in western Canada 13 Glacier House hosted many a guests, and Lake O’Hara, a jewel-blue lake that We were riding up the gondola at Kicking including one intrepid climber, Georgia has captured the imagination of genera- Horse Resort, up to a height of 7700 feet Engelhard. Despite public criticism, she tions of visitors. Emerald Lake is the largest on a blue-sky spring morning. When we wore men’s pants while climbing and Swiss of the park’s 61 lakes and lives up to its got off the ride, not even Emile’s descrip- guides joked about putting rocks in her name with a shimmering deep turquoise tion prepared us for the view that awaited. pack to keep up with her. One summer, she colour. We walked the Emerald Lake Peak after peak of snow-capped mountains summited no less than 24 peaks in the Circuit, which is an easy 5km loop, surrounded us in every direction, stretching Selkirk Mountains in just three weeks. although we did find it difficult not to stop out endlessly. It felt as though we had Modern-day tourists can pose with a metal every five minutes for yet another photo. stepped into a postcard of the heavens sculpture of her pants with the steep, Our next hike took us to Wapta Falls, which above. jagged peaks as a backdrop, and be at 490 feet wide is the largest on the inspired to do their own hikes. We enjoyed Kicking Horse River and also very photo- Mountains are what define the small town an easy walk on the Hemlock Grove Trail, genic. Be sure to empty your memory card of Golden, British Columbia, situated in the which showcases the interior rainforest before you go. Columbia Valley between the Rockies to the fauna, and explored some of the historical east and the Columbia Mountains to the remnants like railway pillars on the Loop Recharge in Golden west. There are no less than six national Brook Trail. parks within a two-hour drive: Banff, Every adventure in the surrounding moun- Jasper, Yoho, Kootenay, Glacier and Mount Paddle the Rivers tains and rivers deserves a reward, and Revelstoke. The town attracts a lot of folks there are plenty of establishments in town, like Emile, outdoor enthusiasts who come Golden is at the junction of the Kicking where you can digest your adventures as for a visit and never leave. Horse and Columbia rivers, both designat- well as good food and drink. Whitetooth ed BC Heritage Rivers and both offering an Brewing Company is a good place to I can relate. abundance of recreational activities. True begin. Opened recently, these craft brews adrenaline junkies can be helicoptered in inspired by Belgium-styled beers were an After a visit filled with hikes, wildlife sight- for a wild ride on the Kicking Horse River instant hit. Refreshing cocktails and deli- ings, friendly people and most of all, the through the lower canyon, famed for its cious food can be found at Eleven22, a ever-present mountains, it was hard to even long stretch of class four white water and local favourite. This renovated home with think about getting on a plane home. But vertical rock walls. This summer promises seating inside and outside has a casual before I left, I consoled myself by buying a to be one of the most exhilarating ever due atmosphere, and its locally-sourced origi- lottery ticket, planning to come back the to the large amount of snowfall. nal menu is spot on. To start the day, you next day if I won. can’t go wrong with Bluebird Café, a casu- A more peaceful but equally breathtaking al eatery with homemade breakfast and I would wager that if you visit, you’ll fall in paddling adventure is kayaking through lunch options and in-house bakery treats. love with the region, too. And while you’re the Columbia Wetlands. At over 180 kilo- Their packed lunches are ideal to take on there, try some of these Golden activities. meters in length, the protected tract of land your day’s adventures. is home to over 300 species of birds, fish Wear Georgia’s Pants at Glacier and other wildlife. Columbia Wetlands And there’s one more spot not to be missed National Park Adventures offers guided tours of this eco- – Eagle’s Eye Restaurant. Remember the logical treasure. One of the most magical infinity pool of mountains the gondola took Canada’s second largest park, Glacier, is moments of our Golden trip was paddling us up to at Kicking House Resort? It’s also located in the Selkirk range of the on water so still it reflected the mountains the location of Canada’s highest restaurant Columbia Mountains, 80 kilometres west of that surrounded us. and almost every seat has an awe-inspiring Golden. It’s home to the historic Rogers view. A perfect place to fall in love with the Pass, a route discovered in 1881 through Explore Yoho National Park mountains. the ‘impenetrable peaks’ that now connect our nation from coast to coast. A lesser- Yoho comes from a Cree word meaning www.tourismgolden.com known slice of history is the park’s role in ‘awe and wonder’, and there are plenty of the beginnings of alpine tourism and spots to do just that in this national park, American World Traveler Summer 2017

14 Best of Buenos Aires Views, Romance, and People-Watching View from Palacio Barolo: KaitlinM/iStock BEST VIEWS BIBLIOTECA NACIONAL BEST FOR ROMANCE Recline on a comfy chair on the fifth floor of PALACIO BAROLO the national library while surveying the STARGAZING Take the guided tour of this stunning palace northern section of the city. Housing the Wander around the docks of Puerto for a chance to survey the city skyline dur- largest library collection in Argentina, the Madero at night, where the moon reflects ing the day or at night. Once the tallest building took over 20 years to build and is off the water and lovers canoodle on building in South America, Palacio Barolo elevated by vast columns, giving it the benches. For an is a magnificent piece of architecture whose appearance of hovering over the surround- design was influenced by Dante’s Divine ing parks. JARDÍN BOTÁNICO Comedy. Find a shady bench among the wild plants ZIRKEL and cats that wander among the foliage in RESERVA ECOLÓGICA COSTANERA SUR Make sure to ask for a window seat at this this botanical garden. Five ornamental Look back at the city from this nature 21st-floor restaurant in the middle of greenhouses—one of which is in art nou- reserve to observe the dramatic contrast Centro. veau style, thought to be the only version of between nature and the towering skyscrap- its kind in the world—contain thousands of ers. It is a favorite place for residents, who SKY BAR plants. use the area for walking, jogging, and Watch the sunset from this 13th-floor night bird-watching. A number of guided tours spot while live jazz plays in the back- ROSEDAL are available, all of which are free! ground. Sky Bar is only open between This rose garden, with its 20,000 roses, a October and April if you want to enjoy the lake, fountains, pergolas, swans, wooden swanky surroundings. bridges, and busts of poets, provides an ideal location for meandering hand in PURO REMO hand. October through April is the best Head out into the Río de la Plata with this time to visit, when the explosion of color is outfitter to see the city from a boat. overwhelming, although there are species in bloom throughout the year. SOCCER STADIUMS The highest tier inside the stadium of the DINING AT LA CABRERA city’s most popular soccer teams, Boca Reserve an intimate table at this gourmet Juniors and River Plate, afford splendid parrilla and share one of their oversize Plaza de Mayo: tiagofernandezphotography/123rf views of the surrounding neighborhoods. melt-in-your-mouth steaks.

tree-filled Plaza San Martín draw a diverse WATCHING A TANGO SHOW mix of people. One of the largest green 15 While options are endless for watching tango dancers, Bar Sur is of the most inti- spaces in an area otherwise deprived of mate venues, while La Catedral is one of open land, Parque Centenario fills with the most unique and bohemian. La people over the weekend. Catedral is notable for the relaxed and information atmosphere, making it perfect SHOPPERS’ HAVEN for unsure foreigners and beginner The hardest part of people-watching in the dancers. Bar Sur transforms at night into a crowded shopping district of Once is find- cozy affair where dancers pass within inch- ing somewhere to sit down. Prepare to be es of the tables. amazed at the variety of purchases you’ll see tucked under people’s arms when you LISTENING TO MUSIC do find an unoccupied bench. Let the musicians at tiny Lo de Roberto charm you with their romantic laments. Adapted from Moon Buenos Aires by Nick Mills. Copyright © 2017. Available from PARQUE TRES DE FEBRERO Avalon Travel, an imprint of Perseus Books, Hire a tandem and roam this park on a LLC, a subsidiary of Hachette Book Group, sunny afternoon. Jules Charles Thays, a Inc. Puerto Madero: Saiko3p/Dreamstime.com French landscape architect born in Versaille during 1934, added lakes, curved paths, and bridges to the park. He dreamed of transforming Parque Tres de Febrero into the Buenos Aires version of Paris’s Bois de Boulogne. BEST PEOPLE-WATCHING THE CITY CENTER It’s the obvious choice: Plaza de Mayo is a gathering place for residents and is often the site of political protests. It’s also a good starting point to explore the historic city center, with its cobbled streets and crum- bling houses sitting alongside sweeping avenues and glass skyscrapers. IN A SQUARE Sit at one of the tables in Plaza Dorrego on any day but Sunday (when the popular Feria de San Pedro Telmo makes it imprac- tical) and you’re sure to pass hours watch- ing the passersby. AMONG THE ROSES With the sheer quantity of people around the lake in Parque Tres de Febrero’s Rosedal over the weekend, almost any- where will do, but setting up near the Greek Bridge will ensure you see an end- less stream of people taking photos on the peculiar structure. CAFÉ WITH A VIEW There are few café patios that provide such an ideal spot for people-watching as La Biela, where lavishly dressed women sweep down the adjoining avenue alongside wan- dering musicians and artisans selling homemade bread. GREEN SPACES During the day, the shaded benches in the American World Traveler Summer 2017

16 A r o u n d T h e Wo r l d (in 18 pages) Hong Kong’s “Old Town Central” Grape Harvest Festivals Across Spain is a Living Museum of Heritage, Arts, Culture & Cuisine September and October mark the arrival of autumn and also the Central is full of history and stories, and is the birthplace of colonial Hong Kong. It period when grapes are picked. Every year, the harvest signals the reflects the evolution of Hong Kong from a sleepy British colony to one of the end of the grape-growing season and after the work is done, it's world’s great cities. Central is well-known as a glitzy financial district, jam-packed time to celebrate the good crop in style. The grape harvest festi- with skyscrapers, but beneath the stunning skyline, history, art, food and culture vals that are held in many places in Spain offer a sample of what take hold in this once colonial neighborhood, where East and West, past and pres- the world of wine is like and of its typical popular customs. You ent, tradition and innovation, and bustle and tranquility coexist, blend and collide. are sure to have a memorable time during these festivities because the mood of merriment that prevails is contagious. You To provide visitors with a unique perspective when exploring Central and neigh- will also have the chance to see first-hand some of the tasks bouring Sheung Wan area, five themed walking routes have been thoughtfully involved in the winemaking process. designed to reveal over 100 years of Hong Kong history. The routes take visitors to colonial monuments, temples, art galleries, street art display, antique stores, hip These naturally include the traditional treading of the grapes and boutiques, trending restaurants, and bars and local delicacies, with hidden gems the tasting of the first must. Wine-related events are often organ- at every turn. ised as well such as tasting sessions, al fresco meals or open days at wineries. The programme usually includes other activities of a Five “Old Town Central” Walking Routes: cultural nature, such as competitions, folk dances, parades or theatrical productions. The Rioja Grape Harvest Festivals and the 1. Heritage: Time Traveller The Central and Sheung Wan areas were where the Autumn Festivals are among the most famous ones; however, vis- story of modern Hong Kong began. From Possession Point, where the British flag itors will find that these celebrations are held in many locations in was first officially raised, to the Tai Ping Shan area, where many Chinese first set- each of Spain's winemaking areas. tled in the 1840s, this journey leads you through some of the city’s oldest streets and offers glimpses of what life was like when the future world city was still in its Autumn in Spain brings the opportunity to enjoy this country's infancy. wine culture in an easy and fun way and surely not to be missed. 2. Art: Crazy for Art Take a stroll down the Hollywood Road, one of the oldest www.spain.info streets in Hong Kong, lined with galleries offering a huge range of artworks, from ancient to contemporary and from Asian to Western. Enjoy the creative graffiti art on the walls of the many side alleys leading off the street. China Tourism Introduces New Brand Logo 3. Dining: Tasting Hong Kong Central is a paradise for food lovers, offering a China National Tourism Administration (CNTA) has made world of choices only steps from each other. From traditional dim sum and inter- national and fusion cuisine to local dai pai dongs and street food, there’s some- “Beautiful China” the tag line of its tourism and introduced a thing to appeal to every taste. new global brand logo. With an overall look as a stamp, the 4. Treasure Hunt: Hidden Gems in Back Alleys This route takes you to Upper new logo integrates modern messaging with the ancient Lascar Row, which has a fascinating mix of antiques; a blooming creative neigh- Chinese art form of calligraphy. The hieroglyph in the back- borhood on Tai Ping Shan Street and in the PoHo area, where design studios are nestled between teahouses; and the Bridges Street area, where visitors can find ground means “travel” in ancient Chinese language, which shows a flag guiding a couple around. second-hand books, knickknacks and reminders of the city’s past. The blue color represents the sky, delivering China tourism’s concepts - vitality, harmony and 5. Something for Everyone This walk covers the top landmarks and points of inter- green travel. The red color gives tribute to the Chinese civilization that has been going on for ests from each thematic route and is perfect for visitors who have limited time to thousands of years. Illustrating an international vision, the “Beautiful China” logo represents explore the area. China’s promising and welcoming tourism industry. www.discoverhongkong.com American World Traveler Summer 2017

18 Good to Go! Great Travel Gear and Gadgets We’ve asked our globetrotting contributors what they must have when on the go; here are a few of their suggestions… American World Traveler Summer 2017

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travellers a unique experience. The G Adventures Adds Five New Social Enterprise Projects to its Tours two-hour ride embraces the island’s 21 motto of ‘go slow’ and highlights the area’s idyllic nature, history, and culture. El Hongo Community Restaurant - Playa del Carmen, Mexico - Playa del Carmen has become built-up by mass tourism and this project takes travellers to Photos this page: G Adventures see ‘the other side’ with a home-style meal at volunteer-run restaurant El Hongo. G Adventures groups enjoy a meal at the restaurant and tour the neighbourhood, learning about the vivid street art the kids created with support from this social enter- prise. Unbutu Training Cafe - Maai Mahiu, Kenya - This training café empowers com- munities and creates jobs along the only route to the Maasai Mara. Travellers enjoy a delicious lunch sourced from local organic New meal, wheel, and homestay experiences that give back in 2017 farms. The café also provides a market for marginalised women to learn to make, and sell handicrafts as meaningful souvenirs. Proceeds from the businesses help support L eading small-group adventure oper- ator G Adventures announces new sustainable travel experiences in Belize, Indonesia, Kenya, Mexico, and Nepal for 2017, empowering travellers to support we can do a world of good. Our new proj- ects are examples of the sharing economy our world needs, and the sharing economy I want to see thrive. the nearby Ubuntu School, which serves children with special needs by providing therapy, education, and vocational training. local communities while offering them a truly “The United Nations has designated 2017 Barauli Community Homestay - local experience. as its Year of Sustainable Tourism for Chitwan National Park, Nepal - G Development, and with increased aware- Adventures travellers visit the Barauli The five new social enterprise projects ness I believe tourism can be the biggest Community Homestay while they are in the include a guided bike tour on Caye Caulker, form of wealth distribution the world has Chitwan region, learning about the tradi- Belize, local meals at restaurants in Playa del seen,” says Poon Tip. tions of the Tharu people. Over 1,500 trav- Carmen, Mexico and Nakuru, Kenya, and ellers visit this region annually, bringing sus- homestays near Chitwan National Park in The five new experiences join G tainable tourism revenue for the community. Nepal, and inside Bromo-Tengger-Semeru Adventures’ list of 31 projects around the The homestay project aims to diversify the National Park in Java, Indonesia. world and are part of its commitment to income of women in the region. launch 50 new projects by 2020 – 10 per The initiatives, known as G Adventures for year – also known as its “50 in 5” cam- Tengger Community Homestay - Java, Good projects, aim to support women, paign. More details on the projects and Indonesia - G Adventures travellers to stay indigenous communities and at-risk youth, how travellers can experience them follow: in a traditional home inside Bromo-Tengger- while offering travellers immersive experi- Semeru National Park and enjoy day trips as ences in culturally unique parts of the world. Bike with Purpose - Caye Caulker, part of a community developed hike. The Belize - On Caye Caulker, children often new homestays will be fully owned and G Adventures’ founder, Bruce Poon Tip drop out from school by age 12. G managed by the Tengger tribe and allow for believes travel and tourism can be a force for Adventures sends 4,000 travellers a year to older residents to diversify their income, good in developing nations where tourism is the island, and by taking a Bike with while creating jobs for the next generation. one of the most important means of income. Purpose tour, travellers give students from Select tours that will empower travellers to the Ocean Academy (the island’s only contribute to this community’s well-being. “When we travel the right way, with like- community high school) the opportunity to minded people who care about making a practice their guiding skills while offering www.gadventures.com positive impact on the places they travel to, American World Traveler Summer 2017

22 What’s Trending in Melbourne: Eating Vegan Article & Photography by Jessica Percy-Campbell Dessert at Girls & Boys G orgeous weather, high-end coffee “eggs” made from coconut, turmeric and dishes such as “sausage” empanadas and culture and innovative culinary sweet potato. They taste a little sweeter, but “seafood” stew. trends are just a few reasons why look just like the real thing, runny yellow Melbourne has been named one of the yolk and all. For those who love to indulge, Down the block there’s Vegie Bar for tacos, world’s most livable cities. With an influx of this café serves Mr. and Mrs. Banks cruffins, burritos, and gourmet pizza; and Girls & veggie-friendly restaurants popping up a hybrid between a croissant and a muffin Boys for dessert, with dairy-free gelato, sor- everywhere you look, creative vegan cui- stuffed with hazelnut chocolate filling. bet, soft-serve, doughnuts and pumpkin sine is what’s hot in Melbourne right now. pie. All vegan and all without the use of To prove it, Melbourne’s Big Vegan Market Richmond’s Serotonin takes a holistic refined sugar, this little sweet shop caters to was a massive success this year, with over approach to healthy living and thematical- nut allergies and gluten intolerance as well. 10,000 guests and 150 vendors displaying ly revolves its menu around the concept of a wide range of plant-based items includ- happiness itself. Melbourne takes coffee Taking the reigns as a world-class destina- ing skincare products, organic clothing, very seriously, but here, the cappuccinos tion for Instagram-worthy cuisine, the sheer home décor, speciality meals and desserts. are served with smiling faces drawn into number of extraordinary choices is reason the foam. Like every other dish on the enough for anyone to visit Melbourne. For Melbourne Café Culture menu, the frozen Galaxy Acai Bowl incor- an optimal snowbird vacation, travel to porates all colors of the rainbow. Sit in a Australia in their summer months of One fabulous tourist destination is St. swing by the window surrounded by green- December – February and explore as many Kilda, and not only for its wild penguins, ery, or take a picnic basket out into the park cafes as possible. kite surfers, and sunset views along the across the road and enjoy the sunshine. pier, but also for brunch! Brunch is all the For more info on Melbourne: rage in Melbourne, and with so many Fitzroy is for Foodies www.visitvictoria.com locally owned cafes, each one brings something unique to the table. Matcha At the heart of the vegan community is For more vegan-friendly spots around the Mylk Bar offers plant-based poached Fitzroy, a fashionable inner suburb not far world: from the Central Business District (CBD). An www.veganvacationista.com extremely popular take-away lunch spot is Smith and Deli. Picture the Aussie version of New York style sandwiches filled with a huge variety of deli “meats”, “cheeses”, and “eggs” on freshly baked sourdough. Around the corner is their sister location Smith and Daughters, a self-proclaimed “vegan bar and eatery with a rock and roll vibe” specializing in traditional Spanish American World Traveler Summer 2017

enthralling panorama will leave you astounded. You will be under the spell of 10 Reasons to Experience the Leh-Ladakh this place’s beauty long after the trip has ended. trail as a Motorcycle road trip 6. To Collect Unrivalled Travel Tales As you cross through one destination after another, you will gather experiences and stories to last you a lifetime. The amicable locals, the sumptuous food, the friends you make along the way, the challenges you overcome on the road trip and the enchanting sights will leave you with inex- haustible pictures and tales. Pangong lake, Photo by Jeevan, CC0 1.0 7. To Indulge in Some Soul-Searching There is no better way to spend some time away from the clamour of the cities and reflect back on your life than a road trip to this tranquil place. It is ideal for a solo bike trip to give yourself that much needed break, away from the mad rush of life. 8. An Insight into the Local Essence I t is a dream come true to finally be able beloved bike or renting one, this road trip There is a certain amount of immediacy to witness the immense beauty and is a part of every rover’s dream. The cool and familiarity a world traveller develops splendour of Ladakh. This unimagin- breeze, the endless roads, and the sight- with a place when one travels towards or ably picturesque and idyllic land has been seeing through different states make this an through it. You get to comprehend and captured in movies, travel stories on social unforgettable and incomparable trip on a appreciate the local culture, local cuisine media pages, and written about in almost bike. The best time to visit Ladakh is from and the kindness of the local people you every travel magazine out there. If there is April to June. meet along your way. This road trip is something more breathtaking than this going to give you a unique perspective to place, it can only be the journey to this 3. The Adventure and Exhilaration the way of life in this land of cold desert. abode of peace, especially if it is a road trip on a bike! A ride through this terrain is Is there anything better than an adventure- 9. Unexplored Territories nothing like you have ever experienced or filled trip that leads to an extraordinary cli- seen before. Here are just a handful of rea- max for someone who loves bikes and has Biking in India means stopping by any sons why every true adventurer and travel- been bitten by the travel bug too? Well, for place you find interesting and beguiling er must embark on this unique expedition. all those thrill-seekers, this road trip has enough. You will have visited and experi- been custom-made for you. You will cross a enced more places than just the regular 1. The Inexplicably Stunning Routes plethora of mind-blowing locales and tourist haunts. tough corridors before landing into the The journey usually starts from the national serene land of your dreams. 10. One of the Most Exciting Getaways capital of the country, Delhi, and crosses various states and cities before leading to 4. Pleasing Plains to Captivating Valleys To be able to navigate through the chal- the final destination. The voyage through lenging routes, to survive the road journey long stretches of green fields, far away The landscapes will keep changing from on a bike, and to be able to immerse your- from the hustle and bustle, will leave you avenues with vast meadows to thick forests self in the milieus and culture of the place, refreshed and reinvigorated for the ride and from plains to mesmerising valleys. makes this one of the most interesting and ahead. Filled with abundant scenic views Throughout your journey, before reaching coveted road trips in the world. that make the trip worthwhile, there was Leh and while passing through Ladakh, not even one moment of boredom or dis- and on your journey back home, you will Pack that rucksack, get your bike ready, appointment, as every mile you cross com- be left speechless by the ever changing and start your journey to Leh- Ladakh. It is petes with the last in impressiveness. backdrops. an experience that shouldn’t be missed or delayed at any cost. 2. A Road Trip of a Lifetime 5. The Ride Across the “Land of High Passes” Author Bio: You might have taken some amazing road A keen traveler and adventure enthusiast, read trips before, but this one is sure to beat When you actually reach Ladakh and ride more about Rohit’s travel journeys in his blog nearly all of the others. This one makes it through the sights there, the journey takes Trans India Travels. onto every wanderer’s bucket list and every an altogether different turn. The striking biker’s wish list. Whether taking your colours, beautiful monasteries and the American World Traveler Summer 2017

northern suburbs, leaving vacancy for 26 squatters to move in to buildings and dan- gerous conditions. With all of this in consid- eration, it may seem like a high stakes bet for property developer Jonathan Liebmann to have the vision to convert this ghost town into a bustling artistic community. With his company, Propertuity, Liebmann sought to attract artists and professionals back to the precinct, drawing parallels between derelict industrial spaces to those in other gentrified cities such as Williamsburg, Brooklyn, for example, where chic boutiques and art galleries now The Urban Renaissance of Johannesburg occupy disused warehouses. Speaking of warehouses, the nucleus of this buzzing Article & Photography by Olivia Balsinger urban destination is Arts on Main, operat- ing out of a bonded warehouse dates back to 1911, and expands four blocks in diam- A fter about two decades of consider- Its comprehensive program delves into the eter. Shops, galleries, vendors, and restau- able setbacks in it economy and catalysts and consequences of this dark era, rants line the white-wash, high-ceilinged socio-politics, Johannesburg, the emitting a beacon of hope by illustrating its interior. Meanwhile, messages and testa- capital of South Africa, has been experienc- gradual ascent to liberation -- a modern ments to Maboneng’s new identity are liter- ing a rapid progress akin to a new age example of triumph in the arena of human ally written on the walls, which is splayed urban renaissance. This rebirth is the result rights. For a more curated experience on with graffiti of lines such as “Love your of its post-apartheid initiatives, focused on the liberation movement, tourists are also work,’ adjacent to images executed by forming a new and loquacious unity among enjoined to visit the Mandela Museum, some of the cities most talented new resi- all of its people, leading to developments in which was converted from the house where dents. In order to attract more artists, the its urban planning, economic structure, Mandela’s family lived from 1946 to 1962. precinct offers discounted studios and artistic scene, and its proactive measures to Perhaps the most emotive excursion for his- apartments to up-and-coming creatives, promote tourism. tory buffs, however is Constitution Hill, with the most renowned being the multi- where once the Old Fort Prison Complex media giant William Kentridge. Its success cannot be understated, and it stood, which housed revolutionary heroes, has assumed the role as the heart of the such as Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi, Propertuity has truly given new meaning to South African nation. A visit to when they were incarcerated. Maboneng, which itself is translated to Johannesburg is an eclectic experience, as “Place of Light.” It has indeed brought it out it offers the chance to discover its vast and The city’s rich history echoes with numinous of the shadows of a darker era to shine with varied culture. You will learn about its con- vibrations, which have over the years moti- the potential to change the future of the city, troversial past, celebrate its inspiring transi- vated a movement that seeks to replace the country, and the world by becoming the tion and relish experiencing its new identity air of a repressed past with an open an headquarters for artistic expression and dis- as a rather chic and progressive urban hub. honest art scene. Looking to the world’s course. When you visit this truly incredible more metropolitan cities like as Berlin, New neighborhood, be sure to stay in the bou- The key to Johannesburg's impressive York, and Paris as models of thriving urban tique hotel Hallmark House, which is owned progress is perhaps its hyper awareness to hubs, Johannesburg has found its own and developed by Propertuity. A landmark illuminate its past. The approach itself is voice in reimagining its cultural landscape of a new chapter in African architecture, rather optimistic, highlighting the heroes of by implementing conscious and focused The Hallmark Hotel is a luxurious, curated apartheid, without detracting from the real- redevelopment of its inner city neighbor- living spaces (penthouses, apartments, and ities of its heinousness. The best place to get hoods. This reinvigoration of Newtown and hotel rooms) for visitors and permanent res- an overview is the renowned Apartheid Braamfontein, for example, has been idents alike. It captures the constantly ele- Museum, which condenses the narrative to extremely successful in cultivating a hip and vating ambiance of Maboneng main streets its core timeline from its veritable begin- thriving artistic climate, becoming home to to an indoor venue, converting an intangi- nings in 1948 to its triumphant end in some of the world’s most famous street art, ble culture into veritable lifestyle, where art 1994, when Nelson Mandela was elected such as The Shadow Boxer. and progressive thinking pervades. president of the republic. Of particular note in transitioning the con- crete jungle of Johannesburg’s inner city precincts is the neighborhood of Maboneng. Like the rest of the precincts in the inner city, Maboneng was once a no-go area. It in fact was plagued with particular danger at the end of apartheid in 1994, due to the uncertainty and anxiety that the transition would inevitably incur: It faced crime waves as businesses relocated to the American World Traveler Summer 2017

While you are undergoing recovery or wait- Tu r k e y ing for the procedure, patients can visit anywhere they wish in Turkey. Imagine fly- ing into Istanbul and visiting the open-air, Roman-era Hippodrome or the Egyptian obelisks while waiting for Cardiovascular surgery. Driving around Turkey’s cosmo- politan capital Ankara, sightseeing the opera house and going up to the lookout in Anitkabir, the enormous hilltop mausoleum of Kemal Atatürk while awaiting state-of the art cancer treatments (Medical & Surgical and Radiation including Gammaknife and Cyberknife technology) Breaking the mold, Turkey’s state-of-the-art medical technology and infrastructure, top quality services, competitive prices, easy access to medical services and central geo- graphical location make it the destination of choice for people who need top notch Your Partner in Healthcare medical services at an affordable price. Come for the surgery and stay for the sites! Good health is your most valuable asset T ourism takes many forms, from the youthful backpacker in Germany to and deserves the very best treatment, and the sophisticated sightseer in Paris Turkey offers that from start to finish. They to family vacationers in Disney. Turkey has offer the best airline in Europe (according become a leader in another category: to the 2016 Skytrax survey, Turkish Airlines Health Tourism! was chosen as "Europe's Best Airline" for a sixth and "Best Airline in Southern Europe" Health tourism as a concept was intro- for the eighth consecutive time) and Turkish duced to the Turkish healthcare sector in Airlines is one of the fastest growing air- the early 2000s. Turkey began welcoming lines in the world, flying to over 120 coun- international patients thanks to its strong tries and 299 international destinations, political and economic structure, geo- which is more countries and destinations graphical position, medical expertise and than any other airline. the highly developed healthcare system. Besides the cutting-edge technology, glob- The Turkish Health Transformation Plan ally experienced physicians and state of the (HTP) was implemented by the Ministry of art infrastructure, private hospitals in Turkey Health between 2003 – 2013, aiming to saw the need to develop a process that increase the quality and access to health- works for international patients. The institu- care in Turkey. As a result, it has boosted tions that play a major role in the health- domestic demand, added state-of-the-art- tourism industry now have high quality staff medical technology and offering high- that includes patient care coordinators quality treatments at reasonable prices. speaking more than 15 languages to assist Turkey’s private healthcare sector has been patients through their medical journey in marketing its advantages to foreign their native language! patients and within the last decade, the health tourism sector has been increased Turkish international health services are gradually and the global revenue has now now a collection of services including non- garnered over $100 billion. medical issues like providing concierge services, transportation, translation of med- The Turkish private clinics are host to a wide ical documents, travel assistance, visas and range of international patients from every accommodation. corner of the world. On a yearly basis, close to 300,000 international patients There are many factors when choosing chose to get their medical treatment in Turkey as a destination for health tourism Turkey, the majority of whom come from and not just for their low-cost treatment but Germany, Libya, Russia, Iraq, the also their high standards of quality in med- Netherlands, Azerbaijan and the UK, ben- ical services, staff expertise, technical efit from the high quality and affordable equipment, global accreditations. Oh, and healthcare treatments available in Turkey. being a great place for tourist attractions is also a major supporting factor! American World Traveler Summer 2017

30 Experience the Seasonal Allure of Au t u m n , Wi n t e r a n d S p r i n g i n E u r o p e w i t h Tr a f a l g a r S avouring spiced gingerbread at tra- ditional Christmas Markets, admir- ing majestic alpine peaks, and fol- lowing the tempting aromas of warm gluh- wein; fall, winter and spring in Europe are guided vacation to include authentic expe- riences and moments of magic to ensure our guests’ enjoyment.” Trafalgar’s Delights of London and Paris style, where travellers will have the oppor- tunity to watch these Russian cities trans- form for the Christmas season. Guests will be steeped in Christmas spirit during Moscow’s magical ‘Journey into Christmas’ a treasure trove for all the senses. trip is a guest favourite, so this new 9-day festival, complete with ice rinks, snow Trafalgar’s new 2017-18 Autumn Winter & guided vacation has been introduced into sculptures and light installations before Spring program showcases 34 guided this year’s seasonal offering, allowing trav- they delve into the history books in St vacation itineraries to 26 European coun- ellers to explore these beautiful cities in a Petersburg. tries, including two new trips - Delights of whole new way. High streets and laneways London and Paris and Festive St Petersburg in London and Paris dressed in fall colours, In addition to two new itineraries, Trafalgar and Moscow. bustling Parisian farmers’ markets brim- has made its 15-day tailored European ming with seasonal specialities, and White Christmas Delights & New Year “There really is no better place in the world London’s parks glistening with frost. Lights trip available to travellers for the first to experience different seasons than Travellers will enjoy excursions to Bath and time ever. Guests will discover the secrets of Europe, and we’ve made it easy for trav- Stonehenge and a visit to the Palace of champagne production, experience a white ellers to discover the festive flavours and Versailles with a Local Specialist. Christmas in St Moritz and ring in the New allure of some of our favourite destinations Year over regional food and wine in from November 2017 to April 2018, says Another new introduction to this year’s pro- Tuscany. Wolf Paunic, president of Trafalgar gram is the new 7-day Festive St Petersburg Canada. “We’ve carefully crafted each and Moscow Christmas Spectacular travel www.trafalgar.com American World Traveler Summer 2017

32 Tr o p i c a l Ti d b i t s by Sue C Travel Off-Radar & Fabulous Florida Fun coaster bikes along the beach. Enjoy the downtown Jacksonville as they have excit- friendly surf and a full calendar of beach- ing plans for restoration of many aban- It’s summertime and a great season for a front music festivals all summer long. We doned historic landmark buildings into cos- road trip throughout Florida. I’ve sleuthed had planned to stay at the spiffy new One mopolitan entertainment centers. Take a out some new and very cool and off-radar Ocean Resort & Spa- but it was full- so we stroll through the business section with things to do in the Sunshine State for this opted for Casa Marina Hotel-a historic AdLibber Walking Tours to see the offbeat edition of Tropical Tidbits… so let’s go! Spanish colonial style complex with an new outdoor art murals and sculptures, inviting beachfront courtyard and a great and sate your sweet tooth with a factory Jacksonville is Jumping! rooftop bar. They have also developed the tour and sampling at Sweet Pete’s gourmet Jax Ale Trail- a tour of no less than 15 craft chocolate and candy store. Lunch at their “JaxBeach” is what the locals call the trendy breweries in the area- we only made it to Candy Apple Café also offers up both new surfside community, and it’s chock full one, Green Room Brewing, but it didn’t dis- sweet and savory delights. Another trendy of brand new avant garde eateries like appoint. (Ask about their “passport pro- new restaurant worth a stop just outside of TacoLu for gourmet tacos, and scads of lit- gram” for the brewpubs.) downtown is Moxie Kitchen for a twist on tle strip malls full of shops and bars cater- American comfort food. And for the latest ing to the masses of young visitors riding The new vibe has also begun seeping into in modern golf practice head to the new

drink the water and see if it works!) There’s also one of the best pirate museums in the 33 country, and their spooky Ghosts and Gravestones night tour is one of the best I’ve ever taken. ( Are you ready to get locked in an ancient jail?) Other spirits well worth seeking out are in the liquid form like the ones at The St. Augustine Distillery – take a guided tour and sample their wares, and also seek out offbeat bars like Odd Bike riding on Anastasia State Park Beach St. Augustine, Image provided by FloridasHistoricCoast.com Birds for killer craft cocktails. Foodies will adore the many cool cafes and eclectic cuisine at romantic hideaways like Raintree Restaurant, and an ideal way to sample many of them is via Savory Fare Food Tour City Walks. Outside of the down- town grid, you will need a car to explore St. Augustine Beach, and Anastasia State Park -a protected wildlife sanctuary, and a trip to the historic lighthouse and museum on Anastasia Island are all well worth the drive. Melbourne Metamorphosis Cocoa Beach & Space Coast Stars After Cocoa Beach, head to Melbourne’s Brevard Zoo for some unique kayaking If you have a need for speed, drop into the adventures with the animals. Glide by the famous Daytona International Speedway giraffes, gazelles, rhinos, and lemurs and see the progress on their new mega- cavorting in their open installations. Very village across the road, which will be a cool! And the only zoo in the US to have small resort community in its own right. kayaking within. Then, lunch at legendary Take a tour of the famous track and visit the The Mansion-choose their top deck for museum full of vintage cars, too. While in marina views. To tour the main downtown the area, drive on to Titusville for a rare area in a unique way, hop aboard a fun lunch of rock shrimp- they are famous for tour with TOTO Pedicabs. ( Their drivers do them at Dixie Crossroads Seafood all the pedaling!) You’ll soon see how the Restaurant. once sleepy little town is beginning to morph into an uber trendy outpost. Old multi-level TopGolf high-tech driving range Next check into Doubletree by Hilton on gas stations and post offices have turned and entertainment center. Cocoa Beach – it’s ocean front and handy into crazy bars, and gourmet candy shops to some great casual pier dining like and trendy cafes have all moved in. And Fishlips Waterfront Grill and Westgate Awesome St. Augustine don’t miss Hell N Blazes Brewery- an excel- Cocoa Beach Pier. It’s also a great base for lent local brewpub with a games room and The oldest city in America is certainly worth everything space related- plan an entire fab beer. Also of note in town is the charm- a few days exploration and easy to do on day to visit the Kennedy Space Centre- ing lemon yellow house surrounded by a foot if you stay at the brand new Collector’s there’s a LOT to see and do, and reserve white picket fence where Jim Morrison of Inn (see Page 69 in our ‘Stay & Play’ sec- lunch with a real astronaut as an exciting The Doors grew up before he decided to tion) a gorgeous little boutique luxury oasis side dish. And for a unique outing to the “break on through to the other side” of the right in the heart of the old quarter. Not to official launch sites, take a guided bus tour country to study film at UCLA. be missed is a guided tour through the epic of Cape Canaveral within the restricted 17th century Spanish fort Castillo de San military base- bring your passport and www.VisitFlorida.com Marcos for fascinating history and a trek to photo ID- and wear closed-toe shoes if you the famed Ponce de Leon’s Fountain of also want to climb the historic lighthouse Youth Archeological Park. (You can even on site. American World Traveler Summer 2017

Beautiful China Silk Road Sites & Sounds For thousands of years, silk has been a commodity that has connected China with the far-reaching parts of the world. Whether through traders, sellers or diplomats, the sale of silk is part and parcel of Chinese cultural and social heritage. Now on the World Heritage List of UNESCO, many historical sites along the road offer the World Traveler a taste of various provinces in this amazing land. We start our journey in Jiangsu. As always, there is too much to see and do when you are visiting somewhere, but this trip was all about the Silk Road, so we con- centrated on learning more. Edited by David J. Cox Gansu Province, China

35 T Jiangsu Other treasures include the Terracotta his coastal province is part of the warriors of Xuzhou, who are actually just Silk Road marine route and has one part of a huge museum complex. been long known for its prosperity Visitors can get great pictures of most of and opulence, and with sights like the the warriors and are introduced to the linked network of pools, pagodas and restoration process. It is a large museum, pavilions at the Humble Administrator’s many tours and cruises available for view- and includes a large excavated tomb, a Garden, the Lion Grove Garden’s tall, ing the incredible features in this province. "Liu Ancestral Hall" that pays tribute to the rocky maze, and the World Heritage listed Jiangsu is also the best place to see the Liu clan (including Liu Bang, the founder Chinese classical gardens of Suzhou, it is unique living water villages of the Yangtze of the Han Dynasty), and some Buddhist easy to see why! River delta! So many of the most famous temples. tourist locales can are found here. As with most destinations, there is far too Nanjing is also a must see, as it is not much to do and see. For fans of meditation and meditative only the capital of Jiangsu Province and spaces there is the Confucius Temple in capital to 6 Chinese Dynasties, but is also Jiangsu is one of the most beautiful tourist Nanjing, consecrated to the famous capital of the Republic of China! Surprises destinations located on a stretch of the philosopher and educator of ancient abound at the Presidential palace, as this Yellow Sea on China’s east coast. Old China. Over the years, it has undergone complex of buildings is an amazing mix of China and new come together to offer a many changes and expanded into a com- architectural styles from it's long history, great trip to visitors. After exploring the plex that now contains the Confucius and the audio tour is well worth it. The ancient walls and tombs from the Ming Temple, the China Imperial Examination grounds are a wonderful and are an ideal Dynasty era, you can treat yourself to Museum and the Xue Gong - the impres- place to walk around and enjoy, especially some Huaiyang cuisine, considered one of sive Imperial Academy. when the gardens are in bloom. The the Four Great Traditions of the culinary Nanjing City Museum hosts historical exhi- heritage of China, along with Cantonese bitions inside the grounds of an imperial cuisine, Shandong cuisine and Sichuan examination center where you can visit cuisine. exhibitions of jewellery and silken clothing from many different dynasties. A sight to behold is China’s ancient engi- neering Wonder of the World, the Grand Other prefectures of the province offer Canal, which is the world’s longest canal other diversions, such as Nantong and its and is still a vital and well used waterway major river port near Shanghai, the indus- that stretches almost 2,000 km between trial mecca of Wuxi and Zhenjiang, anoth- Hangzhou and Beijing. The mighty er major tourist attraction for its temples Yangtze River flows here as well, with and museums! American World Traveler Summer 2017

36 A Zhejiang the resting-on-water towns Wuzhen and province that has seen six dynas- Xitang are as fascinating as they are inter- ties, Zhejiang offers hour after esting. In Wuzhen, most tourists often pre- hour of delightful visitor sights fer to visit Dongzha, a sector that main- and sounds. Starting in Hangzhou, tains the basic original layout of the town, Zhejiang’s capital and the former capital and Xizha, which reproduces the ancient of China, travellers will see that this city is boo nursery, recognised worldwide as appearance of a old fashioned water China's busiest destination for domestic having the widest variety of bamboo. town! tourism and is renown for tea, silk and its Great West Lake. Moving on to Jiaxing, where the food will The city of Yiwu is a perfect example of satisfy all tastes and the engineering will how the Silk Road has brought together Whether on a cruise or on foot, West knock your socks off! Fresh fish and rice cultures, as it is a city vibrant with Middle Lake, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a are staples that are turned into magical Eastern flavour due to a large Islamic perfect place to spend a day. This part dishes to satisfy all tastes. The marvels of business community. Yiwu also has a large natural and part man made lake offers Korean population and a huge Christian photo ops and amazing views, and the Church. Fun fact - Yiwu is also known as tales, stories and legends about it make a "sock town”, as it produces over three bil- visit to the lake even more interesting. lion pairs of socks annually. For history Other areas to visit include one of the buffs, the Guyue Bridge, a stone arch most renowned Buddhist temples in bridge built in 1213, is one of the few China, the Lingyin Temple, where visitors bridges of that era still standing. can admire fascinating and intricate Buddhist carvings. Enjoy the sunset at the Ningbo city has a 7000-year long history, Dragon Well Tea Plantation, where history and it served as one of the starting points and flavour combine as you can drink tea of the Marine Silk Road along with in a shaded pavilion offering spectacular Guangzhou during the Tang Dynasty views. (618-907). Aside from the old temples and buildings, Ningbo has the Xikou- In the fascinating historic district of Anji, Xuedoushan Scenic Area, a beautiful sce- Huzhou there are very advanced ecologi- nic area renown for its historical links and cal ideals and industries. This ecological beautiful scenery filled with lakes and philosophy covers tourism and the bam- mountains. The area is most renowned for boo industry. Anji responsibly produces 12 its ancient cultural atmosphere. million commercial bamboo poles every year, and also has China's largest bam- American World Traveler Summer 2017

37 S Shandong was said that there were nine palaces, handong is considered a birth- eight Temples and seventy-two nunneries place of China's pottery, porcelain on the mountain! Many have fallen into and silk industries. A part of the ruin, but of those that remain, the Taiqing Silk Road, it is subdivided into Lowland Palace is the largest. It also has the has Shandong, the river-filled area in the west the longest history, spanning more than of the province, Highland Shandong pines and cypresses will invite visitors to two thousand years and has been well which is the hilly central region and walk and breath in the clean, forest air. preserved, which is rare for its form of Coastal Shandong in the east where the Mt. Laoshan is a sacred place for Taoists architecture! A treat for history and reli- Shandong Peninsula is located. The and at the belief’s peak of popularity, it gion fans. province is heavily involved in trade and tourists can find many items like exacting Though it may surprise some, Shandong Yantai timepieces, beautiful Zibo porcelain also boasts Coastal Vineyards, and the and the majestic kites of Weifang. production of wine has become the sec- ond largest industry in the Shandong But Shandong is also well recognized for Province Second only to agriculture, there it’s cuisine, another of the ‘traditions’ of are more than one hundred wineries Chinese cuisine. It can be divided into along the Shandong Peninsula. ‘inland’ Shandong cuisine, the seafood- centered Jiaodong cuisine in the peninsu- History also runs through the province, la, and Confucius's Mansion cuisine, an and many ancient treasures have been elaborate tradition originally intended for found here. Researchers who unearthed Imperial feasts. As a traveller, your palate clay pots at Dawenkou and Dinggongcun will be pleased with the variety of styles believe that the inscriptions on them are and flavours! actually an example of the earliest written language of the country. There are also Shandong is also filled with beautiful the fascinating ruins of ancient Longshan landscapes, including Mount Taishan City, which many believe was one of which is on the World Cultural and China’s earliest cities. And finally, the por- Natural Heritage List by UNESCO, and its tions of the Great Wall built here are museum is filled with cultural relics, works believed to be the oldest parts in the of art and stone carvings. Besides these country. historic relics, the mountain provides unique natural scenery with tall peaks, low valleys, waterfalls, and the centuries-old American World Traveler Summer 2017

38 G Guangxi uangxi is a highly scenic area in Nanning is capital of the Guangxi region southern China blessed with a sig- and with its warm tropical climate, it is nificant coastline on the South known for parks such as People's Park, China Sea. UNESCO has placed two loca- which includes expansive White Dragon tions in this province on its list. Lake, a hilltop fort and a botanical garden. The city bustles with energy and has many Xingping scenic area offers a "raft experi- The first is the unique and stunning attractions for visitors. Museum lovers have ence", that has become a new industry and Zuojiang Huashan Rock Art Cultural over 20 to choose from and shoppers will there is also a 24km easy hike along the Li Landscape, which is a huge assembly of his- be delighted with the choices and variety of river. torical rock art painted on limestone cliff goods and foods available. Local cuisine is faces over many centuries. An amazing great, as it has been influenced by Canton, Guilin city is nestled within a stunning land- sight to see in person, almost beyond belief! Sichuan, Hunan, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, and in scape and the city has a kind of uniqueness recent years, Sichuan and Cantonese food that is all its own. In the centre of the city lie The second UNESCO site is the South China has become really popular. Be sure to try the 2 lakes, Shanhu and Ronghu, remaining Karst, which is described as "unrivalled in local rice noodles, chestnut rice dumplings, from a medieval-era moat that once sur- terms of the diversity of its karst features and stewed duck with gingko and stewed duck rounded the city. The beautiful crystal clear landscapes”. The Karst is filled with under- with ginger. The city will be the focal point of waters reflect the bamboo trees and ground drainage systems, sinkholes and the “new” Maritime Silk Road, as the city strangely shaped karst hills are compliment- caves. The South China Karst is considered has connections to Southeast Asia and ed by wonderful caverns and caves. The one of the world’s most spectacular humid Guangzhou, Hong Kong and Macao. 2000-year history has led to it being a cul- karst landscapes, and it is easy to see why! turally and historically significant city, as it A hiker’s paradise, this area contains the Even though Liuzhou is a major industrial has been the political, economic and cultur- most familiar types of karst landforms, city with a beautiful karst countryside. The al center of Guangxi for many years. including tower karst, pinnacle karst and city is a unique part of China and it has a cone karst formations, and also offers natu- very large population of ethnic minorities ral bridges, gorges and large cave systems. who bring with them many celebrations and This is really a unique tourist stop and festivals throughout the year. opportunity to view something really differ- ent! One visitor highlight is the Bailian Cave Park, whose park is excellent to explore. Aside from these wonders, there are many There are BBQ areas and are many open other places for a world traveller to investi- spaces to stretch out as well as small seclud- gate in this province. Yangshuo is a famous ed places to meditate or read a book. This scenic town near the karst mountains, and park has something for everyone, including visitors have plenty to enjoy. The Yangdi- a small amusement area with a few rides for small children area and a skating rink! American World Traveler Summer 2017

39 H Shaanxi Aside from the historical tour, it has also a ere is where the great Silk Road number of natural wonders, including the starts and where China began, Hukou Waterfalls of the Yellow River. The as it was here where the Qin famous river, second only to the Yangtze, dynasty warrior emperor united much of runs through nine provinces on its way to the country for the first time. Shaanxi the Bohai Sea and nature has seen to it became the cradle of Chinese civilisation Holding a prominent place in Chinese that some magnificence can be found and the beginning of the Silk Road. military history, Yan'an city it is considered along the course. As the River flows a revolutionary holy place in China. It was through the many mountains and gorges Xian, the Capital city of the Province, has the military headquarters during the to Hukou, the water tumbles over the many attractions for all tastes, but has Chinese Anti-Japanese War and China's rocks from the second largest waterfall in special treats for history lovers. The War of Liberation and was the location of China. As the riverbed of the Falls resem- archaeological sites include an excavated the Central Committee of the Chinese bles a teapot, the waterfall has been Neolithic village and royal graves with Communist Party. Visiting the Yangjialing named Hukou Waterfalls (Kettle Spout museums and information centres. The Revolutionary Site which is the former Falls). A sight to see! most alluring attraction is also an essential office of the CCP (Chinese Communist visit which is the tomb of Qin Shi Huang Party) Central Committee, is a memorable The Mausoleum of Yellow Emperor is and his Army of Terracotta Warriors, one experience that offers a window on history. another must see in the province, and it of the world's top heritage sites! It has Open to the public since 1959, tourists contains many of China’s sacred spaces become one of the most famous archaeo- can visit the Great Auditorium, the Office for their ancient leaders. In the main hall, logical finds in the world, and the under- Building and especially the artificial caves the "Great Hall of Man and Civilizations's ground life-size army of thousands has carved into hillsides which were the resi- First Ancestor" there is a beautiful sculp- silently guarded over the soul of China's dences legends like Chairman Mao! The ture of the Emperor and a magnificent first unifier for more than two thousand exhibition also contains many relics of shrine decorated with some Chinese spiri- years. high historical importance. tual animals, a dragon, a tiger, a vermil- ion bird and a black turtle. The mau- Aside from the historical aspects, Xian has soleum’s aspects are matched by the sur- become a busy travel destination with rounding park. It is one of the top parks in restaurants, museums, ancient pagodas, China and it is home to over 60,000 and an interesting Muslim Quarter. The mature cypress trees, 30,000 of which are outskirts contain fascinating villages that over one thousand years old! are still operating as they have for hun- dreds of years. American World Traveler Summer 2017

40 G Gansu Greatest Pass Under Heaven", the pass ansu province in the North West was a key waypoint of the ancient Silk region of China historically Road. Touring the area, a visit to marked the ‘end or beginning’ of Jiayuguan city is a must as well. Lying in China, depending on if you were traveling the Gobi Desert between Lanzhou and east towards Xi'an or west towards Central Dunhuang, the city started as a fortress Asia and Europe. ing karst mountains to grasslands to fast built to protect the last frontier of the flowing rivers. But the stunning red sand- Chinese empire. Later it became an UNESCO has listed several locals in stone beds of the Danxia Landforms are important part of the Silk Road and the Gansu, the first of which are the Mogao simply spectacular! Marked with dramatic first pass at the west end of the Great Caves. These magnificent cells and sanc- colours, several Danxia Landforms are list- Wall. tuaries in caves, originally constructed in ed by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites 366AD, contain Buddhist art that dates due to their natural and visual value. Tianshui is another visitor’s paradise for from the 4th to the 14th century. Chinese Many look straight out of a painting! history and art. The city and its surround- authorities have preserved many of the ings have played a vital role in the early caves with nearly 45,000 square meters of The Great Wall flows through the province history of China, as evidenced by all of murals and more than 2,000 painted as well, and it houses Jiayuguan, the the historic sites there. The large Dadiwan sculptures! Astounding images from 1000 Wall’s most intact ancient military building Site is a New Stone Age archeological site years of history offer glimpses of the past. still standing today. Dubbed the "First and that dates back 7,800 to 4,800 years! Preserved homes and tools help tourists One cave contains a vivid scene of cultur- explore the ancient history of the city and al exchange along the Silk Road by show- area. Many cultural relics have been ing a camel pulling a cart in a typical unearthed including simple chipped stone trade mission from a bygone period as tools, specialized implements, and colored well as scenes of workers in the fields and pottery. An interesting window on ancient a line of warriors. Other images show the China. landscapes of Mount Wutai, which is an early example of artistic Chinese cartogra- The province is also home to Xiahe , phy. home to the Labrang Tibetan Buddhist monastery, one of the largest Tibetan UNESCO has also listed some of the Buddhist monasteries outside of Tibet. Zhangye Danxia Landform in Gansu Spiritualists will enjoy the grand temples, Province. China’s ever changing land- variety of the festivals and the magnificent scape contains many different kinds of peaceful feeling present in the mountain unique and beautiful settings. from tower- forests. American World Traveler Summer 2017

41 C Ningxia By far, the Yellow River Drift is an adven- hina’s history and longevity have ture every visitor should enjoy. Floating given way to many locations that along the Yellow River on a raft is scary at are protected under the UNESCO first, but the course itself is quite safe. listings. In Ningxia, the Western Xia Experienced rafters ensure that the ride is Imperial Tombs in the vast Gobi desert safe and help passengers learn about and have offered a wealth of information Zhongwei is a great place to take the fam- appreciate the landscapes along the way. about the Western Xia Dynasty. The glori- ily, especially the Shapotou tourist area ous layout, tiered tomb walls, high towers that has a desert, a mountain, a river, and Tongxin is home to one of oldest mosques and various mausoleum buildings confer beautiful gardens. Shapotou is near the in all of China. The Great Mosque in a grandiose vision of the dynasty’s hey- Tengger Desert, which is considered one Wuzhong City displays typical Han archi- day. They are a must see for all visitors. of the most beautiful deserts in China. tecture, well, except for the crescent moon From the area’s hilltop, visitors can gaze on the roof! Built in the 14th century, it The region also contains the Helan at the desert to the north, and the oasis to has played a part in the foundation of the Mountains, an isolated desert mountain the south. There are some unique activities People's Republic of China, as it was host range that have recently become home to as well, including a 1000-metre-long, to a public meeting that led to the forma- China’s Emerging wine industry. The entire 100-metre-high sand slide! tion of the Yuwang Hui Autonomous region has seen heavy investment from Government in 1939! A fascinating place both the government and businesses, and to visit and a must see. the ‘fruit’ of their labours are delicious! The capital, Yinchuan, lies in the middle of the Ningxia Plain and is sheltered by the high ranges of the Helan Mountains. Here you can find a high concentration of rock art. The main concentration of carvings is in Helankou, a gorge cutting through the mountain chain, and is called the Helankou Rock Engravings Park. They are the combined efforts of the nomads to the north and the farmers in the south to cele- brate the two lifestyles. A treat for the eyes and a wondrous legacy through art. American World Traveler Summer 2017

42 Q Qinghai mountains, valleys and lakes with stunning inghai province is located south waterfalls as well. The mountains and val- of the Republic of Mongolia, east leys are beautiful, and the drive there was of Xinjiang, and north of Tibet in spectacular. On the Langshidang side of the far northern reaches of the massive the park there are hotels and tourist wel- Tibetan Plateau. UNESCO has placed the coming centres. The Zhalonggou side is a Quinghai Lake in the Qinghai Hoh Xil largest lake in China, and the Bird Island little more remote and quiet. The Zha Long National Natural Reserve on their list. It has National Park, one of the world’s most Temple, a small Buddhist temple, is the only become a bird watcher’s paradise and the important wetlands, is under the protection sight other than lots of small farms with ecological environment and biodiversity of the International Wetland Protection cows and other animals, and as you get to offers a great deal for visitors, naturalists, Treaty. Bird lovers know that this park is one the Park there is waterfall near the parking scientists and nature lovers. It is a huge of the best bird refuges in the world, but it area! inland saline lake watershed and the sur- can be equally beautiful for regular tourists! rounding streams and rivers have created Huangzhong is the home of the famous the unique plateau wetland ecosystem As well, the annual Tour of Qinghai Lake is Kumbum Monastery, a fascinating place which makes an ideal habitat for many wild a professional road bicycle racing race held that offers visitors a glimpse at a real, work- animals, including the Tibetan Antelope since 2002. The race is sanctioned by the ing monastery with monks at their prayers and the endangered Przewalski's gazelle International Cycling Union (UCI) as a 2HC to the Buddha. Here you can see the monks (Procapra przewalskii). race as part of the UCI Asia Tour. Camping working the prayer wheels and going about is also an option, with lakeside lots and their day’s labours. The tour offers a trip to A second UNESCO listing is the majestic sunrises so spectacular that you will never the Dalai Lama’s residence, which was sim- Yardangs landscape clusters in the arid and want it to end. ple, quiet and peaceful – just as you would desert regions. Dozens of meters high, imagine! these ridge-shaped Yardangs are imposing Another park, the HuZhu BeiShan National and some even look like a large fleet of Forest Park, is a beautiful forest park with In Golmud, the second largest city in ships in a vast sea. The most typical ones Qinghai, we find the start of the Qinghai- are shaped like towers or columns, but Tibet Railway. Taking the train allows there are some that appear in animal tourists to travel through the province’s shapes like eagles, horses and turtles. It is amazing Chaerhan Salt Lake. More than very surreal and visiting it is like visiting 160 kilometers long and 30 wide, it is sur- Mars! rounded by endless desert. It is a sight to behold, as on days with lots of sun, the sur- There are many interesting areas to visit in face of the lake looks like a huge mirror or this province, and Qinghaihu National Park a boundless sea. A must see! is an amazing stop. The park contains the American World Traveler Summer 2017

43 X Xinjiang Tianshan Tianchi Lake is another beautiful injiang is located in the North lake surrounded by mountains. After West of China, in the Mongolian climbing several thousand meters to the Uplands and was a key city on the top of the mountain, you can take a trolley Silk Road and a hub for east-west cultural until you reach the lake. Picturesque and exchanges in ancient times. breathtaking, you can take a short boat ancient region and explore the influence ride around the lake or hike the moun- Visiting here is a treat and UNESCO has of China in the area. The museum tains! listed Xinjiang Tianshan, part of one of the includes sections that explore history, pas- largest mountain ranges in the world, the toral arts, jade and other sections that are For a change of pace, a visit to the capital Tianshan mountain system. Whether driv- as fascinating as they are informative. city Urumqi is just the thing. Here, high- ing or biking or hiking, the beauty of this rise apartments and business centres place is undeniable. Snowy mountains Karakol Lake is a magnificent lake sur- replace the peace and quite of the coun- glaciers, forests and meadows, clear rivers rounded by snow-covered mountains. The tryside. Though not an historic city, its and lakes that have remained undisturbed lake is a destination of choice for trav- museum is excellent and there are some for ages. Added to this natural beauty, ellers for its beautiful scenery and clear very interesting districts and tourist attrac- UNESCO also notes that the landscapes water, whose color ranges from a dark tions like Hongshan Park. This is a great a contrast with the neighbouring desert, green to azure and light blue. great place to walk and enjoy great views offering the best of opportunities for pho- of the city, best from the hilltop pagoda, tographers and naturists. Even more, the which has become the city’s icon. ecosystems of the site have been in place since the Pliocene epoch and offer biolo- gists and scientists an exceptional example of ongoing biological and ecological evo- lutionary progression. In addition to this scientific marvel, the site continues into the Taklimakan Desert, one of the world’s largest and highest deserts! Xinjiang Tianshan is, above all, a home for some rare and endangered species of plants and animals. The Xinjiang Silk Road Museum is a must visit for history fans. In the Museum, visi- tors learn about the civilizations of the American World Traveler Summer 2017

Winnipeg Connections Article & Photography by Steve Gillick T ravellers seeking that important con- meaning ‘the heart of the community’ hon- land, the success of Louis Riel in defending nection with the destination they ours the connection between the sky and the rights of the Métis in the 19th Century, visit, need search no further. the earth, that includes lenses through and ultimately the creation of the Province Winnipeg, Manitoba has been at the fore- which visitors can peer at night to view the of Manitoba in 1870. And each one of the front of ‘connections’ for 6000 years. mythological constellations that support the guides, curators and museum directors we creation beliefs of Indigenous people met throughout our visit spoke about the The Forks, where the Red and Assiniboine around the world. vital connections between the people and Rivers meet, is a great place to start, with the land. Parks Canada tours that provide a quick And with the message that every metre of and easy history (‘6000 years in 60 earth at the Forks represents 1000 years of The directions to walk from the Forks to the Minutes’) while walking the land and history, our guide spoke about the Saint Boniface Museum are easy. Take the explaining the buildings, monuments and Indigenous groups who called the Forks Esplanade Riel on the Provencher Bridge, plaques that tell the story of the city. their meeting place, the arrival of the past “Mon Ami Riel’ (My friend Riel), the Hudson’s Bay Company’s fur traders in the only restaurant-on-a-bridge in North The Oodena Celebration Circle is front and 17th century, the Selkirk Settlers in the 18th America, to the giant bust of Louis Riel centre at the Forks. The Ojibway word Century, the role of the Métis in building the down the street. This is where the Museum Celebrating Canada’s 150th

Director, Vania Gagnon told us about Jean- National Historic Site containing the largest One of the highlights of my visit was 45 Baptist Lagimodière, a fur trader, and his collection of Heritage buildings on the con- the ‘Bird in the Hand Experience’ that wife Marie-Anne Gabouray, who was the tinent. Festivals, shops, art galleries, the- involves banding birds. After their capture first European woman to marry a French atres and restaurants are the hallmark of in special nets, each bird has it’s leg fitted Canadian and settle in Red River the area. One of my favourite places for with an identification band, their wing (Winnipeg) in 1812. One of the couple’s lunch or dinner is the Peasant Cookery. length measured and their belly fat checked children married a man by the name of Aside from their excellent cocktails and wine to see if they are about to migrate or have Louis Riel, who had a son, named Louis list, the food is simply amazing (try the King just completed part of the migratory route Riel, who became the founder of Manitoba. Salmon). that stretches from the Yukon to the Gulf of And Vania Gagnon knows, as her maiden Mexico. The birds are then weighed and name is Lagimodière and she is Louis Riel’s In the days of the Fur Traders however, the released. I was thrilled to personally hold first cousin, five times removed. main food was Buffalo meat in the form of and release two tiny Yellow-rumped Pemmican, a powder-like, high protein, Warblers. Darlene Wight at the WAG, the Winnipeg easy to carry, nutriment. Today, visitors can Art Gallery, has an envious job. As the learn about Buffalo first hand at Fort Whyte But without doubt, one of Winnipeg’s main Curator of Inuit Art, she not only travels to Alive, just south of the city. On the Bison attractions is the Canadian Museum for various communities in northern Manitoba, Safari, visitors get up-close-and-personal Human Rights. The stunning design by Ontario and Nunavut, but she brings back with 30 or so adult Bison and new-born Antoine Predock fulfilled the architect’s Aboriginal myths conveyed through beauti- calves that are grazing, nursing, sleeping three goals: to showcase Canada, to wel- fully carved sculptures, prints, drawings, and wallowing in the dirt. come the people of the world into the build- textiles, dolls and clothing. In fact the WAG ing, and to have the design incorporate the has the largest collection of Inuit Art in the And with Buffalo in mind, we visited the perspective of the Indigenous people. world. A small portion is on display in vari- Manitoba Museum where a life-size diora- Connecting the earth to the sky, the building ous museum galleries while the others ma of a Métis Buffalo hunt near the design features four roots representing (13,000 pieces in total) rest in a closed vault entrance ensures that visitors appreciate the Mother Earth, prairie grasses, a cloud that (that I was allowed to visit), waiting for the contribution of the Métis and the impor- mimics the wings of a dove (and represents new Inuit Art Centre to open in 2019. tance of the buffalo to the history of the peace), all rising to the Tower of Hope. province. The Museum collection includes And for those looking for a more modest some 26,000 artifacts from the Hudson’s Throughout the Museum galleries, the collection of Indigenous art, Neechi Bay Company, along with exhibits that theme that “All human beings are born free Commons is the place to go. Louise showcase the Inuit as well as First Nations and equal in dignity and rights” is present- Champagne, the President of the Co-op such as the Dene, Algonquin, Cree,and ed with a reassuring sub-theme of “moving explained that Neechi is a Cree word that Ojibway. from darkness to light”. For visitors who implies ‘relationships’ and community con- take the Indigenous Mikinak-Keya Spirit nections. The Commons includes the In an effort to dispel the believe that Tour, they will learn about the Seven Sacred Neechi Niche consignment store (that Canadian tourism consists of “Mounties, Animals and their teachings that are found began as a way for locals to barter home- Mountains and Moose”, the Oak Hammock throughout the building: The Buffalo made crafts, such as moccasins, for gro- Marsh, about 40 minutes north of (Respect), Eagle (Love), Bear (Courage), ceries), Kookum’s (Grandmother’s) Bakery Winnipeg, offers a fascinating adventure Sabe (Honesty), Beaver (Wisdom), Wolf that specializes in Bannock (the traditional into wetlands, wildlife and wonderment. (Humility) and Turtle (Truth). This is a Indigenous Canadian bread), a grocery Museum experience like none other. store, and an entire wall featuring the works This is where I learned that my wing span of local artists, which also serves as a touch (actually my stretched-out arms) was the And when you experience Winnipeg you of colour, charm and visual conversation for same as a Great Grey Owl, which coinci- quickly come to realize that this is a city like the diners in the Bison Berry Restaurant. This dentally is the Provincial Bird of Manitoba. no other. Winnipeg is a vibrant, exciting city is where I had my Bonnie Burger, consisting On the boardwalk through the marsh, we that responds to the needs and special of a Bison patty with spinach, goat cheese, feasted on the cucumber/watermelon taste interests of visitors and provides opportuni- mozzarella and sautéed onions, on a of cattail stems, as well as the sights and ties at every step for physical, visual and Bannock Bun. It was so good and filling that sounds of Redhead Ducks, Green-winged spiritual connections with the land of the I couldn’t finish my delicious dessert of Wild Teals, Red-winged Blackbirds, American people. Rice Pudding! White Pelicans and Tree Swallows. While the muskrats and beavers seemed to be sleep- www.travelmanitoba.com For an exciting experience of a different ing in their dens, a colony of Richardson’s kind, Winnipeg’s Exchange District is a Ground Squirrels was actively scampering in and out of their burrows. American World Traveler Summer 2017

Atlantic Arctic Indian Pa c i f i c Southern Ocean Adriatic Yangtze C r u i s i n g w i t h W O R L D Aegean Seine Traveler Saône Mediterranean Rhône Rhine Caribbean Nile Moselle B a lt i c Black CRUISING SECTION Mekong Cruise News - page 48 - 49 South-China Sea Cruising Cuba with Celestyal’s Crystal - page 52 I n a u g u r a l Vo y a g e s - page 54 Main C r u i s i n g w i t h Tu l l y L u x u r y Tr a v e l - page 56 Danube This Photo: MSC MERAVIGLIA C o m e Wi t h U s & S a i l T h e Wo r l d !

48 AmaWaterways Avalon Azamara Carnival Celebrit Norwegian, Alibaba Partner to Enter China Cruise Market Norwegian Cruise Lines recently announced that it was partnering with Chinese commerce giant Alibaba Group to help the cruise line reach customers in the growing China market. The partnership will see Alibaba supporting Norwegian Cruise Line with customer engagement, online-to-offline experiences, and data N e w s insights. The new 3,883-passenger Norwegian Joy will begin sailing from Shanghai at the end of June. The ship is Norwegian Cruise Line’s first ship cus- tom-designed for the Chinese market, combining the best of the East and the West. The ship will officially be christened during an event in Shanghai on June 27, featuring Chinese pop star Wang Leehom. The re-imagined Delfin III (formerly www.ncl.com the Amazon Discovery) launched ear- lier this year and offers three, four and six-night cruises in 2017 through Crystal Announces Complete Redesigns of the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve, the largest and most richly diverse Symphony & Serenity area in the Amazon region. The most awarded luxury ships in the world are set to undergo their most extensive The vessel provides guests with an redesigns in their respective histories, as Crystal unveils the complete plans for immersive rainforest experience while Crystal Symphony’s and Crystal Serenity’s dry dock transformations. In what the treating them to the highest level of company is calling the “Evolution of Crystal luxury. The ship has a capacity for up Luxury,” in 2017 and 2018, Crystal will to 43 passengers and is furnished C r u i s e embark on the multi-million-dollar invest- ment that will see the two ships reimagined with the finest details: hardwood to new standards of innovative luxury. The floors, designer furniture, and hand- plans for Crystal’s two ocean ships are the made Peruvian artifacts. Guests have latest in its tremendous brand expansion, the option of four room classes: on which will also see new river yachts, new the first deck there are eight suites ocean-going vessels and a privately- co mplete with floor to ceiling owned Boeing 777 join the fleet in the next panoramic windows, plus two spa- three years. cious corner suites facing out the www.crystalcruises.com front of the ship. The second deck is comprised of 10 upper suites and the largest suite, the Owner's Suite. The top deck features a beautiful Avalon Widens the indoor/outdoor lounge, sundeck with plunge pool, a spa and gym, and Possibilities to Sail Asia’s bar. Most Narrow Waterways www.delfinamazoncruises.com A journey on one of Asia’s great rivers offers a tapestry of fascinat- ing sights, colorful cultures and ancient traditions. A journey on Avalon Waterways’ smaller ships widens the possibilities, getting travelers closer to all the must-see sights and introducing them to new destinations, locals and their way of life. On the heels of unveiling two, NEW 36-guest Suite Ships® on the Irrawaddy and Mekong Rivers in two years, Avalon Waterways has announced plans to cruise farther into the Far East by increasing its fleet – and vacation portfolio – with another Suite Ship for the Mekong River – the Avalon Saigon – and new ways to see and explore Southeast Asia. www.avalonwaterways.com Royal-Caribbean Scenic Seabourn SeaDream Si

ty Costa Crystal Cunard Disney Holland America 49 Hurtigruten Contiki and U by Uniworld Launch River Cruising for the Millennial Market Contiki is to begin selling U by Uniworld, a new type of river cruising product designed for travellers between the ages of 21-45 launched by sister company Uniworld. U by Uniworld brings a Contiki touch to the Uniworld River cruising experience, with inclusions relevant to the millennial traveller. Ships offer sunrise yoga on deck and bikes on board for exploring each destination, allowing travellers to stay active while indulging in included wine tasting and expert MSC cocktail mixology classes. For the night owls, there are two bars to choose from, as well as a rooftop lounge where local guest DJs will be invited aboard to host exclusive parties in an open-air environment. The whole experience offers a slower pace of travel that provides a different perspective on Europe, travel- ling on some of the world’s most iconic rivers. Norwegian Travellers can select from four U by Uniworld river cruising itineraries, offering trips of eight days in duration: The Seine Experience, All in on Germany, The Danube Flow and Rolling on the Rhine along the Rhine, Main, Danube and Seine rivers. The river cruises incorporate overnight stops and longer stays in major cities including Paris, Vienna, Amsterdam and Budapest. All trips include 14 meals, welcome reception, dedicated U Cruise host, eight included excursions and 12 U Time optional adventures for travellers to enjoy. On-board amenities include a gym, a cocktail bar serving up a signature U cocktail, and energetic and friendly crew to take care of your needs whether onboard or onshore. The river cruises will run throughout the European summer months with 18 departures dates on each trip itinerary from March – November, with the first departure in March 2018. contiki.com Oceania VIKING RIVER CRUISES UNVEILS NEW SHIP DESIGN IN EGYPT All-Suite Viking Ra Will Begin Sailing New Nile River Cruisetour in Spring 2018 Ponant Viking River Cruises has announced details of the newest addition to its river fleet, Viking Ra™. Recently acquired, the vessel has been stripped down to the steel to undergo a complete renovation that will reflect Viking’s award-winning Scandinavian design. Tailored to an intimate sailing experience for just 48 guests, Viking Ra will sail the Nile River on a new Egypt cruisetour, Pharaohs & Pyramids, that will launch in March 2018. Artist Rendering “Egypt is one of the most intriguing countries in the world, and it Princess remains a top destination for many of our guests,” said Torstein Hagen, Chairman of Viking Cruises. “For two decades, we have led Ra’s name also pays homage to the great Norwegian explorer the industry in river cruising with our innovative ship design and itin- Thor Heyerdahl and his papyrus-reed boats Ra and Ra II. eraries that bring our guests closer to the cultures of the world. We Designed by experienced nautical architects and engineers, are committed to Egypt, and with the introduction of Viking Ra, we including the same interior design team responsible for the look forward to providing our award-winning service to our guests award-winning fleet of Viking Longships®, Viking Ra will be a on the Nile – and to their experiencing this culturally rich region in state-of-the art ship with the clean, elegant Scandinavian design the Viking way.” for which Viking is known blended with local influences like tradi- tional geometric Arabic patterns and terrazzo floors. Viking Ra will Regent Viking Ra Designed for Destination Cruising help guests immerse themselves in local surroundings and will feature: All Suite Staterooms, Pool and Two Jacuzzis, Spa, The newly rebuilt, all-suite Viking Ra will boast 24 staterooms that Onboard Dining, Bar and Lounge and Enriching Entertainment. will exclusively accommodate 48 Viking guests for an intimate cruis- ing experience. Named in honor the Egyptian sun god Ra, Viking www.vikingrivercruises.com lversea Star-Clippers Uniworld Viking Windstar

52 Cruising Cuba with Celestyal’s Crystal by Olivia Balsinger C uba has resided at the top of my travel bucket list for as long as I can remember. Maybe it has something to do with my affinity with Dirty Dancing, in my opinion one of the most exquisite movies Though I had never pictured my first venture to Cuba being on a cruise ship, in retrospect I believe it is one of the most comprehensive ways to see as many pockets of this multi- faceted country as possible. We set sail for the island in the most Cuban way possible: with mojitos flowing and a groove in our step at the ship’s disco. Santiago de Cuba of all time. Or perhaps it has something to do with the fascinating contrast between The Celestyal Experience Santiago de Cuba, the former capital on the how different our cultures are and yet how Eastern tip and Cuba’s second largest city, is close our geography. Even more, it could be In November Celestyal announced that an essential first stop for understanding the the people, the history, the revolutionary Crystal would be sailing to Cuba year- Cuba’s intricate history. Santiago significant- spirit lingering in the air, the lack of adver- round, after five years of seasonal journeys. ly pulsates its Afro-Cuban roots; according- tisements saturating the cityscapes. While costs of cabin vary by size and sea- ly, Celestyal’s itinerary focused on bringing son, all are inclusive of shore excursions, this pivotal chapter in the country's history Whatever the reason was, two things were meals, onboard presentations, gratuities book to the forefront: We listened to speak- certain: First, I knew I needed to visit this and port charges. Drink packages (alcoholic ers discuss the city’s significance at the Afro- lively yet mysterious island. and non-alcoholic) are not included and Cuban Cultural center, watched (and partic- must be purchased separately for a nominal ipated!) in a lively dance performance and And second, when the opportunity arose for fee. wandered through The Revolutionary me to embark on Celestyal Cruises seven- Square. day itinerary circumnavigating Cuba on the Day One: Montego Bay, Jamaica Crystal, I knew that any prior obligations Santiago is also known as the birthplace of would be put on the back burner. I began my journey on a Friday in Montego the Cuban Revolution, as it is here where Bay, Jamaica, which is one of the two possi- ble embarkations (the other being Havana on the subsequent Monday). I spent my Olivia Balsinger morning exploring the colorful town known for its reggae music, hospitality and fishing villages, prior to arriving at the terminal (about a 15-minute drive from Sangster International Airport) mid afternoon. After a swift boarding process, I attended a presentation on Cuban visual arts and cul- ture, prepping us for the week to come.

Fidel Castro first attacked the country’s army how Cuba is portrayed to Cubans. “cruise ship meals,” I was pleasantly barracks in 1963 and where he chose to rest surprised with Crystal's dining. 53 after his recent death. Our tour group took Afterwards I dined in a Cuban paladar—a a special detour to the graveyard and wit- restaurant run by self-employers, normally For more casual dining, guests may opt for ness this moment of history, melding past in private homes. The delicious spread con- the 9th floor self-serve Leda Buffet for and present. sisted of rice, beans and tres leches cake, breakfast, lunch or dinner. The two more which I indulged surrounded by warmth and formal dining rooms on board, The Full Day at Sea hospitality in a converted and charming Olympus Restaurant and The Amalthia Cuban living room. Restaurant, are that perfect balance of On the third day of our journey, we sailed sophistication and authenticity. I was delight- from Santiago to Havana. Despite the I then took a quintessential ride around town ed to have choice of multiple Cuban dishes Crystal having modest recreational facilities, in a 1958 hot pink Cadillac, blasting Cuban during lunch and dinners. I never once found myself twiddling thumbs salsa music, the salty Atlantic Ocean breeze in boredom. While there may not be an tickling my nostrils on El Malecon, Havana’s After dinner, I would often find myself in the IMAX movie theater or miniature golf course roadway parallel to the ocean. Eros Lounge, relaxing and unwinding onboard, I continued to learn about Cuba’s among a crowd of fellow passengers. With storied past-- from stimulating lectures on We spent our sixth day on board sailing a martini in hand and the onboard band's topic ranging from Cuban musical instru- from Havana towards Cienfuegos, on the melody in the air, I'd reflect on my day of ments and religious history to cooking class- southern coast, with a plethora of activities adventures and wander what next is in store. es with Cuban chefs. to enjoy. Feeling restless? Check out the panoramic Horizons Bar on the top deck, which Havana Trinidad becomes a popular disco for young and young-at-heart alike and is open until the Our first day in the capital gave us “a real On the seventh day, we boarded a bus to wee hours of the morning. taste of Havana” beginning in the Old City Trinidad, so pristinely preserved, we may Center, comprising of a stunning mix of have been stepping into a page from a his- Vamos a Cuba! Baroque monuments and colorful private tory book. All my senses were stimulated as residences. Our guide, a Havana native, I walked about town—I enjoyed simultane- The Celestyal journey to Cuba is perfect for was an exceptional spokeswoman, seam- ously listening to the sultry tones of a Cuban seasoned travelers who hope to do more lessly weaving personal anecdotes into the street band (and, yes, I also participated by than lounging poolside and sipping a mar- nation’s intricate history book. She led us on shaking maracas!), catching whiffs of dust garita. The program is for the intellectually a walking tour through Old Havana from years past mixing with fried plantains curious, young and old. On my journey, I (Habana Vieja), where we saw Saint Francis from the local paladar and ogling at bright met fellow travelers from all walks of life. I of Assisi Square, Cathedral Square and the building pastels. Trinidad is where tourists would ask them why they were here and Royal Forces castle. from North America experience untouched they each said something similar. They had Cuba. a desire to learn and experience the intrica- Our group then visited the outdoor mosaic cies of a country that for so long had suf- instillations of legendary Cuban ceramicist Montego Bay fered from civil war, invasion and political and graphic artist, Jose Fuster, who famous- polarization. ly turned around a somewhat depressed The last day of our cruise brought us back to and grim neighborhood by way of his art. Montego Bay and although I knew I would Celestyal allows visitors the opportunity to That evening we witnessed a spectacle of a very much miss Cuba, I disembarked with a witness the Cuba of today, a bright and col- performance at the Tropicana—one of the bottle of Havana club rum, two cigars and, orful nation that acknowledges its history, few nightclubs that survived (and thrived!) of course, memories that will last lifetimes. but also boasts a sense of exuberant pride. during the Revolution. It is hard to explore this island country with Where You’ll Sleep Celestyal Cruises and not become captivat- Following an evening at the legendary ed by the history and the beauty of the Tropicana club, I woke up in Havana, admit- The Crystal boasts 476 staterooms (317 are Cuban people. tedly exhausted yet eager to continue explor- outside cabins and 163 are inside cabins.) ing. I spent the morning visiting both The There are 15 cabin types to choose from www.celestyalcruises.com Fine Arts Museum and the neighboring aboard the ship, accommodating individual Museum of the Revolution (Museo de la needs and budgets. Staterooms are Revolución). Both were stunning insights into equipped with air conditioning, telephones, televisions and hairdryers. Passengers may pay for Wi-Fi to enjoy any- where on board, which is certainly helpful as internet connections are unreliable and rare on land. Olivia Balsinger Where You’ll Eat & Drink Though I’ve never been one to flock to buf- fets or especially enjoy those quintessential American World Traveler Summer 2017

Seven Reasons an Inaugural Voyage May Be the Ultimate Cruise Vacation Celebrity Edge Villa Glamorous Champagne Christenings & Outlandish Celebrations by Cruise Compete

A remember your voyage. Sometimes the 55 n inaugural cruise: The phrase 6. An Immaculate, Sparkling brings to mind the exclusive nature lines even go a bit further, giving each Environment. of glamorous champagne christen- cabin a very special present, usually cus- ings, celebrity godmothers and brand-new tomized, worth $50 or more. Just like a new house, or car, there’s a cer- ship features and amenities. Avid cruisers tain appeal to being on a brand-new 3. Introductory Pricing ship…. where accommodations have no add these voyages to the top their vaca- wear and tear, and there’s no sign of the tion lists, due to the many perks and To create interest in the ship, some maiden passengers who have come before. Every bonuses of the sailings. voyages offer rates on an itinerary that will part of the ship is in untouched condition – be priced significantly higher in the future. the rooms are pristine, the carpets spot- CruiseCompete has compiled a list of Since public opinion has not yet been less, and every dish, sheet and towel has seven things to love about an inaugural formed and the cruise lines are eager to never been used. Is there such a thing as a cruise. put their best foot forward, the inaugural new-ship smell? There’s only one way to sailing of a ship can sometimes translate find out. 1. Global Celebrations to a steal on cruise fares. 7. Customized Services Depending on the significance of the ship, 4. The Excitement of Exclusivity there may be a very impressive pomp- Because the shipboard routine is still fluid, and-circumstance inaugural ceremony, You’ve been written into a page of history the ship’s staff tends to be quite flexible with esteemed guests from all over the as a member of the “elite” group of pas- with things like menus, seating options and world. Then too, the arrival of a new ship sengers present for the very first sailing of the scheduling of on-board activities. There in port may be cause for local celebrations a new ship. Not to mention, there are is an accommodating flow in areas that all along the voyage, with festivities in sev- some serious bragging rights that go simply won’t be possible on later cruises as eral cities during the course of the itiner- along with being able to say, "I was on the schedules solidify. ary. maiden voyage of that beautiful ship". There is unquestionably something special 2. A Memorable Voyage 5. Beyond Special Amenities about being on board a cruise ship during the inaugural cruise, but these voyages do The lines frequently offer mementos to Positive word of mouth is the key to better fill up early. passengers of a maiden voyage. When booking for future sailings, so the line may Cunard's Queen Mary 2 launched, she offer extra special food options, entertain- There are currently 79 ships scheduled to offered "Limited Edition" QM2 maiden- ment and activities. Passengers on a maid- debut from 2017 to 2020. To research voyage commemorative items, including t- en voyage can take advantage of perks upcoming maiden voyages, please visit the shirts, playing cards, cups and saucers, that may not exist on future sailings. Inaugural Cruises section on: stamps, baseball caps and key chains… and even painted ostrich eggs! These small souvenirs are a tangible way to www.cruisecompete.com MSC Seaside Carnival Vista Skyride American World Traveler Summer 2017

56 All aboard! Debunking popular cruise myths by Tully Luxury Travel C ruising is one of the most popular travel. While cruise ships vary in style and Expeditions cruises can include adventure ways to travel the world, with more size, all of them contain a world of options activities such as hiking volcanos, biking on than 20 million people heading for for onboard entertainment. The key is mountains and diving in coral reefs. Yacht the seas each year. But, armed with images choosing the right ship for your entertain- cruises offer water adventurers even more of bland food buffets and overcrowded ment needs. Some of the large mega-ships options. Crystal’s Esprit, for example, ports, some still view cruising as a shame- have everything from fitness centres and comes with top-of-the-line water equip- ful stain on real travel. Here at Tully Luxury multiplex theatres to multiple restaurants, ment like speedboats, paddle boards and Travel, our experts have been cruising for nightclubs, casinos and Broadway-style even a deep-sea submersible. Solo three decades and sending our clients on shows — not to mention a dizzying array of cruisiers will find more ships now offer cab- dazzling holidays around the world on waterslides, pools and glitzy attractions. On ins for one. Norwegian, for example, has ships of all kinds. We truly believe that in these ships, you would be hard-pressed to cabins designed for single travelers of all today’s cruise market, there is a perfect enjoy all the offerings during a weeklong ages and includes a private lounge for ship for every kind of traveler. Don’t believe sailing. these guests to relax and mingle. us? Read on as we debunk the most com- mon myths and misconceptions about Different cruise companies offer other types Myth: The ports are overcrowded tourist cruising. of entertainment. Enjoy lectures and enrich- traps. ment programs? Some Cunard ships offer Myth: I’ll be so bored! technology classes, workshops from the Truth: If a popular port of call is not your Royal Academy of Dramatic Arts and idea of a good time, consider a cruise that Truth: Being “stuck” on a ship with nothing stargazing presentations from the Royal goes off the beaten path. Yes, you read that to do is one of the top reasons why travel- Astronomical Society. correctly — contrary to popular belief, ers overlook cruising as a viable option for cruises do travel beyond the most popular Myth: I’m too young for a cruise! ports of call. In fact, cruises can sometimes visit places that are only accessible by air or Truth: At some point in time, cruising got sea. the reputation of being a pastime of retired folks. Although many retirees have discov- Have you ever heard of Severozapadniy ered the joy of cruising, this is certainly not Cape? This is one of the stops aboard a the only demographic that can enjoy a Silversea cruise to Russia’s rarely visited Far good cruise. Different companies offer East, where travelers walk along water- activities and itineraries for all ages and logged dirt roads to a sea lion rookery on group sizes, including solo travelers and the north side of the cape. Or perhaps a multi-generational families. see following page American World Traveler Summer 2017

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58 cruise along the mighty Mekong River that With a luxury cruise, you can experience 5- Myth: I can’t go on a cruise - I get seasick! separates Vietnam and Cambodia is more star cuisine that can be enjoyed in the din- to your liking? National Geographic hosts ing room or served on your private veran- Truth: Nowadays, almost all ships come expedition cruises along this waterway, dah, course by course. The movement for with fixed stabilizers to help control and stopping to explore traditional villages. culinary excellence with cooking workshops reduce the ship’s “rock n’ roll” due to strong and enrichment programs are now the winds and waves. Half the time you barely And if you are dreaming of a sunny get- norm. You can even have the opportunity to even feel the ship moving unless you’re away closer to home but don’t want the shop with a chef at a local market and really focusing on it. If you are very worried hassle of overcrowded ports, many smaller enjoy an amazing meal with locally about the amount of movement, book an cruise lines head to out-of-the-way sourced produce. itinerary that’s prone to calmer waters, like Caribbean ports that have less tourists and the Caribbean, and reserve a cabin that’s more beach space. Myth: I need a ball gown/tuxedo for dinner. located mid-ship and lower level — these tend to move less than cabins in the bow or Myth: Food is bland and always served buf- Truth: Although formal attire was once the stern of the ship. Or better yet, book a river fet-style. cruise norm, most cruise lines now offer a cruise — nothing but smooth sailing! far more relaxed dress code. Some still host Truth: Much like large resorts, cruises do formal nights where guests are encouraged rely on buffets as an efficient way to feed a to wear formal attire, but others encourage large group of people. But long-gone are a more country club casual feel in the the days of bland buffets! Most large ships evenings. The good news is that there is a Established in 1987, Tully Luxury Travel has long- these days offer a variety of restaurants — cruise out there for both types of people standing relationships with the finest travel and tourism some buffet and some a la carte — with and everyone in between! Much like suppliers, and we offer world-class customer service fresh ingredients and many styles of cui- resorts, each cruise ship will have their own through our three divisions: Cruise Professionals, sine. rules and norms, so choose one that fits African Dreams and Private Travel Designers. your ideal. Why Contact a Cruise Professional? Myth: Time is so regimented on cruises. · Exclusive Amenities offered on ALL sailings · VIP access to sites often closed to the general public Truth: No longer do cruise lines dictate that · Condé Nast Traveler “World’s Top Travel Specialist” you have to eat at the same time every since 1999 night at the same table. Cruises now offer freestyle and open dining options, allowing Find out which is the best itinerary for you and receive guests to eat when they want and with exclusive amenities when you book with a Cruise whom they choose. Your schedule is com- Professional by Tully Luxury Travel. Call today at 1-888-351-6772. pletely in your hands — from dining to activities to relaxation. Do as much or as lit- www.tullyluxurytravel.com tle as you choose. American World Traveler Summer 2017

An Ode to Vimy Ridge & Canadian battlefields Article & Photography by Ilona Kauremszky V imy Ridge is one of those haunting places that look beautiful from the outset. Surrounded by fields of green, the mani- cured lawn by the Douai Plain spreads over the rolling hillocks embraced by tall maple trees and at its epicentre stands the Canadian National Vimy Memorial, a jewel in the French countryside. Brief Backgrounder The memorial, an 11 years-in-the-making stone structure, was unveiled in 1936 by King Edward VIII to honour the Canadian fallen soldiers in a battle that has been described by historians as: “the Birth of a Nation.” Four divisions of the Canadian Corps that had never fought together came together here with the purpose to overtake the now infamous ridge. It was Easter. April 9, 1917. There was sleet, snow and muddy mounds mixed with blood and bones. The carnage was obscene, unimaginable. Out of 10,602 casualties, 3,598 Canadians gave their lives. Inscribed on the ramparts of the Vimy Memorial are the names of over 11,000 Canadian soldiers who were posted as “missing, presumed dead” in France. For bravery and heroism, Canada was awarded four Victoria Crosses considered the highest medal for military valour for this blood-spattered battle that occurred over 3 days. They were: Private William Milne, Lance-Sergeant Ellis Sifton, Captain Thain MacDowell and Private John Pattison. The Canadian Battlefields Tour This spring I attended the centennial anniver- sary of the Battle of Vimy Ridge thanks to a special 11-day niche tour offered by Trafalgar Canada titled the Canadian Battlefields Tour. People ask me, “How did you get to see the ceremony?” The premier tour operator made it possible for my group to be there. With 70 years of touring experience under its belt Trafalgar is a pro on logistics handling the group transfers as it fulfilled the advanced booking procedures required by Veterans Affairs Canada. Every attendee was registered and the site was restricted and Celebrating Canada’s 150th

secured, meaning once you were inside the ers: Eisenhower, Montgomery and Ramsay. A Vimy area you cannot leave. must-see of this WWII landmark is the large Belgium 61 wall maps studded in original markings used Our two-night stay in Lille proved to be The #Vimy100 Ceremony in finalizing plans for D-Day’s Operation a good overnight hub in north eastern Overlord. Mr. William Dick, a retired master France. The city is near the France-Belgium I could not be prouder to be a Canadian. at arms from Scotland, summarized the border which made sightseeing possible to Among the 25,000 estimated Canadians in operations brilliantly for our group. view the abundant World War I memorial attendance, half of them were students. The sites in both countries. atmosphere was electric. There was not a Afterwards we drove to the ancient port town cloud in the sky, only plenty of sunshine with of Portsmouth. Located on the edge of By the green fields of Flanders in western summer-like conditions. You heard chatter England, there’s a rich mariner history as Belgium lies the medieval town of Ypres pre-ceremony, silence during the ceremony, ships have departed England, crossing the (Ieper). One of the cities destroyed during and more chatter post-ceremony. English Channel dating back as early as WWI, the ancient town has been beautifully King Henry VIII times. restored and remains a significant stop on In our time-starved world it’s difficult for any Canadian battlefields tour. most to put in time to create personal travel Today, Portsmouth is a popular seaside town packages but this is where Trafalgar Canada for the ferry crossing to France. For stellar During the entire war period (1914-1918) comes in. Travellers can explore places many harbour views and aerial shots head to the Ypres was the scene of some of the most only could imagine in an engaging 3-coun- Emirates Spinnaker Tower. The 107-metre important battles in the First World War, later try-in-1 European programme to England, tower houses an observation level, a glass referred to as the Great War. The Ypres France, and Belgium. floor dubbed, SkyWalk, and the Clouds Café Salient is the area around Ypres in Belgium popular for high tea afternoons. which was the scene of the war’s heaviest The focus of my recent guided vacation was battles. to commemorate some of the key World War France I and II Canadian battlefields of Western The Last Post Ceremony Europe. While the themes sound like heavy Once we reached Caen by ferry we dialed One of the most moving ceremonies I have topics, Trafalgar Canada managed to com- back the clock to World War 2 retracing ever witnessed takes place nightly at the plete the memorable trip featuring a post some of the Canadian battlefields in Menin Gate in Ypres. The landmark is a war celebratory theme of dance, champagne Normandy and visited the significant sombre reminder on the tragedy of this and dining in cities like Rheims and Paris, Canadian landing sites at St Aubin-sur-Mer Great War. Some 55,000 Allied soldiers who which went off with great success. and Bernieres-sur-Mer. fought in the Ypres Salient have never been found. There is no resting place for them. No For this odyssey, Trafalgar has meshed a Along Juno Beach we saw the weathered place to mourn until you reach this gate to land and sea combination which began in coastline of the infamous D-Day Landings. see their names carved in stone. the gateway city of London and smoothly “La Maison des Canadiens," or Canada transitioned to smaller hubs that held their House is regarded by some as one of the It didn’t take long for the crowd to grow by own incredible discoveries. most iconic buildings in Canadian military the Menin Gate. At one point the bulging history. It was one of the first houses liberat- size of six-row deep on either side as school On those travel days as the spacious Wi-Fi ed by Canadian soldiers on D-Day, June 6, children, families, and other groups lined enabled motor coach drove the major thor- 1944 and was one of our stops. Some of us beneath the historic gate in anticipation for oughfares, extra site visits not found on the laid down a symbolic miniature wooden the Last Post Ceremony. itinerary dubbed as “Hidden Treasures” cross given by our tour operator as a added that much more to the experiences. memento on this journey of remembrance. This nightly memorial first began in 1928 as a daily act of remembrance to Ypres’ miss- England As we left Normandy we shifted gears, head- ing Great War soldiers and for those who ing further back in history to explore the made the ultimate sacrifice. Volunteer One day our motor coach turned onto a legacy of World War I. Trafalgar Canada has buglers from the local fire brigade in Ypres roadway laden in a mash-up of modern curated an itinerary to see several significant start the moving ceremony. Traffic screeches boxy buildings and Georgian-style edifices. It monuments which would have been other- to a halt. People bow their heads. Silence was our first hidden treasure: the Southwick wise impossible or difficult for the regular descends. House Park outside Portsmouth, England. traveller to view. One day I calculated seven sites, a feat that I challenge any traveller to We silently give thanks in this commemora- Southwick House has been lauded as the carry out on their own. tive ode to the fallen. Lest we forget. headquarters for the D-Day invasion which was planned by the main Allied command- www.trafalgar.com American World Traveler Summer 2017

62 The Ultimate Treasure Hunt in Ontario’s Southwest Article and photography by Steve Gillick J ames Turland told us about the ultimate Treasure Hunt where “You set your own rules and challenges never end”. He confessed that, “I can’t wait to get up tomorrow. It’s as if every day, someone ‘gas stations’, to rest and fuel up for the next leg of the migratory journey. They move in on mass one day and could be gone the next. And birders by the hundreds, carting everything from huge zoom lenses content to shoot themselves (selfies!) with a tiny dash of Avian colour in the back- ground, while surrounded by a Carolinian forest. shakes the dice, and it’s a whole new to simple point-and-shoot cameras, con- But it’s more serious than that. As James game”. verge on the area to catch a glimpse of a Turland humorously complained, “people rare Prothonotary Warbler or a bright red get hooked going around the world to see Of course James was referring to travel, but Scarlet Tanager or a flashy orange more and more birds” and sure enough, also to the newest cross-generational craze, Baltimore Oriole. the birders with whom we spoke, casually birding. In his role as one of the guides at name-dropped destinations such as Rondeau Provincial Park, located in Bruce Dilabio, our guide at Point Pelee Panama, Costa Rica, Cuba, Antarctica and Morpeth, in Ontario’s Southwest, James National Park noted that for decades, bird- South Africa as places to visit, watch and leads hikes, especially around the migra- ers were seen as geeks, but now ‘bird photograph birds. James suggested that 1) tion seasons in May and August, when watching has become mainstream and dig- Birds are the easiest form of wildlife for common and rare birds, displaying every- ital photography has turned just about anyone to see, and 2) Travelers can com- thing from dull camouflage to magnificent everyone into a photographer”. And this bine birding with almost everything else colourful plumage, choose Rondeau, or means that while some birders photo- they are doing, whether it’s relaxing on the Long Point or Point Pelee as their oases or graphically shoot the birds, others seem beach, hiking a trail or exploring a new Celebrating Canada’s 150th

destination. And this is exactly what we did I’m so sweet” tune of the Yellow Warbler. on our way to participate in the annual And so for the next three hours, in the spir- 63 Birding Festival. it of a Treasure Hunt, we explored different areas of the Park, for a magical time listen- Just west of London, we traveled south of ing and watching the birds. And this really Highway 401 to Highway 3, the historic brought up another attraction of birding, Talbot Trail, and found the Crazy 8 Barn. which is the love of physical exercise and The 8 sided (octagonal) structure was built the connection with nature, shared by many around 1898 for stabling animals. It was birders and travelers alike. abandoned for many years before Susanne Spense dismantled it and with the help of With discovery on our minds we drove east her partner, Manfred Wiehle, rebuilt and to Erieau to check out the Bayside Brewing friendly Scarlet Tanager who posed for us at opened it as a café, complete with home Company where two couples, Nancy the ‘Tip’ of Point Pelee. and garden furniture and curiosities for Cowan and husband Ken, and Frank sale. It’s a great place to stop for lunch and Thompson and his wife Josette, decided to And again, the hundreds of people of all have a chat with Susanne about the area start a brewery as a semi-retirement proj- ages and all physical abilities who were attractions that include Clearville Park and ect. With a waterfront pub and a brewing exploring, admiring, zooming-in, photo- the old Guyitt House, a ramshackle, almost operation that now requires a larger facili- graphing and thrilling at seeing the birds ‘haunted-looking’ house just down the ty, the owners are anything but retired and was inspiring. One woman confessed that road. thoroughly enjoying themselves as restau- this was the 47th year that she and her hus- ranteurs relating to customers, brewers band were attending the Birding Festival. Before settling in for the evening, we visited sharing ideas with other craft brewers in Rondeau Provincial Park. The bird feeder at Southwestern Ontario, and employers giv- On the last day of our journey we drove the Visitor’s Centre is enough to turn any ing students a summer job. For the record, east to the town of Beachville where we met sceptic into a birder, as Red-headed and the two ales and two lagers they make are our hosts from Oxford County: Meredith Red-bellied Woodpeckers, Rose-breasted really good. We tried them all! Maywood, a Tourism Specialist and Phil Grosbeaks, Common Grackles and a few Holst, the Vice-Chair of Stewardship. The opportunistic squirrels and chipmunks It’s a pleasant one hour drive from Erieau purpose of our visit was to experience the came to dine on sunflower seeds, suet and to Kingsville where it’s only fitting to take Thames River Wetlands and see how the oranges. And then a walk on Tulip Tree Trail the Lake Erie North Shore Wine Route, old riverbed was being revitalized into a led us to see Cardinals, Nuthatches, Oven home to 20 wineries include Pelee Island productive natural area for wildlife and for Birds, Goldfinches, Downy Woodpeckers, Winery. The grapes are grown on the Island the community. To that extent, Wood Ducks, and more; a total of 27 different species in which is the southernmost point in Canada Mallards, Canada Geese, Swallows, White- only a few hours. and has a climate similar to grape-growing tail Deer, Muskrats, Garter Snakes, Turtles, regions in Europe. We enjoyed tastings of Song Sparrows, Red-tailed Hawks and Our accommodation was in Ridgetown, a Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Great Blue Herons have re-populated the small community just 18 kilometers north of Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon/Petite wetland. It’s a project in the making with a the Park. We stayed at the Dempster House, Verdot. Our comfortable accommodation focus on educating the next generation a cozy Bed and Breakfast on Main Street, was not too far away, at the Heart and Soul about the importance of wetlands and the and had dinner at Station 11, where friend- Inn, located in a 1906 Victorian home. migratory corridor. ly owner Wayne Yeck steered us toward the amazing Hawaiian Nachos (made with In the late afternoon we drove to Point Pelee The Ultimate Treasure Hunt in Ontario’s wantons), local craft beers and an impres- National Park to enjoy the Twilight Delaurier Southwest is an exciting, challenging sive veggie pizza. Trail Hike (and to catch the dance of the adventure that involves exploration, walk- Woodcocks), and then the next morning, ing through forests, spotting birds, experi- But birders keep birding hours, so we were just after sunrise, we were back at Point encing marshes and wetlands, as well as on the road at 5:30 the next morning to Pelee, on a morning hike of the Woodland discovering areas of the province that tend join James Turland’s bird hike. While some Trail. The park is famous for songbirds so to be a bit off the travel radar screen. Like birders are ‘visual’ and therefore find it dif- we were in Warbler-heaven with Nashville any good Treasure Hunt, the rewards are in ficult to go anywhere without packing their Warblers, Chestnut-sided Warblers, Cape the form of the people you meet along the binoculars, the majority of birders are both May Warblers, Blackburnian Warblers, way, feelings of exhilaration and accom- visual and audio (‘song sleuths’). They lis- Black and White Warblers and the ubiqui- plishment, and golden memories. ten for the “peter, peter, peter’ call of the tous Yellow Warbler. This, aside from Wild Tufted Titmouse, or the “sweet, sweet, sweet Turkeys, Ruby-crowned Kinglets and a very American World Traveler Summer 2017

64 S w e e t D r e a m s A r o u n d T h e Wo r l d Luxury Hotels...Grand Resorts...Charming B&B...Opulent Villas...Quaint C Traditional Bhutanese Bath House Opens at Gangtey Lodge Spa El Nido Cove Resort and Spa Gangtey Lodge invites guests on a journey Palawan Island, Philippines into an ancient Bhutanese ritual in their new hot stone bath house. The signature by Daniel Smajovits treatment in this one of a kind setting com- bines ancient Bhutanese medicinal prac- From the craziness of Manila to the serenity of Palawan Island, the Philippines tices with unobstructed views of the magnif- is the hidden jewel of Southeast Asia. With over 7,500 islands, it is said that the icent Gangtey Valley in a specially pre- country offers a perfect beach for everyone, but the country is so much more pared Bhutanese Dotsho, or hot stone than white sand and crystal clear waters. World-class diving and snorkeling, bath. The Kingdom of Bhutan is historically millennia old man-made and natural wonders and a rich, albeit convoluted, known as Lhojong Menjong, The Southern history make this a premiere travel destination. Valley of Medicinal Herbs and the hot stone bath is a trusted ritual. The bath itself is Tucked away on Palawan Island is the tiny village of El Nido, which consistent- constructed using local pinewood, river ly ranked as one of the world’s best beach destinations. When looking to relax stones are collected and heated until red for a few days, look no further than the El Nido Cove Resort and Spa. The prop- hot, fresh cold spring water is used to fill erty rests on the tip of El Nido Bay and far enough north of the town to truly the bath and then finished with beautifully provide an escape and serenity from day-to-day life. scattered Artemisia leaves. Depending on your budget, you can choose between a Garden, Forest or Gangtey Lodge offers guests a unique and Beachfront room, each of which is very spacious, modern and clean. With only exciting insight into the beautiful Gangtey 20 rooms in total, the property sells out quickly during peak season, which runs P l a y Valley of Bhutan. Nestled high in the east- from December to February. ern Himalayas, Bhutan still maintains its incredible natural beauty and traditional As they have only a limited number of guests, the staff is in-tune to your every ways of life. The lodge, with its spectacular need. Whether it’s booking one of El Nido’s famous island hopping tours, setting and sweeping views over the whole priced the same regardless of the operator, or a special dietary request, they valley, acts as a luxurious base for a series are ready and willing to make your stay a memorable one. of adventures and excursions. Drawing inspiration from the unique and beautiful Yet, the property’s greatest amenity is the natural beauty that surrounds it and Bhutanese rural architecture down to the & guests can enjoy it either by the beach, the outdoor pool or for the adventur- very last detail, Gangtey Lodge boasts 12 ous, a kayaking trip to explore a nearby island or lagoon. If relaxation is beautifully appointed guestrooms, each squarely on your mind, one can opt for a massage by the beach or indoors, with their own fireplace and spacious pri- S t a y depending on the weather. vate bathroom, designed to reflect the rich cultural heritage using warm fabrics and With a full service restaurant, open throughout the day and into the evening, earthen tones. Gangtey Lodge continues the hotel offers complimentary breakfast and a moderately priced menu so their dedication to tradition with the open- guests can skip the 20-minute tricycle ride into town. As El Nido is still a fish- ing of the property’s new Bhutanese bath- ing village today, visitors should at least make the trip in for one dinner, where house, a new addition to the spa, begin- beachfront restaurants offer a wide selection of local fish and seafood, grilled ning with a foot scrub and complimented to your liking, for under $10 a person. by a traditional massage. www.elnidocoveresort.com www.gangteylodge.com New York London Paris Tokyo Hong Kong Bali Rome Thailand Monaco Amsterdam Berlin Ibiza Montreal Tanzania Hawaii Rio Ma Buenas Aries Manila Singapore Mumbai Chicago Jerusalem Moscow Egypt Bora Bora China Japan Santorini Osaka Los Angeles Banff Guangzhou Casablanca Cairo Iceland Orlando Beverly Hills Melbourne Mallorca San Diego Crete New York London Paris T

Country Inns...Luxary Safari Camps...Ecolodges...Ice...Cave...Treetop... Hotels 65 and well-lit, the rooms are tastefully decorat- ed, and the service throughout the hotel is friendly and helpful. The pool, sauna, spa and fitness centre only add to the sense of ‘restful escape’. Some of the rooms and suites on the upper floors overlook Union Station and the now iconic Canadian Museum for Human Rights. Now, knowing that Room 202 has been one of the rooms in which ghosts have been reported, I requested, and was assigned that room. I checked it thoroughly when I entered, cringing when the closet door creaked ominously when I opened it, but all that was inside was an empty bathrobe. And then it happened. I was alone (or so I thought) around 10:30 that evening when I heard someone (or something) attempt to open the locked door connecting my room to the next. The door knob started to turn this way and that, and then a force started push- ing on the door. I dispassionately got up, banged on the door, and all the activity stopped. It was either the people next door Haunting Memories of Winnipeg’s Fort Garry Hotel who thought that my door was one of their closets, or it was one of the hotel ghosts try- Article & Photography by Steve Gillick ing to contact me! T The real ghost is said to be a woman who he Fort Garry Hotel is a pretty minute the name was changed to the Fort committed suicide following the death of her impressive property in the heart of Garry Hotel, after Upper Fort Garry which husband outside the hotel (he was hit by a downtown Winnipeg. It has was located near the confluence of the Red horse-drawn cart). But other reports are of a amenities that appeal to travelers of all gen- and Assiniboine Rivers in the area known woman dressed in white who can be traced erations, as well as an old world charm today as The Forks. The gate of the Fort can to Lady McMillan, one of the attendees at the be found just east of the hotel’s Broadway grand opening in 1913. And still other harkening back to its roots in 1913 when it Avenue main entrance. reports relate to a ‘presence’ climbing into opened as a Grand Trunk Pacific Railway beds, eating in the kitchen, and lighting can- hotel. But it was also in that year, specifically The hotel is visually charming inside and out. dles in the ballroom. on December 10 during the hotel’s grand It was built in what has been called the opening, when the legacy of ghosts seems to Haunting memories are simply those we “Chateau” style, with features that recall New have manifested itself. remember vividly. My stay at the Fort Garry York’s Plaza Hotel (built in 1906-07) as well as Ottawa’s Chateau Laurier Hotel, another provided me with some very pleasant The hotel’s original name was to be the thoughts, and certainly I will stay there Grand Trunk Hotel, built from 1909 to 1912 Selkirk Hotel, in deference to the Selkirk again. Perhaps then, when the ghosts feel to provide luxury accommodation to train Settlers; Scottish immigrants who came to more comfortable with my presence, we can travellers. colonize the Red River area in 1812 and connect. 1813 under a project set up by Thomas Check-in takes place in the comfortably, Douglas, the 5th Earl of Selkirk. At the last chandeliered lobby. The hallways are broad www.fortgarryhotel.com adrid Cape Town Beijing Sydney Vancouver Ecuador Malaysia Crete Stockholm Maldives Peru Miami Shanghai Tahiti Riviera Maya Las Vegas T Barcelona Santiago Washington Jakarta Marrakesh Boston Botswana Copenhagen New Delhi Dubai Sao Paulo Bangkok Auckland Boracay U Tokyo Hong Kong Bali Rome Thailand Monaco Amsterdam Berlin Ibiza Montreal Tanzania Hawaii Rio Madrid Cape Town Beijing Sydney Van

Advertorial Golf With 45 holes of championship golf, Puntacana Resort & Club is the Caribbean’s premier golf & beach desti- nation. The P.B. Dye designed La Cana Golf Course, consisting of 27 holes across Tortuga, Arrecife and Hacienda, was declared the number one course in the Caribbean by Golf Magazine. Designed by Tom Fazio and set between rocky cliffs, Accommodations coral reefs and the expansive Caribbean Corporate Social Responsibility Sea, the Corales Golf Course features six Puntacana Resort & Club is the oceanfront holes, multiple lines of We believe that in development there Caribbean’s leading resort community on approach and picturesque canyons, mak- needs to be equilibrium among the eco- the eastern shore of the Dominican ing for an exhilarating experience. nomic, environmental and social compo- Republic. Tortuga Bay is member of the nents. Our non-profit Grupo Puntacana Leading Hotels of the World and the only Activities & Spa Foundation serves both natural and social AAA Five Diamond awarded hotel in the resources, while contributing to the sus- Dominican Republic, offering understated Puntacana Resort & Club offers a wide tainable development of our Dominican elegance, privacy and unparalleled per- range of adventures for guests of all ages Republic. These practices have been guid- sonal service. Located at Playa Blanca is including golf, tennis, kite boarding, scuba ing principles of our company, and along The Westin Puntacana Resort & Club, diving, horseback riding, fishing and with vision, hard work and perseverance, guest enjoys all of Westin’s signature numerous excursions by sea, land and air. the key to our success. amenities and Don Queco Cigar Bar. Our The leading spa in the Caribbean, Six Four Points by Sheraton is situated at Senses Spa at Puntacana Resort & Club Punta Cana International airport Puntacana Village, few minutes away from presents a range of innovative packages, Punta Cana International Airport (PUJ). Signature treatments and Asian therapies. Punta Cana International Airport (PUJ), Visit Galerías Puntacana to enjoy an built, owned and operated by Grupo The Estates assortment of shops, restaurants, play- Puntacana, the resort’s developers, and ground, and our spirited nightlife. located within Puntacana Resort & Club, is Become a part of our magnificent para- just minutes away from check-in at any of dise community with the purchase of a Dining our hotels or private homes. Punta Cana vacation home in the elite The Estates at International Airport (PUJ) has direct serv- Puntacana Resort & Club, where Julio Puntacana Resort & Club is home to 6 ice from 98 different cities around the Iglesias, Mikhail Baryshnikov call home. world class eateries with an indigenously world, making Punta Cana the most An exclusive lifestyle of relaxation, excite- delectable cuisine. Tucked inside Tortuga accessible destination in the Caribbean. ment and understated elegance, prospec- Bay, the AAA Four Diamond awarded Our VIP terminals service the needs of tive buyers can choose among elegant Bamboo blends modern cuisine with guests flying in private aircrafts. homes perched above the Caribbean Sea Mediterranean influences. Specializing in or overlooking scrupulously manicured local seafood, The AAA Three Diamond golf courses in Corales, Tortuga, Arrecife, Award La Yola is located at the Marina. At The Caribbean’s Premiere Golf Hacienda, Hacienda del Mar and Marina. La Cana Golf & Beach Club is The Grill, & Beach Resort Community Home and apartments are also available an American style grill offering views of at Puntacana Village. the sea. The Westin Puntacana Resort & www.puntacana.com Club provides a variety or restaurants and bars from Ananí to Brassa Grill. Next door is Playa Blanca, a beachfront tropical restaurant. Our Dine Around Program offers the best sampling of our finest culi- nary experience. All restaurants offer com- plimentary shuttle service within the resort. More dining options are available at Puntacana Village.

68 Collector Luxury Inn New Quirky Cool in Key West & NYAH – Not Your Average Hotel by Susan Campbell N YA H o t e l E nsconced in the heart of space, but with no additional cost! And you The NYAH concept is part of the new Old Town Key West amid need not do the building yourself. Simply WeHotel group, which caters to groups that the magnolias trees, the request the number of guest beds you need like to arrange things their way. This hotel is whitewashed cottage style homes and they do the transformation for you a superb bargain for family reunions, girl’s and lush greenery is a brand new before you get there. Everything is designed and guy’s getaways, friend get-togethers accommodation concept ideal for almost Ikea style with moving parts and and special occasion stays like bachelorette groups who like to travel together. puzzle piece elements, and everything parties. It’s called NYAH- Not Your moves seamlessly into the configuration Average Hotel, and the name cer- customized to what you need. But though Must do things in Key West nearby include tainly fits! It’s impossible to com- when accommodating up to six people the a visit to Kermit's Key West Key Lime Shoppe P l a y pare it to anything else because room can appear almost “barracks” style, for over 500 key lime products and all day it’s a first of its kind. Think upscale the beds are anything but Spartan in com- breakfast, a trip on Danger Charters sail- hostel meets charming B&B with a fort- they are all super comfy memory foam boat for a wine and tapas tasting during side of quirky boutique escape. mattresses topped with quality linens. sunset, and dinner at Mangoes for fine fruit Then add the transformer ele- inspired fare. Also a short walk to the his- ment. Flat panel TVs, complimentary Wi-Fi, mini- toric harbour is worth taking for dinner at fridges and individual lockers add to the Turtle Kraals. And a great way to get to Each of the 36 guestrooms boast appeal, and complimentary continental know the little island town is by the sight- a BYOR® - Build-Your-Own-Room breakfast on their cheery deck starts your seeing trolley train to determine where you & option which means it can be a day off right and complimentary Starbucks might like to return to in order to explore spacious room for two or a com- coffee 24/7 is also a welcome perk.A daily further like the Hemingway Museum. munal room for six in the same happy hour with free snacks and very rea- S t a y sonable drink prices also add to the bar- www.nyahotels.com gain and gives guests a chance to socialize with each other. The property itself is lovely- all lush gardens and towering trees surrounding the multi- level configuration of buildings overlook- ing three pools and two hot tubs. And its location is ideal for exploring all of Key West’s coolest attractions easily on foot. They also offer coaster bikes to guests.

69 New Sophistication in St. Augustine The Collector Luxury Inn & Gardens by Susan Campbell t. Augustine, America’s oldest city, is As soon as you enter the ancient stone grounds are dotted with historical markers, S awash in historic sites, epic ancient architecture and inviting attractions, but what it was lacking was a luxury bou- gates and see the old amphitheater and the lush secret gardens full of stone cherubs, fountains and lovely sculptures, you can tell this is one very special spot. Of course, they but ask the staff about the interesting back stories of the buildings and the sometimes famous folk who had been there before. Like Napoleon’s nephew Prince Achille tique stay right in the heart of it all. Not anymore. have added luxe amenities to bring the stay Murat who resided in the original structure into the 21st century such as the inviting that dates back to 1790! Greta Garbo, The Collector Luxury Inn & Gardens is an pool in the middle of the courtyard that Mark Twain and Sinclair Lewis have all vis- incredible gem now located in the charm- beckons those seeking to refresh in the ited there, too! In fact, it’s almost impossi- ing old historic quarter of the city. And it humid Florida heat. And a tranquil pond ble not to hear the echoes of history all has its own fascinating history as well. and waterfall has also been added to around you when strolling the grounds, Once the home of eccentric collector soothe work weary spirits. Then there’s a and whispers of scandals, tall tales, and Kenneth Worcester Dow who “collected” all cozy courtyard café that crests The Well visiting spirits seem to continually wisp nine buildings there to house himself along Bar- a trendy enclave where master mixol- through the leaves of the ancient trees in with his unique treasures he found all over ogists mix up craft cocktails using local the evenings as well. the globe, he generously left it all to the city spirits, and an interesting tapas menu sates when he passed on. At first it was operating guests before they head out to dinner in The Collector Inn is truly a rare find and a as a museum, but now it has been thor- town. Breakfast in a cheery indoor dining welcome addition the fascinating oughly restored and reopened as an avant spot is also included, and a common area St. Augustine scene. garde oasis hotel. And the owners have campfire attracts those seeking to chat taken great pains to ensure as much of the under the stars after a day out. There are www.thecollectorinn.com original architecture has remained intact. also coaster bikes for rent to explore St. Augustine’s plethora of attractions. It is an ideal base for this fascinating destination. The 30 rooms are located within stand- alone and attached cottage style abodes- each unique in it their make-up and design, and all bursting with museum qual- ity art and antiques. The accommodations range from sumptuous suites with separate living areas, sofa sleepers, kitchenettes and breezy verandas to cozy studio style enclaves. Some also have fireplaces. The American World Traveler Summer 2017

I It all started with a big bang. More than But I have to admit there were times it was 300 million years ago, an asteroid difficult to leave the hotels. Truly hard. crashed into the Charlevoix region, Why? Because both properties we stayed at forming its remarkable landscape that is – Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu and Le now a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. Germain Hotel Charlevoix —were destina- Today the crater walls are tree-covered tions themselves. Farm-to-table cuisine, mountains that create a natural wonder- pampering spas, local history, gorgeous land, especially when it’s combine with the views, welcoming décor and a host of other gorgeous sight of the mighty St. Lawrence amenities and services made for unforget- River. Located approximately 90 minutes table stays. northeast of Quebec City, there’s plenty to explore. During a fun-packed long week- Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu end we discovered the Isle-aux-Coudres, a small island that’s big on character. We Aptly referred to as the Castle on the Cliff, strolled through the village of Baie St. Paul this historic property sits idyllically between with its numerous art galleries and bou- the Laurentian Mountains and the St. tiques, and even boarded a helicopter for a Lawrence River near the town of La memorable birds-eye-view of Charlevoix’s Malbaie. The grand hotel was established out-of-this-world landscape. during the ‘white boat era’ at the turn of the century, when well-to-do tourists would travel down the river from the cities and stay for the season. Elvis Presley, Angelina Jolie, Charlie Chaplin and former US pres- ident William Howard Taft are among its celebrity guest alumni. You may think this sounds a tad pretentious, but Le Manoir is anything but. We felt welcomed from the moment we arrived from the bright fire in the foyer to the view of the St. Lawrence in our rooms. Everywhere we turned there was some Fairmont Manoir Richelieu curiosity to admire whether it was the his-

71 Stay & Play at these two Exceptional Hotels in Charlevoix, Quebec by Jennifer Merrick Fairmont Manoir Richelieu toric paintings and photographs, antique Le Germain Hotel Charlevoix outdoor pools, offering much-needed relief furniture or wooden sporting equipment from our outdoor activities. used at the beginning of the century. Built by Daniel Gaulthier, a founder of Cirque du Soleil, this property, situated on But mostly, we loved the rooms themselves. Be sure to savour a meal at the Table et a former farm, manages to combine a styl- Our loft-styled accommodation in the Le Terroir restaurant, which prides itself on ish and contemporary design with an Clos building had high ceilings, exposed their fresh and locally sourced menu and is atmosphere of warmth that peacefully wood, a large inviting bath tub and a part of La route des saveurs de Charlevoix. complements its rural surrounding. chaise lounge tucked beside the window. A It was an exceptional meal with highlights Attention to detail is evident from the exqui- perfect reading spot even if I did get dis- that included lamb ragout, Charlevoix’s site meals at Les Labours and fresh bread tracted by the horses in the field outside the famous cheeses and a veritable smorgas- at La Patesserie to the pillow cases made by window. bord of mouth-watering desserts. nuns from a local convent. It’s minutes away from the center of Baie St. Paul and Perhaps you can now understand why it Spa, casino, indoor and outdoor pools, one of the stations of Train de Charlevoix was difficult to leave these hotels even if the bicycle rentals and even horse-drawn car- that departs from Quebec City. beauty of Charlevoix beckoned. riages are some of the activities on offer. The hotel is particularly known for its golf A highlight of our stay was the Spa du www.legermainhotels.com/fr/charlevoix courses, perched dramatically on the edge Verger, a classic Quebec Nordic spa. Our of the cliff overlooking the river. circuit began with the eucalyptus steam www.tourisme-charlevoix.com/en room and took us through the hot and cold www.fairmont.com/richelieu-charlevoix Le Germain Hotel Le Germain Hotel Le Germain Hotel American World Traveler Summer 2017

74 Tr e a t s i n N e w Yo r k ! by David J. Cox E ntering New York City is always a Viva Mexico at MEXICUE DOS CAMINOS pleasure, whether for the first time or the 50th, the skyline, sounds and Mexicue started as the brainchild of David Deep in the heart of Times Square lies Dos scents overwhelm the senses! Schillace and Thomas Kelly, who took two Caminos, another fantastic restaurant that of America’s favorite comfort foods, exceeded all my expectations. We were Food, Food, Food! Mexican & BBQ, and blended them into a greeted by the manager and led down- Food Truck mega-success. stairs, past the impressive and cozy tequila There are thousands of restaurants of all bar into the wonderful, villa-inspired sizes, flavours, tastes and cultures, and our Fast forward a couple of years, and we are restaurant where the full house was being visit offered samplings from eight of the all enjoying amazing guacamole, I eat the served plates filled with colors and scents city’s tastiest and trendiest best! best black-bean burrito I have ever had, my that got my stomach growling. We started wife enjoys blackened fish tacos, and the with a big tub of Butternut, pomegranate Our first taste of New York? Well, it made house Poblano Mac’nCheese is deemed and chipotle guacamole, accompanied by me want to move to New York just to be delicious by both kids. I also get to taste an ever-full basket of nachos and 3 salsas. able to visit these two next flavourful fiesta some of the over 50 varieties of Tequila Offering tacos of all sorts, house specialties favorites! available all in the comfort of their beauti- and Street food, the choices were endless. ful 5th avenue restaurant! The `mouthwa- We settled on Chorizo Fundito with tering union` of the blended flavors leave Mexican cheeses, dark beer, spicy chorizo an impression, and the Chef came to meet and warm corn tortillas; Dos Enchiladas, a with us to be sure everything was tasty. house specialty with roasted chicken, queso Dos Caminos BILLS BAR AND BURGER John’s Pizzeria Times Square

bacon cheeseburger and the other and graham crackers. If you want a 75 devoured a Swiss cheese, mushroom and la carte, you can mix any combina- bacon monster! tion of 5 ingredients (or unlimited choices for an extra couple of bucks), We added some bowls of their delicious including cereals (18 available) and extras roasted tomato soup and butternut squash that include fruits, nuts, sauces, marshmal- soups as appetizers. You must be sure to try lows, green tea powder and over 30 other their milkshakes, they are perfect – my goodies! favourite was the Chocolate Mint! To add some spice, the café also offers their JOHN’S PIZZERIA TIMES SQUARE creations as Milkshakes, Sundaes and Parfaits! Another place that offered distinct American flavor was John’s Pizzeria Times This was the best family experience...well, Square. This vast, bustling eatery is noisy there was also the doughnuts... and filled with people enjoying the amaz- ing array of toppings on the perfectly THE DOUGHNUT PLANT baked pizzas! As George Takei would say, “oh Myyyyy!” Gaze at the huge map of New York as you With a modern décor and a hipster are offered starters, including two of my ambiance, I was not sure how the kids favourites – John`s Garlic Rolls and their would be welcomed, but the staff was delicious Bruschetta! But the highlight is incredible to them, answering questions `building your own pizza` where you can and letting them taste test a collection of choose from over 30 ingredients, from sta- the most colorful and deliriously delicious ples like pepperoni, to gourmet items like doughnuts I have ever tasted! I am not usu- Broccoli rabbe. Your masterpiece is then ally one for doughnuts, but they served me placed in their coal-fired brick ovens. We one that was gluten-free and banana shared two pizzas, the vegetarian and a pie glazed and it melted in my mouth...mercy! chosen by my son. His list of ingredients A must visit when in NYC!! was impressive, and the pizza master obliged with a flavourful, colorful pie. With MOONCAKE RESTAURANT choices for all tastes, including a bacon menonita, mole poblano & tres chiles and vodka-sauced pie, it is easy to see why Modest décor, magnificent meals! sauce, as well as some classic Asada Tacos this great pizzeria has been voted as one of with steak, caramelized onions, queso coti- New York's best pizzas! We arrived at this little hotspot at lunchtime ja and guacamole. I cannot recommend it and were hustled in, sitting at our chair and enough for family or a date night! KELLOGG’S drinking in the ambiance and odors. The great menu has many delicious, unique BILLS BAR AND BURGER Now I am what one would call a Cereal options like asian heros and a delicious Connoisseur…and in New York, I found seared tuna salad. OH YEAH! Some old-fashioned, super- paradise. Kellogg’s has opened a unique sloppy, mouth-watering burgers at the little boutique restaurant right in the heart It's also really economical, and the service Rockefeller Centre Bills Bar & Burger joint! of Times Square. This bright and airy café is swift, no-frills, and very friendly. The kids Here you can order the burger of your offers a unique build-your-own-breakfast really enjoyed a miso-glazed salmon plat- dreams from the classic Bill’s Burger, with option from a selection of Kellogg’s prod- ter, with delicious sauce on the brown rice. “LPT” (lettuce, pickle, tomato) cheese and ucts. Offered a whiteboard pen and a The best part was the crispy portion of the the house special sauce, to the Kimchi product sheet, visitors check off a premade fish. A scrumptious Shanghai home-style Bomb Burger with its crispy shallots, spicy combo, like the Corny Blues (my son chose spare rib dish were absolutely mouth Kimchi relish, shredded cabbage and chile this) with Corn Pops, blueberry jam, lemon watering, as were the crawfish dumplings – aioli; 2 of a dozen or more menu burgers, zest and a pinch of salt, or my daughter’s some of the best I have ever eaten! or better yet, build your own with over 20 pick, S’mores – containing Frosted Flakes, custom ingredients! One kid decided on a dark chocolate chips, mini marshmellows So many restaurants so little time!! KELLOGG’S The Doughnut Plant Mooncake restaurant American World Traveler Summer 2017

76 A Conversation with Fredericksburg,Texas Article and photography by Steve Gillick

and habanero, he suggested that the icy hen you’re a foodie who 77 W loves to try new beers and you see Ugly Pug Schwarzbier on the menu, you’re intrigued, to say the least. And this is treat tasted even better when dipped in Prosecco. He was right! And our blissful indulgence in food contin- ued with the breakfast tacos and muffins exactly how I started my visit to at Twisted Sisters, the tender, fresh Fredericksburg, a city of 11,000 in Texas mesquite-smoked ribs and brisket at the Hill Country, about 70 minutes north of Backdoors BBQ, and the “Fredericks San Antonio or 90 minutes west of Austin. Burger” at Burger Burger (made with Beef, bratwurst and sauerkraut) and paired with I sampled the delicious dark lager at Lobo Negro, a Bavarian style black lager. Otto’s, an ultra-popular restaurant, Lee Hereford, the President and CEO of On Main Street and many of the side described by owner Evelyn Washburne as Perdinales Brewing Company referred to streets in Fredericksburg history comes “European bistro, fine dining” but she was this beer as “my favourite child” and alive in the architecture that ranges from quick to add that “we don’t take ourselves advised that “when you get to the bottom log cabins to balconied limestone too seriously”. And in this relaxed, friend- of the glass and decide that it tastes like dwellings, to quaint Sunday houses. ly atmosphere, Paco, the sommelier, pairs another one”, then you know you have a German and Austrian wines (and also product that resonates with the public. History comes alive at the LBJ State Park beer) with the house specialties that where you can see President Lyndon include a rich and creamy Flammkuchen Not too far away at The Treaty House, the Johnson’s “LBJ” cattle-brand on the horns (flatbread with crème fraiche and gor- super-popular bar and cocktail lounge, of his steers, tour the Western White gonzola), the unbelievably tasty Gravlax connects with Fredericksburg locals and House where he and Lady Bird spent 490 (beet and gin cured salmon with capers tourists alike. Owner John Muraglia told days during the Presidency, and see the and horseradish), the delicious Wurst us that when his father was imprisoned in recreation of his birthplace, only a few Platte, (house-made sausage, served with Leavenworth Penitentiary in 1933 for vio- hundred feet away from the family ceme- kartoffelnsalat and sauerkraut), and the lating Prohibition, he was also stripped of tery. With his wry sense of humour, incredible Duck Schnitzel (with spätzle, his U.S. Citizenship. It took years to have Johnson was fond of telling his guests that rotkohl, huckleberry demi-glace and duck it re-instated and finally a Pardon, signed when he died, they could say that he did- cracklin’s). Evelyn tells the story of the man by President Harry Truman made it official. n’t get very far in life. in Louisiana who heard about the Duck The drink, ‘Truman’s Pardon’, a classic Schnitzel and flew his private plane from Martini made with fresh, red grapefruit And history comes alive on Main Street Shreveport to Fredericksburg (about 400 juice, is served in the Independence Bar with the statue of Admiral Chester W. miles). When he was told that the dish where the actual document is framed on Nimitz, a Fredericksburg native, under was not being featured on the menu that the wall. whose command the Pacific War ended. day, he turned around and flew home. I The National Museum of the Pacific War had the Duck Schnitzel and I believe the But in line with his love of family, fun, liv- not only details the campaigns of the war story! ing in Texas and pride in the U.S. Military, but also tells the personal stories of the John Muraglia went one step further. He men and woman who fought. One gallery During our class at the Fischer & Wiser commissioned three historical murals to is devoted to the Sullivan Brothers. When Culinary Adventure Cooking School, Chef be created for the large, comfortable, their mom heard rumours that all five of John deMers spoke about food as “a win- contemporary-designed Treaty House: 1) her sons had been killed, she wrote to the dow into culture…the story of people’s The Battle of San Jacinto, fought in 1836, Bureau of Naval Personnel for clarifica- lives” and even though many restaurants that resulted in the creation of the tion. In the Museum, there is a recording in Fredericksburg harken back to the city’s Republic of Texas; 2) the Treaty with the made by Mrs. Sullivan’s grand-daughter German origins in the 1840’s, the much- Comanches in 1847 that allowed the new in which she reads this letter, and chokes acclaimed culinary scene melds Texan German immigrants to settle on the land up with tears half-way through the record- tastes with Global flavours, and adds in a that would eventually include the town of ing. It’s a very touching encounter for the pinch of “fun”. When Chef Judson Woods Fredericksburg; and 3) the Unconditional museum visitor. Ultimately President at Tubby’s Icehouse offered Grapefruit Surrender, signed by Japan in 1945, that Roosevelt broke the terrible news to Mrs. Paletas (similar to a popsicle) to cool down ended the war of the Pacific. Sullivan in a personal letter. This incident our palates after we tasted the spicy inspired the movie ‘Saving Private Ryan’. Yucatan Chicken Tacos made with achiote see following page American World Traveler Summer 2017

always sold out on the weekend before 78 But Fredericksburg inspiration also and after Valentine’s Day. includes all that is colorful, artistic, happy and interactive. There are 42 wineries along Highway 290 which passes through While there are several standard what has been called the second most vis- hotels/motels in the city, many visitors opt ited wine region in the United States, next for a guest house that offers more of a to Sonoma, California. Wines include ‘living like a local’ experience. I stayed in Viognier, Roussane, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot ‘The Barn’, a converted 1880’s building, 5 Grigio, Petite Syrah, Albarino and more. miles out of town at the Palo Alto Creek Farm. The design might be described as And according to John Thomas, the owner super-comfy cowboy with western decora- of Wildseed Farms, Texas Hill Country in tions throughout, and some of the most and around Fredericksburg, is the largest interesting neighbors you can imagine! flower show on earth. A drive along On my first day I met the Texas Highway 290 reveals a kaleidoscopic blast Longhorns, Loretta, Emmy Lou, and of color that includes Texas Bluebonnet “Clearout”, the Bull. The donkeys, Dollie, and Paintbrush, Indian Blanket, Purple Patsy, Faith and George, loved to have Wine Cup, acres of red and blue Poppies, their ears scratched, and multi-tuned and tons of photographic opportunities. Mockingbirds, whistling Grackles, and curious Turkey Vultures, Hummingbirds Special interest activities in the area might and Woodpeckers frequented the area. include Cowboys! You can stop at Texas Jack Wild West Outfitter, then drive 18 Fredericksburg is a unique destination with miles to Luchenbach, one of the meccas a tempting culinary scene, impressive his- of country western music, where you can torical attractions, outdoor adventures with line-dance while quaffing a bottle of colourful landscapes, and the opportunity Shiner Bock Beer (Nothing’s Finer than a to relax and have a conversation with the Shiner!). Or you can visit one of the 20 locals. It’s a warm, welcoming, friendly art galleries in the city, or for the adven- place to include on your next visit to Texas. turous you can rent a bicycle for the day and then climb Enchanted Rock for the www.visitfredericksburgtx.com view. Just a word of note: the city is American World Traveler Summer 2017